'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Zoomin]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Cap with what? Welded caps? I do have a spool for welding Al. Just need to pick up a 2nd tank...

You don't need to weld it. Just make sure the tube is full and make sure you have something on there to keep the sand from getting out.

I like how you mark each terminal. Good idea.
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[Mal]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Cap with what? Welded caps? I do have a spool for welding Al. Just need to pick up a 2nd tank...

We used bungs, tape them on as well. It was important that there was no air so you need to tap away at it as you fill with sand to condense the sand.
I still have some bits that were bent this way, I will take some pic's and post them up tomorrow.

Keep up the good work. I would love to get another SV and stick a 3.8l V6 Ecotec engine in it.

Cheers Mal

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Mal

We used bungs, tape them on as well. It was important that there was no air so you need to tap away at it as you fill with sand to condense the sand.
I still have some bits that were bent this way, I will take some pic's and post them up tomorrow.

Keep up the good work. I would love to get another SV and stick a 3.8l V6 Ecotec engine in it.

Cheers Mal

I looked at the V6 options long and hard. There are some great options out there. Thanks for the tips!

[jeff967]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Cap with what? Welded caps? I do have a spool for welding Al. Just need to pick up a 2nd tank...

duct tape works fine

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by jeff967

duct tape works fine

Duct tape ALWAYS works!

[hgs_notes]

The ball valve may work, but I think it will probably feel like full on at about 1/3 open. Depends on the amount of total flow you have. Part way open on that valve may be enough to allow all the flow the system puts out. A small orifice (washer) in the valve inlet might help control it better. Another option is a smaller ball valve. You'll just have to try it out and see what you get for results.

[71swb4x4]

Everything looks awesome, as usual.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Cool idea on the tube beader. These ones from earls seem like a simple idea that would work but you have to buy one for every size tube. If its just one size you need then ok, but they would add up fast.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...rs-Individual/

That's cheating (they look nice tho)

Originally Posted by Zoomin

Now that is totally cool! Making your own tool like that.

I'm not sure where I heard this, or what material it's used on, but the myth has it that if use fill the tube with sand it won't collapse.
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Yeah, I've read that too. Ice as well. The sticks I have coming have just a slightly thicker wall so hopefully I'll get it on the first one. If not I'm using frozen quick-sand on the 2nd

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

The ball valve may work, but I think it will probably feel like full on at about 1/3 open. Depends on the amount of total flow you have. Part way open on that valve may be enough to allow all the flow the system puts out. A small orifice (washer) in the valve inlet might help control it better. Another option is a smaller ball valve. You'll just have to try it out and see what you get for results.

You may be right, but if I can control the temp at all I'll be happy. With no way to completely shut off the vent I don't want heated wind flowing through there in the summer.

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Everything looks awesome, as usual.

Thanks brotha!

[Frizzle Fry]

What else have I been up to..?

I decided not to run the capillary oil pressure gauge (oil line running into the car ). So in order to run an electric oil pressure gauge I've started this process. There's probably a Smiths gauge out there that would bolt right in, but what fun would that be?

Bought a Stewart Warner 0-100PSI gauge off eBay.


It has the correct 90* sweep to use my gauge face-plate


Researched the proper sending unit specs for the gauge (240-33ohms for 0-100PSI) and found this VDO unit (don't mind the exhaust wrap. It's for a future installment).


S2000's don't have an oil pressure gauge, just and ID10T light. So a T-fitting allows me to run both:


Integration of the SW gauge into the Sunbeam dash:

Upper right location in the pic is the existing oil gauge (had already attempted to use a water temp gauge with oil pressure face-plate but could not find a sender with the correct range or span)


SW gauge size reference:




Guts pulled and already clearanced as needed:


Where it's going:


Face-plate also required a little mod:


Zero-Stop post added:






Work in progress...


Tapping for stand-offs:


...and that's as far as I have pics of. I'm a little further along and it looks like it will work out very nicely.

[Frizzle Fry]

Oil Pressure gauge complete. Wired it up to the sender to set zero before buttoning it up:

[hgs_notes]

Slick!

[Frizzle Fry]

ECU Wiring:

[mcbassin]

Awesome work frizzle!
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[Frizzle Fry]

Cool, I'll try the sand if I kink another one.
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[Pop's C-10]

You're a wiring master..*bows

[69gmcc10]

This build never disappoints! Your level of ingenuity is astonishingly awesome!

"Simply en fuego!"

[thor]

Just getting caught up on the build for this past week. I love how you stabbed some new guts into the old cluster for the oil pressure gauge. And the OCD side of me likes that you labelled all the wiring for the ECU; now I can sleep well at night.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by Pop's C-10

You're a wiring master..*bows

Thanks. You should see some of the stuff I do at work! But I can't show it... :/

Originally Posted by jeff967

duct tape works fine

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Duct tape ALWAYS works!

Originally Posted by Mal

Sorry Frizzel, I could not find what I thought I had. So no pic.

No problem. I'm headed out there now. We'll see how it goes!

Originally Posted by 69gmcc10

This build never disappoints! Your level of ingenuity is astonishingly awesome!

"Simply en fuego!"

You can say that after it all works as designed

Originally Posted by thor

Just getting caught up on the build for this past week. I love how you stabbed some new guts into the old cluster for the oil pressure gauge. And the OCD side of me likes that you labelled all the wiring for the ECU; now I can sleep well at night.

I know when I come back to it a week/month/year later the labels will be appreciated!

[screamin_c10]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Thanks. You should see some of the stuff I do at work! But I can't show it... :/

I have and continue to be amazed...

[Frizzle Fry]

Sand+Thicker-Walls+Annealed-all-at-once+Taking-my-time=


Pics of the process to come...

[ksucatz]

As usual, very nice!!!

[jeff967]

duct tape?

[Frizzle Fry]

I annealed the whole stick in one go this time. Went until the soap turned meduim-to-dark brown, not black like the last one:


Filled with used 60/80 garnet from bly blasting cabinet:


Tapped it on the floor and on the side with a rubber coated hammer handle to settle/pack it in. This was the 2nd iteration of that. First time it went down to maybe 3/8" from heaping (was capped on top too).


Into the bender. Plenty of lithium grease on the tube and followers! I went VERY slowly with it this time, which is easy to do with the hydraulic conversion. Just let it pump about a piston cycle/second.


Took about 15min to go 90* You can see the rubber caps I used. I have a bin of assorted sizes. I keep them whenever we get new parts/equipment at work.



Two bends, no kinks! The outer radius is even better (no flatness) than the previous "good" bend.








Next I mod'ed the bead tool a little more to prevent indentations on the OD:


Worked like a champ:






...and the end result (already shown)


Back to the shop!

[watahyahknow]

would be a nice way to make a huge diameter exaust system on turbocars as whell usually the turn right after the turbine needs to be tight due to the space behind it

[mcbassin]

Super write up and work on the tubing! Always learning here.
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