Got some new wheels: Boss 338's in 20x10 and 20x8.5

[HotRod C/10]

Ha, he is in afghanistan, he just asked me to get him priceing and has sent me some cash for wheels and tires, among other stuff.

[buckskins4ever]

I went with the Ridler 695 in Chrome for my bagger stepside....20x10 rear and 20x8.5 fronts with Hankook 245/45 front and 275/45 rears......Love the stance and look.

[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by hotrod c/10

ha, he is in afghanistan, he just asked me to get him priceing and has sent me some cash for wheels and tires, among other stuff.

see vendor section or call 918-845-1935

[ksbrktracer]

New style of 338 , same as 3rd revision wheels with smooth barrel

[ksbrktracer]

18 x8 in black

[srea76]

Are the new runs direct bolt on or does truck still need modified for fit?

[RaceAGMC]

Can you get the 22's in the charcoal centers with the polished lip like all the other sizes?
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[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by srea76

Are the new runs direct bolt on or does truck still need modified for fit?

depends on who you talk to and what rotors your truck has on the front.
I just did a 72 with 1-1/4 thick rotors and they bolted right on, but I have discovered they are aftermarket rotors, I am looking into it right now. I will have good info in the next day or two.

[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by RaceAGMC

Can you get the 22's in the charcoal centers with the polished lip like all the other sizes?
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Yes

SEE VENDOR SECTION

[wildmanaaron]

Originally Posted by Benji_1802

Hey guys, here is my truck with the 20x10 & 20x8.5 set up. i just tappered my rotors to fit the wheel in front and used a 1/4" spacer with longer studs, i had no problems with the center cap.

I'm gonna have to do this on a 1974 Caprice I just bought. It has the same larger rotor as used in the HD C10 rotor. I had to taper the hub as in your photos and have ordered ten longer qheel studs. with the 1/4" spacers, the wheel center aticks out past the hub as shown in your photo. without the spacer, the wheel center hits the hub where the grease cap goes. Have the Boss 338 in 18's.

Did you have to use the Cragar mag style lug nuts or just regular acorn nuts? Is there any type of safety concern with the way you mounted these?
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[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by wildmanaaron

I'm gonna have to do this on a 1974 Caprice I just bought. It has the same larger rotor as used in the HD C10 rotor. I had to taper the hub as in your photos and have ordered ten longer qheel studs. with the 1/4" spacers, the wheel center aticks out past the hub as shown in your photo. without the spacer, the wheel center hits the hub where the grease cap goes. Have the Boss 338 in 18's.

Did you have to use the Cragar mag style lug nuts or just regular acorn nuts? Is there any type of safety concern with the way you mounted these?
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I can tell you that the wheels go right on the light duty rotors which are available on 81 and newer 1/2 tons with 1" thick rotor, although some have the non light duty rotors. I have a 78 blazer with 1-1/4" thick rotors and the wheels will not fit without modding the rotor snout. I have an 86 crosmember under my 68 SWB and it has 1-1/4" thick rotors and the wheel fits without modding the rotor.
There are differences in the rotors and the simplest way I can tell if they will fit is if the snout measures 2-3/4 accross it wont fit without working on the rotor. We just recently put wheels on the front of my cousins 72 and it has 1-1/4" thick rotors and the wheels went on with no modifications.
Also wheels that have a cap that is held on with an o-ring instead of tabs are revision 3 wheels. Revision 3 wheels are the ones that will fit sometimes as I have found out so far. I am a stocking dealer for 338's and these are my personal experiences so far , not rumor or hearsay.
I would tell someone who is going to do drop spindles and wants 338's to get spindles that use the light duty rotors and you won't have any problems putting them on. I know they make a spindle in this configuration as I have a pair of them right now and they fit the wheels perfectly. No spacer or anything. They us an a-corn style lugnut

These are pictures of the wheel on a 1" rotor , fully seated and no spacer.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Paraphrasing about seventy other previous posts in this thread...including at least one of my own:

"....5 min. per side of light weight grinding is all it takes to make these work in any set of circumstances,
or with any type of rotors."

I'd say, "Why give up the meaty rotors just to avoid ten minutes of easy grinding?"


YMMV.

[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by magwakeenercew2jh

Paraphrasing about seventy other previous posts in this thread...including at least one of my own:

"....5 min. per side of light weight grinding is all it takes to make these work in any set of circumstances,
or with any type of rotors."

I'd say, "Why give up the meaty rotors just to avoid ten minutes of easy grinding?"


YMMV.

Not saying that at all , just that if you were buying spindles and didnt want any hassle installing them ...... Light duty rotors would be the hassle free way to go. Nothing wrong with grinding on the rotors at all , just some people dont want to and this would be a bolt on deal with no mods whatsoever. JUST ANOTHER OPTION is all.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by ksbrktracer

Not saying that at all , just that if you were buying spindles and didnt want any hassle installing them ...... Light duty rotors would be the hassle free way to go. Nothing wrong with grinding on the rotors at all , just some people dont want to and this would be a bolt on deal with no mods whatsoever. JUST ANOTHER OPTION is all.

I hear ya.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by ksbrktracer

Not saying that at all , just that if you were buying spindles and didnt want any hassle installing them ...... Light duty rotors would be the hassle free way to go. Nothing wrong with grinding on the rotors at all , just some people dont want to and this would be a bolt on deal with no mods whatsoever. JUST ANOTHER OPTION is all.

I think grinding the HD rotors would be easier,... if that's what you have.

Converting an HD rotor equipped truck to the light duty 1" rotors requires:
1) spindle swap
2) caliper swap
3) rotor swap
4) 1 of the bearings is different.

10 minutes of grinding beats that easily!

[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I think grinding the HD rotors would be easier,... if that's what you have.

Converting an HD rotor equipped truck to the light duty 1" rotors requires:
1) spindle swap
2) caliper swap
3) rotor swap
4) 1 of the bearings is different.

10 minutes of grinding beats that easily!

Absolutely agree 100 % , MY thoughts were if you had say a 70 or older and were going to buy new spindles and put discs on , the hassle free way would be to go with the lighter rotors. All I was trying to do was come up with a way that a person could use the 338's and be a direct fit.
I have a question Keith ..... have you seen any 1-1/4 rotors the wheels wil fit ...... ? I have seen two different ones , my 86 suburban crossmember I put under my 68 and my cousins 72 with aftermarket rotors from napa (not sure of the part # tho)

[lolife99]

I personally have not seen any 1-1/4 rotors that don't require grinding.
Seems like the new parts store rotors are more bulky than oem GM rotors.
But how many trucks on the road today still have their originally installed rotors?

A sandpaper flap disc on a grinder will solve any issues.

[ksbrktracer]

See vendor section for current deals.

[mikes61]

I have a 61 apache does anyone know if i can fit a 20x10 wheel on the rear?? and if so would i need a 6.25 backspace or 5.5 ?? Thanks

[brossow]

Originally Posted by mikes61

I have a 61 apache does anyone know if i can fit a 20x10 wheel on the rear?? and if so would i need a 6.25 backspace or 5.5 ?? Thanks

Have you swapped the rear end from something else? Or axles? These wheels are 5-lug only AFAIK and won't bolt up to a stock '61 rear. The answer about backspacing depends on what rear you're running.

Great-looking truck, BTW!

[mikes61]

stock 61 rear with drilled 5 lug axles

[ksbrktracer]

To be 100% sure you are probably going to have to do a little measuring, and I would measure both sides to be sure. I have seen wheels fit on one side and not on the other . Which could be due to any number of things. Put a straightedge on the wheel mounting flange and measure to whatever may interfere, (bedside...inner and outer) to start with . This should get you in the ball park and also remember to account for tire bulge .

[bryan76]

just got my 20x10 in and the offset is 2 the part number 3387-2085-1aa is this the revised ones all ive seen on their website was 20mm offset will these fit for 73-87 thanks......
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[brossow]

Originally Posted by bryan76

just got my 20x10 in and the offset is 2 the part number 3387-2085-1aa is this the revised ones all ive seen on their website was 20mm offset will these fit for 73-87 thanks......
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Where did you get that part number and offset info from? Doesn't appear to be valid. -1AA is the first run of these wheels and had several fitment issues. (-3AA is the current revision and still has issues.) Check the label on the box or the wheels and get back to us.

[bryan76]

that part number was on the box and wheel but i googled that number and it shows up but not on boss website and the inspection sticker on the the wheels were 3-13-13 im lost lol i guess ill just fit them and see but of all the ones that ive seen on here were 20 mm offset
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