Custom Chassis with canti setup

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by XXL

Is the exhaust tude welded to the frame???

Dude that is an insult even asking that. J/K No I had to open the frame up so I can get the tubing through. What you see are the welds holding the patch I made to close the DOM back up.h

[valleycustom]

Here are some close up pictures. I'm not finished welding it up.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

That is gonna be a tight azz fit...

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by FRENCHBLUE72

That is gonna be a tight azz fit...

It has a 1/2" all the way around. That should be enough once I get the hangers installed.

[72MARIO]

That looks great. Nice work. I used the same manderals to do my 3". Not as trick though....I only have a 1/4" around the frame to 3" tube and it never hits. I have poly motor mounts and tranny mount so there is not much motor twist.

I wish I could have got a X pipe in there but the H will be alot more doable. It's kinda going to be more of a U because of where the duals are placed right now there is no horizontal connection that could work..

[a squarecan]

All I have to ask is; Is there anything you can't do?

I think I couldnt be more amazed after each set of pix you post, but everytime I find myself more amazed! Very nice work! Did you bend all your exhaust or are they pre-bent pieces? If you did it your self what gauge steel did you run?

Keith

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by a squarecan

All I have to ask is; Is there anything you can't do?

I think I couldnt be more amazed after each set of pix you post, but everytime I find myself more amazed! Very nice work! Did you bend all your exhaust or are they pre-bent pieces? If you did it your self what gauge steel did you run?

Keith

Thanks! I use pre bent mandrels on all my exhaust systems. I just cut to fit. Maybe some day when I win the lottery I will get my own mandrel bender. All my exhaust tubing is 16ga.

Later
Jr

[pharcydekm]

LOOKS GOOD! My only question is why not run it straight and go through the frame up ahead rather than make that 90 turn to come through?

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by pharcydekm

LOOKS GOOD! My only question is why not run it straight and go through the frame up ahead rather than make that 90 turn to come through?

I needed to get the two sides together at the X pipe. X pipes I feel work a little better than just an H cross over. It also will look badass when it's finished. If you ride in a car that has a x over and one that doesen't have any x over you can tell the difference in the performance and it makes it a little quieter..

[el curioso]

My only question is why not run it straight and go through the frame up ahead rather than make that 90 turn to come through?

Cuz That would make it to easy and whats a wild frame with a straight exhaust?

[a squarecan]

I didn't realize exhaust's were so beefy.

This leaves me with 2 questions, that is if you don't mind.

1. Where do you recommend getting your exhaust parts from if I guy was to try to build him self an exhaust set-up.

2. what kind of mufflers are thoughs? They look like a race style muffler.

Ok I lied I have 1 more question, does it take a brain sergain to build an exhaust system? I can weld just fine, but is there a certain science to specific bends and such?

Thanks
Keith

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by a squarecan

I didn't realize exhaust's were so beefy.

This leaves me with 2 questions, that is if you don't mind.

1. Where do you recommend getting your exhaust parts from if I guy was to try to build him self an exhaust set-up.

2. what kind of mufflers are thoughs? They look like a race style muffler.

Ok I lied I have 1 more question, does it take a brain sergain to build an exhaust system? I can weld just fine, but is there a certain science to specific bends and such?

Thanks
Keith

I usally get all of my mandrel's from summit. Make sure what you get are 16ga. Hooker sells mandrels but they are 18 or 20 ga. I wouldn't use anything other than 16ga. You can get straight pipe from your local muffler shop. Those mufflers are flowmaster hushpower mufflers. I've never used them before so I'm not sure how they sound. If your just building a system for a daily driver there's no science involved, but if your making a system for a race car that's a different story. I have a box full of bends that I just cut up and weld back together. Making headders is the only thing that is hard. Well not very hard but it takes time. A set of headders can take me a week to build depending on how involved they are.

Later
Jr

[a squarecan]

Thanks again Jr!

You build headers? I am having a hell of a time finding some block huggers headers that will work with the angle plugs on my dart heads. I am not in the market at this exact moment but do you think if the price was right you could possibly build a guy in my situation a set in a month or so?

Thanks
Keith

[valleycustom]

Well I almost have the exhaust system finished. Here are some pictures. Next I will be starting on the headders. YaY

[valleycustom]

A couple more.

[cornutz]

Hey Jr...

You have been busy, looks sweet! I hope to make it by real soon to check things out! been busy with the boy and all!

Keep on truckin as they say

Bill

[XXL]

Originally Posted by valleycustom

A couple more.

If, by chance, you lose a rear trans seal, you're going to know it right away thanks to the auto-smoke leak detector you've got under the tail shaft . Ordinarily I wouldn't be too concerned about placement, but with the canti setup, I'm guessing you've got a fair amount of travel. If the owner decides to drive around while playing with the ride height, you might just see a rear seal problem.

</just saying>

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by XXL

If, by chance, you lose a rear trans seal, you're going to know it right away thanks to the auto-smoke leak detector you've got under the tail shaft . Ordinarily I wouldn't be too concerned about placement, but with the canti setup, I'm guessing you've got a fair amount of travel. If the owner decides to drive around while playing with the ride height, you might just see a rear seal problem.

</just saying>

Why are you trying to pee on my fire or exhaust? J/K Leaks are the #1 thing I hate the most. If it becomes an issue I will fix it.

[bshelton]

My disrespectful comments have been removed.

[low4life1]

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but there shouldnt be a problem with the rear seal because the carrier bearing takes all the stress off of that joint. The driveshaft near the tranny shouldnt move in or out or anything. it just rotates so there shouldnt be any excessive wear no matter what height or how much playing is done.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by low4life1

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but there shouldnt be a problem with the rear seal because the carrier bearing takes all the stress off of that joint. The driveshaft near the tranny shouldnt move in or out or anything. it just rotates so there shouldnt be any excessive wear no matter what height or how much playing is done.

Your right. We shouldn't have a issue with the rear seal. Even so if the seal did go out the system is going to be ceramic coated. This will cut the temp of the sytem down so much I'll be able to hold the pipes while the truck is driving down the street if I really wanted to, but that wouldn't be a good idea. LOL I thought the same thing but I really didn't have any another options. Once we decided to get the system jet coated I felt that there would be an issue with heat.

[XXL]

Please keep your comments respectful of other forum members!

As for valleycustoms, it's obvious you do great work, and I'm guessing you didn't go ape over my question (or if you did, you managed to calm down before posting ). If you consider that there's a LOT of yolk movement in a vehicle with adjustable suspension, and your canti setup looks like you'll have mucho adjustment, my question/concern isn't at all unreasonable. One thing you might consider is simply moving the X back a few inches. In the event of a leak, you won't be completely in the clear, but at least it won't be directly below the seal. Or, as you mentioned... you can leave it as is and deal with it if you actually have a problem.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by XXL

As for valleycustoms, it's obvious you do great work, and I'm guessing you didn't go ape over my question (or if you did, you managed to calm down before posting ). If you consider that there's a LOT of yolk movement in a vehicle with adjustable suspension, and your canti setup looks like you'll have mucho adjustment, my question/concern isn't at all unreasonable. One thing you might consider is simply moving the X back a few inches. In the event of a leak, you won't be completely in the clear, but at least it won't be directly below the seal. Or, as you mentioned... you can leave it as is and deal with it if you actually have a problem.

LOL.. I'm cool... Now with the yolk issue. There isn't going to be any back and forth movement at the tailshaft because it's running a two piece driveline. All the movement will be located at the slip shaft before the center support bearing. I would never run a one piece driveline on something with that much lift. You would pull the driveline right out, and become a flying object while your driving down the road.

[bshelton]

My disrespectful comments have been removed.

[valleycustom]

They sure do.