Project Vitamin C-10

[neto]

Hey Alan I took your advice and made sure the lift has a stop on it. It got up pretty high and no wobble. By the way your truck looks great!

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Got the lift to work and got it running.

Looks like you decided to use it at work.

[70 Suburban]

Im useing the stock v8 mounts from my 283. I dont have to dimble the header on the drivers side but it has about .010 clearance on the perch. But my truck is a stanadard and all the linkage clears. They are not pretty but ill get some pics for you tonight when i get home. Btw congrats on your money making lift

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by protrash64

......and an inadvertent soccer mom van update ....looks like its getting there.

It finally went to paint today. That job kicked my butt.

Originally Posted by neto

Hey Alan I took your advice and made sure the lift has a stop on it. It got up pretty high and no wobble. By the way your truck looks great!

Thanks Neto, it makes life alot easier doesn't it?

Originally Posted by Strodder

Looks like you decided to use it at work.

Yeah for now. finally got a car on it today. I had to go yesterday and get a fitting for the pump for the hose to hook up. Evidently there might be a restrictor that goes in the line cause the car comes down too fast. Even if your careful with the lever. I'm waiting on the manual to get here so I can see the IPB.

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

Im useing the stock v8 mounts from my 283. I dont have to dimble the header on the drivers side but it has about .010 clearance on the perch. But my truck is a stanadard and all the linkage clears. They are not pretty but ill get some pics for you tonight when i get home. Btw congrats on your money making lift

I've got the CPP mounts and they stick up higher than the factory ones, so there might be more interferrance. Thanks for the info.

Sdailey ordered some parts from Jegs and I jumped in on the order and got some fittings and hose for the power steering. I'll get some pics soon. Going to bed early tonight and rest.

[ruffrida2005]

your going to bed at 8:50 you panzy. haha, keep up the good work Alan ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

your going to bed at 8:50 you panzy. haha, keep up the good work Alan ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

Got some good rest, feeling better.

Here's a couple shots of the fittings for the power steering. Does anyone know if there is an adapter that can be brazed onto the return line at the pump for a -6 fitting?

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Got some good rest, feeling better.

Here's a couple shots of the fittings for the power steering. Does anyone know if there is an adapter that can be brazed onto the return line at the pump for a -6 fitting?

I don't know if there is a special fitting or not, but you could probably do it with the right size NPT to -6 steel fitting.....one that will fit over the return tube.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Got some good rest, feeling better.

Here's a couple shots of the fittings for the power steering. Does anyone know if there is an adapter that can be brazed onto the return line at the pump for a -6 fitting?

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't know if there is a special fitting or not, but you could probably do it with the right size NPT to -6 steel fitting.....one that will fit over the return tube.

They make a fitting that is a compression nut/ferrel on one end and the other end is a -6 JIC steel fitting. I know that Parker fittings for hydraulics should have one. Does the return line on the pump have a bead near the end of the tube? If it does, it will need to be cut off and the compression fitting would need a straight section of tube long enought for the ferrel and nut to seat correctly. Here is the link to the fitting:
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...20STEEL&Wtky=# Part number 6 XHBU-S is for 3/8" tube to -6 straight fittings, they should also be available in 90 and 45 degree fittings. Hope this helps. Here are the local distributors to your area (within 60 miles):http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...odifier=&Wtky= You have to put in your zip code...

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Got some good rest, feeling better.

Glad to see you're back at it, Alan.

[sdailey]

Alan we deal directly with Parker and their fittings here at work. Let me know if you need something.

[jgh64pkup]

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

your going to bed at 8:50 you panzy. haha, keep up the good work Alan ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

wouldnt it have been 9:50 in GA

why dont you just run hoses

[ruffrida2005]

yeah it would have, I didn't take in the time change. But glad to see your back at it Alan.I think we were all sad that not much got posted yesterday, I know i look forward to it. I know it makes me feel better to see progress on everyones truck when i'm having a hard time on my back half!

[jgh64pkup]

hey alan what motor mounts are those

[70 Suburban]

YOU KNOW ALAN I WAS THINKING. ARE YOUR PARCHES DIFFERENT OF IS IS JUST THE MOUNTS. ALSO i DONT THINK IT WOULD BE A PROBLEM TO RAISE THE ENGINE UP. INFACT THATS WHAT I WANT TO DO WITH THESE HEADERS FOR GROUND CLEARANCE.

[joe231]

^ makes me laugh every time

[70 Suburban]

lol sorry cant help it....Life in shop managment is tuff some times.

[joe231]

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't know if there is a special fitting or not, but you could probably do it with the right size NPT to -6 steel fitting.....one that will fit over the return tube.

Thanks Captain, if what Aggie mentioned doesn't work I might try what you mentioned.

Originally Posted by aggie91

They make a fitting that is a compression nut/ferrel on one end and the other end is a -6 JIC steel fitting. I know that Parker fittings for hydraulics should have one. Does the return line on the pump have a bead near the end of the tube? If it does, it will need to be cut off and the compression fitting would need a straight section of tube long enought for the ferrel and nut to seat correctly. Here is the link to the fitting:
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...20STEEL&Wtky=# Part number 6 XHBU-S is for 3/8" tube to -6 straight fittings, they should also be available in 90 and 45 degree fittings. Hope this helps. Here are the local distributors to your area (within 60 miles):http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...odifier=&Wtky= You have to put in your zip code...

Thanks Aggie, I will try one of those. I will let ya'll know what happens.

Originally Posted by MacAttack

Glad to see you're back at it, Alan.

Thanks Mac. I thought i was better, I guess it's just a summer time cold. You scared me with that pic of a guy riding a fish with a G string in your thread.

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

why dont you just run hoses

I'm running steel braided nylon hoses.

Originally Posted by ruffrida2005

yeah it would have, I didn't take in the time change. But glad to see your back at it Alan.I think we were all sad that not much got posted yesterday, I know i look forward to it. I know it makes me feel better to see progress on everyones truck when i'm having a hard time on my back half!

Originally Posted by jgh64pkup

hey alan what motor mounts are those

I orderd them for a 69 camaro.

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

YOU KNOW ALAN I WAS THINKING. ARE YOUR PARCHES DIFFERENT OF IS IS JUST THE MOUNTS. ALSO i DONT THINK IT WOULD BE A PROBLEM TO RAISE THE ENGINE UP. INFACT THATS WHAT I WANT TO DO WITH THESE HEADERS FOR GROUND CLEARANCE.

I need a smiley with fingers in it's ears. The perches are CPP and they sit taller than factory. I'm not ready to raise my engine up just yet. But it's a thought.

Originally Posted by joe231

^ makes me laugh every time

Originally Posted by 70 Suburban

lol sorry cant help it....Life in shop managment is tuff some times.

Habits are hard to break.

[jgh64pkup]

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic;3380148[COLOR="blue"

The perches are CPP and they sit taller than factory. [/COLOR]

thats what i was looking for
thanks for the info

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by sdailey

Alan we deal directly with Parker and their fittings here at work. Let me know if you need something.

Thanks Shannon, for ordering and getting the 6XHBU-SS fitting (3 pieces on left in picture), I believe it will work. But if it goes like the rest of my night.............well read on.



I thought OK, I get to do something to my truck. I had a couple little things to do thinking it would be easy..........think again.

I thought about putting the fitting on first and said nah, lets put the door handles in since I got my lock cylinder yesterday from Tim Christian.

It's just a simple lock cylinder why can't I get it too work. Here is a pic



If I remember right you have to put key in and push and turn to lock it, right? The first washer that I put on with the slot in the middle will not allow it to turn. It's got some dimples (keyways) stamped in it that is preventing it to turn. Lock cyl turns fine with it removed. Here is a pic of the washer installed. I'm thinking of just filing the edge keyway down so it will turn.



Here are the next pieces I installed then that is followed up with a snap ring.



Complete. I did assyemble it right, right? I didn't have a pic to assy it by. It just looks like this is the way it goes.



Since I was having trouble with that I figured I could get the passenger side handle in. Wrong. of all things that I thought of test fitting, I didn't think of the handles. Now I have some grinding to do.



So these little task turned in to a PITA. It's just part of it, gotta keep moving.

[joe231]

wow man that sucks....I will pull out our original driver's door handle tomorrow and take a look, if no one has solved the mystery by then.....

[1964C10]

Alan, Don't grind yet. I did my door handles as well about a year ago and faced the same thing. I took them to my local locksmith to get them matched to my ignition/glove box, only charged me $20. I am trying to remember what I did, I am trying to remember.......argggggg

[1964C10]

Btw you dont have to push in to lock it. Just turn to lock it and then you can't push it in any longer.

[1964C10]

I cant remember, I cant remember...sorry Alan. I do know that you can assemble and test it without putting it in the door, it should lock and not allow you to push the button. Hope any of this helps :P

[Dinos63]

ALAN I HAVE BEEN BUSY AND NOT MUCH TIME TO WORK ON MY STUFF LATELY BUT I ALWAYS CHECK YOUR PROGRESS ,SUCH NICE WORK GREAT JOB AL