How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

[GAc10boy]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Trying to decide what I’ll do with the firewall, as I plan to paint it while I’m doing the cowl panel. Might as well, right?

Few options I’m pondering are fully shaved (with ac lines where they currently reside), factory style “heater delete” panels (ac lines moved), or “ac delete” box, with lines coming through the hump. All are appealing, though I think shaved will be the cheapest and easiest while I’m already welding.

Thoughts?

The top pic looks the absolute best with an LS in my opinion. Fully shaved with relocated ac lines.

[knomadd]

This isn't a great pic of the area, but I went with a blend of full shave and keeping A/C lines in stock-ish location.

This was less headache than completely moving them out of site, but still work. Just another idea for you.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by GAc10boy

The top pic looks the absolute best with an LS in my opinion. Fully shaved with relocated ac lines.

Agreed, this is a great look!

Originally Posted by knomadd

This isn't a great pic of the area, but I went with a blend of full shave and keeping A/C lines in stock-ish location.

This was less headache than completely moving them out of site, but still work. Just another idea for you.

Dude, I think you may have just made up my mind. Super slick, but without crazy effort or expense.

[kiwikid]

we are killing more than we are saving

[rustytruck50]

??????

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by kiwikid

we are killing more than we are saving

So true on so many levels. The depth of this statement is unfathomable

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

??????

I’m with you

[gringoloco]

They always seem to come apart easier than they go back together. Ready for everything to be all clean do I don’t get so filthy while working on it...

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Trying to decide what I’ll do with the firewall, as I plan to paint it while I’m doing the cowl panel. Might as well, right?

Few options I’m pondering are fully shaved (with ac lines where they currently reside), factory style “heater delete” panels (ac lines moved), or “ac delete” box, with lines coming through the hump. All are appealing, though I think shaved will be the cheapest and easiest while I’m already welding.

Thoughts?

have to consider which hood hinges you are going to use at this point...billet aluminum or steel. fan motor gets in the way, if billet

great build so far

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

have to consider which hood hinges you are going to use at this point...billet aluminum or steel. fan motor gets in the way, if billet

great build so far

Thanks! I’ll be using the Porterbuilt cowl mounted hinges. No room for fender mounted hinges with the Hills Rod and Custom inner fenders. I am a little concerned about the ac delete box fitting between the tub and firewall, especially with a blower motor installed.

[gringoloco]

A lot of work that looks like not much happened. Continued stripping things from the firewall, then scrubbed, cleaned, sanded, prepped, and painted framerails. Ready to start hanging some PB parts

[lolife99]

Any plans to run the steel brake lines back to the firewall and behind the dropmember?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Any plans to run the steel brake lines back to the firewall and behind the dropmember?

Yes, definitely going back to the firewall from the m/c, then down. Not 100% sure what I’ll do with the prop valve. It was mounted 73-87 style before, on the front crossmember. I liked that it was hidden, but if I can keep everything behind the DM, even better

[67ChevyRedneck]

Your truck took all her clothes off!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Your truck took all her clothes off!

Yup, she got naked and it ain’t pretty, but we have a plan to remedy that

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Yes, definitely going back to the firewall from the m/c, then down. Not 100% sure what I’ll do with the prop valve. It was mounted 73-87 style before, on the front crossmember. I liked that it was hidden, but if I can keep everything behind the DM, even better

Mount the prop valve on the left hand frame rail under the cab, or ditch it and just run a Wilwood adjusble prop valve somewhere in the rear brake line.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by lolife99

...or ditch it and just run a Wilwood adjusble prop valve somewhere in the rear brake line.

Hm, hadn’t thought of this. Part added to ever-growing list...

[knomadd]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Mount the prop valve on the left hand frame rail under the cab, or ditch it and just run a Wilwood adjusble prop valve somewhere in the rear brake line.

Or... If you have deep pockets... Run the Baer Remaster with the undermounted prop valve. It's clean and not really noticeable.

[GAc10boy]

Originally Posted by knomadd

Or... If you have deep pockets... Run the Baer Remaster with the undermounted prop valve. It's clean and not really noticeable.

Now that is cool!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by knomadd

Or... If you have deep pockets... Run the Baer Remaster with the undermounted prop valve. It's clean and not really noticeable.

Originally Posted by GAc10boy

Now that is cool!

Too rich for my budget, but does provide ideas. Definitely cool

[gringoloco]

So, this happened today:

These PB parts go together like butta...

[Bennett68C10]

Awesome

[builtbyKane]

It does look incredible.

[SCOTI]

And just like that, done.

[Hart_Rod]

Suweeeettt!!!!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Awesome

Originally Posted by builtbyKane

It does look incredible.

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Suweeeettt!!!!

Thanks dudes! I can’t take much credit, this PB stuff is amazing. Zero mock-up before powder and zero issues at final assembly.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

And just like that, done.

Haha, wouldn’t that be nice. I think the hardest parts lie ahead...