Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[78 Chevyrado]

That computer mount looks real nice man!

Dumb Question: so was the computer mounted under the hood on the newer truck? I assume so since the wiring harness comes out the front left of the engine. I also assume you put it up towards the front to be in a cooler area. Is there anything that needs special attention, weatherproofing wise?

[Butcherboy]

Originally Posted by 78 Chevyrado

That computer mount looks real nice man!

Dumb Question: so was the computer mounted under the hood on the newer truck? I assume so since the wiring harness comes out the front left of the engine. I also assume you put it up towards the front to be in a cooler area. Is there anything that needs special attention, weatherproofing wise?

The Pin Plugs Have a gasket sealing the Connectors. I think that's all it needs. My '05 Duramax is mounted Right on the Engine. But I would mount it away from engine Like Bob did. Heat or not, Think it would be wise to keep it cool!

That's my 2cents!

[fpjr0]

since this almost has become the how to's of the square body community, and I am the most question asker person you will ever meet,,,I have a few ? can I run the feed hose from tank to pump with a EFI hose and EFI style clamps and the return also? and how hard would it be to used both thanks with inline pump? tank is from the original 84 chevy
thanks in advaced....

you guys have no idea what is like to drive 700 miles a day and think about the swap about 699 of them ...

[glock35ipsc]

Yes, you can run the feed and returns between the tank and pump with regular FI hose and FI clamps. That's how mine is set up.

Using the inline pump on both tanks..... personally, I would not. If I were to try that using inline pumps, I would use a separate pump for each tank (mounted as close to the tank as possible), into a separate filter/regulator for each tank, then through one-way check valves, then through a "T". Then when one pump is powered, it flows through the one-way valve, through the "T", and on to the engine, and any fuel that turns around at the "T" will hit the other pump's one-way vale and prevent back-flowing into the other tank.

[fpjr0]

ok I got you on the 2 pumps,2filters and the t and check valve way....I am trying to order all the stuff I need, I probaly just run 1 tank for now...

[joe231]

someone on here (Dirty Larry??) is running dual tanks with one OEM style in tank pump. He has a transfer pump to transfer fuel from the one without the pump in it to the one with the pump. He has the pump hooked to a switch and he just flips the switch on and watches the gas gauge as to when to turn the pump off, just another option...

[glock35ipsc]

Eeks, that's kind of scary. Get distracted for just a couple seconds at the right (wrong) moment and ..... unless there is some sort of safety cut-off switch involved.

[fpjr0]

man I am sorry for asking too many questions,,, but this is only my second engine swap and the first one was 350 to 350.. but I am lost on the fitting world... I have a one line fuel line to the engine .. but I am lost on what fittings I need,, I was going to order some braided -6 an line and one of this
http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/15117/10002/-1 or one of this,http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/15118/10002/-1 to hook from the fuel rail to the braided line, then I guess one of this http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/15103/10002/-1 to hook from line to filter/regulator. then I dont now the right fitting from the pump to regulator since I dont have the pump,, on its web page it said its out put is 10mx1 but not sure... let me know what you guys think,,, and if I am asking too many questions let me know so I quit hacking this thread .. thanks in advanced.. got to go drive another 200 miles,, I am out

, man is hard trying to figure out what I need with out actually looking at the truck and fuel pump

[rongstad]

If you are trying to do this... then you will need these type.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=168


or this then this type:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=547

Part numbers for the second one:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=512

Detailed list of parts Bob used for the "Fred" build

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...postcount=1259

[fpjr0]

thanks.... rongstand I see you are in san antonio also..,, any chance you let me see that truck..I like how Bob did his, I am just gonna order everything he ordered. lol and go from there

[rongstad]

Originally Posted by fpjr0

thanks.... rongstand I see you are in san antonio also..,, any chance you let me see that truck..I like how Bob did his, I am just gonna order everything he ordered. lol and go from there

nice, good luck ordering pieces, some of the quick release fittings are on back order-two weeks or so....my truck is in several pieces I'm waiting for my re-worked harness and complete painless 87 harness before I dare to turn wrenches...

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Rongstand - Thanks for posting those links! I didn't see that you had posted until I had posted.

your welcome......just tryin to spread the wealth as I learn.....

[fpjr0]

[QUOTE=rongstad;3780638]nice, good luck ordering pieces, some of the quick release fittings are on back order-two weeks or so....my truck is in several pieces I'm waiting for my re-worked harness and complete painless 87 harness before I dare to turn wrenches...

thats cool ;man. I did get all the fittings.. the hard go get one from the vette filter to the 6 an line I found it locally,here in sa..,

bob you could always send your truck south to tx and me and rongstad could take it to the dyno and then maybe just maybe send it back to you....

[glock35ipsc]

Let's start at the engine and go backwards:

The connector for the fuel rail:
-6AN Fuel rail adapter: RUS-640850, $16 (summitracing.com)


The fittings for each end of the SS braided hose that runs from the fuel rail to the filter/regulator (F/R):
-6AN Straight Hose End: SUM-220690, $4.88 each (summitracing.com)


On the discharge (engine) side of the F/R:
3/8" x 12" Double End Male, Dorman 800155 (rockauto.com) You will cut this in half and only use one piece.

-6AN tube nut, RUS-660570, $3.00 ea (summitracing.com) Pack of 2

-6AN tube sleeve, RUS-660650, $2.50 ea (summitracing.com) Pack of 2

-6AN coupler, male/male, RUS-660350, $3.50 ea (summitracing.com)


After you cut it in half, clean the cut end real good so there is no burrs. The end with the lip will push and lock into the F/R. You will also need to flare the cut end. IT MUST BE DONE WITH A 37° FLARE, NOT A 45° FLARE!! On the cut end, slide on the tube nut, then the sleeve, then flare the end. If you can't find someone local who can do a 37° flare, let me know. You can mail it to me with the sleeve and nut and I will flare it for you.

On the inlet (tank) side of the F/R:
Feed:
Fuel fitler adapter 5/16", Dorman 800120, $6.30 ea (rockauto.com)

Return
Fuel fitler adapter 3/8", Dorman 800121, $6.30 ea (rockauto.com)


On these two ^^^ you will run the FI rated rubber hose and use the FI rated clamps.

The 10m fitting on the pump is the equivalent of 3/8".

[glock35ipsc]

Rongstand - Thanks for posting those links! I didn't see that you had posted until I had posted.

[Oilbrnr]

While we are talking fuel delivery, how does the EP-381 pump mate to the sending unit, both for fuel and power?

[soule64]

Originally Posted by Oilbrnr

While we are talking fuel delivery, how does the EP-381 pump mate to the sending unit, both for fuel and power?

The base of the sending unit holds the inlet end of the pump in place. Fuel hose attaches the outlet of the pump to the outlet of the sending unit. The wiring is plug and play to the sending unit.

[Butcherboy]

Originally Posted by soule64

The base of the sending unit holds the inlet end of the pump in place. Fuel hose attaches the outlet of the pump to the outlet of the sending unit. The wiring is plug and play to the sending unit.

Soule, What fuel pump is that? Very nice setup, looks factory!

Thanks
Justin

[Oilbrnr]

Originally Posted by soule64

The base of the sending unit holds the inlet end of the pump in place. Fuel hose attaches the outlet of the pump to the outlet of the sending unit. The wiring is plug and play to the sending unit.

Is that just the FI hose and FI clamps that attach the pump to the sender then?

[soule64]

Originally Posted by Oilbrnr

Is that just the FI hose and FI clamps that attach the pump to the sender then?

The bottom of the sending unit is like a 'cup' that is slightly larger than the pump itself. It has a hole in it for the inlet end of the pump to draw fuel through. The pump sits in the cup and the section of hose with clamps holds everything in place. If memory serves me correctly, I used a zip-tieacross the pumpt, too. The clamps I used are incorrect and will be replaced.

[glock35ipsc]

It is a direct replacement to the original.

[fpjr0]

Bob looking at the pics of your fuel set up.. what if I used the EFI hose fuel line with EFI clamps like you used , but use that same line and claps to run the line from the filter to the fuel rail... sorry just trying to make my application the less complicated possible. thanks

[glock35ipsc]

I'm not a fan of running that much solid rubber line. You could, and I am at the moment, but I will be replacing it with SS braided line from the F/R to the engine real soon. That's just too much rubber line bouncing around that could get a hole rubbed in it. I have the line from the F/R to the engine covered in split loom, and wrapped in heat tape where it passes over the exhaust. It's one of the things I did that I don't like and will be redoing very soon.

[fpjr0]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

I'm not a fan of running that much solid rubber line. You could, and I am at the moment, but I will be replacing it with SS braided line from the F/R to the engine real soon. That's just too much rubber line bouncing around that could get a hole rubbed in it. I have the line from the F/R to the engine covered in split loom, and wrapped in heat tape where it passes over the exhaust. It's one of the things I did that I don't like and will be redoing very soon.

you are right on the bouncing around with the possibility to get a hole rubbed in it....ok I decided on the Russell 640850 fitting from the rail into a 6 an male adapter , to a 6an braided hose, then at the end of the braided hose I am going to put another Russell 640850 adapter and then the double bead line x 12 that you cut in half... I am going to not cut it and put one end into the russell adapter and the other into the filter/reg.. hope it works lol,, as said before hard to tell since I dont have all the parts in hand

[Butcherboy]

Bob,( And everyone here) thanks for posting that fuel line info. I was going to ask you how it was done on Fred. Very helpful links, should be able to adapt it on my blazer fuel system.

Thanks again, You where right! I spend too much time on here now!

Justin

[fpjr0]

thanks for answering some many questions Bob, I dont mine paying some $$$ for the stuff , but just trying to get away from that many fittings,,