72 2wd project "No Daggum Money"

[jjzepplin]

Well crud. The passenger side hits the flippen frame. I should have listened. I don't think it will take much to make it work. AH well. The pipes on these headers look so much bigger than I remember my Hooker Super Comps to have been. I am glad I did not get the 1 7/8". These are the 1 3/4".

[jjzepplin]

I "massaged" my frame to make the passenger header fit. The driver side bolts up fine and does not hit that "nub" on the block. I can now tell how long my O2 sensor wires need to be so I can button up the wire harness. Couple questions if anyone is out there.
1. Can I reuse stock mutli layer manifold gaskets for the headers?
2. I am using the stock F-body fuse and relay blocks. It seems one of them uses a large relay to turn on all the Positive wires going through the fuses. It is triggered by a Negative. Is there a terminal on the computer (1999) that I can use for this purpose?

[jjzepplin]

Driver side header.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

... I have got absolutely no money to put in this truck but...

how 97.2% of all truck builds start! ha ha

[jjzepplin]

Ok so - I bought a 6.0L most likely an LQ9 from what I can tell. This thing was dirt cheap. And I mean DIRT cheap. I wouldn't have bought it if it wasn't. I can barely turn it over by hand with the plugs in it. The guy said it had 170,000 miles. The plug look like they are right out of the box. He said it was a 1998 5.3. I got it home and saw the 6.0 on the spotless back of the engine. There is no timing cover or valve covers or oil pan or valley cover or intake or sensors. A replacement crate motor was installed and this was left over. The timing chain has just a smidge of slack. It has 317 heads and he gave me the air box and engine covers (VORTEC MAX). The air box says 2006 6.0L. I did not think to check til I got home. SO - what to do with it? Pull the 5.7L? Will all the parts interchange? Is this thing going to nickel and dime me to death?

[jjzepplin]

So I started a new thread for the 6.0. Back burner build while I wait for parts for this Blazer. Also replacing some worn Gaskets on my other truck with some new fangle silicone type stuff. I figure the oil pan is silicone and it is still sealed up good even after the accident so why not.
I ordered a new transmission X member for the T56 as my old one was just cobbled together and was ok for the Saginaw but I am going to pound on this T56 pretty hard so I though it was good money spent. It was only $100 shipped and looks pretty stout. I know this build (if I can call it that) is taking it's sweet time, But I am not giving up yet.

[jjzepplin]

Here is the X member. More pics in this thread. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...75#post8783175

It slipped in nicely and fits great. Exhaust should be fine as well. The driveline seems about in the right place without the spacer. I will post final installation pics when the day comes.

[jjzepplin]

I am going to use the factory F-body radiator and condenser/fan unit and modify my support to fit it all. I monkeyed around a bit yesterday and I think I have come up with a pretty good fit. My rad support is a 69/72 model and should be a 67-68 so I can experiment with this one and do final modification to the correct model when the time comes. I am going to try to use as much of the factory AC as well except the Sanden compressor will be utilized. The bracket for that is not cheap and with my Sanford and Son mentality, It is hard to plink down the duckets for such an extravagance. I guess the rest of it was cheap enough. Pics to come.

[slowcpe]

any updates? Curious to see how your transmission crossmember fits.

[jjzepplin]

Sorry for the lag. I set the cross member up in the frame and set the trans on it and it fits pretty good without the spacer provided. I have not yet cut the holes in the frame as I was just so happy it fit. The trans is a little high and hits the tub tunnel towards the rear and right where the cover will be. I have seen where some have just cut this area but I am looking at possible shifter options because I really want the old Hurst Feel of a quarter stick but my current shifter is B-M and is solid with no way of bolting on my old stick. I thought I posted pics here but will get some soon. I also have been working on installing the Trans Am stock master cylinder and think I have come up with a solution and have it pumping dry right now but with a custom shaft to the cylinder I think it will be just fine. What a mutha to figure out the angles though. Nice part is that if it goes haywire down the road I can just go to the parts store and boom I'm back on the road. No special order Wilwood stuff. I just got a new job and I am deemed "Essential" so small back burner for this but I will snap some pics in the next couple days.

[jjzepplin]

So I am a slacker but am getting ready to do some work. I know I know. Some pics of the crossmember. Not fully installed as I have to take it out and get it powder coated but still a GREAT buy and a GOOD fit! The exhaust may get changed out before I fire it up but the member leaves ample room for the duals.

[jjzepplin]

Not much progress with my new job making me study micro organisms and highly complicated multi faceted algebraic problems. I did order a Tick remote bleeder kit with the one man type bleeder. I have not installed it yet, but it looks to be of good quality. I know I have to address the rusted rocker box in the pic but I was thinking that might be a retirement job. I just want to get out and drive this thing. It's been 14 years since I've driven it and that rust has not migrated much. It sits in a garage now though.

[jjzepplin]

I installed the Tick bleeder system and would recommend it to anyone. It is long enough to fit right back in the clutch master so BAM! I don't even see this system making a mess at all when bleeding the clutch. I am still wrestling with spending any money on this project. This is probably the most I've spent in years. I have that LQ9 sitting in the corner and was thinking that when I sell my rental property I just might splurge and top the LQ9 with a MAGNUSSEN. Sleepy thread pending... That should cure my spending thriftiness.

[jjzepplin]

Well I finally installed a proper Flip kit in the rear and am ready to order a driveshaft. I am thinking 3" aluminum. There's one on ebay by Coleman Racing for $380. Sure would save me some time.

[jjzepplin]

Well my ebay flip kit was crap and the U bolts stripped at 130 lbs torque. Guess that's better than during a burnout. I was thinking of matching them up at the junk yard to some stock GM stuff or having some custom made. I guess not finishing this quickly may have saved me some injuries.

[jjzepplin]

Alrighty. I am getting back on this and I need you all to get on me for updates. I think my torque wrench is broken or does not work upside down. I also went to the junk yard and cut a section from a 2007 Denali fuel tank to get the fuel pump mounting ring that I hope to graft to my existing poly tank. I found a fella on Ebay that will make stainless rings with bolt holes to sandwich it to my tank. I also picked up the pump from the Denali. I think it should work ok and seems like there is enough room under there. PIcs to come. If the Denali pump does not work, I will try a 2010 Camaro pump. Should plop right in. Stay tuned. HAHA

[jjzepplin]

Here's what I have so far.Attachment 2338220

[LT7A]

Whoa. You're back.

[jjzepplin]

YES! I just have to get this thing running! I have the drawings back from the manufacturer for my Fuel pump mounting rings. Hopefully I can order them today. I guess it will be easy to clean the tank once I put a big hole in it for the pump. The old sending unit was literally a chunk of rust. When I put it in it was intact and working. Best I can figure is squirrels were up in there peeing on it or something. That is some rapid deterioration that I don't think I can blame on the new gas.

[jjzepplin]

Also getting some work done on my Electronic Speedo. I sure hope it works with this Tremec trans.