08-31-2017, 01:54 PM | #1351 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
They are just really big models, right? Looks like some nice parts!
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08-31-2017, 03:13 PM | #1352 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
They sure are. Much heavier & expensive though.....
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09-01-2017, 12:24 AM | #1353 | |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
Don't forget more durable, and useable, and um, yeah... I'm out of good reasons for spending all of this time and money on this old thing...
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09-01-2017, 12:36 AM | #1354 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
More mild progress as I trimmed the width of the 'rails to fit the notches. Still some more trimming to go before they are ready to drill, but man do they look sweet! ~4 more inches of drop from my already pretty extreme 8" static drop ought to do nicely
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09-01-2017, 01:11 AM | #1355 | |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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09-01-2017, 07:37 AM | #1356 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Looks great Chris!
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09-01-2017, 09:29 AM | #1357 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
I like it!
Since you have the tape measure out, what is the measurement from the top of the notch to the top of the original frame rail?
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09-01-2017, 07:40 PM | #1358 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Oh, yeah, that!
Thanks buddy! Should be about 6", I'll verify
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09-01-2017, 07:52 PM | #1359 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Yup, about 6 3/16" right now, which should be closer to 6" once it's all snugged down. This is the 'touring' notch; the 'extreme' is a few inches taller, but I'm not sure by how much.
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09-01-2017, 11:15 PM | #1360 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
That would be about perfect for my other truck since I've already raised the bed floor 6.5".
The frame under it turned out not like I wanted it to, so I really want to start over on that one once the Blazer is finished.
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Steven "If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers R.I.P. Oscar R.I.P. Ratchet 1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner 1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck" 1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer" 2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar" 2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB" 2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy" Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Shop Build |
09-02-2017, 10:33 AM | #1361 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Would even leave you a little room for air fittings How's that Blazer coming along?
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09-02-2017, 12:53 PM | #1362 | |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
The Blazer is fighting me every step of the way. Of course, I'm trying to make sure everything is PERFECT, like you do, so some things I've had to do multiple times before I was happy with it. I have conceded to the fact that I will get the air ride and Accuair done before Cruisin' the Coast, but will have to hold off on getting the rear axle narrowed until this winter. That means no 20" gassers until then. It'll still look good with the 17" slots for now though. On another note, I have a Kore3 brake setup F/R for a 2nd gen Camaro (GM TS 14" hybrid front and 10/12 bolt 13" Z51 rear) that is just laying around. You used a GM TS setup from Kore3 and bolted it up directly to a C10 LD spindle correct? If so, I may replace my drop spindles and the Blazer get bigger brakes when the 20's go on this winter.
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Steven "If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers R.I.P. Oscar R.I.P. Ratchet 1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner 1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck" 1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer" 2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar" 2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB" 2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy" Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Shop Build |
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09-02-2017, 09:18 PM | #1363 | |||
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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09-02-2017, 09:29 PM | #1364 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Speaking of things that take longer than intended, I got the framerails trimmed for final notch fit, then primed/painted the bare metal and proceeded to drill a BOATLOAD of 7/16" holes to attach the radius notches and bridge. I used an old trick of dropping a 1/4" nut in the holes to center my pilot--worked out great!
Looks like not a lot of progress, but it's all final installed and torqued, and fits like butta. It's time now to remove the offending sections of framerail getting in the way of super-static lowness
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09-02-2017, 09:32 PM | #1365 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Never thought of doing that while drilling. Excellent.
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09-02-2017, 09:46 PM | #1366 | ||
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Those notches look great in there, I love watching your builds come together. You seem way more organized than me.
No build thread, I haven't touched it since I got the Blazer, except to move it around the shop. I'm seriously contemplating using a C6 manual trans-axle with one of Dobbertin Performance's cradles when I get back on the truck. Quote:
Quote:
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Steven "If dogs don't go to heaven, when I die I want to go wherever they went." -- Will Rogers R.I.P. Oscar R.I.P. Ratchet 1967 Pontiac GTO - Dad was the Original Owner 1970 Chevy 2wd SWB "Oscar's Truck" 1970 Chevy 2wd Blazer "Ratchet's Blazer" 2013 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab Duramax/Allison Z71 LTZ "Brown Sugar" 2017 Chevy Suburban "BDB" 2020 Chevy Blazer Premier "Foxy" Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Shop Build |
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09-03-2017, 10:06 AM | #1367 | ||
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Feel free to use it; pretty sure it's a trick I learned here somewhere. I think when I saw it, they were using it to center punch, but ain't nobody got time fo' dat
Quote:
Quote:
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09-03-2017, 10:38 AM | #1368 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
sweet
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09-03-2017, 09:17 PM | #1369 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Thanks! I'm really liking the quality and ease of installation of these porterbuilt pieces, plus they just look BA!
Took the plunge today and removed a big ol' chunk of framerail Time to figure out fuel tank mounting, fuel/brake line plumbing, and hang the axle.
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09-04-2017, 10:22 PM | #1370 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Hung the TAXM, then slung the axle back underneath. She's square and centered at ride height and almost ready to re-meet mother earth.
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09-04-2017, 10:26 PM | #1371 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
I like these two pics at mock-up ride height. The axle now resides where the framerails used to--she's gonna be low
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09-04-2017, 10:29 PM | #1372 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Looks good!
I like the fact that you still have the hitch bolted up!
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09-04-2017, 10:39 PM | #1373 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Thanks, I needed a rear crossmember; the PB tubular is $100--this one is already paid for . Probably too low to actually tow anything--maybe it will help protect the tank
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09-05-2017, 10:58 AM | #1374 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
just turn the drop hitch upside down, then it would be a raised hitch... Looks good though!
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09-05-2017, 11:38 AM | #1375 |
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
Looks awesome Chris, can't wait to see the ride height when's it's back on the ground.
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