1964 C10 fleet side swb

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by TxCajun

Those trailer light back-up lights that you found (post #112) are a great idea.

Looks like O'Reilly Auto has those locally for about $12 for a pair.

My truck does not have back-up lights, so I'm going to check those out as an alternative to the reproduction originals that are around $100 for a pair.

Thanks!

They look better than I was even expecting, only need to drill a small hole for these.


Since one bedside on mine already had the hole drilled for stock back up lights, I matched the size on opposite bedside. The two screws that hold the lense on are used to hold it to my bed side with J nut clips.


They light up bright and are cheap enough to replace if damaged, just uses a single filament bulb if it burns out, one wire and grounds through the mounting bolts like all my other lights on truck.

I think its a nice alternative to the stock ones, looks more retro as well.

[Justin71105]

Put bumpers on and sat it on the ground for the first time in a while.

Since I got column/linkage in I decided to try transmission once again, actually turned tires for a few seconds in each gear. Killed and checked fluid and it didnt seem to have pulled any through cooler, still too full. Started again and went through hears again and it worked a few secs and then nothing again.

Going to mess with it tomorrow some more, pull cooler lines ans see if it actually pumped anything.

Planned on having trans rebuilt from beginning so not an issue but would like to be able to move it around under its own power.

Hopefully having glass put in mid sept, got a qte last week, windshield was $320 incl install and back glass was $150 for just install. I tried putting back glass in Friday and am just going to let them do it. Fought it with my brotther for a good 2 hrs and decided against doing it.

Still need to bleed brakes as well, master is leaking at reservoir seal so probably going to get a new one first and bench bleed.

[Justin71105]

Local company coming out next Wed to do my front and rear glass. Body harness just about finished up other than guages and other dash stuff I dont have yet like ac/radio/wipers.

Found a deal on a used Borla ProXS muffler locally that I picked up. Looks to be a tight fit but I measured and think the muffler shop I'm going to use can do it.

Got a fromt sway bar from cpp I will be putting in and all new door parts ready to go in once I have transmission done. Hoping to be able to get it done soon, maybe early - mid Oct. Then I will only need to finish up a few other things to have it ready to start test deiving. Carpet, bed floor, fuel filler, assemble doors and put seats back in.

[Justin71105]

I got my Dakota Digital gauges put in today, still need to install oil pressure and water temp sensors and run those wires but wanted to see what they would look like.

Will try to finish that up tomorrow and maybe install my CPP sway bar.

[Justin71105]

Sound deadener done on firewall and wall behind seats. Going to do the roof after glass is put in.

Sprayed the dash, has orange peel and runs...but dang to me it looks really good.

Got to get some plywood for a bed floor, need to get it in before it goes to transmission shop.

[Justin71105]

Glass install was a bit of a cluster, front seal installer brought was for chrome trim and they could not get a standard seal from supplier which is what I need.

My back glass I was given with truck was too thick to fit in the rear gasket.

So I had to order a front standard seal and a new rear back glass. Hopefully will have them in next week and get everything installed.

Rear glass I was given with truck is 7.10mm or 1/4" thick, from reading online what I could find ahould be around 3-4mm or 1/8". Maybe the custom used a thicker glass for chrome trim trucks, cant find anything about it.

So neither glass was able to be installed. Guess I can do new e-brake cable setup while I wait.

[SCOTI]

I feel your pain.

I had issues w/my rear glass install years ago as well. Three attempts & he basically said he was done w/that 3rd. While the glass is installed, the seal is pinched @ both of the lower L & R corners on the inside. He sourced my glass locally. I sourced the first gasket but he didn't want to use it as he had material he normally used. He destroyed the one I provided (conveniently?) & ultimately used his go-to material for the 2nd/3rd installs.

I sliced relief cuts in the seal so they wouldn't protrude as much. I'm thinking about trying it again on my own.

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I feel your pain.

I had issues w/my rear glass install years ago as well. Three attempts & he basically said he was done w/that 3rd. While the glass is installed, the seal is pinched @ both of the lower L & R corners on the inside. He sourced my glass locally. I sourced the first gasket but he didn't want to use it as he had material he normally used. He destroyed the one I provided (conveniently?) & ultimately used his go-to material for the 2nd/3rd installs.

I sliced relief cuts in the seal so they wouldn't protrude as much. I'm thinking about trying it again on my own.

Hope they get it done this time around, trying again this Tuesday. I have a brand new back glass from LMC and a new non-trim windshield seal. Already have the rear glass seal and theybare bringing the windshield.

Ready to get the glass dome with so I can get in line for a transmission to be built. Dont want to jump theh gun and schedule to have a transmission done and installed and atill not have my glass in.

[Justin71105]

Back glass was installed today, took 2 guys about 2.5 hrs to get it in.

Said it was the first one they had done like this in a truck, usually see them in excavators and they were much easier to install. The LMC glass was 6.5mm thick, and I had a precision gasket for it.

It came out pretty good, the inside bottom corners do pucker a little but hopefully will settle with some time, not really worried about it as long as it doesnt leak.

They will be back out later this week to do the windshid, planner did not tell them they were supplying it. For the price I am happy with it, wish I had a helper or two for an afyernoon, could have done both myself.

Me and my brother tried it a couple weeks ago and while it whooped us I am confodent we could have gotten the rear done with more time. Problem is he's always busy and cant help for a couple hours like we would have needed.

[SCOTI]

I wish there was a solution for the lower-corner pucker.

[88Stanger]

Of all the things i kept stock from the truck, it is the back glass, for this very resaon. Nice work though....

[Justin71105]

They got the windshield imstlled in less than an hour, only charged me for wimdshield and install. No charge for installing back glass, so $370 for a windshield installed and install of back glass.

[cwcarpenter98]

That looks great!

[SCOTI]

Nice. Nothing like some fresh glass on your build!

[realvc]

Very nice!

[Justin71105]

Haven't posted in awhile but I did get carpet, seats, column and gauges installed last year. Have been traveling for work since Feb and have not been at home to do anything else.

All I need is bed floor, doors assembled and installed and a new transmission and I will be able to drive it and see what the next issues will be.

Going to order a bed floor just before I fly home to installed this winter. Will also try to complete assembly on the doors and get them installed as well.

I found a brilliant filler door idea on FB today. He used a 99-06 Chevy truck fuel filler door assembly, took off lid and mounted brake light to it and mounted hinge inside the pocket of stock brake light hole. Then used a bolt with wingnut on top bolt for a pull down.

Looks almost like the 67-72 one you can buy and can get the gas door at junkyard for about $15, he had a video on Facebook it looked awesome.

** Actually found a video of a guy doing the same idea on a F100

https://youtu.be/RsEiEI7iBrY

[Justin71105]

Got the driver side door inner bottoms replaced, although my lack of patience also caused this one one to pull in from the heat like the passenger side.

Good balance between the doors I guess haha, bit there like I say about all the metal work I've done. At least there isn't a rot hole in it anymore and hopefully it don't leak.

Now I am starting on the bed floor, I had to cut and remake one of the side rails that sits on top of the wood floor on the driver side bed in front of the wheel well. I had replaced it once before but made it too narrow, needed to be 1" wide.

[88Stanger]

Nice work!!

[Justin71105]

I got the bed floor in, back out and stained. Fuel cap behind the driver side brake light with a fill through cap. Using a strong magnet to hold the brake light in and will have a ground strap to hold it when I fill up, or weld a hook somewhere back there and hang it on the eye bolt I use to pull it out.

Both doors assembled, although one of the lmc regulators was a pos and not working. Stuck the stock one in the passenger side and a new one in driver side.

Now I just need to put in fuel hose to tank and re-install bed floor. Bleed the brakes, replace a out of round drum and it can go in for a reman transmission.

[Justin71105]

I can't figure out how to upload the picture without it being way to big. Resized and uploaded a new one and still its 4000x2700 or something crazy big.

So here's a link to the pics of the bed floor I finally got installed and doors completed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/672zS3KPy7G8k5St6

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

I can't figure out how to upload the picture without it being way to big. Resized and uploaded a new one and still its 4000x2700 or something crazy big.

So here's a link to the pics of the bed floor I finally got installed and doors completed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/672zS3KPy7G8k5St6

Looks good.
What was the floor coating process? Did you go w/pine or oak?

[Justin71105]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Looks good.
What was the floor coating process? Did you go w/pine or oak?

Oak floor, sanded and then did 3 coats of Valspar darkest night stain/sealer on top/bottom and maybe 2 extra coats on all the sides.

Sanded after the first coat dried but not for any of the others.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Oak floor, sanded and then did 3 coats of Valspar darkest night stain/sealer on top/bottom and maybe 2 extra coats on all the sides.

Sanded after the first coat dried but not for any of the others.

Thanks for following up. My computer monitor doesn't have enough detail to differentiate between a dark-stain vs paint. I dig it.

[Justin71105]

Have 2 rolls of setting tape for the vent windows, the glass slides out of the frame way too easy. Hopefully I can put it in with the frame attatched, if not will be using some type of glass sealant instead.

The bed looks better than I thought it would turn out. Need to sand an primer the body now to get it all looking decent.

[Justin71105]

Got the call today, finally after 5 weeks my transmissiom had been dropped out of the truck for rebuild.

Hopefuly will get it back soon and be able to have an exhaust installed and an alignment performed so I can drive it.