What did you do to your truck today part II.

[pimpston65]

second run of bolts and such

[TJ's Chevy]

WHEW! That's a ton of bolts to go through! LOL! Yer truck must be in pieces. LOL! Well...yer bolts will be shiny!

[E911manager]

Pulled the bed off in hopes that the next time it goes on it will match the truck...

[pimpston65]

pieces yup, at least i will know this truck inside and out

[TJ's Chevy]

Made a list of parts I need to install my new HEI today...as well as inspections. lol. Hopefully we'll get it in this week end.

[pimpston65]

bTw T.J. the bolts weight 10lbs i had the guy put em on the scale when i drop em off. wish i could get chrome plating $10 a pound id plate my whole truck tires and all jkjk

[Rob Fisher]

Well. I did not do it all today but I did finish it today and I couldn't be happier.
I have being trying to find push on weather strip for my 1964 GMC and I think I have found it.
I tried re-attaching the original glue on type with not much success, I went ahead and bought the push on type that GMC Paul's sells for later model trucks thinking I could make it work and it doesn't.
I have found however that the Door Seal weather strip off of a 2006 to 2009 Honda Civic 2 door Coupe P/N 72315-SVA-A01ZA Right and P/N 72355-SVA-A01ZA Left is the perfect fit. And I do mean perfect, the Honda weatherstrip comes as a formed continuous loop and it is exactly the right length, no trimming required. I have attached a few photos.
I also finished up my Altman Easy latches and they work great with the new weatherstrip.

[pimpston65]

sorted pretty much every nut bolt screw and washer to make sure i have em all back from the phospate coaters. talk about every nut and bolt restoration... no one mentions you gotta sort em back out, but it saves money and time as i only needed two runs cost $100. $50 each run, or course they just dumped frinking everything in one bin, so u better take plenty o pics and have a few build books cuz "dumpty" wants to be put back togther again!!!

[Casaba]

Bled the brakes, replaced the water pump and greased the A-arms on my 66. Installed a below the bed toolbox and vacuumed it out. Also changed the timing up a bit to 34 degrees all in before the vacuum can.

[Casaba]

Removed the entire front end from the 61 so I can clean up the frame and install a new engine/Trans.
Then I was tired and got cleaned up

[TJ's Chevy]

Installed my new HEI today! Man this truck has never run better!!! 65K coil burns All the fuel now! Pictures to come in my build thread later.

[TJ's Chevy]

Here's a picture(read post #173 for what I did) lol..Picture is a day late..anyhow..installed and running great!

[dean jendro]

Mounted up my new wheels and tires and worked on the fitment of front end and door sheet metal. Should be ready for body and paint work soon.

[pimpston65]

did some dumb s**t paid $100 for a radiator cap i saw on one of the trucks from the lambracht auction tell if it was a score or a waste of money. i tried repop but only RC15 were found and the one repop had 13LB not 13# and 307 and not RC6

[Casaba]

Replaced the brake shoes on all four corners... Wow that's what brakes feel like. Lubed the speedometer cable and cleaned up the cab after I burst a bottle of dry-slide ALL over it. (Not fun btw)

[NEWFISHER]

Edward scissor hands?

[PORKY]

We got the cab painted today, been 10 months since we worked on it. All that is left now to paint is the two front fenders. Then re-assemble the old girl. Soon I hope.

[mattfranklin]

I removed a lot of non-stock funky wiring from under the dash. There was a non-working (but always on) non-stock radio , a couple of aftermarket gauges, and a tach with lots of extra coiled up wire in there. Much cleaner now.

After that I hooked my HEI up to the "IGN. UNFUSED" terminal on the fuse block, with an inline fuse, and a clean propper gauge wire. Before that it had a toggle switch on an always hot smaller gauge wire with no fuse.


I should have used propper pigtails, solder, and heat shrink, but for now just used crimp-on connectors.

It feels good to get that cleaning done.

Next week I'm planning to plug a fresh wire into the other "IGN. UNFUSED" connector for the electric choke.

[pimpston65]

yeah 60-66 the radiator cap is NOS, and on ebay!!! the seller wanted $199 but i offered $100 and took a chance, to my surprize and delight they took it... thanks for the reply as i thought they were hard to find. good thing im down to the last correct bits cuz prices are way too high!!!!

[rickywideglide]

installed new starter(no more grinding sound), glovebox insert,one door check retainer,not happy with it. then saw thread about the jeep retainers... should have checked before ordering

[pimpston65]

picked up and installed my factory correct bent down tube and muffler, it really fits!!!!! walker stopped makin the down pipe. obsolete, no folks still need it walker. anyway my guy did it right

[sodly]

Originally Posted by pimpston65

picked up and installed my factory correct bent down tube and muffler, it really fits!!!!! walker stopped makin the down pipe. obsolete, no folks still need it walker. anyway my guy did it right

Pimpston, I gotta say you are one dude that really makes me scratch my head! You seem to sweat over small details of originality in your truck. Yet at the same time I see you're building a wild, purple-framed, about-as-far-from-stock-as-it-gets truck. Your truck seems to have many correct elements yet in completely wrong colors and finishes. Not even close to stock colors. Lots of incongruent visuals like old school bias ply tires on low-rider chrome wire wheels..... yet there's a carefully bent OEM exhaust system.... but a chromed suspension and rear axle. Huh? Seems like most guys here lean one way or the other: all-stock, or slammed/custom. You, my friend, are apparently a strange hybrid of the two groups. When I read about you spending big bucks on NOS pieces for your truck I can't help asking myself "why?" Care to enlighten us? Not trying to throw stones or bag on your truck or your tastes. To each his own. But you make me really curious and I bet some others are, too. I wonder what's the appeal of going to such lengths to be factory-correct when the finished product is very incorrect? At any rate, good luck with the build and thanks!

[1971 GMC SHORTY]

Got Top Of Engine In Order Headers Wires Coil Carb Cleaned Up Then Today went to Long Beach Hot Rod Swap Meet !!Seen This Sub

[64shortbox]

I wanted power door locks in my 64 C10. I've read that a LOT of the after market door lock solenoids aren't worth a carp so I wanted to stay with GM solenoids. I STOLE jimmydean's idea on installing power door locks but with a twist. I used the power door lock solenoids & brackets from a Chevy Astro Van. I drilled out the pivot pin and bracket to 5/16" & used a 5/16" X 3/4" bolt and Nylock nut. I used a coat hangar as a template to make my lock pull rod. Once I had that figured out I bought a length of 1/8" steel rod from Lowe's - about $3.00 if I remember correctly. The window channel is 1" wide. I drew a center line down the channel mounting screws & measured 5/8" out from there. I took the mounting bracket off the solenoid set it against my lay out line and marked my holes. I drilled my holes at 5/6" allowing a "little" play for solenoid positioning. It's a very close fit between the door skin and the window channel but it does fit without contacting the door skin or window channel. There's definitely a sequence to taking everything apart & putting everything back. Loosen the top screw to the window guide channel & remove the bottom screw. Remove the 3 screws holding the door latch mechanism then remove the 3 screws attaching the door handle latch assembly. As you walk the door striker around the window channel you will be able to disengage the door handle pull rod. Once your custom pull rod is made & installed on your latch assembly you will need to walk it back around the window channel to get it in place but before tightening it down be sure to attach the door handle pull rod now you can bolt in latch & door pull. Next thread the solenoid onto the pull rod you made and bolt it in place.
Here's the link to jimmydean's install - starting @ post #34

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=397705&page=2

From his pics I did pretty much the same thing but using a GM lock solenoid.

[pimpston65]

thks for notice'n my build. well i can sum it up in 2 words "oem custom" when i started my build in 98' i had always seen guys build hotrod cars never trucks so much, so i searched high and low for the perfect truck. yet at the same time i was into the lowrider scene. so once i started planning which way i wanted to go i combined the two, while keeping it all stock as much as i can, just to keep its value up in the off chance i sold it. i wanted to sell a truck that if the buyer was looking for an all original truck mine would fit the bill. as you've seen really only thing that needs to be done is strip the custom color, repaint or powder coat correct colors and bam you have a full on oem correct truck and with all my parts win a ton of awards. plus im an odd bird myself always looking for whats hot while keeping the old stuff alive thats all, thks for taking note!!!! ps i finally got me an offset mounted mirror yea!!!!