Newbie thinking about diving into a '65 GMC 1000

[jtrichard]

I could be wrong but you might be thinking to "NEW" what you described "no vacuum" at idle is ported vacuum thought that was like 70s?

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

I could be wrong but you might be thinking to "NEW" what you described "no vacuum" at idle is ported vacuum thought that was like 70s?

I'm no expert here, but I believe my Rochester Model B only has one vacuum outlet and it is ported, so that at idle, it doesn't advance the distributor. Otherwise I have another problem because if I disconnect that vacuum line from distributor and hook it up to a gauge it pulls zero vacuum at idle.

So I'm thinking either I overlooking a vacuum outlet on my carb, or when it says "manifold vacuum", it means I am supposed to have a vacuum connection somewhere on my casted intake manifold, which I am unable to find.

[TJ's Chevy]

Screw the A/F screw In until the the engine struggles...then back it out until Max rpm is reached Once max RPM is reached give it another 1/4 turn out and re-adjust idle if needed.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

Yes, it does have the "I".

I= Contains 6 cylinder engine(230,250,292).

10= model 1000

01= 115 inch wheelbase

Z= Manufactured at the Fremont, CA plant.

3910= was number 3910 to roll out of the plant.

A= GVW of Up to 6000 pounds.

So it is a 6 cylinder truck. Looks like someone may have special ordered a larger radiator or something else.

[Praxiss454]

Okay I think I figured out the manifold vacuum part from my shop manual. I believe I am supposed to unhook the line from the PCV on the top of my valve cover which goes to a port directly underneath the carb on the intake manifold. That must be the place I hook up the vacuum gauge to rather than the venturi vacuum port on the carb that goes to the distributor advance.

TJ's Chevy - thanks for describing the baseline mixture I should start with, that was another question I had.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

Okay I think I figured out the manifold vacuum part from my shop manual. I believe I am supposed to unhook the line from the PCV on the top of my valve cover which goes to a port directly underneath the carb on the intake manifold. That must be the place I hook up the vacuum gauge to rather than the venturi vacuum port on the carb that goes to the distributor advance.

TJ's Chevy - thanks for describing the baseline mixture I should start with, that was another question I had.

Correct, you hook the gauge to the pcv port on the carb. With the way I described you actually don't Need to use a gauge, but it will aid in adjustments.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Correct, you hook the gauge to the pcv port on the carb. With the way I described you actually don't need to use a gauge, but it will aid in adjustments.

Well I used the gauge, but probably could have arrived at the same result just following your tips. Got her dialed in now, running much better. Now I can move on to safety issues to get her road worthy.

Safety Hit List:
1. Figure out why I have a strong fuel smell in cabin when running
2. Service the brakes all around - they are functional but she dives to the right a little bit when I brake.
3. Clean up the steering wheel play as much as possible
4. Seat Belts - I have brackets on the floor for lap belts but I think I want to go with 3 point belts
5. Brake lights and turn signals

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

Well I used the gauge, but probably could have arrived at the same result just following your tips. Got her dialed in now, running much better. Now I can move on to safety issues to get her road worthy.

Safety Hit List:
1. Figure out why I have a strong fuel smell in cabin when running
2. Service the brakes all around - they are functional but she dives to the right a little bit when I brake.
3. Clean up the steering wheel play as much as possible
4. Seat Belts - I have brackets on the floor for lap belts but I think I want to go with 3 point belts
5. Brake lights and turn signals

Good to know she runs well.

The strong fuel smell is more than likely the sending unit gasket is rotted out. New ones are available. Also the filler neck hose is probably hard and leaking fuel when you pour it in the tank. Mine leaks a bit in my GMC and it drives me nuts but I have't had the desire to do what it takes to fix the dumb thing because of where they Had to place it. lol

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

The strong fuel smell is more than likely the sending unit gasket is rotted out. New ones are available. Also the filler neck hose is probably hard and leaking fuel when you pour it in the tank.

Yeah, it seems like it must be the gasket on the sending unit, or the neck hose. The cab doesn't smell like gas after sitting overnight, so there's something about movement that makes it worse. I wonder if it isn't the neck hose and whether the smell only happens after I turn and gas sloshes up into the filler area. I also notice the gas tank has a vented cap, which I am not sure it should, so possibly I'm just smelling fumes from the vented cap. Though the smell is pretty damn strong.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

Yeah, it seems like it must be the gasket on the sending unit, or the neck hose. The cab doesn't smell like gas after sitting overnight, so there's something about movement that makes it worse. I wonder if it isn't the neck hose and whether the smell only happens after I turn and gas sloshes up into the filler area. I also notice the gas tank has a vented cap, which I am not sure it should, so possibly I'm just smelling fumes from the vented cap. Though the smell is pretty damn strong.

Sounds like the filler neck for sure. My GMC is bad at that. haha Every time I fill up and the gas sloshes I can feel back there with my hand and it is wet under the filler. And I have the clamp on stinkin tight. I have new hose and clamps, but just haven't gotten the time or desire to fix it. Only way I know how is to pull the stinkin tank out!

[jtrichard]

CAP has to be vented or truck NO run

[Praxiss454]

Cleaning out the interior a bit. First I pulled off the saddle blanket...



Then I pulled off two different faux fur seat covers...



Underneath it all was this vinyl, which is in pretty good shape except for right under the driver seat, where the seat springs are also broken. No idea if this is original.



While I was in there I also found that I have lap belt attachment points on the floor for driver/passenger/middle seat. This is nice because I intend to put belts back in, but probably 3 point belts.

[Praxiss454]

Looks like my seat back might be original after all, but the bench seat probably not.

Today I replaced the front left wheel cylinder, which leaked brake fluid all over my newly painted wheel. I bought all 4 wheel cylinders and will do the rest this week just to get them out of the way, since when one goes, the others may not be far behind. I also need to find a local shop that will measure the drums and machine them if there is enough material left.

Those drum brake springs can be a pain in the ....

[jtrichard]

Originally Posted by Praxiss454

Looks like my seat back might be original after all, but the bench seat probably not.

Today I replaced the front left wheel cylinder, which leaked brake fluid all over my newly painted wheel. I bought all 4 wheel cylinders and will do the rest this week just to get them out of the way, .

Agree on seat and DO the master cylinder also

[Praxiss454]

Going to take the brake drums to a local machine shop to measure and hopefully machine them, presuming there is enough material. Hope to finish that this Thursday.

Another thing I need to sort out is the seat. There are some broken springs but I'm not entirely sure how the thing is supposed to look when not broken. In the picture below, circles 1 and 2 appear to be unbroken ends that just came disconnected from somewhere, perhaps down at the main frame of the seat. Circle 3 is obviously broken and and 4 is unclasped, and I think I see how those are supposed to hook together.



The seat foam itself is in pretty poor shape, and is deteriorating. I think I can pick up some 2" or 2.5" firm foam from a local shop and contour it to replace the stock foam. Debating whether to replace the seat cover or just patch the damaged area. I think it'd kinda look silly to have a fancy new seat cover in an otherwise old and beat up looking truck. Plus I have a perfectly good saddle blanket cover from the previous owner.

[Praxiss454]

A little blurry, but does this look right? This is the passenger side rear brake, so the front of the truck is to the right in this picture. I wasn't smart enough to take a picture before disassembling, and I tried to do it from memory / from the shop manual.

I put the shorter shoe toward the front of the truck, and star adjuster is toward the rear. The emergency brake assembly is also toward the rear. I did not pull the hub because I did not want to replace the 1 week old gear oil in the rear end.

[stacerbob]

Brakes look good from what I see

[jtrichard]

Everything looks good but you should squeeze the upper end of the front spring down (close it some) other than that looks great

[Praxiss454]

Thanks guys, it was a bit of a pain to get things set so I second guessed myself. New cylinders, shoes, and drum surfaces all around. Also replaced a cracked hose. Unfortunately gotta get my new rear drums machined to fit (see the "rear brake dilemma" thread) so I wont be able to take her to the classic car gathering in the morning.

[jtrichard]

Throw the old drums on and go

['63GENIII]

Not sure how I missed this thread. All I can say is wow! You're well on your way to having a very functional truck with all of the character you could ever ask for. Great job getting her running again! Im on board and tuned in now!

One more thing, I have to hand it too you for keeping it as original as you can. IMO, the hard way, the right way.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

Throw the old drums on and go

Too late. I haven't figured out how to bleed the brakes without a helper.

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

Not sure how I missed this thread. All I can say is wow! You're well on your way to having a very functional truck with all of the character you could ever ask for. Great job getting her running again! Im on board and tuned in now!

One more thing, I have to hand it too you for keeping it as original as you can. IMO, the hard way, the right way.

Thanks, it's coming along, but lots more to do.

[Praxiss454]

Trying to get my seat sorted out so you don't fall out the door when driving down the road. I was able to fix the broken springs shown in the picture above w/ some ferrule and spring steel bent into shape. But it looks like I have at least 2-3 broken main seat springs (pic below borrowed from forum member myoldchevytruck's post in another thread)

What is this spring called? I'm having a hell of a time finding them any anywhere on any auto parts or upholstery store and with the coiled end at the back, I don't think I could reproduce it on my own out of spring steel.

[Praxiss454]

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

Get rid of the excess rubber fuel line a route it as original in steel.

How did it run as original? I don't like how mine runs across the top of the valve cover. However, I do like having a fuel filter in line, but I could relocate that down under the cab where the PO had spliced in an electric fuel pump, which is now removed.

Originally Posted by aerotruk63

The additional lights below the taillights are not original. Could be covered up with original reflectors.

Those weren't a factory option at all? They are wired as lights currently, not sure if turn signals or running/parking lights. I haven't looked at the housing at all to see what kind of install job it is.

[Praxiss454]

Anyone know how I make these wipers work? It doesn't seem to clip on at all. Makes me think I am missing an adapter on the end of the arm.

Arm:


Blade: