Green Gus the 68 shortbed convert

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by Phill0406

Looking great Corey. Jealous of the wheels, always wanted to do a set like that.

Judging by the work you're doing on your truck, I'm pretty sure you could pull it off. I do really like the setup you are currently running, but your truck would look amazing on a set of big steelies. The guy I got my wheels from can do a 5 lug conversion for you, just sayin'

[hewittca]

Well, I've had to push back paint by one more week, so in the meantime I started on a few other things. I wasn't really happy with the alignment of the bed even after adjusting it for a second time, so I pulled the bed back to do it again (third time's a charm!). Since the second bed mounts for the longbed became the front bedmounts after I shortened the truck, apparently they weren't quite in the same position. So I pulled the bed back to modify these mounts so the bed would sit where it needs to. I used a string to make sure the bottom body line is now completely straight down the full length of the truck. I realize now that I never took a photo of this, but trust me it's straight!



After messing with the bed, I started working on preservation of the original paint. I tried several different techniques, some of which are popular approaches and some that I pieced together myself. I originally laid out a seven step process for restoring the original paint to a mirror shine. This process was CLR, clay, Meguiar's 7 conditioner, 1000 to 2000 grit wet, Meguiar's M105 Ultra Cut, Meguiar's M205 Ultra Finish, and finally wax. This process worked really well but was very tedious and time consuming. I was fine with the work required and it produced an amazing shine, but I realized I did not necessarily like the look of shiny patina. After some experimentation, I arrived at a revised (and much simpler) process that left a finish somewhere between matte and gloss. I combined my original process with a process outlined by member disturbinglykool here. The procedure I ended up using was CLR with scotchbrite, 2000 grit wet, buff by hand wet with #000 steel wool, and final clean with mineral spirits. The final result is a very smooth and clean surface with a dull shine, exactly like I wanted.





During the process of finishing off the cab, I did discover a paint oddity. On the backside of the cab, there appeared to be a dark blue paint under the green. I know GM used red oxide primer on the cab so this immediately stood out to me. Upon closer inspection, I realized that at some point someone primed the back of the cab and resprayed it with a matched dark green. In certain spots, I could see the matched green/dark primer/original green/oxide primer layering. I have no idea why this was done as the passenger cab corner is rusted through and does not appear to have ever been touched and I was slightly disappointed to discover this. Despite this, the match is very close and my truck is not completely original anymore anyway, so I suppose it isn't that big of a deal.



I hope that in my next update I can include the painting process and my approach to fauxtina on the bed to match the cab.

[preacher anthony]

Great job, really looks good. I'm still searching.

[warbird1]

Originally Posted by hewittca

Judging by the work you're doing on your truck, I'm pretty sure you could pull it off. I do really like the setup you are currently running, but your truck would look amazing on a set of big steelies. The guy I got my wheels from can do a 5 lug conversion for you, just sayin'

do you have this guys contact info? i would be VERY interested in a set of transits in 5 lug

[67ChevyRedneck]

It looks like some shiney metal was exposed on the fender/hood. Are you going to touch those up with black to match the primer, or just CLR it ever so often?

The bed being "off" would have bothered me too.

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

It looks like some shiney metal was exposed on the fender/hood. Are you going to touch those up with black to match the primer, or just CLR it ever so often?

Good question, and I don't know for sure. I first started experimenting with the paint about 6 months ago, and the exposed metal in those spots does start to get a slight orange haze to it after several months. If I hit it with the steel wool lightly it cleans right up, but of course that isn't a practical approach since each time I will lose more paint. I did try waxing over it and that helps, but it also shines up the paint which I didn't like. For the meantime I will probably just leave it, but I may cover it up with black primer to match. That is a good idea and I hadn't even considered that option until you mentioned it.

[67ChevyRedneck]

I wouldn't use primer, try to find a flat black paint to match. Most primers are porous and adsorb water. How many times have you seen an old project vehicle (or fender, door, ect) for sale with gray primer and covered in rust?

[rusty76]

Looks great. I like your approach.

[GR8-68]

The satin black wheel paint may be a good choice and it is very durable to

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

I wouldn't use primer, try to find a flat black paint to match. Most primers are porous and adsorb water. How many times have you seen an old project vehicle (or fender, door, ect) for sale with gray primer and covered in rust?

Originally Posted by GR8-68

The satin black wheel paint may be a good choice and it is very durable to

I guess I never really knew that about primer, but now that I think about it that makes sense. I wonder if the exposed original primer is also susceptible to this. I will have to look into that wheel paint, thanks for the tip Larry. Now the fun part will be masking off all the areas that need a bit of touchup.

[webberjames95]

most definetly my favorite build on this page. im doing the same big steel wheels on my truck when detroit steel comes out with 8 lug

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by webberjames95

most definetly my favorite build on this page. im doing the same big steel wheels on my truck when detroit steel comes out with 8 lug

Thank you! There's a guy that does 8 lug conversions on the GM Transit wheels that I have. He sells them for $1400 a set. They have quite a bit of backspace though, about 6.5". He can also have the backspacing changed, for an additional fee of course. If you want his contact info let me know.

[SCOTI]

I just got caught up on this one. Nice job w/the mods & maintaining the 'look'.

[hewittca]

Well, it seems every time I set a date for paint something derails it. I was all ready for today to paint the bed, but on my way to my dad's house the transmission decided to give up on me. I knew this would happen eventually, but was hoping it wouldn't be such an inconvenience as this. The problem was, my powerglide has been slipping between LO and HI and it's been taking longer and longer for HI to finally grab, until today when it wouldn't grab at all. The trans would shift out of LO fine but it felt like it was shifting into neutral. No amount of playing with the throttle or shifter would engage HI. So, my dad swung by with his '75 dually and hauled my truck back to his house. Although I was bummed, my kids loved helping us load up the truck.



We are just doing a stock trans rebuild on this powerglide so I will skip all the boring generic details...



...and cut straight to the issue. Notice anything wrong about this clutch pack? As in, there are basically no clutches on HI, and this is the good side! The opposite side of the clutches were wiped clean and polished to a nice shine. I guess full throttle revs in HI with no friction material will do that.



Now it's time to play the waiting game for parts to start showing up. I suppose I should clean these parts too while I wait...

[rusty76]

I never really seen an auto get rebuilt. Will ya give us some insights and tips along the way please.

[kehstr]

Those are by far the worst looking clutches my dad and I have every seen!!

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by rusty76

I never really seen an auto get rebuilt. Will ya give us some insights and tips along the way please.

Sure, I'll try to add some insight when we rebuild it, but my best tip is to have a professional help you! My dad has rebuilt literally hundreds of automatic transmissions so he's a huge help. There are some tricks to getting these things apart that are not readily obvious if you haven't rebuilt one before. Oh, and did I mention, a TON of parts, many of which are hard to decipher their exact purpose by just looking at the trans. This is also where a professional or some tutorial videos help significantly so that you don't forget where these mystery pieces fit back into the puzzle. Overall, if you're mechanically inclined and ambitious enough, you can do it.

Originally Posted by kehstr

Those are by far the worst looking clutches my dad and I have every seen!!

Pretty slick huh? (pun intended)

[weim55]

In all the decades I've been around these Chevys never even one time have I seen a Powerglide fail! I swear you could pull one out of the crustiest car in the junkyard and it will work just fine! Bulletproof trannys. Bummer you had to be the one! And today of all days...... At least you have the easiest automatic ever to rebuild! Kudos on keeping the original 2 speeder in the truck, ya don't here that old powerglide 'whine' in many builds anymore........

Steve weim55 Colorado

[GR8-68]

Well, at least you know what you have now This truck should glide down the road good now after this rebuild.

[rusty76]

I will ask are just keeping the powerglide for keeping sake or do just don't want to deal with a three or four speed auto? I'm just curious. Another gear might be nice.

[kehstr]

Originally Posted by rusty76

I will ask are just keeping the powerglide for keeping sake or do just don't want to deal with a three or four speed auto? I'm just curious. Another gear might be nice.

especially being able to have a lower first gear

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Well, at least you know what you have now This truck should glide down the road good now after this rebuild.

That is very true. I've known something was wrong with it for a while now but it is actually good to know what it was and that I can fix it.

Originally Posted by rusty76

I will ask are just keeping the powerglide for keeping sake or do just don't want to deal with a three or four speed auto? I'm just curious. Another gear might be nice.

One of the things that I really liked about this truck was its originality. Although I've now cut it up and put wheels on it, I'm still trying to maintain the original styling and equipment it had. The 307/powerglide combo is plenty of power and pickup for me, so I want to try and preserve those original aspects of the truck. I've had pretty much every other popular GM transmission in the past and I can't say that I like those any better than this powerglide. I've got the powerglide already, so why not?

[rusty76]

Boy I just read what I posted and makes me sound like a pirate. Lol. That's cool by me. I figured it was an originality thing. Still kool either way. Thanks.

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Boy I just read what I posted and makes me sound like a pirate. Lol. That's cool by me. I figured it was an originality thing. Still kool either way. Thanks.

No problem! I am always curious too about certain decisions people make on their build. Most times, reality dictates my build. Sure, I'd love to drop in a turbo LS w/ 4L60E, but my budget says I need to rebuild this powerglide and tune up the ol' 307.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by hewittca

No problem! I am always curious too about certain decisions people make on their build. Most times, reality dictates my build. Sure, I'd love to drop in a turbo LS w/ 4L60E, but my budget says I need to rebuild this powerglide and tune up the ol' 307.

Both feet flat on the ground ain't a bad way to live brother. We can't all be Top Gun pilots.....

I like it. Gus works.