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03-31-2015, 01:00 AM | #1 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
By the way the hood turned out great!
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1977 Chevrolet C/10 Silverado. Step-Side, Factory 454, TH400, 3.73 Posi 12 Bolt. 1975 Chevrolet El Camino. 350, TH400, 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt. |
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03-31-2015, 02:19 AM | #2 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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03-31-2015, 12:54 AM | #3 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Oh my goodness.
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03-31-2015, 02:01 AM | #4 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
for anyone wanting to see a in depth view of the steering column being taken apart:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/sm...?topic=12525.0 |
04-01-2015, 09:18 PM | #5 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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Last edited by Gregski; 04-01-2015 at 09:35 PM. |
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04-01-2015, 11:14 PM | #6 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
OK, so I figured it out it goes behind this switch rack to push it against the plastic spector gear better/firmly
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03-31-2015, 02:26 AM | #7 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
found this page on the interwebs that explains what each wire does on the turn signal switch wiring harness ie the non ignition switch wires that run up the steering column
this isn't the exact part / plug match but the wires seem identical, so it might could help somebody out, I know it beats the wiring schematics for me anyways white - stop lamp switch (what is that?) green - right rear turn signal yellow - left rear turn signal purple - turn flasher (what is that?) brown - hazard flasher dark blue - right front turn signal light blue - left front turn signal black - horn |
04-01-2015, 12:24 AM | #8 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
ok fellas help me out here (while we wait for the ignition sector gear to show up) knowing what we know now about the rainbow of colors turn signal switch plug and wiring harness:
How do we activate / test each component? For example what do we supply to the GREEN wire to make the right rear turn signal turn on? Do we give it positive power, or do we connect negative to it? I ask because to activate the horn BLACK wire I have to connect negative to it, but to activate the turn signals GREEN, YELLOW, LIGHT BLUE, DARK BLUE, I have to give positive power to it. No idea how to activate the other ones, WHITE, PURPLE, BROWN. Please enlighten me in the ways of electric current flow. |
04-01-2015, 01:24 AM | #9 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
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As far as the turn signal and hazard wiring goes.... they are all positive. I am a retired automotive electrician the only test one would do at that connection would be to trouble shoot a single circuit not working as it is suppose to. generally it is fairly obvious if the switch is bad. For the basics you need to know which way the current flows. all circuits form a loop you need to determine where the part you are testing is in that loop. one way is to figure out where the load (light) is in the loop. Then figure out where the control (switch) is. If the control is in front of the load its positive, if behind it is negative. so lets apply this to your horn circuit. the horn is grounded to the chassis by mounting. the green lead goes back to the relay. A relay is nothing more than a switch. the other side of the relay is fed with battery voltage. to energize the relay we need a control circuit. power enters the relay as normal battery voltage but to energize it we need to complete the circuit. so from the control side power goes in and the ground goes up the column through the T/S switch to the horn contact when you press the horn it ground the black wire which energizes the relay and the horn blows. I am sure this is all clear as mud. I do better as a teacher in person
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1977 Chevrolet C/10 Silverado. Step-Side, Factory 454, TH400, 3.73 Posi 12 Bolt. 1975 Chevrolet El Camino. 350, TH400, 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt. |
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03-31-2015, 02:40 AM | #10 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
this shows what the pins on the ignition switch are, mine doesn't use all of them but the ones that it uses match
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03-31-2015, 02:47 AM | #11 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Diagram of the two plugs the white one and the black one that plug in to the ignition switch and what they do
WHITE CONNECTOR Pink - Start & Run (connect this to the ignition) ... Pink is ignition, pink is ignition, pink... Purple - Start (connect this to the starter solenoid)... Purple is starter, purple is starter... Red - This is the Battery connection bringing power into the switch. Red is usually power, red... Brown - Accessory & Run (Accessories....) BLACK CONNECTOR Red - This is the Battery connection bringing power into the switch. Orange - Run (connect this to power anything in the Run state) I also have a Dark Brown / White Stripe wire going here, not sure what it's for Light Brown / Black Stripe - Start position switches this lead to ground Last edited by Gregski; 03-31-2015 at 03:15 AM. |
03-31-2015, 12:54 PM | #12 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
The colors match and the pins themselves match, but the plastic connectors can be slightly different between the years. I pulled pins from the '82 tilt column and combined the wiring from my broken '74 column and everything connected and functioned properly. Aside from one slightly infected puncture wound from a steel pick tool while removing a pin, everything went smooth with that part of it. Post '96 of my build thread if you'd like to take a gander, but pictures were slim at the time because I had such a bad time pulling my old column out since I had never done it before.
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03-31-2015, 03:48 PM | #13 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Well I'll be.
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04-01-2015, 08:52 PM | #14 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
i also want to know what the white wire is.
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04-01-2015, 08:59 PM | #15 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
The white wire is the feed for the brake light (stop light). It comes from the stop light switch and goes into the T/S. From there it goes on its way to the rear lights
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1977 Chevrolet C/10 Silverado. Step-Side, Factory 454, TH400, 3.73 Posi 12 Bolt. 1975 Chevrolet El Camino. 350, TH400, 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt. |
04-01-2015, 11:32 PM | #16 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy
ok so let me share with you the anatomy of the ignition switch assembly
first of all it is mechanical and not electronic, say what? yes the actual ignition switch does have wires plugged into it, but it is operated / manipulated mechanically so it all starts with you putting the Key in the Ignition Lock Cylinder (as opposed to the door lock cylinder) notice I did not say what we all have heard andy maybe even said "Put the key in the ignition" umm no or worse "Put the key in the ignition switch" On our trucks the key goes into a Lock Cylinder and there are no wires (at least on mine) that plug into there, zero, nada, zilch the Lock Cylinder connects to a plastic gear called an Ignition Switch Sector which looks like a half circle with teeth on it [pronounced "The Part That Usually Fails"] The Sector Gear connects to the Switch Rack Assembly made out of what seems like the world's finest shinny pot metal, kinda like a rack and pinion steering concept a round ball makes a 2x4 go side to side or up and down concept The Rack connects to a Switch Rod, basically about a foot long metal coat hanger looking thing with two hooks one at each end, this works like a push \ pull device So far we covered five components, Key, Cylinder, Sector, Rack, and Rod and no wires to speak of, see MECHANICAL finally the Rod connects to the actual Ignition Switch, now this switch actually has two funky looking plastic connectors which plug into it, in my case one plug is white and the other black yours may differ So I like to think of this as an old lazy man sitting in his lazy boy and using a broom stick to turn the light switch off and on located just out of reach on the wall next to him ~ how's that for an analogy And this my friends is why these vehicles were / are so easy to steal, and I speak from experience... no I do not steal cars, I had one stolen. You see all you have to do is get ahold of that metal rod maybe cut it and push it down and whalla vroom vroom vroom truck is running Last edited by Gregski; 04-01-2015 at 11:40 PM. |
04-02-2015, 12:01 AM | #17 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy
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To steal one..... You would not cut the rod. While you can start it that way, it does not bypass the steering wheel lock. The easiest and most effective way to steal a vehicle of the late 60's and 70's is to just use a slide hammer with a screw in the end. Then just thread it directly into the cylinder key slot and pull the cylinder. After that you can use a common screwdriver to twist the sector and work the ignition.
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1977 Chevrolet C/10 Silverado. Step-Side, Factory 454, TH400, 3.73 Posi 12 Bolt. 1975 Chevrolet El Camino. 350, TH400, 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt. Last edited by Titomars; 04-02-2015 at 12:09 AM. |
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04-02-2015, 12:14 AM | #18 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy
See, I would not make a good car thief, lol, thanks for the history of development it was a neat time for sure, now cars are just appliances, borring
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04-02-2015, 12:46 AM | #19 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy
Hah !!! I thought I was the only person calling today's vehicles "Appliances". You know I remember a time when a car Divisions offerings for a specific year created excitement. The buyer had so many choices. Now everything looks the same regardless of brand.
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1977 Chevrolet C/10 Silverado. Step-Side, Factory 454, TH400, 3.73 Posi 12 Bolt. 1975 Chevrolet El Camino. 350, TH400, 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt. |
04-02-2015, 02:29 AM | #20 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy
Yeah, they all look like jelly beans. Even the pickup trucks. Then someone puts a tiny crease in the sheet metal down the side of a new model and all the car mags get chubbies over it. Losers.
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04-02-2015, 12:52 AM | #21 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy
deleted, double post
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1977 Chevrolet C/10 Silverado. Step-Side, Factory 454, TH400, 3.73 Posi 12 Bolt. 1975 Chevrolet El Camino. 350, TH400, 3.08 Posi 10 Bolt. |
04-05-2015, 11:26 AM | #22 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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04-05-2015, 11:31 AM | #23 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty - Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy
Yup, it's called a large flat screw driver, found one on the floor of my Blazer when the cops recovered it. Funny thing is they said yeah, come on down it's driveable, and had me drive it home with the steering column in shreds.
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04-01-2015, 11:35 PM | #24 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
here's another look at the Ignition Switch Assembly Anatomy with all the parts separated out a bit and with close ups to see how they interlock together
I found this interesting and hope it helps somebody out, I find beauty in the simplicity of these wonderful machines Last edited by Gregski; 04-01-2015 at 11:49 PM. |
04-01-2015, 11:42 PM | #25 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
size does matter, here's wishing this thing was three inches shorter
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