Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[glock35ipsc]

LOL! Trailing arm conversion isn't in the budget until May at the earliest, still have brakes and A/C to finish up.

I don't need to buy much, but I will need to order some DOM tubing, threaded bungs, and a couple end links to build the panhard bar. I'll probably make a new TA cross member too, just 'cause.

[Driveway Dreams]

Let me finish your statement for you there Bob.
"I'll probably make a new TA cross member too, just 'cause"...I can.

[nlped]

^^^That's right!

[glock35ipsc]

That's how I roll......

[Driveway Dreams]

Umm Bob.....I think you've got something all up in your grill.

[glock35ipsc]

Hmmm, peanut butter. Thanks for the warning!

[Driveway Dreams]

Oh man I love this place!!!

[bluex]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

LOL! Trailing arm conversion isn't in the budget until May at the earliest, still have brakes and A/C to finish up.

I don't need to buy much, but I will need to order some DOM tubing, threaded bungs, and a couple end links to build the panhard bar. I'll probably make a new TA cross member too, just 'cause.

Ok then, I guess. I'll be watching since it will take me longer than that to save up the $ for the CPP kit (or porterbuilts?). I do have my arms now though.

[Thealien]

Another temp sender option.





I am actually going to use an adapter I had made and try this and swap the wire between them to see if one works better? I believe the water pump will end up working better because that is where they put the thermostat, I believe the adapters will be prone to having air in them? And I don't feel comfortable drilling the head on the vehicle, and the 72 and earlier ones are 1/2 NPT as opposed to your 3/8 NPT which makes it even harder to drill the head.

[Butcherboy]

Originally Posted by Thealien

Another temp sender option.





I am actually going to use an adapter I had made and try this and swap the wire between them to see if one works better? I believe the water pump will end up working better because that is where they put the thermostat, I believe the adapters will be prone to having air in them? And I don't feel comfortable drilling the head on the vehicle, and the 72 and earlier ones are 1/2 NPT as opposed to your 3/8 NPT which makes it even harder to drill the head.

Thealien, how will the Temp reading be on the pump? Wouldn't there be a variance between the w/p having coolant moving through it? Just my thoughts. I'm been looking at where my sender is gonna be too! Little scared like you to drill the head!

Hope you get a good reading!

[Thealien]

Where they are in the head their is coolant also, just reading it at a different place. If you can safely drill into the head it is probably a better location except as I stated my 72s senser is 1/2 NPT and I don't know if it will work if I drill in the same hole as the plug. I think I would have to make their 12mm hole the edge of mine adding to the difficulty. You guys with the 3/8 NPT senders have it a little easier. I do have an adapter made but I am not sure how well the coolant will get into the little hole of the adapter and will the flow keep it at the same temperature of the overall coolant? The only issue I see with putting it at the waterpump is will it restrict flow at all? I know a few others doing it this way with no problems. Hearing people say they have had the adapters leak, get broken I am looking for other options and thought I would share?

[glock35ipsc]

Shouldn't be any difference in drilling for the two sizes. The 3/8NPT will need a 19/32" bit (one bit above a 9/16") and the 1/2NPT will need a 23/32" bit (between an 11/16" and a 3/4" bit).

12mm is just under 1/2". Use some grease on the bit to hold the chips, and drill slow. There looks to be enough room for the larger sensor, maybe some possible interference with the manifold flange if anything:



FWIW, my temp gauge reads almost exactly (well, as near as can be compared with the analog gauge ) what the PCM sensor does via the scanner.

[79gmc5.3]

Hey Bob or anybody else that knows. I see that you are running a 3.42 rear end. Do we have to stick to the 73-87 years or can we use another year? For a total rear end swap. What models (K5 Blazer,Sub,LWB,SWB,etc.) were more common for this ratio?

[Thealien]

I was feeling around inside after removing the plug and it felt like there was a bump or? that had me concerned. Just showing another option with the water pump, sorry if I am stepping on anyones toes? Just trying to help. I would rather mess up a water pump than a head?

[79gmc5.3]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Shouldn't be any difference in drilling for the two sizes. The 3/8NPT will need a 19/32" bit (one bit above a 9/16") and the 1/2NPT will need a 23/32" bit (between an 11/16" and a 3/4" bit).

12mm is just under 1/2". Use some grease on the bit to hold the chips, and drill slow. There looks to be enough room for the larger sensor, maybe some possible interference with the manifold flange if anything:



FWIW, my temp gauge reads almost exactly (well, as near as can be compared with the analog gauge ) what the PCM sensor does via the scanner.

I already had a 12mm taped hole on the P/S. It had a plug in it, I just removed the plug and used a 12mm to 1/8 reducer. Is this right?

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Thealien

I was feeling around inside after removing the plug and it felt like there was a bump or? that had me concerned. Just showing another option with the water pump, sorry if I am stepping on anyones toes? Just trying to help. I would rather mess up a water pump than a head?

Stepping on toes?? Never! More info is better info!!

It seems fairly common to drill the 12mm hole to 3/8NPT, I just figured you could go a little bigger for 1/2NPT. I don't think I could get my little finger in that 12mm hole! I'll have to poke around in there before I start drilling. A friend has one of those optical scopes that can get into restricted places, I'll have to see if I can borrow it and check it out in there.

79gmc5.3 - Do you have the sensor installed already? The temp sensor from the truck should be 3/8NPT, which is larger than 1/8.

[fpjr0]

mannn mannn mannnn , I get in my truck to go for the first drive test after the new 5..3 power and I start the truck only to find out I didnt hook up the transmission linkage does one of you guys have a pic of how you guys connected it... thanks in advanced

[glock35ipsc]

Same as it was connected to the TH350. Use the "U" shaped piece off of the old trans. I didn't have to move anything on the frame, and I only had to tap one of the bends of the linkage that ran from the frame to the trans to make it move smoothly through all the gears.

Then I spent some time adjusting the linkage that runs up to the column to be sure it read correctly in all gears. I have heard A LOT of swappers say that they cannot force the shifter into 1st, but I can.

Congrats on almost going for your first drive!!

[79gmc5.3]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Stepping on toes?? Never! More info is better info!!

It seems fairly common to drill the 12mm hole to 3/8NPT, I just figured you could go a little bigger for 1/2NPT. I don't think I could get my little finger in that 12mm hole! I'll have to poke around in there before I start drilling. A friend has one of those optical scopes that can get into restricted places, I'll have to see if I can borrow it and check it out in there.

79gmc5.3 - Do you have the sensor installed already? The temp sensor from the truck should be 3/8NPT, which is larger than 1/8.

Yes I have Dakota Digital Gauges they have there own oil pressure and temp sensors. They have a 12mm version but I already had the 1/8 so I just got the reducer. Did you just drill out the 12mm hole that was already there?

[fpjr0]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Same as it was connected to the TH350. Use the "U" shaped piece off of the old trans. I didn't have to move anything on the frame, and I only had to tap one of the bends of the linkage that ran from the frame to the trans to make it move smoothly through all the gears.

Then I spent some time adjusting the linkage that runs up to the column to be sure it read correctly in all gears. I have heard A LOT of swappers say that they cannot force the shifter into 1st, but I can.

Congrats on almost going for your first drive!!

thats where the problem comes into place,, I dont have the U shaped piece,, kind of gave it away with the old 305... I brain storming right now see if i can use something else. thanks

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by 79gmc5.3

Yes I have Dakota Digital Gauges they have there own oil pressure and temp sensors. They have a 12mm version but I already had the 1/8 so I just got the reducer. Did you just drill out the 12mm hole that was already there?

Gotcha, cool! I am using an adapter that Mcbassin made for me. It's pretty much a duplicate of the S&P piece that I originally had. That one leaked at the head. This one is leaking between the adapter and sensor. So I'm just going to drill the 12mm hole in the head and install the sensor direct in the head.

Originally Posted by fpjr0

thats where the problem comes into place,, I dont have the U shaped piece,, kind of gave it away with the old 305... I brain storming right now see if i can use something else. thanks

Hit up some transmission shops and see if one of the techs might have one in a bottom tool box drawer. Especially look for some "off the main drag" old school shops. They probably have a box of them.

[STOCKISH]

I have the piece you are needing. I will dig it out of my parts bin if you want it. Just send me your address and cover the postage and it's yours. Let me know, just glad to help a fellow board member.

[nlped]

^^^ That's why I love this place!!!

[Driveway Dreams]

Awesome of you Josh! That is what the hobby is about, having friends that will help you out when they can. And this place is about making friends...all over the world even. up to you. And some imaginary rep points coming your way.

[79gmc5.3]

Man you guys stop, I'm getting all chocked up