What did you do to your truck today part III

[earl84]

Yep, I know it should be wipers. That's why it drives me crazy. It's one thing if someone misspells something in their personal correspondence, but for a business to do it on the products they sell? Makes me wonder about the attention to detail on the engineering and build of the product itself.

[schpeen]

What harm could a mistake in the wiring possibly cause LOL?

[OldChevy61]

Got the rear back together after cleaning and painting. New 3 in lower springs, new trailing arm and pan hard bushings,newer 12 bolt. Shocks will come later. Now I can move it and get the cab off.

[Palf70Step]

Looks good!

[Boedean1981]

So purdy. Looking great!

[LVPhotos]

Wires your under dash here's another fuse! Ya?

[62 Barnfind]

Painted my oil canister.

[Grizz1963]

Well, a lovely day it has been.

Up early, loads of "Honey do's" around the house, then cut grass, cut some plants back, followed by clearing in front of the garage, and unpacking the caravan shed to get to some of my glass blasting media, which typically was stashed under the beds, under many parts.

Moved the bike up to the house, pushed the truck up,the drive, and got the compressor started, connected to the blasting cabinet I bought last year, filled it with about 35kg of crushed glass, the. Got started with parts of the heater unit, mirror stalks, followed by various other bits.

Inbetween I had a few problems, including the humidity causing the nozzle to clog up, the compressor feed pipe springing a small leak and the viewing window getting progressively more invisible.

By the end I really could not see what I was doing.

Any advice on how to retain visibility, that is not just the dust, but dulling of the plastic as well...... How do you keep visibility up to something sensible??

Ready to start.



First piece, getting it ready for Ian Brown to Pinstripe over winter when he settles down.







Also did these little guys from the tailgate while I was at it.



All primered...........

At this point one of the cans of red oxide primer stopped working halfway through and I will be wasting a half a can of red oxide....... Really gets to me.



At this time, Mickey from next door came around to take a look.

He seemed pretty happy with what I was doing and suggested I could carry on.




So I carried on and eventually finished all the pieces.

The heater parts are all Satin Black, and the rest, including the engine mounts and their nuts n bolts were made Gloss Black.

Next job is to enlarge the bottom hole by about 4mm all the way round to fit the Mazda MX5 blower and controls to the heater unit.



After packing everything away, I cleaned up, then took Nicola out for a wedding anniversary dinner in town.

Tomorrow it is off to the Hotrod show, hopefully to meet up with some friends, buy some stuff, trade some stuff and generally have a good day in the sun.

Hope to get really lucky and find a radiator too.

[jayoldschool]

New rad hoses and heater hoses. Had to trim the bottom hose many times to get it to fit properly. Didn't want to cut too much and leave it short! Got it running and took a drive.

[Turtleman]

Persistence pays off Grizz... I'd look into getting a moister collector on your compressor I also have a small exhaust fan with a collector near the top back of my blast cabinet, low volume but keeps the dust low

[Boedean1981]

God I wish I had that Grizz. Instead I am sanding down a few parts and trying to get them ready to prime for next weekend. Oh what fun to see rust and dirt fall to the floor and to slowly make some progress in the right direction. Keep up the fantastic work fellas!

[BR3W CITY]

Put on my new heads and titanium valvetrain goodies. Also decided to test fit some Headmann swap headers. I think they offer more potential when put this way

[TJ's Chevy]

This morning.

[62 Barnfind]

Made a bracket for my oil canister for my new intake.

[Grizz1963]

Today at the NSRA I collected four litres of Dinitrol Cavity Wax for the truck that I had bought via Rods n Sods, thanks to Andy for bringing it down from Norfolk.



Walking around the traders stands, Martin with his ever alert eagle eyes clocked a pair of flywheel covers which we both needed.

£15.00 later and I now have a cover in chrome.



Today Martin and I also got to meet up with Ian Brown, owner of the Tennessee Honey C10 Stepside.

Ian had given me a lower A-Arm to replace mine which has been damaged sometime in the past, already cleaned up and painted.

Thanks Ian !!



Secondly, Ian had also brought along both of his trucks old front hubs, all neatly wrapped up.

Thanks again mate.



So again, not a lot of work done, but truck progress.

[cheessee]

Finally found a factory bench for my 63 at the street rod nationals yesterday

Not bad for 100 bucks no rips or tares and no rust

[UK62LW]

Finished off installing electric fan and shroud.

Original fan shroud was sourced a couple of years ago to help the engine-driven fan, but offering it up revealed that the chassis-swap plus larger-than-stock aluminium radiator meant it was unusable in its original state. Fast-forward a couple of years and decided it really needed to be sorted, so after various recommendations I bought a used 16" Volvo 740/760 electric fan off eBay, complete with box of relay tricks to aid the install, for £40 delivered ($60).

Fan is not flat faced so a simple cradle was bent up from flat bar and mounted to the truck's vertical supports. The shroud was then offered up and found to cover the rad best laid on it's side - the unfortunate consequence being the mounting tabs now visible at the top but these will be sorted in time. Holes then needed cutting for the pipes and various reliefs were cut into the now bottom edge to clear. Top radiator bracket had to me moved over to suit.

As the engine fan would no longer fit, I thought the two-speed Volvo fan would be ideal, as I could use the low speed on constant, with the high-speed kicking in on the thermo switch if things got too hot. Ideally a two-stage switch would allow low speed to come on once the mechanical thermostat opened but maybe revisit that in time.

As for the wiring, the relay box (at an angle for clearance) made things nice and simple but I only realised after running the trigger wires into the cab that all they need to do is earth, not be powered! Oh well. What this means for now is it's not ignition controlled but I'll sort that in time, as it can run on for a while if hot as the thermo sender just sits in the top hose. Thermo dial can be seen just below the fused relays for the headlight harness. Low speed is linked to the switch on the dash, mounted in one of the radio holes. 30 amp supply and a good earth and she fired right up and it really does shift some air!

Please excuse the state of the engine bay - plans afoot to pull it all out for detailing, including hiding the wiring and fitting parts acquired to date; low mount for the alternator, original air-cleaner adapted for 4bbl, script valve covers, ram horns, etc, etc. I like my stuff to look in-period where possible, so the shroud's primary use is now to hide the plastic fan!

[LT1 Burb]

I rebuilt my heater and my power brake booster.

[Grizz1963]

MODS, PLEASE REMOVE IF TOO MUCH.

EDIT: Grizz1963, you have a thread with all this info already. This becomes a double post so to keep this thread on track, I removed this content and place a link to your thread.

MX5 heater fan mod - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679049

[mjh1965]

Just a note to add to the post . The MK 1 Mazda heater is the same as the Mk2 and MK2.5 the only difference is the switch on the mk1 is a single unit so easier to hide .i will try and take a picture of the Mk1 switch over the next few days .
_____________

[Grizz1963]

Every now and then I see ideas that just blow my mind, they will not be for everyone, but I like them.

On Sunday, Andy who I bought the Dinitrol cavity wax from came in his International, and one of the things I saw were his wheel nuts.

Now as some of you may recall, I will be fitting some Rallye wheels and white walls later.

However, it would need 24 new chrome wheel nuts, as my wheels have been on and off many times before I bought the truck two years ago, and many since, so the nuts look like this......



This has to be one of the simplest, cheapest and most genius ways of dealing with old wheel nuts.

Cut down shotgun shells.

My truck will be wearing them, and I do not care if many people copy what I saw on Andy's truck, but I will be doing it too.

I already have an order in for a load from a friend who is a groundsman on a large estate.



Inspiration, sometimes need not come from your own mind.

Thanks Andy.

[dwcardfan]

Well I didn't work on my 65 but I helped a friend install the hood on his 82.

[forestb]

When you clean up the frame for that do you go down to bear mettle or just to original paint and scuf that up and what do you do with the mettle with surface rust and how do you get into all the tight corners? Looks vary nice by the way.

Originally Posted by OldChevy61

Got the rear back together after cleaning and painting. New 3 in lower springs, new trailing arm and pan hard bushings,newer 12 bolt. Shocks will come later. Now I can move it and get the cab off.

[62 Barnfind]

Went to the machine shop to help with putting my engine together. Notice the original gray paint.

[65 C20]

Grizz1963.
To help with visability on your sand blaster window.
If you tape a thin plastic sheet on the inside of your window it will take the abuse of the blasting media.
When visability gets bad remove and replace with a new one.
It saves your original window.