1955 12 Valve NAPCO Clone

[Luther Grimace]

Has anybody left the rubber cover off the side plate? What is this for? Any experiences? Also anybody have a picture of the cam to injection pump timing mark pictures for stock timing and advanced?
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[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Luther Grimace

Has anybody left the rubber cover off the side plate? What is this for? Any experiences? Also anybody have a picture of the cam to injection pump timing mark pictures for stock timing and advanced?
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Do you just want pics of injection pump to head clearance?

What rubber cover? The clutch fork boot on your Getrag?

Kind of bad pics. I'll see if I have more.

[6BT 56]

hey luther when u bled your clutch was there a bleeder in the lower cylinder ? I dont seem to have any kind of bleeder anywhere in my system. I want to shorten up the hose for my application and will have to bleed it in the neer future.

[Luther Grimace]

Mine didn't have a bleeder but there is a plug in it. I just bled it by pulling the slave cylinder and manually pressing it by hand about 10 times. I had my line disconnected from the clutch master too.
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[1985-GMC]

I think he means the marks on the pump and cam gear.

- NOTE: Stock/OEM injection pump timing has the "O" of the camshaft gear line up with the "E" of the injection pump gear.

Here, you can see the pump is advanced by two teeth.

[Luther Grimace]

Yeah that's it! I only did mine one over to line up the 0 with the C. The rubber over I was talking about is the one that bolts over the tappet cover. I think it is for noise reduction. I ditched it cause it was all broken.
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[Luther Grimace]

Here are some pictures from the long weekend. I managed to get the engine ready to drop in minus swapping the oil pan with help from my friends. I also got the wheel barrow welded in for my new firewall.


Here is the timing advanced one tooth. I fully retarded the pump all the way to the point where I could still get a closed end 13mm on and off the very back pump nut.




You can see in the last picture where I left the rubber/plastic cover off the tappet cover. I hope this doesn't bite me in the butt but it was terrible shape. Anybody else removed this?

Here's the wheel barrow firewall install.

[Luther Grimace]

Here is the interior shot of the firewall. Not too big. I don't have a picture but I also cut my brake pedal and shifted the pad about an inch to the left.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work! The fire wall looks sweet man! Yes, that rubber cover is just for noise reduction. The only thing you will notice is a little ticking noise with that removed. Other than that, it's just an oil absorbtion pad.

[Luther Grimace]

Thanks! It turned out pretty good I thought. I almost put filler on it and made it super smooth looking but figured this truck is too rough.

I got another couple of timing questions. Why would anyone bump there timing 2 notches? I would like to keep mine fully retarded where I can get to stuff but I realize I will prolly have to move it. Also is there any way to time these with a degree wheel or something to figure out what the timing is? What is stock timing? 1/8" bump? 1 tooth? 2 teeth? I know it depends on pump location and how it is clocked. I am just trying to figure out if how to time it. I heard of someone putting a timing light on one? How would that work?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Luther Grimace

Thanks! It turned out pretty good I thought. I almost put filler on it and made it super smooth looking but figured this truck is too rough.

I got another couple of timing questions. Why would anyone bump there timing 2 notches? I would like to keep mine fully retarded where I can get to stuff but I realize I will prolly have to move it. Also is there any way to time these with a degree wheel or something to figure out what the timing is? What is stock timing? 1/8" bump? 1 tooth? 2 teeth? I know it depends on pump location and how it is clocked. I am just trying to figure out if how to time it. I heard of someone putting a timing light on one? How would that work?

You can use a dial indicator and a degree wheel to find cam center line, yes. People go 2 teeth to advance it more. 1 tooth is good for 5*. On my VE pumped 24v, I skipped 2 teeth and it's half way to the head. I'll check timing after it runs. 24v's run a little higher timing than 12v's. On the timing light, you have to buy a pulse adapter to go on an already expensive timing light.

[XJAbuzer]

Coming along great. I like the wheel barrow firewall mod. Ingenuity at its finest!

[Luther Grimace]

Originally Posted by XJAbuzer

Coming along great. I like the wheel barrow firewall mod. Ingenuity at its finest!

Thanks! I can't take the credit for the idea. My Dad came up with it. I just ran with it. You should've have seen the look I got at Lowe's when I tried to buy just the "barrow"!

[XJAbuzer]

Originally Posted by Luther Grimace

Thanks! I can't take the credit for the idea. My Dad came up with it. I just ran with it. You should've have seen the look I got at Lowe's when I tried to buy just the "barrow"!

I bet. I would even go as far as to not paint it on the interior and leave it like it is. Definitely a conversation starter for your passengers.

[6BT 56]

Now your maken some progress. It sucks when you get in to the kind of bind only the money gun can get you out of .

Keep us posted when it makes some smoke !

[OrrieG]

I have heard the red Home Depot ones make more HP!
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[Luther Grimace]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I have heard the red Home Depot ones make more HP!
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We got the engine in last night. The firewall has a bunch of spare room. I prolly could have made it about 1 or 2" shallower. Its ok though. If I ever wanna move the engine back more I could probably run a mechanical fan . But this won't be happening for a long time though. I almost got it cranked last night but I didn't have any spare diesel and the mechanical pumps on a first gens stink. I hope it fires off and runs perfect. Heres to crossed fingers.

[6BT 56]

Its nice to see that eng in there . You were kicken butt before your "set back" . Ive been sidetracked on mine lately. Were going to FL for a week in March. Had to do full brakes on my 05 3500. As well as ball joints , front u joints and rebuild the front driveshaft. That broke my budget. Not too bad tho. It would have had to be done in April anyway for commercial saftey.

Anyone know of any cool car guy things to do in FL ? Staying in Kisseme .

I will need a daddy day out for sure !!!

[Luther Grimace]

Y'all have fun down there! That's a long drive from Canada isn't it?! I hear on your budget killer. I just bought new tires for my 92 Chevy and I had to redo the front end also. Luckily my parts are warranted. Does that Dana 60 go through ball joints often?
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[Luther Grimace]

Good news! I got it cranked again but it seems super retarded. I am thinking about skipping the second tooth so I can keep the pump in the fully retarded position for easier tuning. What are y'all's thoughts? Who all is running two teeth advanced and what pump positions?
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[6BT 56]

I will be a honest 24 hr on the road. Longer if I see Shiney, rusty , cool ,old stuff i want to look at ! The dodge hasent used a d60 since 2002. Its a AAM axle thats under there now. Its not bad on ball joints , 3 in 300,000 km. Im wating till it needs 2 at the same time . Then I will buy the dynatrack ones . I have there free spin kit in the truck now. I like there stuff.

[Luther Grimace]

I forgot about them swapping to the AAM. Is it a pretty big ring gear and no more CAD? I'm not gonna lie I had to look up KM to miles to see what that was for me! In engineering school we used SI which was much easier to work with.

Here are some pictures last night when I cranked it.

[6BT 56]

Man the pump looks so easy to work on like that. I wish I could move mine. All that good cdn road salt made the lines look like twisting the pump like that would lead to a real leak. Bummer . I wonder if anyone has a affordable complete line kit ?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 6BT 56

Man the pump looks so easy to work on like that. I wish I could move mine. All that good cdn road salt made the lines look like twisting the pump like that would lead to a real leak. Bummer . I wonder if anyone has a affordable complete line kit ?

Do you need different lines? I bet we have a set.

[Luther Grimace]

Good news two days in a row. I'm getting suspicious. I was right about the timing being retarded. I pulled the injection lines off tonight and timed it the proper way with the dial indicator. I didn't have the fancy dial indicator that actually threads in to the injection pump so I had to rig something up with my magnetic base. Pump lift at TDC is supposed to be 1.25 mm or 0.049". When I checked mine it was 0.030" so it was off a good bit. I loosened the pump and advanced it until I got it to 0.050" or 1.27 mm and called it good. Threw it all back together and re bled it. It's running good now. I am gonna mark this for reference and do an 1/8" bump here soon. Also gonna mess with the full power screw. I need to get a new fuel pin and governor spring while I'm at it. I'm ready to burn rubber!
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