The Blue Goose

[oldblue1968chevy]

Starts better the starter crapped out like 2 days after the show I guess..

Starts a little better, but still takes awhile to start sometimes (wirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr vrroooom).

Sounds better while starting and seems like the new starter is stronger?

Been gone for the past few days with the gf and some friends riding atvs in east TN pictures and some good wreck videos later

[68GMCCustom]

so whats your initial timing at?

[oldblue1968chevy]

I'll try'n check it sometime, im exhausted from the past few days..uh going home soon for a nap..

[oldblue1968chevy]

Around 18* BTDC with vac. adv plugged at idle

Like it sits is how it runs best (starts and has power) I can spin the dizzy so it runs/has more power, but wont start. Or I can make it start good but wont run good..

Its got the stock springs back in it. I talked to the speed/machine shop they said they usually delete the vac. advance or something so it runs better? They said for $20 they'll do it, seemed sorta wierd. I wanna leave that alone, the guy that built/did the machien work I trust, but he is so far (about 1 hr) ive quit driving the blue truck back and forth to school (33 miles with gas $4.05 93 octane).

I dunno..lol

[oldblue1968chevy]

What should I do?...bring it down to around 8*

I can borrow a adj. timing light to get my total timing if needed...may borrow a vac guage also..

[68GMCCustom]

disconnect and plug the vacuum advance and set your base timing around 8* or so. Then plug the vacuum advance back in and see what you got at idle. Can you check for total* advance? Is you vac adv. adjustable?

oh...and you'll get varying opinions on the subject, here's mine:
racing = no vacuum advance needed
street = vacuum advance for a more efficient, cooling running motor

[oldblue1968chevy]

vacumn can isnt adjustable

I can borrow a gun thats adjustable..

I'll set my base @ 8* and report back on how it starts/runs

I wanna run the vac. adv.

[oldblue1968chevy]

I did install some better plug wires (old ones were burnt in spots etc etc)

I think it runs smoother (but could be my imagination) still takes forever to 'hit' sometimes though..timing I guess. Maybe I can get it..

And I got my hitch finished bolting in, now I need to get some pretty paint on it, any ideas for colors?

[68c20lwb]

loving your build dude! your a lot further then i am. although your going after more looks while im going after more drivetrain first. i hope to do some rattle can'in this summer!

[oldblue1968chevy]

I went over my suspension etc too

rebuilt frontend with discs swaybar trailing arm bushings etc wish I didnt skimp on gaskets for my motor, it would be nice and shiny still lol

[68c20lwb]

haha, i know how that goes. that mys 350! all i id to suspension is trailing arm mounts on my axle. just ordered new axle seals and planning on shocks and suspension bushings this summer as well

[oldblue1968chevy]

cool! you need to make a build thread!! i looked but didnt find one..

[68c20lwb]

alright, sweet. ive wanted to make one so ill start soon!

[67chevy1series]

way cool pics john! nice work!

[oldblue1968chevy]

Set initial timing at 10* btdc letting it sit aminute, the PO of the danged fan shroud trimmed it, well the fan caught my pinky at 800rpm hurt like heck!!! carnage picture later i think im putting my stock springs back ima be doin some hauling etc and the jeep springs are stupid because theyere so thin

i lost my cell phone too i think it fell out the floor holes...dang 200 doller phone please excuse my typing my pinky is uselss and I dont want to try to re learn its throbbing!!!! safety first uhh

I had to adv it to get the 8* if that makes a difference

Oh, and im going by the stock timing slot on the balancer...(heard you need to verify this I never did get it)

[68GMCCustom]

I think the balancer mark can be off a little...but should be in the ballpark?
So is it 8* or 10*? and does it start easier?

[oldblue1968chevy]

It starts the same, Sometimes it starts right up and sometimes it starts like its not getting gas you have to pimp the pedel etc..?

[oldblue1968chevy]

What should it be set at (initial)

Ill double check..

Should I re set the valves (0 lash)?

Brad penn oil change/wix filter comming soon, along with 1 piece oil pan gasket and new rear main seal..

[68GMCCustom]

uh......forgot what your combo is, its not in your sig

[VA72C10]

Is the harder starting after it's been sitting or just random?

I've had a lot of older vehicles and always pump the pedal a couple times when starting unless I just cut it off....

[oldblue1968chevy]

I can cut it off and sometimes ill have to pump the pedel sometimes i wont

Its just annoying and embarrassing, wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

VROOOM

Put my stock rear springs back in, i like the low look but I couldnt haul anything so it was worthless to have a truck bed,and on these crummy side roads it bottomed out in potholes

355 summit 'vortec' heads 279 thumper cam I have to run 93 gas because the comp. ratio pretty much stock everything else (kb pistons balanced bottom end) rpm edelbrock intake eddy 600 1406 carberator

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Put my stock rear springs back in, i like the low look but I couldnt haul anything so it was worthless to have a truck bed,and on these crummy side roads it bottomed out in potholes

Does this mean you are "offically done" recommending "Jeep" springs to lower the rear of coil spring 60-72 trucks?
I want someone to finally admit that these springs just don't work.
Ha.

[oldblue1968chevy]

lol lolife

they work if you never haul anything, and have really really nice roads

I guess im saving my nickels for some heavy duty 4" dropped springs lol

[lolife99]

If you can't haul anything,... "they don't work".
I think Hart Rod had some used 4" springs,...

[87 chevy silverado]

they do work...... for looks