1974 C20 Soon to become a project...

[funkatation]

I've got my engine all apart at the moment and will start polishing my billet accessories now. It didn't work very well doing it by hand. Had I known it was going to be so hard to keep them looking nice I'd have gone with black powder coated ones.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by funkatation

I've got my engine all apart at the moment and will start polishing my billet accessories now. It didn't work very well doing it by hand. Had I known it was going to be so hard to keep them looking nice I'd have gone with black powder coated ones.

I know there is a clear coat just for polished aluminum but I can't remember what it is at the moment. My powder coater has a "chrome" powder that could be used on the billet as well. Then there is triple plated chrome...

It's a shame to spend a lot of money on Billet and then have to cover it in something... I think I need to install some inner fender skirts to help with keeping the road grime out of the engine bay as much as possible. Parking outside doesn't help either.

[Super_Dave]

One decorative feature that is still up in the air, is what to do about the dash badge and fender badges.

Initially we were going with the whole Baba Yaga thing, but that has faded for a host of reasons, so we are thrashing out other ideas. Once we decide, I will mill up an aluminum dash badge to go in the trim panel recess and larger copies to go on the front fenders.

We talked about GO ROGUE a year or so ago... but then the Star Wars movie came out... so not sure about that idea.

[Super_Dave]

Well... I was able to solve part of the Voltage gauge fluttering between 15.5 and 18 and the Stereo and Climate Control working intermittently.

The new Alternator from SUMMIT was bad. That's the third new part from SUMMIT that was a piece of crap. $141 later, a new NAPA alternator is in and I am pulling 14.5 steadily.

The intermittent stereo and cc was traced to a bad (new SUMMIT part) ignition switch module on the column... which was replaced in the wiring harness install a few weeks ago. We adjusted the ignition switch enough for the stereo and cc to work but starting the engine became nearly impossible. Backing off the adjustment made starting easier, but we lose the stereo and cc fan... so, a new NAPA ignition switch is on order.

Lastly, after installing the new, warmed over 700r4 OD transmission, and hoping to go from 12 mpg to the mid-high teens, has proved disastrous. I was getting 12 mpg with the TH350... and my last tank with the 700r4 netted me a whopping 7.91 mpg! Well worth the $2,500 investment, right ?!

We have checked everything fuel related... no leaks anywhere, timing is 12°, idle 750rpm, 3:73 rear gears should be optimal with the .67 OD final ratio... should have me in about 2.50 at cruising speed...

So, I am at a complete loss as to where the mileage is going. Speedometer and tach are spot on, so I know my numbers are accurate. At this rate, it would take me about 5 tanks of gas, or $200+ to go from Portland to the California border. Hardly worth the effort to take it out to even go to the post office.

[Super_Dave]

Well. . . finally making headway.

1. The new NAPA Alternator nearly burned the '74 to the ground! Stunk up the whole neighborhood. Got it warrantied out and got the project running again.

2. Sold the can-o-pee in preparation for a hard tonneau cover.

3. Took a couple steps back, when a neighbor, driving his girlfriends BMW, decided my new chrome bumper, brackets and license plate holder/light, would look better on the front of his car, than the back of my truck. Still arguing with their insurance company on the settlement.

[rusty76]

Nice list of parts. Have you had good luck with Top Banana parts before? I’m going to be looking into some replacement pieces before long. Looking good.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Nice list of parts. Have you had good luck with Top Banana parts before? I’m going to be looking into some replacement pieces before long. Looking good.

I have never purchased from Top Banana before. From what I was able to determine, Top Banana was a joint venture between a couple of companies, at least one of which was a company founded by a member of the forum.

In discussions with the people at Top Banana, they only buy from the best manufacturers of reproduction parts. Their quality has been supported by other forum members who have purchased parts both before and after the joint venture. So, we will see.

As an aside, I had a discussion with AMD about their parts and was told that the quality of parts in the 73-87 segment are not as good as the 72 and older segment. . . regardless of who manufacturers them.

I suspect there may be some semblance of truth to that assertion, given the enormous amount of parts for the pre-73 group compared to those available to the 73-87 crowd. I suspect "demand dictates quality" in terms of tooling investment, etc.

[rusty76]

I see that several 60-66 guys use their parts and never knew they offered anything for the 73-87 guys. Just good to know of other suppliers. Thanks for the input.

[Super_Dave]

Worked on the '74 today.

Both doors are stripped and in surprisingly good shape. The drivers door shows signs of having been worked on previously.


The cab is stripped of fenders, doors, hinges, seat. . . engine bay lost the brake booster and master cylinder which has been painted gloss black. All hinges were rebuilt and sandblasted.


We had to cut one of the hinge pins to get it out, as it had gotten seriously bent. One thing we ran into, was some of hinge pins we received, had two different knurled profiles under the head of the pin. One had a shoulder and the knurl was straight up and down. The other had a tapered knurl area that was flush with the pin body. If you find that your new hinge pins will NOT go into the bushing that last 1/2 inch. . . it's because of the straight, shouldered knurled design. You need the tapered style.


I had always thought that the passenger fender was aftermarket, due to a bump-n-run (there was a missing hole for the center rubber hood bumper). Well, that suspicion was driven home, as you can see on the cowl. Pretty serious dent. Didn't hurt the heater or affect the door jamb or hinges. Seems it was a pretty concise impact by something. In any event, I will not be repairing that part of the cowl right now, for financial reasons and because it will be out of fight under the fender. Later, funds allowing, I may get if fixed.


The Top Banana sheetmetal has yet to arrive, so it's sand the cab and get it ready for primer.

[Super_Dave]

The gas tank is still somewhat undecided.

We were initially dropping down through the bed rail, then come under the bed and over the frame rail (as seen with the 2x4). This approach, which is doable, will require cutting the filler neck on the tank and rotating it 90° to point it toward the back. This will require one or two 90° elbows to go from the neck to the fill tube in the bed side. It's a lot more work, but in the end, it may be our only choice.

However, since the tank is square, we are looking at rotating the tank 90° and coming out through the rear frame cross rail and behind the license plate. It will require a small notch in the cross rail. This choice will be a direct, straight line fill tube to the neck. . . maybe. The tank flanges will require running the tank straps side to side and connect them to the lower part of the frame rails. This is perfect, as it won't require making any additional cross members for the tank. The part of the tank below the neck, fits nice and snug below the lip of the rear cross rail.

Again, it depends on the location of the bumper and flip-down license plate holder in relation to the neck. Once the new rear bumper arrives, we will double and triple check the tank neck location to see if we still get the downward angle we need and still keep the gas tank neck away from the bed floor.

We can go lower with the tank if needed, but there is a point of no return, where the tank is too low and will not only show too much, but risk being damaged. If that's the case, it's back to plan A.

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by rusty76

I see that several 60-66 guys use their parts and never knew they offered anything for the 73-87 guys. Just good to know of other suppliers. Thanks for the input.

Well, so far, here is my experience with Top Banana:

1. Ordered repair panels on the 12th.

2. Ordered a complete rear bumper and bracket assembly on the 12th.

3. I received an Order Conformation listing the bumper as ordered NOT back ordered

4. EVERYTHING was listed as "In Stock" on their website.

5. Six (6) days later, no confirmation email that the order has shipped and no tracking number(s).

6. Called the Top Banana Support line and was told the parts shipped on the 15th.

7. Asked why I never received a Tracking Number as promised and was told to contact UPS for a tracking number and to check my Spam Folder. End of conversation.

8. UPS says to get the tracking number from the seller (which I already knew but humored TB anyway.)

9. Emailed TB Support for the tracking numbers and let them know what UPS said.

10. Received an email with two tracking numbers and a notification that the rear bumper was on back order.

11. Called TB Support and asked about the Back Ordered Bumper and why it was listed as "In Stock" and when they expected a shipment. Was told that the shipment would not arrive until the end of the month, making it three (3) plus more weeks before I see the bumper. No explanation about the "In Stock" status.

12. Not happy about the back order, I responded to TB Support via email, regarding the bumper being listed as "In Stock" at the time of the order.

13. I also stated that if I knew from the beginning that the bumper was a Back Order Item taking four (4) weeks from my order date to arrive, I would have gone with another vendor who sells the same parts from the same manufacturers. As it is, the bumper is holding up half of our custom work we needed to get done. Expressed my disappointment in their service.

14. I asked if they were able to expedite the shipment to me once they received their order and that I didn't want to be charged for the expedited delivery since their website is in error and they failed miserably to communicate with me.

15. I further stated that, if they could not expedite, was it possible to cancel the order so I could order from another supplier.

16. I received an email stating they do not do expedited shipping and that they canceled the back order and would refund the price back to my card, along with an adjustment in the shipping.

So. . . now I am back to ordering the bumper from another comparable supplier. . . to see if we can get this project back under steam.

Word to the wise: When communication breaks down early, like it did with Top Banana, stay on top of the vendor like white on rice. If you don't and you are under the gun like we are, you will lose a lot of valuable time!

[rusty76]

Thanks for the info.

[Super_Dave]

Go a lot done. Forgot to take photos today. I will be heading back next week, and will try to take more then.

The cab is stripped and prepped for primer.

The doors had all the trim holes welded up, ground, primed and sanded.

The rockers and toe kicks arrived from Top Banana. I am a tad pissed, as I asked specifically if the floor repair parts I was looking at would cover the first inch and a half of the floor from the rocker. I was told it would "cover 2-2.5" of the floor." So, I ordered one for both sides. . . surprise! it only covers about 3/4" to 7/8" of the floor! So, it was yet another Top Banana Delay as we had to order the larger floor repair panels, from Classic Industries this time. So, no rocker repair this week. I am officially done with Top Banana Peel.

We got the AMD Bumper from Summit (who, by the way, does not sell the bolts to attach said bumper. . . go figure) and attached it with half of the stainless bolts I had to buy from ACE Hardware.

We mocked up the 25 gallon Blazer gas tank one last time. It looks like we will be able to do the hidden gas cap behind the license plate after all. So, we cut the neck off the tank and loaded both parts into my Silverado for the 90 mile trip home.

My buddy, Erick, will reattach the neck to the radius on the edge of the tank. We will raise the tank up to within 1.5" of the frame, where we will drill into the frame and run the tank straps from side to side.

We will notch the bottom of the cross brace for the neck to clear, then run the rubber gas supply hose from the neck, to the hidden pop-up gas cap behind the license plate. I am real pleased with how little the gas tank will be visible from behind. Once we paint it with the new Eastwood Invisible Paint, you will never see the inch and a half that shows below the frame.

I have a set of 1990 Chevy OEM Electric Mirrors coming from New Mexico. They are an excellent blend of the OEM Chrome monsters and a more traditional mirror. I am really stoked to find them. I got the control switch, both pigtails and connectors and about 18 inches of wiring from the switch to splice into the main harness. . . all for $135.

I never knew about these mirrors until I stumbled across an old thread from 2011 with someone selling a couple sets. There wasn't a lot of interest but it was exactly what I was looking for, so I went on a mission to find some and within a week, I had a pair located.

Anyway. . . sorry for the lack of photo-documentation. I will definitely get a lot next week when I head down with the mirrors. I will also get some photos of Erick doing his thing with the electric metal stitcher when he starts necking with my Blazer gas tank.

[Super_Dave]

I got the 1990 electric mirrors today. Had to tighten up some screws and now the bodies are nice and tight.

The drivers glass need to be replaced at some point and I found new glass for $22, so I don't suspect it will be too difficult. The passenger side didn't have the warning though, so the reflection is going to be the same as the normal drivers side.

The passenger side has that warning about objects being closer. The glass is in good shape but the very bottom lip is starting to show some loss of the silver backing, so I hope I can find a new one with the same image characteristics.

The control knob is a simple R-L switch and a joy stick, so I will need to get creative as to the mounting. After we test the wiring, if we find that the joy stick toast, and I can't find any reasonable replacement, the mirrors work really well manually.

[Super_Dave]

I haven't been to the shop in a couple of weeks. I have been busy getting the gas tank neck relocated and the mirrors refurbished before heading down to the shop. . . 90 miles is a bit of a haul just to say 'hi."

From the updates I have received, all the floor and kick panels are replaced and both doors are in primer.

I have received the FatMat sound deadener and will take it down with the gas tank and mirrors.

Here is the gas tank after we relocated the neck to come out behind the license plate. I will hopefully make a trip to the pick-n-pull and find a flip down holder for the license plate this week. I am also hoping the gas tank is welded this week, as that's the last thing that we need to get mounted and dialed in, before painting the frame.

From there, it's prime the cab and run the gas lines. . . then wait for warm enough weather to spray the black paint. . .

[Super_Dave]

While I am waiting on the gas tank to be welded by a buddy. . . I have a huge wiring need where my mirrors are concerned.

Anyone that may be able to help; I have a thread started in the ELECTRICAL Forum here:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...03#post8187603

[rusty76]

Sweet deal on the mirrors.

[Super_Dave]

Well, it's been a while since the last post.

The old guys doing the body and paint, had to pull back for a while. The younger one (74) was diagnosed with Prostate Cancer. It took about 6 weeks for the final diagnosis. Since then, it's been radiation 5 days a week for two months. There is about a month to go. During that time, they, understandably, took time away from everything.

About a week ago, they contacted me and said they wanted to get back on the project. It would be good therapy for Larry. So I gave the go-ahead, as long as it doesn't have a negative impact on Larry's treatment and healing process.

I have a wedding to attend in Bellingham, Washington this weekend. When I return, I will be making the 90 mile drive to deliver the modified gas tank, 1990 Blazer Electric Mirrors and a few other parts.

I am at a standstill on rebuilding the wing-window assemblies. I have them disassembled and starting to clean them up. . . but it's a toss-up to spend the time making them right or buying a good set of used assemblies and rebuilding them instead. Something hit the glass frame on the driver side and dented it pretty good. I got it straightened pretty good but the black snap on trim piece was also dented and I can't find any replacement ones. I have a lead on a clean set of wing frame assemblies for a good price, but really need the long door braces, especially for the driver side.

Also have a lead on a full set of rebuilt assemblies including new rubber and felt. . . $250-$300. So, in the interest of time and chasing parts, I might have to pull the trigger. All the rubber and felt for a rebuild is right around $100. Add another $30 for rivets and new springs, washers, etc. Then I would still need the door braces and the driver side black snap-on metal trim piece. . . I could also spend another $60 for the clean set of wing frames black trim, which pencils out at around $200 and still needing the brace.

LMC wants $400 for two wing assemblies without braces. . . and they have been out of stock on one or both for months. So, $250-$300 for a complete set of rebuilt assemblies. . . starts to sound pretty good.

[Super_Dave]

I have wing window assemblies in hand. Another member, Zack Seff, had started a business rebuilding OEM assemblies but, after some "interesting" interactions with other members, rolled up his tent.

That's a crying shame too, because there are precious few out there that can, or will, rehab OEM wing window assemblies for a reasonable price. That leaves people to rehab their own, with questionable results - while complaining about how hard it is and how long it took - or going after-market Chinese, which cost you your left nut for Chinese quality and has all kinds of fitment issues - which also gets complained about.

So why anyone would harangue an American for rehabbing OEM product and charging a VERY reasonable price. . . boggles my mind.

Now: on to my wing window assemblies.

I received them yesterday afternoon. I had received advance photos of the completed assemblies and was very anxious to see them firsthand.

I opened the box and peeled away the ample bubble wrap. I was stunned: Zack's work is nothing short of amazing! These photos DO NOT do them justice.

All the new hardware, frames and door supports are powder-coated to perfection. The rubber is soft and supple and all the rivets looked just like the factory had done them, because he uses the proper equipment to set them.

I can say unabashedly, that these wing window assemblies put the Factory OEM to shame. They are by far, one of the best things that will be on my truck when it's done. It was money well spent and DIDN'T cost an arm and a leg.

THANK YOU ZACK for being willing to do this for my build. If I ever have need again (and it looks like I will) I am calling you, my friend!

[Super_Dave]

The truck now has the rear mounted gas tank installed and gas lines are being run. The filler neck will be coming out the back, behind a Camaro flip down license plate holder on the new OEM bumper.

All the bodywork is done; primed and blocked and ready for black base coat. My friends are out Tuna fishing and we will be looking at sometime mid-August to squirt color and clear.

I started a thread in the Paint section where we thoroughly thrashed the best method to "match" the black on the new parts I purchased, with the black that was going on the cab, doors and fenders.

Since trying to "match" the black would yield questionable results even with the best efforts, the consensus was to scuff the clear coat on the already painted parts I bought, with 800 grit, and lay down a couple coats of black base. Then lay two or three coats of black base on the cab, doors and fenders. Follow that with several coats of clear and buff.

During this discussion, I was referred to SPI products. I called the owner, Barry, and he spent at least 30 minutes politely educating me on the subtle in's and out's of painting and what constitutes a good quality paint verses an expensive paint.

I was initially given the choice between OMNI at $179/gallon and Deltorn at $728/gallon. After talking to Barry, and having a much clearer picture of what constitutes "quality" in making paint, I asked him to give me a recommended shopping list of products to re-coat the whole truck in black base and clear it. Within 10 minutes, Barry had emailed me the list and pricing: $547 for EVERYTHING!

Now, price plays a role, but more importantly, the quality and real-world applications are what sold me. The Pebble Beach Concourse winner used the Black base and clear from SPI. Each month (or as often as they are held), as many as 40-50+ vehicles at the worlds best high-end auctions have used SPI's products. . . many cars that sell well into the six figures.

So, if it's good enough for these people, its good enough for me. Barry has turned the paint world on its head, by supplying superior product at value pricing.

Now, I am REAL excited to get this project on its final leg home to completion, with new paint and clear all around. I will be driving the 90 miles to the shop on Thursday next week, to document the gas tank and get before paint photos and deliver my AMAZING wing window assemblies.

I hope to post several updates a week from now, with photos, that show what all has been done over the past few months.

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https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=768525

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[cal30_sniper]

Originally Posted by Super_Dave

I have wing window assemblies in hand. Another member, Zack Seff, had started a business rebuilding OEM assemblies but, after some "interesting" interactions with other members, rolled up his tent.

Those vent windows look great. I'd love to know where he gets quality rubber from. The 89-91 design has a much improved vent window seal, but when I rebuilt mine, the new rubber I ordered was garbage. I ended up moisturizing and re-using the original seals, because the reproductions just couldn't be made to fit. The rubber he used in yours looks much better than what I had.

[cal30_sniper]

I love SPI paint. I’ve gone through gallons of their stuff over the last few years. Their Epoxy primers are my go-to for corrosion protection, and the clear they sell is amazing. Good folks to deal with, too.

[blue 72 gmc 4x4]

Thank you for the kind words! Can't wait to see them in your truck!

[Super_Dave]

Originally Posted by blue 72 gmc 4x4

Thank you for the kind words! Can't wait to see them in your truck!

You have no idea. . . !

I am looking forward to the 90 mile drive on Thursday, to document the progress and deliver the wing windows.

The brothers doing the work took a few months off to deal with prostrate cancer and just got back on the horse a couple weeks ago.

When they get back from their fishing trip, there will be a two week window to base/clear the truck before they leave on a month long hunting trip. While fishing, they are discussing my desire to use SPI Black-Black base and Universal Clear. I really hope the answer is OKAY, let's do it!

I HAVE to have it done and back home by the time they go hunting, so I can got onto the other things, like custom exhaust after relocating the gas tank to the rear, the interior, spray in bed lined, custom CNC badging, etc.

I have a goal to put the truck in the Sherwood Cruise'in in June and the Hillsboro 4th of July parade. . .

[Super_Dave]

Heading down to check out the truck in the morning. I heard back from the guys at the shop and they are good to go with using the SPI product, so I am stoked!

We will be ordering all the materials and supplies in the morning and having it shipped direct to their shop. Should be there Saturday or Monday. Looks like we might be on the final leg to getting it back home for all the interior and other small details and then calling it done. . . for a while.

I will update the progress with photos after we return home.