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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wichita Falls, Texas
Posts: 459
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Re: Make it handle
I am in the early build stages of an 82 2wd blazer. I have rebuilt the front end with new balljoints and have installed Energy Suspension control arm bushings. I have also moved the lower arm forward 3/4". I have lowered it 5" in the front with 3" spindles and springs and rear I flipped. I haven't decided on sway bar sizes yet but plan both front and rear bars. I am working on the steering currently. I was thinking about installing a fast ratio box on it. What ratio would you recommend?
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#2 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: washington
Posts: 4,178
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![]() Quote:
Ron we need to start bugging the market for steering boxes Posted via Mobile Device
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377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511 |
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#3 |
A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,920
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Re: Make it handle
Don't count out RedHead steering gears. Do a little searching around the 'net on AGR- they're not always glowing reviews. Not saying its not a good product, but possibly inconsistent quality
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-Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 57
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Re: Make it handle
My $.02 on the adjustable bag mounts is it would be overkill. (Not that I'm not a fan of overkill!)
+/- ~1.5" from the bag's normal height (no pressure) is where the best ride will be. This depends on the bag, pressure, mount angle, etc. and I've also found no matter where I've put the sweet spot, I'm always driving just on the very bottom of that, lol I would think air bag load rates and pressures you want to run would be more important.......
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riding... just riding....... |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oakland. ca
Posts: 1
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Re: Make it handle
Does anybody know how to get a 72c10 with trailing arms to hook up.
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#6 |
A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,920
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Re: Make it handle
Try the drag racing section of the forum: "trucks haulin' more than hay". Those guys have it down to a science
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-Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Richmond,Va
Posts: 2,934
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Re: Make it handle
Rob, I'm sure you may have missed my last post since you were out running circles around the competition. I'll keep it short and I'll figure out the rest. How do you prefer to treat heated suspension components? We have talked about heating the steering arms to reshape them for correct bump steer. Do you prefer to let them dry naturally or quench them? I know too little about metallurgy but I think a wet rag is quicker than natural cooling but not as bad as using another method that would cool them too fast and make them brittle. Is there another method of cooling I could use? I know its all about reorganizing the molecules but I'm not sure of a homegrown method that is doable.
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Nick Carter 1967 C10 Short bed Fleetside Project Cheap Thrills! 2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments Easiest Alignment Ever! |
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#8 |
56 - autocross
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Camarillo, Ca
Posts: 1,121
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Re: Make it handle
Rob:
How do u suggest adjusting a swaybar? Preload or no preload? Should the end links be adjustable (right hand heim and left hand heim) without unbolting either end, or can they just be a male heim and female heim together which would not let you adjust it unless you take one of the bolts out, shorten or lengthen it, and then rebolting. Should the swaybar arm be parallel to the ground, or is it OK to be pointed up or down somewhat? Any suggestion on pillow blocks? |
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#9 |
56 - autocross
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Camarillo, Ca
Posts: 1,121
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Re: Make it handle
Rob - Forgot:
Link perpendicular to the arm, parallel to the ground????? |
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#10 | |
Senior Member
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Location: Dandridge, Tn. USA
Posts: 2,226
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
Arms should be between parallel to the suspension link travel and the ground. General rules With everything connected, pull the coil-overs and check full suspension travel for binding.
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#11 | |
Senior Member
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Location: Dandridge, Tn. USA
Posts: 2,226
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
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#12 | |
Senior Member
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Location: Dandridge, Tn. USA
Posts: 2,226
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 639
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Re: Make it handle
Question for you Rob... would it be of any benefit to weld the seam that is on top of the rear trailing arms for a c10 1/2 ton? I know ECE sells the reinforcement steel plates that would be a better solution.. but would welding that seam yield any positive results or would it be a waste of time? Thanks
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#14 |
Grandpa in the rustmobile...
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN
Posts: 11,422
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Re: Make it handle
I welded and bolted mine (not a full seam but in spots) after Mine split in 2 On the ends...
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
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#15 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 639
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
This top seam right here:
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1970 Chevy C-10 Stepside My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=528167 ![]() |
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#16 |
I'm just glad to be here!
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Longview, TX
Posts: 4,788
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Re: Make it handle
dmw319 - it will make them stronger since the two parts are only spot welded together from the factory. I would weld about an inch long, skip a space and weld about an inch long the entire length of the arm. Do the top AND the bottom of the arm. Before welding, make sure to get all the paint and junk out of the seam. I will be doing mine once I get my son's truck rolling on it wheels and I have room to take mine apart again...
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#17 |
Senior Member
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Location: Dandridge, Tn. USA
Posts: 2,226
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Re: Make it handle
I am in favor of 'capping', 'plating', and 'boxing' the ends of the arms. They do need a little help here. I also think it's OK to add some weld, like Aggie suggested to the seams. But, I'm not sure it's such a good idea to box or plate the entire arm,- for ride and handling. For drag racing - yes. Show truck - yes. Canyon carver -no. The arm needs to 'twist' to let the suspension articulate freely. We want to control movement with springs, shocks, sway bars, not with 'binding' or suspension 'friction'.
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#18 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 3,728
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
I know there is a kit that bolts a plate to the bottom to stiffen the stock arms, but based on your input, Rob, this might not be a good idea from a touring performance standpoint.
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#19 | |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Anderson SC
Posts: 3,885
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=387475 Posted via Mobile Device
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#20 | |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 3,728
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Re: Make it handle
Quote:
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New Project: 1966 LWB C20 Plans: 1/2 ton conversion Dropmember front Dropmember rear Corvette discs Restored raised bed http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4295210 |
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#21 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 639
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Re: Make it handle
awesome thanks for your suggestions guys! my truck is just a weekend driver, occasional non-pro show, occasional haul of mulch, etc. So my idea was to just beefen them up just a little and keep them from splitting down the road.
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Rising Star, Tx
Posts: 249
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Re: Make it handle
Loving the thread guys. Keep it up.
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NAME: TRAVIS TRUCK: BRUISER 71 C/10 SWB 3.5/5" drop 4.11 GEARS. F.A.S.T. BBC 408 496hp/479ft/lb JAKES 4L80E TCI TCU PTC 10.5" 2800 STALL My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...30#post5779530 |
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Rising Star, Tx
Posts: 249
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Re: Make it handle
I just bought a cpp rear trailing arm coil spring kit w/3" springs, but it's to convert from leaf springs. I got their rear sway bar. I also got their a-arms and 2.5" drop spindles w/bilstien shocks. I hope this will help out a bunch. I want to run 18" rims. I like the JD wheels ridler 18x8's or 18x9.5. I want to run the same size on front and rear. I just wish I could figure out what back spacing to run.
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NAME: TRAVIS TRUCK: BRUISER 71 C/10 SWB 3.5/5" drop 4.11 GEARS. F.A.S.T. BBC 408 496hp/479ft/lb JAKES 4L80E TCI TCU PTC 10.5" 2800 STALL My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...30#post5779530 |
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#24 |
A guy with a truck
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,920
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Re: Make it handle
It's tough to run the same BS front and rear on these trucks due to the difference in track width front/rear. Did you get the new 'school/old school' spindles? That would help get them closer. And you could probably get away with ~4 to 5" of backspacing all the way around, depending on your wheel width and the look you're going for, ie tucked or flush...
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-Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 249
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Re: Make it handle
I installed the Nolimit wideride which is going to allow me to run 20×10 , same bs, with 285x40x20 on all four.
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