Kabwe's aka Bam's build

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Chevette

For the "frame to the caliper" I bought "Stop-Tech" braided stainless lines. I will use good quality nickel/alloy from the master to the braided. I figure with the limited amount that I will drive the truck, nickel lines will outlast me and after I'm dead and gone, I could give a rats behind what happens to my replacement.

I was talking fuel lines.lol I ran steel brake lines to the braided stainless steel caliper lines.

My fuel lines are 3/8 braided stainless steel for the supply and return that is on the corvette regulator/filter to another 3/8 braided stainless steel supply line that goes over all the bends and turns and then I have a straight shot that allowed me to use a 3/8 hardline that runs the length of the frame. I wanted to run that hardline over all the bends and turns but as you know 3/8 stainless steel tubing is a mother to bend and it was just too many bends so I went with a flexible stainless steel line to the hardline.

I totally agree that steel or nickle lines with out last all of us.lol

[bowt1ed]

Hey BAM, got any recommendations on fittings for the braided to s/s hard lines? I'm at that stage on mine (actually haven't done anything since receiving the hard lines a few months back - I know, I know..) and ready to kick it up again. Thanks, Jim

[Chevette]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

I was talking fuel lines.lol I ran steel brake lines to the braided stainless steel caliper lines.

My fuel lines are 3/8 braided stainless steel for the supply and return that is on the corvette regulator/filter to another 3/8 braided stainless steel supply line that goes over all the bends and turns and then I have a straight shot that allowed me to use a 3/8 hardline that runs the length of the frame. I wanted to run that hardline over all the bends and turns but as you know 3/8 stainless steel tubing is a mother to bend and it was just too many bends so I went with a flexible stainless steel line to the hardline.

I totally agree that steel or nickle lines with outlast all of us.lol

Perhaps I should go for an overdue eye exam. Apparently I don't see so good. Fuel lines are a ways off for me.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Chevette

Perhaps I should go for an overdue eye exam. Apparently I don't see so good. Fuel lines are a ways off for me.

LOL. I was wondering.lol But its okay we all have brain farts at one time or another.lol I know I do.

Originally Posted by bowt1ed

Hey BAM, got any recommendations on fittings for the braided to s/s hard lines? I'm at that stage on mine (actually haven't done anything since receiving the hard lines a few months back - I know, I know..) and ready to kick it up again. Thanks, Jim

I used female 6-an fittings on my braided hoses (I had them custom made cheap locally). I then flared my hardline and used a 6-an sleeve and nut and used a 6-an male union. Here are the parts from Jegs.

Tube sleeves

Tube Nuts


What you do is install the sleeve and nut and then flare you tubing with a 37 degree flaring tool (the tool must be rated for stainless if you are using stainless. That some strong stuff). The sleeve slide up to the flare and the the nut over the sleeve.

Union fitting


By the way here is my flaring tool it works great and the flares are perfect.

[ZR2RICK]

Nice to see you back at it, say can you tell me what made you decide to use a parallel 4 link? I'm trying to decide on weather to just use blocks and air over leafs like "58 GMC" or a triangulated ,parallel, or wishbone type link set up, my chief concern is maintaining fender clearance ( i have 1/2" )through 5-6" of travel since I intend to bag the rear also, and I know the parallel set up allows some lateral movement but can't seem to find any info on how much?

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

By the way here is my flaring tool it works great and the flares are perfect.

Hey I have been looking for one of those flaring tool thing-a-mug-jigs to use when im flaring my mufflers and intake manifold. Can I borrow it?
LMAO!!!!!

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by ZR2RICK

Nice to see you back at it, say can you tell me what made you decide to use a parallel 4 link? I'm trying to decide on weather to just use blocks and air over leafs like "58 GMC" or a triangulated ,parallel, or wishbone type link set up, my chief concern is maintaining fender clearance ( i have 1/2" )through 5-6" of travel since I intend to bag the rear also, and I know the parallel set up allows some lateral movement but can't seem to find any info on how much?

The number one reason I went to a four link was to avoid wheel hop. Now if I were doing it again I would have went with a triangular link system. I just like them better. With the parallel setup you have to use a panhard bar to avoid lateral movement.

Originally Posted by VDOG

Hey I have been looking for one of those flaring tool thing-a-mug-jigs to use when im flaring my mufflers and intake manifold. Can I borrow it?
LMAO!!!!!

You are to be ignored.lol Anybody that thinks they can flare a muffler with that tool needs to seek psychiatric help.lol

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by kabwe

you are to be ignored.lol anybody that thinks they can flare a muffler with that tool needs to seek psychiatric help.lol

lol!

[Kabwe]

I did not get much done over the holidays but luckily I was able to get the stainless steel fuel lines installed. I still need to install the internal fuel pump that recent came in the mail. Honey dos are killing me.

Anyway here you go

[Kim57]

Looking good Bam.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi Bam. A belated Merry Chrstmas and a Happy New Year.

Why stainless? Any trouble with splitting, bending it? I've read horror stories on other threads about this. What brand/type bender are you using?

Edit: Oops, NEVERMIND! Helps if you go back and read the author's prior posts, huh? lol.

[VDOG]

Those are some nice neat lines your running. Now one thing I notice your prop valve, did not know you could run them upside down.

[Kabwe]

Geez Vdog,

It must be hard on you being wrong all the time, I feel for you man.lol There are in and out ports that are clearly labelled and its flowing in the correct direction.

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Geez Vdog,

It must be hard on you being wrong all the time, I feel for you man.lol There are in and out ports that are clearly labelled and its flowing in the correct direction.

Man when you cut you cut deep. LOL

I guess it was more of seeing them mounted right side up.

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by VDOG

Man when you cut you cut deep. LOL

I guess it was more of seeing them mounted right side up.

Well maybe you need to get out more. Parkwood also mounted his like this.


If it stinks everywhere you go, well maybe its just you.lol

I feel for you man, sometimes a mind can be a terrible thing.lol

All jokes aside, how is your build coming along? Have you gotten anything done recently?

[VDOG]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Well maybe you need to get out more. Parkwood also mounted his like this.


All jokes aside, how is your build coming along? Have you gotten anything done recently?

I managed to get to pick your part for the half price sale on New Years day and found a GMC grille. Other than that, with the weather being off and on and it sitting on the ground I have not had much luck doing anything else.
This weekend im going to get the suspension parts from CPP.
Thats it.

[pbetts]

Hi Kabwe and fellow enthusiasts. Congratulations on your beloved truck. I'm envious of your talent. Your build inspired me to sign up after I read most of this enormous thread. Anyway, I've got an old 56 small window longbed with a rust problem. I sanded it down with velcro style sanding pads using my drill about 12 years ago (before I sold it) and sprayed regular spray can primer on some spots and etching primer on the hood (yellow tint) but the rust is back. Now I've re-acquired the truck and am looking to get serious about the body. My questions are this: what did you use to sand down the body? What kind of primer/paint do you use to seal it? Do you recommend products like POR 15 to treat it? It's mostly just surface rust.

[ratty 46]

Surly you're not going to rin that paint are you??? Those paint jobs take years to develope.

Just say no to POR15!!

Repower & drive it like it is.

R46

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by pbetts

Hi Kabwe and fellow enthusiasts. Congratulations on your beloved truck. I'm envious of your talent. Your build inspired me to sign up after I read most of this enormous thread. Anyway, I've got an old 56 small window longbed with a rust problem. I sanded it down with velcro style sanding pads using my drill about 12 years ago (before I sold it) and sprayed regular spray can primer on some spots and etching primer on the hood (yellow tint) but the rust is back. Now I've re-acquired the truck and am looking to get serious about the body. My questions are this: what did you use to sand down the body? What kind of primer/paint do you use to seal it? Do you recommend products like POR 15 to treat it? It's mostly just surface rust.

I think that is a great patina finish!

[Kabwe]

If you want to keep the rust I'm not the one to ask its not for me or what I do. As far as what I use to get rid of rust. I had my cab media blasted (be picky if you go this route and only work with guys experienced in blasting cars), but all other items I removed the rust myself with a DA sander and some phosphoric acid for the hard to remove stuff.

What I use to protect the metal? I like 2k epoxy primer. Do you have an air compressor? If you do you can buy a cheap Harbor Freight spray gun to to shoot the primer.

As far as Por15, I know guys who swear by it, but as for me I don't use it. I remove all traces of rust that is within my reach.

Build your truck the way you want and don't worry about what others would do. If anybody tells you to do something to your truck that you personally don't want to do tell them to step off. Its your time and money and you are the only one that has to like it. I would never tell someone what to do with their cars but I will share any information I have that could help them accomplish their goals. Their goals not mine. So feel free to ask me and if I have the answer I will be happy to share.

By the way nice truck you have there and welcome to the site.

[docrock]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

If you want to keep the rust I'm not the one to ask its not for me or what I do. As far as what I use to get rid of rust. I had my cab media blasted (be picky if you go this route and only work with guys experienced in blasting cars), but all other items I removed the rust myself with a DA sander and some phosphoric acid for the hard to remove stuff.

What I use to protect the metal? I like 2k epoxy primer. Do you have an air compressor? If you do you can buy a cheap Harbor Freight spray gun to to shoot the primer.

As far as Por15, I know guys who swear by it, but as for me I don't use it. I remove all traces of rust that is within my reach.

Build your truck the way you want and don't worry about what others would do. If anybody tells you to do something to your truck that you personally don't want to do tell them to step off. Its your time and money and you are the only one that has to like it. I would never tell someone what to do with their cars but I will share any information I have that could help them accomplish their goals. Their goals not mine. So feel free to ask me and if I have the answer I will be happy to share.

By the way nice truck you have there and welcome to the site.

Bam, you are the king of appropriate responses and political correctness. Going for a political career?
BTW nice work on your truck

[Kabwe]

I actually think I'm not being politically correct. Lately, it seems political correctness is for people to think just because they like something everyone should like it.

I went to car show this weekend and heard a lot of that. Its my petpeeve it really is. Be glad for anyone building anything and keeping this hobby alive.

[xpickup]

Kabwe, very good advise on building your truck the way you want it and not the way everybody else would. Because you will never please everyone. It keeps them all different.

Shannon

[dhaymaker]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

I actually think I'm not being politically correct. It seems politically correctness is for people to think just because they like something everyone should like it.

I went to car show this weekend and heard a lot of that. Its my petpeeve it really is. Be glad for anyone building anything and keeping this hobby alive.

I don't know about "politically correct", it's just one of those terms people like to use (such as "patina")! But, I do like the fact you speak your mind, while seeming to want to avoid stepping on toes or stepping on others' opinions. That's a good thing, these days!

As to your truck, I've been following your build and it's really nice to see another example of someone paying a lot of attention to detail, doing things the way they want, and doing things correctly! Just my opinion!! don

[Indian113]

One thing that stands out in your build is you try to think things thru and do it right the First time. I've gotten a lot of really good ideas from following your build. Thanks for the help!