Project: Blank Slate

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 70k52wd

Nate, have you priced what Stockton wheel may be able to do to get you some 7in rims? I'm sure the thought has crossed your mind.

Hey Charlie that is a good idea,... BUT,... have you seen this thread about Stockton Wheels on the H.A.M.B.?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=182382.

This thread spans 2 years about bad service, lies, etc. with Stockton Wheel Co.

I have actually had wheel work done by them over 10 years ago. But I guess the service has changed since then.
(I had two 15x8 5-lug ralleys changed to a 5" back space. That cost about $100 per wheel, buy the time I got them shipped to me. Ouch!)

Also,... Nate has a pair of 15x7, 6-lug ralleys he can "borrow" forever,... but he's trying to find a set of his own.

[72BlckButy]

Keith is right... I do have a set of 15x7 6-lug rallys sitting in my garage, but I just hate running borrowed rims. I guess I will just have to.... not that I'm complaining!

I'd still like to locate a set, but until then I'm in debt to another buddy. If I can't locate an original set then I will just keep looking, as I think at this time before I spend some decent funds on a set of rallys, the money will go in another direction for the truck.

Thanks for the info Charlie!

[70k52wd]

I did not know that about Stockton.
Get those rallys on there, then go find a replacement set.
OR, dip into the cookie jar for that set of Vintecs.

If I go to Carlisle this weekend, I'm looking for some, for you, or just to have for later use for the project I don't have yet.

[72BlckButy]

Thanks Charlie!

[72BlckButy]

Now to put an end to the never ending saga of determining which KYB shocks to use on a lowered vehicle. According to the boxes shipped by ECE, and after confirming the number with the shock themselves, here's the numbers you need to correspond with your local KYB dealer:

02-7002 Front KYB GR-2 Drop Shock (344068)
02-7510 Rear KYB GR-2 Drop Shock (344055)

The numbers 344055 and 344068 are stamped into the shock, and is also part of the UPC printed from KYB.

[gcburdic]

Very good info there Nate!!!...Now get those things on!!!LOL

[C20-67_N_MO]

So Nate what is your total drop on the Front and Back now?

Sorry I didn't read the whole thread so not sure, but did you use drop spindles or drop springs only? Also you are not running a power booster on your master cylinder is that correct? Where did you get your Prop Valve?

Thanks, and sorry if this has been mentioned before as I just skipped to the last page.

-Scott-

[lolife99]

4.5/6 drop. All ECE stuff. 2.5" drop spindles, 2/6 drop springs, Super Track Bar, KYB shocks, ECE shock relocators, with a manual disc/drum Master Cylinder. (No booster)
ECE 6-lug rotors, calipers, etc.
One stop shopping for a complete 4.5/6 lowering kit.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lolife99

4.5/6 drop. All ECE stuff. 2.5" drop spindles, 2/6 drop springs, Super Track Bar, KYB shocks, ECE shock relocators, with a manual disc/drum Master Cylinder. (No booster)
ECE 6-lug rotors, calipers, etc.
One stop shopping for a complete 4.5/6 lowering kit.

Do you think one of you guys could get me the dimensions on those shocks (fully compressed; fully extended). N2Billet & I are trying to determine how well they'll work on a bagged ride.

[lolife99]

SCOTI,...
I tried to go to KYB's website and find some info,... but no luck with my slow dial up.
I have ECE's KYB rear shocks on my blazer with bags. (different shock set up on the front with my SD tubular a-arms)
Nates are on his truck already.
I'll keep looking,...

[72BlckButy]

Keith/SCOTI, I just tried to cross reference the part numbers with KYB's website, but they don't have the dimensions of the shocks.

I'm not sure if a call to KYB would benefit things or not.

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by C20-67_N_MO

So Nate what is your total drop on the Front and Back now?

Sorry I didn't read the whole thread so not sure, but did you use drop spindles or drop springs only? Also you are not running a power booster on your master cylinder is that correct? Where did you get your Prop Valve?

Thanks, and sorry if this has been mentioned before as I just skipped to the last page.

-Scott-

Originally Posted by lolife99

4.5/6 drop. All ECE stuff. 2.5" drop spindles, 2/6 drop springs, Super Track Bar, KYB shocks, ECE shock relocators, with a manual disc/drum Master Cylinder. (No booster)
ECE 6-lug rotors, calipers, etc.
One stop shopping for a complete 4.5/6 lowering kit.

Scott, Keith nailed it on the head as far as the parts go. You will not find a better supplier for one stop shopping.

The parts went together rather well; I just can't wait to do it again.

[70k52wd]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Do you think one of you guys could get me the dimensions on those shocks (fully compressed; fully extended). N2Billet & I are trying to determine how well they'll work on a bagged ride.

I'm running these on my bagged Blazer. If you use your stock mount they will just barely hit bottom. I went with a raised upper mount. Gave about an 1-1.25in before bottom. Plenty of travel at ride.

[C20-67_N_MO]

Okay so I have a question for you then. Since I only have 3" drop springs for the rear I bought from GMCPauls do you think he would exchange them for 5-6" drop springs?

I know you got your parts from ECE but wondering if anyone has any dealing with GMCPauls on returns or exchanges?

And btw how come you didn't use a power booster with your setup? I bought mine (chrome) off ebay and plan on using it with my 4 barrel intake and Holley 390-cfm carb.

Are you staying stock on your 250?

And how does your truck ride since the lowering process?

Thanks for all the answers as all I can do is dream about mine since it's still in the body shop.

[72BlckButy]

Scott,

I decided not to run a booster because I wanted to keep it looking as stock as possible under the hood. Yeah I know the M/C and proportioning valve aren't original but to most people they don't have a clue.

I am going to stick with the 250, much to the demise of several people. For some reason I live the motor and you just don't see them.

After I lowered the truck it rides like a dream. I was actually a little concerned the ride would be to harsh, but it's like floating on a cloud, no joke!

Keep the questions coming...

[C20-67_N_MO]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

I am going to stick with the 250, much to the demise of several people. For some reason I live the motor and you just don't see them.

Keep the questions coming...

I wanted to be different as well and staying with the 6 banger. But I want to later on rebuild it for performance. I really want to use a different 4 barrel intake other than the Clifford brand I have now. As what I am hearing is that intake works well with the 292 but not so much on the 250.

Are you keeping your engine stock for now? I like performance so I really want to wake up this engine and have it really breath better!

Thanks for answering all my newbie questions!

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

Scott,

I decided not to run a booster because I wanted to keep it looking as stock as possible under the hood. Yeah I know the M/C and proportioning valve aren't original but to most people they don't have a clue.

I am going to stick with the 250, much to the demise of several people. For some reason I live the motor and you just don't see them.

After I lowered the truck it rides like a dream. I was actually a little concerned the ride would be to harsh, but it's like floating on a cloud, no joke!

Keep the questions coming...

I would hate to see you swap the six banger out, as far as keeping it stock, well that is a chore isn't it?

[Skirkpat]

Originally Posted by C20-67_N_MO

I like performance so I really want to wake up this engine and have it really breath better!

I think a small turbo charger might do the trick?

[70k52wd]

6 banger talk...In the olden days a 4dr chevll use to prowl the streets of Northern Va. with 250 3deuce with silly spray. We all new not to mess with him. We just had factory cars.

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by C20-67_N_MO

I wanted to be different as well and staying with the 6 banger. But I want to later on rebuild it for performance. I really want to use a different 4 barrel intake other than the Clifford brand I have now. As what I am hearing is that intake works well with the 292 but not so much on the 250.

Are you keeping your engine stock for now? I like performance so I really want to wake up this engine and have it really breath better!

Thanks for answering all my newbie questions!

I wasn't aware of any issues with Clifford pieces on a 250. As for my 250 I am planning on keeping it as stock as I can. Eventually is will be pulled out and gone through, painted, and what not.

Originally Posted by Skirkpat

I would hate to see you swap the six banger out, as far as keeping it stock, well that is a chore isn't it?

You have no idea....

Originally Posted by Skirkpat

I think a small turbo charger might do the trick?

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by 70k52wd

6 banger talk...In the olden days a 4dr chevll use to prowl the streets of Northern Va. with 250 3deuce with silly spray. We all new not to mess with him. We just had factory cars.

Gotta love a sleeper...

[C20-67_N_MO]

Anyone have ECE website?

Can't seem to find it anyplace.

Thanks in advance.

Looks like GMCPauls only have 5" rear drop springs so I need to sell my 3" drop springs because drop blocks change the pinion angle.

[my67chevytruck]

http://www.earlyclassic.com/Home.asp...uest+A+Catalog

Scoti/Keith,

I bet if you called Mark or Stan @ ECE they would be happy to give you the measurements.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

http://www.earlyclassic.com/Home.asp...uest+A+Catalog

Scoti/Keith,

I bet if you called Mark or Stan @ ECE they would be happy to give you the measurements.

If anyone has the shocks not yet installed, it's as easy as allowing them to fully expand & measuring; then put one end on a table & compress it until it bottoms out measuring from eye to eye. It might not be dead nuts accurate, but it will be close enough for a 35+ year old truck .

[70k52wd]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

If anyone has the shocks not yet installed, it's as easy as allowing them to fully expand & measuring; then put one end on a table & compress it until it bottoms out measuring from eye to eye. It might not be dead nuts accurate, but it will be close enough for a 35+ year old truck .

I had my front end up, so here you go. Both measurements are eye center to center. Extended=15 1/4in, compressed=10in...Done!