Another way to skin the cat; the High Torque 292 LS swap

[ls1nova71]

Haha, I always second guess myself when I take a perfectly good running vehicle apart too! Looks killer though, the stance is right on!

[smbrouss70]

Ummm, Yeah, we definitely need a lot more info on that sweet little 68!

[ERASER5]

And a few more of engine mods, like that sweet oil fill tube!

[Red Foreman]

I just stumbled across this build, awesome work on the LS!
The throttle body/air cleaner has given me ideas on my next future build.
Keep up the great work!

[65 c10 project]

I'm very impressed with the truck, great job.
I have a few questions though.
How is the throttle set up? Throttle by wire or cable?
I am wanting the same swap but with a manual trans in my '65, since I'm going with a manual trans I won't need any speed sensors Etcettera so I'm thinking of going with a standalone ECU. Is that something you would recommend?
I think a standalone ECU would make it a lot easier to wire.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Red Foreman

I just stumbled across this build, awesome work on the LS!
The throttle body/air cleaner has given me ideas on my next future build.
Keep up the great work!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by 65 c10 project

I'm very impressed with the truck, great job.
I have a few questions though.
How is the throttle set up? Throttle by wire or cable?
I am wanting the same swap but with a manual trans in my '65, since I'm going with a manual trans I won't need any speed sensors Etcettera so I'm thinking of going with a standalone ECU. Is that something you would recommend?
I think a standalone ECU would make it a lot easier to wire.

The throttle is DBW. On the ECU, I've never dealt with an aftermarket unit. Due to the sheer number of them out there, factory truck computers/harnesses are fairly cheap and they're very reliable. For those reasons, I've always used OEM parts.

[65 c10 project]

Originally Posted by dayj1

Thanks!



The throttle is DBW. On the ECU, I've never dealt with an aftermarket unit. Due to the sheer number of them out there, factory truck computers/harnesses are fairly cheap and they're very reliable. For those reasons, I've always used OEM parts.

Ok, thank you for the info.

[Low Elco]

That gold one is gonna be niiiiiice when you get it put together.

[DarkKnightWong]

I just stumbled across this build! Awesome build! I have a 69 Stepside Im trying to fix up when I have free time.

I was wondering how you did the lights on your gauges ? Looks like washer and some light socket ..

Could you explain a little more on what you are doing ?

Thanks!!
Allen

Originally Posted by dayj1

My gauges look stock, but I converted the speedometer to an S10 electric speedo similar to the way ls1nova does it and I used a volt and oil pressure gauge out of a square body ('86) cluster with the '72 faces on them.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by DarkKnightWong

I just stumbled across this build! Awesome build! I have a 69 Stepside Im trying to fix up when I have free time.

I was wondering how you did the lights on your gauges ? Looks like washer and some light socket ..

Could you explain a little more on what you are doing ?

Thanks!!
Allen

Thanks for the kudos.

You pretty much nailed what I did. The existing holes in the housing are made for the twist in sockets. You can get pigtails that fit, but they're about $3 each. Sockets like I used are $7 for 10 but they're just a bit to small to fit in the holes. So I used small machine screws to hold down some washers over the existing holes.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

That gold one is gonna be niiiiiice when you get it put together.

Thanks! I sure hope so. As we all know, it's a lot of work.

[DarkKnightWong]

Originally Posted by dayj1

Thanks for the kudos.

You pretty much nailed what I did. The existing holes in the housing are made for the twist in sockets. You can get pigtails that fit, but they're about $3 each. Sockets like I used are $7 for 10 but they're just a bit to small to fit in the holes. So I used small machine screws to hold down some washers over the existing holes.

That sounds perfect, do you have a link to sockets or a picture of just them ? I need to order some before I put my gauges back in the truck.

Thanks for the quick response and info.

[dec010974]

Dayj1, my hero, the smartest guy I know, I have a few questions. This pic looks shorter than your first set up. i want the sbc look. can you explain the reason why? I'm in the middle of this swap, on a 1980 gmc c15. i have a 4.8/4l60e, stock harness, and i have two options, the 4150 throttle body, or the thingy, figamabob, you created. my figamabob is an 1 inch thick, to compensate, for the tall fuel injectors. help me out and explain the madness. thanks in advance, Clark.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by DarkKnightWong

That sounds perfect, do you have a link to sockets or a picture of just them ?

This is what I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251416930819 They just pop into a round hole but they required the washers that you asked about to provide holes small enough for them to fit.

There are some other possibilities out there. Search for "194 pigtail" and you'll see sockets with various mounting arrangements. Maybe there is something that will work better.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by dec010974

Dayj1, my hero, the smartest guy I know, I have a few questions. This pic looks shorter than your first set up. i want the sbc look. can you explain the reason why? I'm in the middle of this swap, on a 1980 gmc c15. i have a 4.8/4l60e, stock harness, and i have two options, the 4150 throttle body, or the thingy, figamabob, you created. my figamabob is an 1 inch thick, to compensate, for the tall fuel injectors. help me out and explain the madness. thanks in advance, Clark.

The difference in the setup on the blue '72 and the gold '68 is mostly in the air cleaner base. The base on the '72 started life as a stock '86 C10 air cleaner and is what I'll call a "flat" base because the bottom of the air cleaner element is vertically at the same height as the air cleaner flange on the throttle body. The '68 has a "drop base" air cleaner which is 1.5" below the flange. It doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big visual difference.

I'll probably end up using a taller element in the air cleaner (4" instead of 3") to provide enough room to squeeze a MAF in there like the setup on the '72. However, I do like the look of the shorter air cleaner and might just ditch the MAF and go with a speed density tune.

Also, the adapter that goes from the 4150 flange on the intake to the 3 bolt factory 5.3 TB is 1/2" tall in my case. That allows the plug on the TB to just barely clear the fuel rail with factory truck injectors (standard injectors and not taller flex fuel injectors). This would be a non issue if had the foresight to make the adapter in such a way that the TB was turned 90 degrees and the electrical connector pointed toward the rear of the engine. Hindsight is always 20/20

The TB that you pictured is by far the easiest way to do this if you can absorb the cost. A cheaper way would be to buy one of the readily available adapters for a GM TBI throttle body to 4150 flange and use a TBI unit with the injector pod removed. It won't flow as much air as the Holley unit, but that shouldn't be an issue with a stock 4.8/5.3/6.0.

I hope that helps to answer your questions.

[darkhorse970]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

Every time this thread pops up, it makes me want to rip the 5.3/4l60e out of my old '99 that is just sitting there and drop it in the Blazer looking similar to this. Unfortunately, I have too much money wrapped up in a new SBC to abandon that course. I just love the look and functionality of this, maybe on the next one.

I agree, this thread REALLY makes me want to go this route with my '63!

[Jkmyers84]

I'm curious about keeping everything with the stock tank need pics reloaded!

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Jkmyers84

I'm curious about keeping everything with the stock tank need pics reloaded!

I'm too lazy to go back through this thread and fix all the links after the photobucket boondogle, but here are the tank related pics.

[dayj1]

and more...

[Blumenthal4]

DayJ1, I'm in the process of a similar build. Trying to figure out how to run the pcv system. How did you run yours?

[OutlawDrifter]

Originally Posted by Blumenthal4

DayJ1, I'm in the process of a similar build. Trying to figure out how to run the pcv system. How did you run yours?

Easiest/fastest way is to use a breather in one of the valve covers and then use an LS6 valley cover for the PCV and run it back to the throttle body.

[scoot_mcgrute]

Originally Posted by OutlawDrifter

Easiest/fastest way is to use a breather in one of the valve covers and then use an LS6 valley cover for the PCV and run it back to the throttle body.

I'm curious to know a little more about this. I put an LS1 intake on my 5.3 and didn't have any of the PCV hoses except from the passenger valve cover to the throttle body. I capped everything else off and am running a breather on the driver side valve cover. I'm getting some smoke out the tailpipe under hard acceleration and deceleration and I'm wondering if that could be a factor.

Sorry to hijack the thread but here's a picture of the smoke out the tailpipe.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Blumenthal4

DayJ1, I'm in the process of a similar build. Trying to figure out how to run the pcv system. How did you run yours?

The clean side of the PCV went from a fitting that I drilled and tapped in the side of the throttle body above the throttle blade in photo 1 to a fitting that I put in the rear of the passenger's side valve cover (photos 2 and 3).

The dirty side went from a vacuum fitting (the brass fitting in the intake just below and behind the carb mounting flange in photo 4) to a PCV valve in the driver's valve cover (photo 5). The PCV valve is the revised "fixed orifice" style for the early trucks and isn't really a valve. I have a vacuum tee fitting on it, because I ran the vacuum line over to the brake booster as well.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by OutlawDrifter

Easiest/fastest way is to use a breather in one of the valve covers and then use an LS6 valley cover for the PCV and run it back to the throttle body.

That'll work for a speed density system. But, if you're running a MAF, the air entering the PCV system should be metered. Otherwise, you essentially have a vacuum leak.

[OutlawDrifter]

Originally Posted by dayj1

That'll work for a speed density system. But, if you're running a MAF, the air entering the PCV system should be metered. Otherwise, you essentially have a vacuum leak.

True statement. I am running speed density on my '49.