1967 Chevy CST aka "the loud truck"

[67chevy1series]

you are exaclty right! although in my personal opinion the 61-65 1st 1/2 have a grille thats just a little to ugly.. lol the last half of 65 (which is what my crew cab is) they did some really good things to help the look of the trucks they fixed the wheel base and made the bed a little more proportioned, they brought out the "pie plate" grille and they made a wider tailgate with actual tailgate handle. so im actually lucky to end up getting the year that i did plus i was kinda hoping for something without the year 67 this time lol and as for the truck i made a build thread in the alternate tinkerings. the truck has no axles and the old 318/4spd has been in the rain without a carb or hood for at least 10 years so im pretty sure its seized. just going to yank the engine and trans out.







also forgot to mention i have anoter project... a mini bike
lol anyways heres some pics of the dodge

[Ol Blue K20]

That truck will be quite the project Rick. The 70 grill would look nice in there...

[67chevy1series]

Yeah it's gonna be a big project indeed

[67chevy1series]

Hey guys got a question with a smallblock engine in a 1/2ton 2wd frame in the v8 engine stands do you have to lift the engine or unbolt it to get the oil pan gasket out? I need to replace my gasket and I'm wondering if there's enough room between the crossmember and the crank to take the pan out?

[67chevy1series]

Man this can't be such a huge task that nobody wants to even talk about it?

[Ol Blue K20]

I've never did it in a truck but my chevelle needed to lift the engine up a bit

[67chevy1series]

Hmm oh much room is there on a chevelle between the oil pan and the crossmember? I'll measure the 67 and see if I have less room or not

[Ol Blue K20]

I'll look when I get to work, but from memory about 2 inches

[Ol Blue K20]

Ok Rick the chevelle/elkies have about 2" of clearance. I've been able to get the pans out of them by lifting the motor before. A bit of a pita but not bad

[67chevy1series]

Does anyone know if the tru ram exhaust manifolds from speedway motors will fit in a 2wd c10? I'm wondering if they will clear the crossmember?

[67chevy1series]

Well the 67 is running rough on idle while in gear... I have replaced both inline fuel filters as of yesterday, I checked my spark plugs there all gapped and connected the wires are good and not messed up the distributors good. There's no vacuum lines that are cracked broken or disconnected and when I put the 327 in last April? (Think it was April) I had put a brand new fuel pump on so fuel pump is almost a year old. And the sending unit is new and not clogged. So I'm thinking out if all that it could be the fuel pump.. Going to out another fuel pump in to see if it stops/changes the in gear idle.....


On a better note: this April I'm going to get a new timing chain, comp cam, GM 1972 16" steel rims, new head, intake, valve cover, timing chain cover, carburetor (those are the gaskets) and while I'm at it I'm gonna do an oil change and then the new fuelie heads and oil pan gasket will go on. Also going to buy the 700r TV cable bracket from bow tie overdrives so I can put the 700r in, An when I get the 16" steelers I'm gonna go get tires for them and that wil be my big plans for the truck for the first half of the year.

[Ol Blue K20]

Rick, did you check for vac leak under carb and brake booster? You might check compression in cylinders too. I can't see fuel pump causing rough idle unless it's having problems at rpm too.

[67chevy1series]

Ok so I replaced the gasket for the carb/intake and it runs even worse! I'm thinking the gasket is gonna need to be replaced again with something that fits a bit better and I'm starting to think my idle jets may be clogged or dirty how would I clean those? If I'm not mistaken the idle jets are the 2 screws in front of the edelbrock correct? So to clean them do I just back them out and clean the hole out and then reassemble?

[Ol Blue K20]

I have very seldom had the jets clog up but I would take the carb top off then the adjustment screws (count the turns) and would clean it out with carb cleaner (I use berrymens b12). But first I would warm the engine and spray the carb cleaner and look for vac leaks. Recheck under carb too.

[67chevy1series]

Well I checked for vaccum leaks and there weren't any but I did have a big leak under the carb so I bought gasket paper and made a gasket for the intake and I also took the idle jets out and cleaned them and I put it back together and the truck runs way better butt it still just barely off from how it was I need to change intakes this intake is the Holley street dominator and i can see now that it's made for the skinny width Holley carbs and it doesn't really like my fat width edelbrock so I'm gonna get a edelbrock intake for the truck

[67chevy1series]

Well guys looking for some input about my horn issue... I put all the horn guts under the horn cap in correctly and hooked up the horn and then nothing.. For awhile I've had the horn disconnected because the horn guts were I wrong causing it to honk completely at random while steering/driving lol so I finally took the CST cap off and fixed the tabs so I could put it on and off with no worries and now put it all together and now nothing the relay doesn't even click.. So I put a relay that if know works for sure and it still didn't even click... So I tested the horn and it works as well and so now I know I'm not getting power to the green wire but I don't understand how im not I cleaned all the connections and put it back together and it still does the same thing..

[Ol Blue K20]

Sounds obvious but you did check the fuse right?

[67chevy1series]

There isn't a fuse for the horn? There's only wipers, ac or heater, backup lights, cluster feed, panel lights, tail lights, radio, hazards, glove box and spot lamp and all of those things work fine so I'm assuming the horn isn't tied into one of those, otherwise something else would not work either

[Ol Blue K20]

Good point, but it is in one of those circuits. So I would trace the relay power wire and make sure it's hooked up and if it is start looking for a break in it. Also have you tried jumping power to the relay to make sure it all works?

[2manyprojects]

If the relay has power on the red wire. I would go back and check under your horn button . That contact grounds the relay and make it close (click). Pull the cap off and try grounding the contact if the horn blows your problem is in that area. You can also try loosening and tightening the 3 screws on the spring plate slightly. I've had them too tight before and the horn would not work.

[67chevy1series]

That's a good idea i think I'm gonna go out and try it

[67chevy1series]

Alright so progress for the 67: got a new tailgate and a new intake
Intake is a edelbrock performer it's a 4bbl and it's dual plane the intake on my truck right now just doesn't do the truck with my truck and it's doesn't compliment my setup and last but not least it has some port and threads that aren't so good... So now I'm going to fix that! What I have
1 intake
2 felpro intake gasket set
3 felpro rear main seal
4 felpro 1 piece oil pan gasket
5 carburetor stud kit
6 carburetor gasket
7 bowtie overdrives 700r TV cable bracket (waiting on shipping)
8 x4 71 16" steel rims (waiting on shipping)
9 chevrolet script valve covers (need to mod back for a breather like delmo)

So just need to get the engine all set up with it's new parts along with a oil change and then I can work on installing the 700r trans and somewhere in that put the GM71 16" steel rims with new tires on

[Ol Blue K20]

Are you going going to pull the motor?

[67chevy1series]

I'll probably just lift the engine and then slid that pan out and replace the rear main and then the oil pan gasket then I'll do the intake and stuff up there and somewhere I between all this all get some tires for the 16" steelies and put those on

[67chevy1series]

Well the 16" steelies are gonna be shipped next week just need to get oil and a oil filter and I'll start with the progress