Make it handle

[BLK2K2SILVY]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

[IMG]http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/thrillagorillaTGR/91566e4e.jpg[IMG]

Did you get an argument out of the tech or shop manager for setting it to your specs? "You know you're going to cause premature tire wear if its not in the green!"

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by BLK2K2SILVY

Did you get an argument out of the tech or shop manager for setting it to your specs? "You know you're going to cause premature tire wear if its not in the green!"

No they just said no warranty. And no tire replacement. Then I took them for a ride and laughed at the grabs for non existant oh sh!t handles haha but they were surprised as hell it did what it does.

The biggest complaint, my upper control arm bolts aren't splined so you have to have a wrench on both sides to change out my washers that are the spacers

[robnolimit]

Here's a thought about tires. We all know they wear out, and some of the things we do make them wear out sooner. Most don't put that amany miles on these trucks, but some are DD's, or close. So, lets say a new set of skins costs 1200 bucks, I know, but I buy good tires. And, for a mormal driver, they last three years, again, I also buy sticky tires. Now, you do a more aggressive alignment, and you throttle it more, it is fun, and they only last two years.

Math time. $1200 for three years = $400 a year on tires. $1200 for two years = $600 a year on tires. The difference is $200 a year. That's $16.67 a month. And, thats for expensive tires and some spirited driving. Just give up two McBurgers a month and tell the alignment shop to man-up. Everything will work out. Better handling, and you'll drop a few pounds.

[CRGRS 66]

Pennies a day when you put it that way!

[aclew62]

Can anybody tell me why if we can buy a irs setup out of a crown vic for 400$ why would we go to all the trouble and expense to go four link or pan hard or three link or other setups?

[robnolimit]

anyone?

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by aclew62

Can anybody tell me why if we can buy a irs setup out of a crown vic for 400$ why would we go to all the trouble and expense to go four link or pan hard or three link or other setups?

Cause. Its made by a company we don't like. I'm sure even rob has a Chevy in his for-er truck lol plus alt of fab work in making the wheel base correct

[aclew62]

Wheelbase? I was under the impresion that the cradle could be easily welded into the frame. Rob refered to the "frod" nine inch great reputation in defense of the idea when he mentioned the C.V. irs swap posibility way back in make it handle I'm just trying to make up my mind about rear susp designes (lotsa ways to skin my cat), and it sounded like a two link with a nice low long pan hard bar and bags behind the axle with a 1 inch sway bar was the best/most cost efective way to go. is that true for a 62 s.w.b. c10? or do i want my bags on the trailing arm to get more out of them? EASILY CONFUSED

[ItsRandy]

Hey Rob, are you making any of those rear sway bars (like the one on JT) yet? I would like to buy one please. My truck is almost done and I need a rear sway bar.

[Greywolf200]

Originally Posted by aclew62

Can anybody tell me why if we can buy a irs setup out of a crown vic for 400$ why would we go to all the trouble and expense to go four link or pan hard or three link or other setups?

There is a thread on here showing the Ford IRS installation and it is possible but not pretty....lol I thought I had it bookmarked, but can't find it. I guess you can google Ford IRS for it. I would think it is a good idea for ride and handling, but I'm guessing hard to modify for improvements.

[68GMCCustom]

Originally Posted by aclew62

Can anybody tell me why if we can buy a irs setup out of a crown vic for 400$ why would we go to all the trouble and expense to go four link or pan hard or three link or other setups?

I thought the crown vic had a solid rear axle? And the irs's were coming from t-birds, cougar's and lincoln's?

[aclew62]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

Cause. Its made by a company we don't like. I'm sure even rob has a Chevy in his for-er truck lol plus alt of fab work in making the wheel base correct

OK, to much fab work and made by F.... thanks for the clarification I realy appreciate all the info on here, only wish I found it before buying the 77 for the cross member and control arms ect. Trying to nail down the best rear set up without buying the "wrong stuff" first.

[aclew62]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I thought the crown vic had a solid rear axle? And the irs's were coming from t-birds, cougar's and lincoln's?

Some crown vics had the irs. I found a police interceptor irs unit with low miles for 350$. so it sounded like a good way to go until you add up the fab time and materials.

[KQQL IT]

Cvpi's ive been under all were straight axles.
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[robnolimit]

These do have IRS units in them. And, they can be installed into older trucks. But, the fab work is exstensive. Next, I'm not sure there is much gain. The CV is a bit heavier than the truck, so lighter springs or bags are needed. Converting to a coil-over is a mess. The 8.8 gear is good up to 400hp or so, but the half shaft & c.v.'s are only good for 325hp. Stronger parts are avail from the Shelby guys, but at 500hp, it's time to throw that stuff out and go to a solid axle. SO, whats the verdict? If your building a mild cruiser on a budget and you have plenty of fab skills and time, go for it. If this doesn't sound like you, don't.

[Grimee]

Hey Rob
Lets see some pics of that new wide ride ? or should i go to the web site to get the lowdown . I have been waiting to check it out before I start on the new build

[RdoubleU]

Originally Posted by ItsRandy

Hey Rob, are you making any of those rear sway bars (like the one on JT) yet? I would like to buy one please. My truck is almost done and I need a rear sway bar.

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[ItsRandy]

Originally Posted by ItsRandy

Hey Rob, are you making any of those rear sway bars (like the one on JT) yet? I would like to buy one please. My truck is almost done and I need a rear sway bar.

Any?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by Grimee

Hey Rob
Lets see some pics of that new wide ride ? or should i go to the web site to get the lowdown . I have been waiting to check it out before I start on the new build

, thanks for the interest. I will be posting up more today on the "No Limit Spy Photos" thread in the Suspension Marketplace. I'll put up one or two on here as well. But, I'm really trying to keep the integrity of this thread, and not turn it into a sales forum. I'm afraid if it goes that way, other knowlegable people will shy away and not comment here. And, as I'm trying to get all of the best info on here from all the best sorces..
Good seeing you in P-town, the Blazer looks good out there (or Yukon?) How's the new project coming?

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by RdoubleU

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I'm tryin guys. For some reason this project is dragging on. Current interest is pushing me to go get some spurs and kick this thing forward somehow. I'll keep you posted. SOON

[Pzary3233]

Rob, I've been watching this thread with quite a bit of interest! I've recently gotten into the world of classic trucks and was excited to see this thread crop up. I'm finishing up an LSx swap in a 99 M3 for my track car/toy. However the truck needs to handle well too because what fun is a truck that handles like an old truck.

Here is my current list of what I want to do, please feel free to pick at it. I've basically used this thread as the handling "bible" when it comes to making these truck handle.

Front Suspension

*I have a completely new rebuilt front end from a '72 C10, that I am going to swap to my current frame/crossmember.
*2.5" Dropped Spindles
*Moog Springs - The #6102 cut one coil
*Powersteering using a Lee's box and Captain Fab's bracket
*Swaybar - Helwig or yours I'd love to give you some business!

Rear:
*No Limit Shock Relocation Brackets
*No Limit Panhard Bard
*2" Lowering blocks possibly 3"? I am not sure how I feel about 3" blocks...
*Spring Choice??? I do not hear much about a rear spring choice. I'm thinking about ordering some different afco springs from the local dirt track shop and play with lengths and rates. Possibly even some weight jacks for adjustability.
*Flip the trailing arm brackets

Blistein shocks all around

I'd love to go with some sort of modular spindle and some geometry correcting lower control arms, but I think for now what is shown in this thread seems to fit the bill... Maybe down the road. This will give me a good solid base to start from.

[robnolimit]

looks like a good list. Do the caster mod and move the lower arm forward 3/4" to 1". (3/4" requires less grinding). Max safe block is 2". A-body chevelle springs have the same pigtail, but getting the height right may take some trial and error. I have tried the 250, 275, and 300 lb springs, I like the 275lb'ers the best, but you won't be hauling much with them. Welding in a socket of a weight jack is the smartest thing to do, then you can set the R.H. perfect.

[Pzary3233]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

looks like a good list. Do the caster mod and move the lower arm forward 3/4" to 1". (3/4" requires less grinding). Max safe block is 2". A-body chevelle springs have the same pigtail, but getting the height right may take some trial and error. I have tried the 250, 275, and 300 lb springs, I like the 275lb'ers the best, but you won't be hauling much with them. Welding in a socket of a weight jack is the smartest thing to do, then you can set the R.H. perfect.

Perfect, glad to know about the A body springs, Not going to be hauling much of anything in the truck... If I decide to actually haul something I'll grab some Firestone airbags. Time to go take a look at the Afco catalog.

[Low68]

I have a quick question about tire sizing. I am getting ready to buy new tires and am looking at the different options. Any recommendations? Specifically on sidewall heights? I have 20" wheels, 8.5 & 10s. Is 245/35 and 285/30 too small? I don't care for the bulgy tire look, but would I benefit a lot from going to 255 in front and 295 in the back?

[robnolimit]

Tire sizing depends on what you want from the tires. Looks, stance, performance, ride...... The lower the sidewall, the worse the ride, but, to a point, the better the handling. A tire with 30% to 35% aspect ratio (sidewall spec) seams to be at the handling limit. A tire with less than 3" of sidewall has a hard time settling in to a corner. The tires you spec are
245 35 20 285 30 20
in inches
9.64w 3.31sw 26.62dia 11.22w 3.36sw 26.72dia
if you changed to
245 40 20 285 35 20
you'd get
9.64 3.85 27.7 11.22 3.92 27.85
or
255 35 20 295 30 20
to get
10.03" 3.51 27.02 11.61 3.48 26.97
these are all in the ball park, the next question is, can you get the size you want with matching tread. Check out Tire Rack or Discount tire online to make the homework easier.