1967 Chevy CST aka "the loud truck"

[67chevy1series]

I think your right! I looked at a picture I took of my axle when there was no carrier in at all and I counted the teeth on my pinion... Counted more then 11! It was a rough pic but there were either 13 or 14 in the pic so what did I do today? Got up went to half price day at pick n pull went to a 68 and what did it have? 3.73! Counted the pinion teeth, there were 11 and counted the ring gear and it was 41 so I took it apart got the pinion and ring gear out and then I went and bought a new diff seal now I just need to get a new crush sleeve and some GM diff lube and positraction additive And install it all

[jbclassix]

Problem solved! Let me make one more recommendation for a new pinion nut. It is a must to replace. I would also check out my np205 thread for some tips on how to seal a yoke. Good luck bud!

[67chevy1series]

Hey Jeremy any recommendations you have throw em all my way! And where would I get a new pinion nut from?

[67chevy1series]

You said to put the Rtv sealant on the yoke but where do I apply the green loc-tite to?

[jbclassix]

This is the one from Oreilly's pinion shaft nut

Have you set rolling torque with a crush sleeve before? Best tool to have for that is a buddy. You will probably be good with your pinion depth shims that are already installed too... It's worth a shot to check your set up before removing the shim pack.

My other recommendation is to leave out the crush sleeve and use the old pinion nut while you are establishing contact pattern, and then, once you have your shim packs correct, then you can install your sleeve and new pinion nut.

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

This is the one from Oreilly's pinion shaft nut

Have you set rolling torque with a crush sleeve before? Best tool to have for that is a buddy. You will probably be good with your pinion depth shims that are already installed too... It's worth a shot to check your set up before removing the shim pack.

My other recommendation is to leave out the crush sleeve and use the old pinion nut while you are establishing contact pattern, and then, once you have your shim packs correct, then you can install your sleeve and new pinion nut.

I haven't ever messed with a pinion before except for taking that pinion out today lol and by shimming you mean the carrier right? And what is the torque for my rear pinion nut? Also went down to O Reilly's today and they don't have the right crush sleeve :/

[67chevy1series]

Today I guy advised me not to use a set of used gears because there's no way to get the "foot print" the same... Is this really true? I mean if a gear is used then it does have wear but at the same time some have been abused more then others, an the gears I got are not that bad I didn't think it was bad to try and reuse them what do you guys say?

[Ol Blue K20]

I have used used gears. I have replaced a bad pinion bearing and carrier bearings and put the old gears in....lets see jb's opinion he has more experiance at this stuff....

[67chevy1series]

Yeah see I don't think it's that bad.. And yeah jeremy is the man with drive trains for sure

[Ol Blue K20]

Hey Rick did you get my PM? I might be available next weekend (just talked to Lissa) but it sounds like you're down now so let me know

[67chevy1series]

I'm still looking for the crush sleeve.. I can't find it at any of the parts stores that and somebody to walk me through it in person are the only things stopping me let me know when you can come or when your ready

[Ol Blue K20]

Next weekend at the soonist Rick

[67chevy1series]

Alright I don't have any gear marking compound and I don't have service for my cellphone so can't really call or text me best wy is to message me on here or on facebook

[jbclassix]

Short answer:
Run it!

Long answer:
No long answer. I was going to go into how hypoid gears have a large contact area, and how involute gear teeth transfer force, and that non-integer gears dont contact the same tooth twice in a row... But I bored myself.

[67chevy1series]

Haha Jeremy! Thanks for the input! And also with 3.73's-350trans and the small block my gas mileage probably be around ??? I'm thinking maybe 12 in the city and also after the posi goes in I will be installing my freshly rebuilt 700r with a shift kit... Help the as mileage and now I have that extra gear more gears are always nice!

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

Haha Jeremy! Thanks for the input! And also with 3.73's-350trans and the small block my gas mileage probably be around ??? I'm thinking maybe 12 in the city and also after the posi goes in I will be installing my freshly rebuilt 700r with a shift kit... Help the as mileage and now I have that extra gear more gears are always nice!

Tune the SB right and get the TH350 to behave and you can do 12ish on a good day. Get that 700R in and your highway mileage will go up. But, Right foot tuning makes a difference too.

The best transmission ever made was by Chrysler, this one...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXW0bx_Ooq4

[67chevy1series]

Geegollygeewiz! I'm going to have to find one of them encabulators... Maybe get me about 50 gbt's

[jbclassix]

Rick, I forgot to tell you, there is no torque spec on the pinion nut. You set rolling torque by compressing the crush sleeve. You do this with the ring and carrier removed.

[67chevy1series]

Hmm so is there a ruff estimate? Or do I just crush it as much as I can while still having the pinion move freely?

[67chevy1series]

Alright so I replace the water pump and thermostat yesterday and now today I went to go drive the truck and now the temp gauge will barely get to the 2 bracket.. Hopefully I explained that right since there a total of 4 slanted lines there's 2 on the left and then there's the 2 on the right with the red inbetween them.. Well my needle goes between the 2 lines on the left.. Nowhere close to operating temperature. I had to cover the radiator so no air would cool the radiator just to get it to operating temp.... Water pump is working and so is the thermostat obviously, and the thermostat is a 195* 54mm thermostat which is exactly what I pulled out of the engine... And nothing's leaking at all its nice and sealed. Any advice?

[Ol Blue K20]

Rick, how far did you drive it? My Elky has the huge radator in it but with this cold snap it takes almost 20 miles before it can warm up all that coolant. I use the cardboard when I'm at the cabin in the snow but I only cover up half the rad in my dually.

[67chevy1series]

That's exactly what I was planning on doing it was pretty cold and I drove it all the way through town all of Merced probably a good 45 minutes of driving and the needle went inbetween the 2 marks on the left and stayed there :/

[Ol Blue K20]

Did ya get the rearend finished?

[67chevy1series]

Nope :/ still need to get a crush sleeve..

[jbclassix]

do you have a inch pound dial or beam torque wrench? That is something you will need. Here is my Cliff note rear end set up guide

Disclaimer: this procedure applies to crush sleeve style rear axles only and does not include torque specifications as it is highly recommended that an instillation guide be referenced.

1. safety first! Block wheels if on the ground, jack stands, safety glasses, etc.
2. clean parts. then clean them again
3. dremmel out the crimped threads of the old pinion nut so that it can be installed and removed easily. retain this because now you have a special tool.
4. establish diff carrier total shim pack thickness with pinion removed (you will now be able to adjust contact pattern my moving shims from one side to the other without adding or subtracting any) remove carrier
5. lightly coat pinion bearings with oil
6. install pinion without crush sleeve or pinion seal. Use modified nut. torque to slight drag is felt rotating pinion.
7. lightly coat carrier bearings with oil
8. install carrier. lightly coat cap bolts with oil, install caps and torque to spec.
9. check back lash and contact pattern. Use reference charts available to determine direction to move ring gear and pinion.
10. once back lash and pattern are dialed in, remove carrier
11. now install NEW crush sleeve and pinion seal. lightly grease seal lip
12. install yoke with sealant applied to splines.
13. use special nut to draw pinion down to where almost no end play is felt in pinion bearings. at this point, proper torque is near. remove special nut and install inner seal (if used) and NEW pinion nut.
14. tighten pinion nut until ZERO end play is felt. tighten pinion nut less than 1/8 turn at a time to prevent over crush of sleeve. Pinion torque is established by determining the resistance required to rotate the pinion. this is where a beam or dial torque wrench is required. Click type will not work.
15. install carrier and torque caps to proper spces.