64' K10 Project Long Bed

[_mg]

Originally Posted by aotte1

Picked up a lot of the parts from being cleaned. They were soaked to remove the paint, etc., then on to another tank with electrical current to remove all the rust. Final third tank for dip of rust proof short term coating. The metal looks like new. Found very little rust rockers all solid.

Took about 2 hours to load it all up, everything is full of part, bed of truck under the bed sides and box on trailer.

Les

Ah, a good day.

[aotte1]

Next we went to powder coating facility about 2 hours away, and left almost all the parts to be coated. Using three different colors, and ceramic coating on rear bumper. Decided to powder coat everything as it does a much better job of putting a protective layer/coating in hard to reach areas, not accessible by regular paint process, especially the cab. Did this also as the electrolysis process removed all the rust from whole truck, and it has very solid body.

Yes, these wheels are the 15x8 three nubs from early Blazers and CUCVs, the 16x5" originals are in another part of this project, to be done later.

Also, got quart of ceramic black, to do bolts and a few parts with small springs, etc. Much thinner then powder coating film, and does not effect moving parts nearly as much. However needs to be a very controlled process to be durable coating.

Les

[aotte1]

Mg,

Yes, the smile is getting bigger on this project. It will be even bigger once have rolling frame, hopefully in next month.

Working on axles this week, 12 bolt almost done. Dana 44, have knuckle ball joints in, and working on gears and carrier bearings, also this week. Kimble will see how hard setting-up gears is, first time for Dana 44, looks to be harder then 12 bolt?

Les

[61K10]

yes they are harder than a 12B as the shims are under the bearing races. start with the same shims that were stock. I have new bearings that i have clearanced to slide off and on the pinion and carrier for set-up. the big problem is the shims under the pinion bearing races. google is your friend here lol! Let me know if you need anything i might have. you're welcome to the slip-fit bearings if you need them. I am not an expert by any means lol. Being retired with my income, i have to do it my-self (would anyway)

kimble

[61K10]

are you going to run a power brake booster? I have a 9" single diafram new---let me know as i have some extra parts----

[aotte1]

Kimble,

Yes, on using a power brake booster, have one from truck. Will post photo of it. Needs to be repaired. Will post more details soon.

Thanks,
Les

[pimpston65]

first off awesome staging area, second great base to start the rebuild, and lastly i hate you!!! ps better prime the fancy raw skin so no rust sneaks back in...

[aotte1]

Classic V6 GMC,

It is deluxe two tone, white and light green. Thanks for complement.

Pimpston65,

Thanks for the complement too, it is all getting coated now.

Les

[aotte1]

Rear 12 bolt Refurbished

The rear 12 bolt axle was rebuilt with new axles, bearings and seals, along with new Eaton posi and 3.73 gears. The axle tube powder coated gloss black, not original color, but just like it that way. The backing plates are semi-gloss black powder.

The original axles were pitted some what bad at the bearing surfaces, so replaced them with new Moser original size, 6 lug. Wheel studs are 7/16 by 20. The backing plates are newer 12 bolt ones that have larger brake shoes/ drums, and they fit original axle length . The originals are saved!! These backing plates are from a '77 12 bolt, thanks Karl, they were also used on newer 12 bolts too, into the 80s, with HD brakes. (Note: their is a more detailed post on this brake upgrade under "12 bolt drum brake upgrade") This was done as mentioned in earlier posts to match the '79 Dana 44 front axle upgrade with disk brakes. This will keep the whole brake system, the JB5 heavy duty option, GM offered in the 70s and 80s. The GM specs on this HD brake package are listed in earlier post number 211.


Will finish dressing it out soon, first need to look at emergency brake cables to see if they need any R/R before reinstalling them.

Photos below, last one shows putting a little synthetic grease on the outer bearings to protect them when first used.

Using non-synthetic lube to protect clutches in posi.

Will save the wheel studs from original axles, as they are in great shape for later use. Wish had used on new axles, did not thinks about that soon enough.

Les

[Classic v6 GMC's]

Nice build!! What color is the truck going to be?

[DPowers]

Great to see your progress.

[61K10]

Les--the later brake hoses must mount different as they are only a little less than 19". so look on rock auto as they have pics and the specs.

[61K10]

forgot a pic of mine

[aotte1]

Kimble,
Thanks for measurement, will check out rock auto photos for ' 61 and '64.
Photo too.

Les

[aotte1]

Jr West Coast Mirror Differences in Arms

Have two pair of GM Jr West Coast Mirrors with different arm length that extends from the cab. Do not know why the differences. Have checked three other trucks and they have the shorter arms. Will check truck that had longer arms. It may be a Forest Service Fleet truck, special order? Except for arm difference, the whole mirrors are exactly the same, the arms are both consructed exactly the same. They both also have the thin rubber film on the inside of the clamp that attaches to them.

1/2 vs 3/4 ton?

[aotte1]

Another photo.

[60-66]

Les , 1963 , 1964, 1965 are the short arms. 1966 is the longer arm mirror. Jon

[aotte1]

Jon,

Thanks!

Les

[aotte1]

Got two more pick-up loads of powder coated parts. I like the process used to clean the parts as it does not open up the pores on the metal, like abrasive methods. Still have the frame and cab to pick up, along with a few other parts, like the BA hood. Just my option, for powder coating, really like the quality you get from commercial/industrial companies. Believe their equipment and quality control is good.

[aotte1]

a few more photos. Maybe get the frame and cab later this week. Working on the bolts, brackets, clips this week, along with parts that did not get powder coated, because the have rotating/moving parts, that are difficult to take apart.

[aotte1]

On the non powder coated parts, ones that move, using a very thin ceramic film/coating, that is very hard along with high abrasion resistance.

[RANDY COX]

WoW I see lot'sa new parts lookin good...

[aotte1]

Randy,

Thanks, things are getting much better, now that most of the parts are clean.

Les

[aotte1]

64 K10 Front Spring Frame Rear Shackle Removed

One of the front spring rear shackle bolts was stuck in the frame bushing, and now have it removed. Used Kimble's advice for how he removed a stuck one from his '61 K10. Lube it with penetrating fluid, and keep doing till it loosened up. I used Kroil oil, along with two grade 8 bolts bottomed out on the treads, socket covering both and long breaker bar. Not sure how many foot-lbs of torque used on breaker bar, probably between 80 and 100 ft-lbs. Just kept applying force in one direct, then the other. It finally started to move a little, more back and forth, and it finally came out. All the time adding Kroil oil on the threads and through the internal port.

The next to last photo shows the oil used, and internal port in the bolt/pin.

The last photos shows the threaded frame bushing and the threaded bolt/pin that fits inside the bushing. Will show detailed photos of whole front spring shackles soon as put back together.

[aotte1]

Big day bringing the frame, cab, and other parts home from powder coating.