Rat repair.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Darien

Hate to say it but it looks like you don't have a stock seat, the 67-72 seats all have the adjuster on the outside next to the door. the springs are different too.


The rod I was referring to can be seen in my previous post, its a rod that measures .157 in diameter and is bent on the ends to go into the adjuster keys. you can see on one pic its hooked up and the other its laying about 2" past the adjuster key.

I snapped another couple pic's of it.

I removed the stock seat brackets, they are the same as the ones I have on my new seat, but the passenger side does have a different key but ether of them will work in my stock bracket, just for some reason the slot in the new bracket is a bit small so its gonna get the file treatment soon.

Would still like to determine if the 67-72 seats had a wire or the .157 rod but if it will work with a bend in it and attached to the seat frame I'll use it.

The rest of the stereo goodies less the subs.


Working this weekend so don't know how much I'm gonna get done.....

Interesting. Well I bought the seat used before I realized I should stop buying parts I don't need right away. I threw away the original seat, but I kept the brackets.

I looked on LMC's site and they only show a wire going through the seat, not a rod. Hope that helps. I will have to take a look at my original seat brackets when I get back from vacation. Have to catch a flight in 4-1/2 hours. No sleep tonight.

If the rod you have works, I agree - just use it.

[swamp rat]

Slow progress....

I filed the passenger slider bracket and fitted one of the keys and installed, did some research and figured out the rod bends upward towards the seat and is attached by one or two rings, I also added a couple small springs to the rod to add a little tension.

Now i'm assuming the driver side only has the spring?

[7dee2]

Slow progress is way better than no progress, keep at it! We've had the bench seat out of Blue (in storage currently) several times but I don't have any pics of the underside of the seat. Have you tried posting in the main pickup section yet?

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Slow progress is way better than no progress, keep at it! We've had the bench seat out of Blue (in storage currently) several times but I don't have any pics of the underside of the seat. Have you tried posting in the main pickup section yet?

I didn't bother posting but Googled it using "72 chevy bench seat adjuster 67-72" that searches the forum as well as whatever else, I found the info I needed.

This weekend I plan on continuing on my stereo install and replacing the front passenger caliper that leaked out while sitting.

Here's a pic of my spaghetti mess, this stuff has been in my closet for a long time so I have been re acquainting myself on how it all hooks back up, looking up manuals ect.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Here's a pic of my spaghetti mess, this stuff has been in my closet for a long time so I have been re acquainting myself on how it all hooks back up, looking up manuals etc.

I can relate to that!! Eventually the light bulb goes back on though.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

I can relate to that!! Eventually the light bulb goes back on though.

Yea its coming back to me, but this new system is also requiring better power leads ect, lots more work than I had originally wanted to do.

While I'm at it here can you verify that this grey wire coming out of the harness close to the key switch ( as in 3" from it ) might attach to this grey wire coming from my column?

[swamp rat]

So I figured I'd better have a closer look at the head unit being as I needed to change the RCA outs for the new system, pulled the rear set out, then the front, when I got off my back and stood up I noticed a little round red dounut on the carpet, closer inspection showed the connector pulled right out of the head unit rear right RCA. Part of the bad sound problem? I'm sure it didn't help.


Decided to remove the head unit at that point, upon removal I found the ground wire had been severed, I still for the life of me cant figure this one out, it didn't reach the gas or break pedal, the only thing close is the heater controls.. But it is what it is.. part of the problem...


After removal of the head unit I looked at that Custom Autosound speaker I installed about 5 years ago, covered in grinding particles, I do believe someone on this forum warned me about this right Vic??? Well at least I can say I was not happy with the sound quality to begin with. Out it came as well, but not without leaving 1/2 of the speakers cardboard surround and fine mesh stuck to the under side of the dash.


So I did the destruction, went up town and bought he new power cable and a few connectors, got the system almost wired up, the the head unit on the floor as well, I'm going to at least see if it will work out of the front channel before I fork out money on another unit witch would probably be a Retrosound unit.

Not too sure if the new front speakers I bought a while back will fit above the head unit, the tweeter sticks above the mounting surface a smidge over 1/4" so I may take the easy way out and drill out a couple new holes in the rear speaker corner brackets instead.

[swamp rat]

Have you ever bought an expensive part to use down the road then you can’t find it when the time comes? I have spent the last 2 hours looking for it with no luck yet, a nice original tac dash. Had it in one of my spare rooms then had to move it out of there about 6 months ago, talk about frustration! I was hoping to install it now but......

Oh the stereo system is operational, only needed one set of RCA outs from the head unit, both front and rear have the same wattage so it’s usable, everything is routed and secured with zip ties, I don’t think I need to worry about mounting the front speakers in the corner brackets, least not yet

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Have you ever bought an expensive part to use down the road then you can’t find it when the time comes? I have spent the last 2 hours looking for it with no luck yet, a nice original tac dash. Had it in one of my spare rooms then had to move it out of there about 6 months ago, talk about frustration! I was hoping to install it now but......

That has happened to me with expensive and inexpensive parts. I hope you find it soon - that's not something you want to buy twice. Good luck in your search. I can totally relate.

[swamp rat]

Still can’t find my elusive tach dash!

[NONHOG]

Glad to see that you are working on it. Good luck on the tach dash. I still can't find my BBC M/T valve covers. Been years since I have seen them. Must have grew feet and walked away.

[swamp rat]

So now I have my seat in the truck, the full thickness foam seat sits me higher and a bit further forward than the old seat, I like the sit higth, plenty of head room but I could sure use a little more room between me and the steering wheel, anybody got any tips, advice or places to let look and read about moving the column forward?? I can gain about 1.5” inside, not sure about the outside?

Sorry bout the pic, taken and my cellphone.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

... anybody got any tips, advice about moving the column forward?? I can gain about 1.5” inside, not sure about the outside.

If it's a stock column, there are a couple of ways to shorten the shaft. The easiest is to buy a Borgeson 3/4 DD coupler or U-joint($$) cut your shaft and remove the appropriate amount and put it back together with the coupler or joint. The cleanest way is to modify it where it collapses in the event of a crash. In the attached photo, there are two thru holes the factory used to create a plastic slip joint. If you remove the shaft from the column, drill out the two holes and press the two parts apart, you'll find a shallow groove about .050" by .500 wide around the 3/4 DD shaft IIRC. It will have the remains of the plastic retainer in it which will need to be cleaned out. Cut 1.5" off the end off the DD shaft and press the two pieces back together using RTV around the grooved areas. You can refill the original holes with Plast-Aid or JB Weld if you like, but the only reason to do so is cosmetic. Either way, the shaft still retains it's collapsible design.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

If it's a stock column, there are a couple of ways to shorten the shaft. The easiest is to buy a Borgeson 3/4 DD coupler or U-joint($$) cut your shaft and remove the appropriate amount and put it back together with the coupler or joint. The cleanest way is to modify it where it collapses in the event of a crash. In the attached photo, there are two thru holes the factory used to create a plastic slip joint. If you remove the shaft from the column, drill out the two holes and press the two parts apart, you'll find a shallow groove about .050" by .500 wide around the 3/4 DD shaft IIRC. It will have the remains of the plastic retainer in it which will need to be cleaned out. Cut 1.5" off the end off the DD shaft and press the two pieces back together using RTV around the grooved areas. You can refill the original holes with Plast-Aid or JB Weld if you like, but the only reason to do so is cosmetic. Either way, the shaft still retains it's collapsible design.

This is a pic under the dash its a stock tilt column that I bought from a guy here on this forum, he buys them, rebuilds them and powder coats them black. I only have about 3/4" of space between that thing and the firewall, I have no idea if its removable or what it does, plus I have a column shift automatic..

Its kinda looking like I will be going back to my Grant steering wheel or a starvation diet, i'm leaning towards the Grant.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

This is a pic under the dash its a stock tilt column that I bought from a guy here on this forum, he buys them, rebuilds them and powder coats them black. I only have about 3/4" of space between that thing and the firewall, I have no idea if its removable or what it does, plus I have a column shift automatic..

Its kinda looking like I will be going back to my Grant steering wheel or a starvation diet, i'm leaning towards the Grant.

It's used for the neutral safety feature and backup lights. A floor shift column doesn't have this switch which is instead mounted on the shifter. So a floor shift column could be shoved further down. The switch is removable, but you lose those functions. I'm not aware of any kits that would relocate it. So as you've already figured out, it's Jenny Craig or a steering wheel with less dish.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

It's used for the neutral safety feature and backup lights. A floor shift column doesn't have this switch which is instead mounted on the shifter. So a floor shift column could be shoved further down. The switch is removable, but you lose those functions. I'm not aware of any kits that would relocate it. So as you've already figured out, it's Jenny Craig or a steering wheel with less dish.

LOL! Go figure :/

I’ll look more after work but do you know if there is a wire connection on that little unit? I’m still trying to find the home of the grey wire coming out of my trucks wire harness.

Do you recall a plug on the back of the dash bezel that had what I think was a fiber optic lead hooked to it, it’s a white socket with a thin steel mount on it to attach said fiber optic lead? Can you inlighten me on what it was for? I was thinking the back light on the gear selector but my new tilt column only has electrical wires.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

LOL! Go figure :/

I’ll look more after work but do you know if there is a wire connection on that little unit? I’m still trying to find the home of the grey wire coming out of my trucks wire harness.

Do you recall a plug on the back of the dash bezel that had what I think was a fiber optic lead hooked to it, it’s a white socket with a thin steel mount on it to attach said fiber optic lead? Can you enlighten me on what it was for? I was thinking the back light on the gear selector but my new tilt column only has electrical wires.

Can't speak to the grey wire... it might be B+ for the dash lights, but I could be wrong. That's what it is on my Painless diagram but don't know if it's the same as the factory color. Column wiring shown below and no grey wires listed.

Typically the fiber optic cable was routed to the ash tray as a light source instead of a bulb.

[First c10]

Hey Mike the gray wire you speak about I think is the wire that supplied power to the ancient fiber optic that provided light to the automatic shift window on the steering column. I think most dash lights are supplied by gray wires. Like to the dash/instrument panel, and AC/Heater control background lights.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey Mike the gray wire you speak about I think is the wire that supplied power to the ancient fiber optic that provided light to the automatic shift window on the steering column. I think most dash lights are supplied by gray wires. Like to the dash/instrument panel, and AC/Heater control background lights.

Thanks Vic and c10;

Well I have this plug, I remember the fiber optic lead slid through the hole in the metal bracket, through the hole in the plastic, but I sure don’t know what ever happened to the fiber optic lead, on the other hand my new column came with a grey electrical wire not a fiber optic lead, if the guy installed a light bulb it’s an easy work around.

Update: Took a multimeter and checked the wire on the column, continuity to ground. Then checked my correspondence with the guy I got the column from, he said it plugs into the fuse panel, pretty obvious, plugged it into the light circuit and it lights up fine.

New problem, My right turn indicator on the dash bezel lights up with the lights on, Ground issue? it didn't do it when I took the bezel out....

After I got the seat in the truck I fired up the engine and discovered that I have feedback droning through the subs, I can’t remove the seat by myself so I used a couple motorcycle tie downs strung from the roof gutter to the adjuster base and raised the seat enough to move some wires around and rotated the Audio Control crossover to further isolate the wires, if that don’t work then I may need professional advice, main power on passenger side of hump, RCA on driver side of hump, 6x9 speaker wires run under subs, front speaker wires run in passenger side door channel but are not used.

Early July..... Summer time..

[swamp rat]

How did I put a thumbs down on my last post?? LOL!

Slow day today, but I did drag out my old Grant steering wheel and new mount kit, the screws were a bit rusty so I took them all out cleaned them up and a fresh coat of black rust converter, then cleaned up the wheel it self with some wax and back to black.

[swamp rat]

I stand corrected....again, not a new steering wheel mount kit at all, the fiber disk had damage from a previous attempt at using it, probably 15 or more years ago, totally forgot about it. Plus after searching I could not locate the horn button, so I got on line and ordered both.


Grabbed a test light and checked the grey wire coming out of the stock harness , absolutely not hot until the running or headlights are switched on, so I hooked the column shift indicator light to it, so unless I find out that wire is used somewhere else then that's where it will stay.

Finally got around to swapping out that leaking caliper, I hooked up the replacement using the banjo and 2 copper washers that were included in the box and I still had a pretty bad leak, tried to tighten more with no luck, was also afraid that I may twist that banjo bolt in half if I went any tighter. cleaned up the brake hose fitting of its surface rust and checked it over for any hairline cracks, nothing, got a second new set of copper washers and had the same result, both sets came with a banjo bolt kit. Then I dug into my endless supply of junk I keep around and came up with a new set of Yamaha WR250 crank drain plug washers, thinner but very close to the same diameter, this time I could actually feel the washers getting squished and it sealed right up Yamaha makes some quality stuff. Had my wife do a little pedal work while I purged the air from the system, and I just blead that one side for now but I have a pretty good pedal, I was fortunate that the reservoir never went dry.

[swamp rat]

Naturally I order the horn button and mount kit through Grant, and a week later I get the infamous Back ordered email reply.. Well truth is its been pretty darned hot and my truck and cover takes full brunt of the sun so I don't mind letting it sit for a while.

I did take the time to search more and I found my tac dash bezel, relieved to find it.

I also dug out my Aries step bars that were buried, hope to spend a couple early weekend mornings getting them mounted soon, unless I'm asked to work the weekend...

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Naturally I order the horn button and mount kit through Grant, and a week later I get the infamous Back ordered email reply.. Well truth is its been pretty darned hot and my truck and cover takes full brunt of the sun so I don't mind letting it sit for a while.

I did take the time to search more and I found my tac dash bezel, relieved to find it.

I also dug out my Aries step bars that were buried, hope to spend a couple early weekend mornings getting them mounted soon, unless I'm asked to work the weekend...

Glad you found the Bezel! We knew it had to be somewhere. I'm curious, was it somewhere easy that you should have looked sooner, or was it buried in a deep, dark place?

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by DD1

Glad you found the Bezel! We knew it had to be somewhere. I'm curious, was it somewhere easy that you should have looked sooner, or was it buried in a deep, dark place?

Buried......

[swamp rat]

I’m reading the instructions for my used grant wheel mount kit, it states if my part looks like this picture then I need to remove the stock spring and plunger. Am I to assume I need to bend the brass tabs and remove the brass piece off the back side to get the plunger and spring out?? I’m a bit concerned about the tabs breaking and rendering the part useless.