Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Real nice work. If the glass packs are made by Allied i can tell you they sound nice and deep, had them on my DD for 7 years.

Thx, Mike. Mufflers are made by Jones Exhaust and, while I'm not positive, I don't think they have glass fibers in them. Built with two chambers and offset perforated tubes. Reviews said they have a nice tone without the BRAAAPP POP POP POW BANG you get with some of the glasspacks.

[swamp rat]

Another i have not heard of before, i think a dual perforation tubes would last longer than glass packing. The Allied i had which looked like aluminum glass packs gave no "BRAAAPP POP POP POW BANG" just nice and deep tone. I never asked if they were glass packs or not, the owner of Stan's Headers in Auburn just showed them to me and took me for a drive in his truck.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Another i have not heard of before, i think a dual perforation tubes would last longer than glass packing. The Allied i had which looked like aluminum glass packs gave no "BRAAAPP POP POP POW BANG" just nice and deep tone. I never asked if they were glass packs or not, the owner of Stan's Headers in Auburn just showed them to me and took me for a drive in his truck.

I've read that the newer designs have a much better sound than the old tech Cherry Bombs and the like. Nothing beats being able to listen to someone else's ride before making a decision. I helped a buddy restore an old Corvette many years ago when Flowmasters were first on the market. We dropped a RHS crate motor in it and hooked it up to a pair of FM's. Loudest dang car I ever rode in. No way to hold a conversation if it was running.

[jlsanborn]

Great looking work Vic! Soldering splices vs. crimping butt splices is the way to go too.

The leak thing is odd, well that it's both fronts. So, the reservoir holds it's pressure or is it leaking down too? Try pulling the exhaust silencer(s) out of the manifold and plugging the exhaust port(s). If that stops it from bleeding off, then it's a valve manifold problem. If it still goes down it's in the plumbing to or the bag itself.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Great looking work Vic! Soldering splices vs. crimping butt splices is the way to go too.
The leak thing is odd, well that it's both fronts. So, the reservoir holds it's pressure or is it leaking down too? Try pulling the exhaust silencer(s) out of the manifold and plugging the exhaust port(s). If that stops it from bleeding off, then it's a valve manifold problem. If it still goes down it's in the plumbing to or the bag itself.

Thanks, John. Talked to AccuAir tech support today and they said the poppets on the solenoids require back pressure to remain closed. So when the pressure bled off the tank due to a leak, the front bags went down. The reason the rear bags were staying up was because the pressure in them wasn't great enough to overcome the poppet. He said if I'd waited long enough, they would have probably bled down also. Good news is that if one bag fails, the other three will stay up as long as there's some air in the tank. So now I can move on to bigger and better things.

[Vic1947]

Some minor remodeling, an unscheduled trip to Sedalia to attend an impromptu birthday party (and pick up powder coated parts), as well as taking time to overhaul a backed up dishwasher has set me back on CRLS. Still working on the exhaust but only have two seams left to weld up. Discovered that the band clamps I used up front won't prevent twisting where the pipes meet, so I took the easy route and drilled thru the clamp and the pipes and put a couple of stainless rivets in to lock the entire assembly. If it doesn't hold, I'll tack weld it, but I think it should be good.

Welded out the mandrel bends, straight tubes, resonators, bullet turbos and turn downs then painted with high heat silver. I'd prefer everything to sit higher in the chassis, but had to compromise with the air spring setup. There's plenty of other parts that will hit before the exhaust pipes get knocked off. If I set the ride height low enough, you won't see any of it anyway.

[Xeen]

The exhaust looks great Vic.

[jlsanborn]

Super job - looks great!

[Low Elco]

Looks great!

[swamp rat]

A resonation report, or lack there of, would be greatly appriceative. Nice work Vic!

[jeh]

Superb work Vic, exhaust looks great....

[Bennett68C10]

Nice job on the exhaust, what did you use for the silver exhaust paint. I used por-15 high heat silver on mine and it worked out nicely.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Nice job on the exhaust, what did you use for the silver exhaust paint. I used por-15 high heat silver on mine and it worked out nicely.

Thanks, everyone. I just used high heat (1200 deg.) engine paint out of a rattle can. I have several brands... Duplicolor, Rustoleum and Krylon. Most of the tubing and the resonators are stainless, so the only reason to paint them is to match the other parts. I figure nothing short of a ceramic coating will last very long, but it will look okay for a while.

[Vic1947]

In-laws Rick and Linda have been here the last couple of days but left this morning to continue their trip. Rick and I spent a substantial amount of time researching a fix for the 240V Voltec charger for Kathy's electric car that's been on the fritz. Also, while he was here I gave him an AccuAir demo, and wouldn't you know it, one of the relays picked that moment to weld the contacts closed. The compressor it controlled just kept chugging away till we pulled the power. Kinda worrisome since it could happen again. I'm guessing that repeatedly connecting and disconnecting the main power caused enough spikes to fry the contacts. Regardless, it points up a real need for a pop-off valve on the tank. It may also be beneficial to wire a condenser (capacitor) to one side of the points. However, I think using genuine Bosch relays (not the made in China clones) would probably be sufficient.

Side project for today was to start whittling out some spark plug wire looms. As usual, I can't find exactly what I'm looking for so I'm building them. In progress photo is attached.

[jlsanborn]

Those are going to be cool pieces Vic!

Surprised the compressors don't have built in reliefs? Maybe look at OEM radiator fan relays, or even *ord style starter relays if the Accuair controller can drive a coil that big. I'd bet it's just the high motor current that's smoking the contacts as opposed to a collapsing field or "kick-back". On the control side, it wouldn't hurt to use diodes across the relay coils to help protect the outputs of the Accuair controller.

Edit... Assume the Accuair is calling the compressors to run based on a pressure switch input OR is the pressure switch hard wired to the pump relays?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Those are going to be cool pieces Vic!

Surprised the compressors don't have built in reliefs? Maybe look at OEM radiator fan relays, or even *ord style starter relays if the Accuair controller can drive a coil that big. I'd bet it's just the high motor current that's smoking the contacts as opposed to a collapsing field or "kick-back". On the control side, it wouldn't hurt to use diodes across the relay coils to help protect the outputs of the Accuair controller.

Edit... Assume the Accuair is calling the compressors to run based on a pressure switch input OR is the pressure switch hard wired to the pump relays?

Hey John, thanks for the feedback. There's a 150 psi pressure switch on the tank that that sends a signal to the ECU which then toggles 12V to the relay coil to run the compressors. You may be right that the compressors have a built in relief, but I think they can pump up to 250 psi. When the relay contacts stuck, the compressor continued to run even though the ECU had dropped the coil voltage. I finally got concerned and disconnected the main power before finding out if there's a built in safety. I've ordered a 165 psi pop off valve just to be safe. I may wire in the diodes, though. They'll clamp the coil hysteresis. Still gonna get Bosch relays and ditch the made in China ones.

[Low Elco]

Glad you guys know what the hell you're talking about. I can hit things with hammers, does that help?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Glad you guys know what the hell you're talking about. I can hit things with hammers, does that help?

Good to know, Chip, I'll give you a call when it's "Hammer Time".

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Glad you guys know what the hell you're talking about. I can hit things with hammers, does that help?

, me too! This is half of my mess


20141011_141033 by [url=https://

Nice work, as always Vic. enjoy reading your posts

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

, me too! This is half of my mess. Nice work, as always Vic. enjoy reading your posts

Dang, Jim! That looks like a handy six mess for sure. No doubt you'll whip it into shape, though.

Wire looms are done and installed. Before anyone asks about the purple wires, they're a concession to Kathy's sister. As the build progressed, when she'd look it over, invariably she'd ask, "Where's the purple?" Kinda like that lady on the old Wendy's commercial asking, "Where's the beef?" Finally told her I'd put purple wires on it. The silver truck had purple lettering on the floor mats, so if this is too much, I may go that route later on.

[jaros44sr]

Very nice machine work, gotta get me one of those rounding over bits. Always like to see someone put their own handiwork into a build, nothing like a counter bored hole filled with a ss bolt

Yeah Vic, starting to get my head wrapped around electrical stuff
You re build is really slick
The V/Cs, headers, and engine paint really work well together. Just classic....

[Xeen]

It's the attention to detail that sets Vic's builds apart from the rest.
Outstanding!

[sduckworth13]

I like custom made Cook wire looms, those look nice and compact. The wires look good too Vic.

[jeh]

Very nice Vic, always curious to see what's next!!

[Low Elco]

Neat and tidy. Nice!