1972 Chevy 4wd Longhorn Project: Never Ending Changes

[Dieselwrencher]

Well, my Longhorn isn't running anyway. I have no fuel lines hooked up, no trans cooler lines, no shifter linkage, no drive shafts, and etc. This truck isn't close to drivable. It does have working brakes on the front axle only. Plus, I sold the rear axle and it will be coming out this weekend. I'm waiting on a buddy of mine to get me a Dana 80 he owes me, and I will put that in this truck. And another thing I forgot was, I purchased a single disc billet torque converter for this so I'm going to have to remove the trans anyway to install that. Then, I'm going to rebuild this trans because this is one of those, "Yeah it worked great before we pulled it from my truck!" types of deals. I can't justify installing a new TC not knowing the condition of the transmission.

[watahyahknow]

it wouldnt hurt to put in a new filter and atf oil and check for debrees in the pan

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm just going to rebuild it and not take any chances.

[mosesburb]

Sorry to hear about your "negative" progress. That is enough to take the wind out of your sails right there. Hopefully your next motor will be forthcoming soon. Do you have a shop to work in once the "white ground cover" starts falling??

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by mosesburb

Sorry to hear about your "negative" progress. That is enough to take the wind out of your sails right there. Hopefully your next motor will be forthcoming soon. Do you have a shop to work in once the "white ground cover" starts falling??

It's negative progress, but it's ok with me. I want this truck to be super nice soon. I have a different cab that needs some finishing work, new body bushings, and a new fuel system to install in it. I will remove the cab and paint the frame while the engine is out and possibly paint the truck while it is apart. Or atleast edge it and then primer the whole thing to get it going before Christmas this year.

Yes I have a shop to work in, but it is full of fords with cummins in them at the moment. I started a thread about one of them a few days ago in the general discussion area.

[Dieselwrencher]

Well, this past weekend I got a dana 80 3:54 geared posi-lok rear axle for the Longhorn. Dang these things are huge! Now I have to find all the brakes for it. All I have is backing plates. Or maybe I'll just do a disc brake conversion on it. It's hard to tell. I'm leaning towards drums to retain an ebrake and keep it affordable. I'll get pics tomorrow.

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Well, this past weekend I got a dana 80 3:54 geared posi-lok rear axle for the Longhorn. Dang these things are huge! Now I have to find all the brakes for it. All I have is backing plates. Or maybe I'll just do a disc brake conversion on it. It's hard to tell. I'm leaning towards drums to retain an ebrake and keep it affordable. I'll get pics tomorrow.

heres some info on that it might be cheaper than getting the original brakeparts....http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...b_disc_brakes/ it certainly lighter .
from wat i heared chevy 3 quarter ton 4 wheeldrive front disks fit (that is if the dana 80 youre talking about is simulair to a 14 bolt )
the chevy brakecalipers will fit too if you dont mind missing the emergencybrake
if you want the emergencybrake there some sort of cadilac rearbrakecalipers that have them http://info.rockauto.com/Cardone/Detail.html?184138.jpg
the only thing you need next to that are slightly longer lugs (prolly the front ones from a 1 ton 4x4) and to fabricate is the plate to bolt the calipers to the flange of the backingplate or buy them http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...d1546fccecd552

[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks for the info. The 14 bolt stuff won't fit this rear axle because the axle tubes are too big. I found some disc brake parts on ebay for a D80, so I just have to see if I can make those work. Here are some pictures of the D80, and of my billet single disc torque converter.

[Dieselwrencher]

Today I removed my old Dana 60 and was going to install the Dana 80. The only problem with that is, my U-bolt retaining plates for the D80 haven't shown up yet. So that means the poor truck will be resting on jack stands until I recieve them and get the time to place the rear end back under the truck. As for the D60, it's going on a road trip to Albert Lea on saturday.

[Dieselwrencher]

I forgot, here is the original SPID for this truck.

[1985-GMC]

How much stronger do you think a D80 is than a drw D70, because im afraid I might brake mine after I do the cummins swap.

[Dieselwrencher]

Honestly, A LOT! The D70HD's in my mind aren't very strong. My brother broke 4 in his V30 with a 250HP VE 12v. I used to think they were strong, but not now. The D80's live in 650HP pullers for a long time. They have their weak links too, but I have seen them take a heck of a lot of abuse for what they are. 3rd gear boosted launches with 500hp+, many times over. I'd run the D70HD until you can find a D80. They are pricey but if you search you can get a good deal on one.

[1985-GMC]

Thanks, I figured your the guy to ask so I guess ill add a D80 to the list of things I will need. Ill try to swap it out before I brake it so I can make some money back on it.

[Dieselwrencher]

That's a good idea. Unfortunately my brother purchased what he thought was a D80 from a P-30 chassis camper for his V30 project. It is massive with huge disc brakes, 10 lug hubs, huge leaf springs, and a massive sway bar. The unfortunate part is, it is a dang D70HD! I've tried selling it with no luck, so I told him to use it until he either breaks it or can afford a D80. He wants 19.5's so he better take it easy this time. He purchased all 7 wheels and tires from the guy too.

[Dieselwrencher]

Today my U-bolt plates showed up as well as a different transmission dipstick. So with any luck this weekend I wil bring the truck to the shop and see about getting a different engine installed and redo my engine crossmember with any luck.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

with any luck.

If it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all...

[Dieselwrencher]

Well the forecast was looking grim for this next week with a lot of strong winds. After I got some snow fence up for my mom, and picked up some junk out of the yard, I decided to see about getting a rear axle back under the Longhorn and get it inside. I noticed earlier in the day that my jack stands had started settling into the ground, and the truck was starting to lean over. I didn't want this thing falling over. I had my brother go get our neighbor's skid loader while I started cutting the leaf spring perches off the D80. What a PITA that was. I was running out of acetylene, but finally got them off. When I went to clean them up, I noticed I bent them while beating on them trying to knock them off the axle housing. I will just purchase new ones. We took the rear end out there with the skid loader and started getting ready to put it in. Then I realized the axle pads were wider than my u-bolts a long with my lower mounting plates. I drilled out the mounting plates and opened up the u-bolts in the vise. Next we went back out there and started putting it together. One more slight issue, the U-bolts are too short because this axle tube is much bigger and so is the new mounting plate. I removed the lift block and put it together. Once I got it on the ground back on tires, I'm getting the vibe that I might just remove the 4" lift kit altogether. The truck only sits maybe 2" lower in the rear now. Here are some pics in the shop again.

[Dieselwrencher]

Here is another issue, kind of. This rear axle is quite a bit wider than a stocker too. It puts the tires out of the body a bit. But, at least you won't be able to see the front tires sticking out at the rear. I always hated that about these for sure. I have the rear axle close to where it goes, but just put it in and eye balled it in to get the truck in the shop.




I think I can live with it due to the price to narrow it and my options for strong rear axles.

Now for the height issue. I was thinking about removing the 4" lift from the front, but that is more work. I'm thinking about getting a smaller block for the rear to level it out and call it good. I'm guessing 2" would be plenty. It is really hard to see the difference in these pictures, but here are a few more.




Hopefully this week I can get the engine positioned where I want it and try to get this truck running. That will be a big hurdle to jump!

[nickp51chevy]

She's lookin' good!

You said that you bend the leaf springs when you were trying to take them off the axle? That is crazy those are some huge springs.

[Dieselwrencher]

I didn't bend the spring, I bent the leaf spring mounting pad that is welded to the axle tube. You can kind of see it in this pic. There shouldn't be a gap in between the leaf spring and that perch.

[nickp51chevy]

Oh ya, that's not good.

[1968vetL-71]

gonna be a great truck when done. very cool. did you use the 2wd spring hangers off a gmc for the rear? some people say if you do that you have to use 4" of block or spring lift to sit to the stock height?? Interested in what you did for a buddy!! again, great job!!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 1968vetL-71

gonna be a great truck when done. very cool. did you use the 2wd spring hangers off a gmc for the rear? some people say if you do that you have to use 4" of block or spring lift to sit to the stock height?? Interested in what you did for a buddy!! again, great job!!

I used the rear spring hangers from a 72 K5.(Blazer) Now there is no lift block at all and the tires are 285/75R16. It sits higher than I figured it would without a block in it.

[propanemudtruck]

Why not build the mounts out of 2by or 3by tubing on the axle? Just notch and drill the pilot hole then weld em on! You could play with tube measurements to get rid of blocks completely and have a bit more lift than the stock mounts...

[Dieselwrencher]

Man, that's a good idea! I just might have to try that. I'll have to see how much lift it needs and go from there.