'50 5 window.....s10 swap

[BlueJeep]

I'll be interested to see how that turns out for you. I had a lot of problems with my steering shaft, and ended up taking a 95 s10 shaft and putting u-joints on both ends. The stock joints worked for pushing it around, but were beyond their operating angles and would create "hard spots" in the steering that only the u-joints were able to fix. I learned that the rag joint at the bottom can't handle ANY misalignment and the one at the top couldn't quite do what I needed it to.

[rhodog77]

Bluejeep,

Thanks for the info. Hopefully all goes well but if not no big deal. Thats why I only spent the 5 bucks. Do you have any pix of your steering linkage setup. I looked at your build thread but didnt see anything.

thanks agian for the heads up

brian

[OrrieG]

I did mine similar but use an Astro Van column since they have U-joints. Not as pretty as the Borgsen type but just as functional. I kept play in the shaft too for installation and because I know how much my cab and frame flex off-road. My build thread has more detail.

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by rhodog77

Bluejeep,

Thanks for the info. Hopefully all goes well but if not no big deal. Thats why I only spent the 5 bucks. Do you have any pix of your steering linkage setup. I looked at your build thread but didnt see anything.

thanks agian for the heads up

brian

I'll get some pictures tomorrow. Yes, I haven't updated my build thread in a while. The truck has been driveable for 3 weeks now, but I've been having a few intermittent problems with the 4L60E that I'm trying to figure out. It is a blast to drive though, if that gives you any motivation!! Got it done just in time for the last 2 days of GoodGuys Des Moines.

I used a 91 s10 steering column, and it just so happened that my 95 intermediate shaft fit with no modifications length-wise (newer body style s10's have the intermediate shaft go in under the dash, vs. hooking up in the engine compartment). My fix was to order u-joints to replace the stock joints for both ends, got them both from Speedway motors. I had a van shaft, but upon closer inspection the splines were bad on the box end and the joints weren't in the best shape, so I went new. Don't want to skimp on steering or brakes.

[rhodog77]

thanks for the pix orrie, It gives me something to think about if and when things good bad.

Bluejeep,
look forward to seeing some pix. im trying to get mine on the road around labor day. I have a ton of things to get done but im trying to be optimistic.

[BlueJeep]

Here's the pics of my steering linkage. The u-joints I used were Sweet brand from Speedway Motors, and I'd use them again in future projects.

Bottom where it attaches to the box:


Overall shot of steering shaft:

[rhodog77]

Got some parts today. Complete 4x4 chevy blazer rearend, hub to hub with springs and a practically brand new gas tank. Im hoping to get it the rearend cleaned up this week and HOPEFULLY in next weekend. I paid 100.00 for all of it. Not sure if Im going to switch to the blazer tank but it was in to good of shape not to get, and the price was right. Any thoughts, pros, cons challenges with switching to the blazer tank would be appreciated. It looks like a pretty easy swap. Got to get some new tank brackets/straps though.

[rhodog77]

Got the rear end cleaned up and put in this weekend. It was pretty straight forward, the brake lines are exactly the same. Very easy swap. I also scored a set of rear fenders and runningboards. I threw them on today just to see how things look. Im gonna have to raise the bed floor about 3 inches to get everything to lined up how I want it.

[Groyd]

How wide is that 4X4 rear end?

[rhodog77]

It was 5 and 1/2 inches wider than the 2WD. Its really close!!! I think that I may still run spacers or 2 inch offset wheels. Not really sure yet. I still have to get the bed bolted in place.

[chevy49]

looks like you have the 47-53 splash aprons.

[rhodog77]

Hey Jim,

Thanks for the info and the pix. I think I can make the 47-53 aprons work with my bed. Im going to start on it tomorrow.

Made a trip to the yard today. Got my bench seat today. Like many of you guys, I went with the 88-98 full size chevy route. 4 bolts to get it out made it nice and easy. I came home and removed the stock riser from my truck and set the new seat in to see how it fits. Still need to paint the brackets up and get the seat recovered or pick up a aftermarket seat cover. Im really happy I went with the bench seat. A ton easier then putting buckets in and the fit is perfect.

[rhodog77]

Well its been about 5 or 6 months since my last update. I have gotten alot done over the winter. I just finished up the fuel lines and wiring (for the most part) today. Im trying to get this beast on the road for when the weather breaks for good.....bout 4-5 weeks. Anyway wanted to check to see if the fuel lines were done right so I tried to start the motor today.

YouTube - it's alive

only ran it for a few seconds, still need to plumb the radiator and few little things under the hood. Man what a feeling of accomplishment. I felt like a little kid, smiling ear to ear!!!! I could tell that it needs a lot of tuning to get it right but in the end -------ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!

[shane o]

That is so cool, hope I can be to that point this summer

[jeffs51chevy]

Brian,
Congrats on the progress. I know how you are feeling. It's crazy how bad you want to drive it, after the motor turns for the first time. Now if we just had unlimited time and money . . . oh crap, reality fading. I gotta go, need more coffee to stay awake.

Jeff

[rhodog77]

You would think that a guy like me, no kids and a understanding wife, would have tons of time to work on the truck. NOPE!!! If it wasnt for vacations I would get anything done. It seems like I schedule my vacations around the truck schedule. Oh well, gotta get done sometime. My glass guy is supposed to stop by today to look and see if I have everything ready for him. I think I have it ready to go, so hopefully I have the glass in before the weekend is over. Hope to get the exhaust done next weekend.

[Kabwe]

Its coming along nicely, you must be excited. Good job.

[rhodog77]

Glass guy stopped buy today. He got the both corners in....took him about 10 minutes total. That is one skill that I would love to learn. This guy makes a killin doing this. He does every, and I mean every hot rod around the cincinnati area. Thankfully he and my pop are friends, didnt even charge me. He is cutting the glass for the fronts and rear this weekend. It might be a few weeks before he can come back to finish up, but the price is right so I will be very patient.

[rhodog77]

Pickup up my rims today. 15 x 7 stock chevy wheels. They are dead straight with very little hard rust. I wanted an old school look. Im going to paint them black, chrome lug nuts and some type of chrome center cap and of course white walls. I have been calling around and getting prices on have the rims sandblasted....$150 for all 5 rims was the best price I could find. Thats more than what I think its worth so I decided to splurge and pick up a blast cabinet and do it myself. The rims are dirty with some surface rust, I think they will clean up real nice. I only have $20 bucks in them so not a huge loss if it doesnt work out

[Warrens69GMC]

Good job!!

[rhodog77]

Fired up the sandblaster and wow!!!! Here is my 2 cents. A sandblast cabinet should be one of the very first tools you should buy. If I had this thing at the beginning of my build, it would have turned out much nicer, saved me time and money. I paid $100 bucks for a clarke cabinet at my local tractor supply. No leaks and pretty much ready to go straight out of the box, unlike the one @ harbor freight. Plus it has a top load lid. My 15 x 7 rim easily fit. Anyway, like I said just my 2 cents. Here is a before and after. Its not the best picture, but believe me the difference is amazing. I took a wire wisk and buffed out the wheel a bit. It looked like polished stainless when I got done. think I will shoot the cleaned rim with a coat of filler primer and then a few coats of satin black.

[vintage_car]

On your radiator support, I have the same summit radiator, and have the stock radiator support from my 48. I see how you chopped it up and added that bracket on the bottom, but I was wondering how you actually attached the radiator to the support. I noticed, what looked to be sheet metal screw heads in one of your pics? Since the radiator doesn't have flanges to actually screw into, what did you come up with.

[rhodog77]

Vintage,
Here is a shot of the radiator and support from the front. I drilled holes thru the support and thru the top and bottom lips of the radiator and then just bolted it in. I have "L" brackets that I will attach to the frame and to the sides of the core support. I think Im going to weld the brackets to the frame and then bolt the support to the brackets. I want to be able to take everything apart if need be. This part of the build has been the worse, IMO. Next time I will start with the support using the stock radiator/support and work my way back. The height, postion of the radiator and support really dictates how high or low the cab should be. Hope this helps, if not let me know, I have more pics if need be. Good luck!!!

[vintage_car]

Thanks for the closer pic, and detailed description that is what I needed. post pics of those "L" brackets and how they are mounted as I might copy that as well! I'm dreading this part of the build, this and the steering column.

[rhodog77]

i picked up the brackets at summit when i got the radiator. Here is the link

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-380100/?rtype=10

I dont have any pix but I will take some and post.