No Limit Trailing Arm Rear Suspension

[CarbonRight]

So there is about a $350 difference between this setup and the fatbar when they are both using Ridetech shocks. What are the advantages of going with this vs your fatbar setup?
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[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by CarbonRight

So there is about a $350 difference between this setup and the fatbar when they are both using Ridetech shocks. What are the advantages of going with this vs your fatbar setup?
Posted via Mobile Device

Fair question. It's really kind of "Apples vs. Oranges". We wanted to do an actual 'Bolt-in' rear upgrade for a long time. So, the Trailing arm kit was developed. The extra cost mostly has to do with the extra hardware cost in the arms, monster balls, and hardware for the panhard rod. On the plus side, this kit can be installed in a day, with a grinder, a drill, and a Craftsman tool kit. Now, if you have a torch or plasma cutter to help with the rivets, it can be done a lot faster. But, no welding at all.
The Fatbar was originally designed for 55-59 Chevs and 53-56 F100s. (sorry for the F word) And, over the years, we tuned on the design to get the best ride and handling we could from a classic truck. It's advantage when compared to the O.E. trailing arm was in Instant Center location/tuning, and the lack of binding during articulation. (we didn't have Monster balls back then) But remember, the Fatbar has parts that MUST be welded to the axle housing. Thus, the install takes a little longer, and requires more tools and skill.
In head to head competition, the Fatbar may win out due to it's ability to launch and exit the corner. On the road, the trailing arm may be a little more compliant due to it's longer travel. As for cost, an increase in hardware offsets some addition labor to install. Take your pick, it's a Win-Win.

[SierraMtns]

Has anyone figured out which diff covers fit with the panhard bar?

[SierraMtns]

Hey Rob,

Any pictures of the c-notch?

[SierraMtns]

Hey Rob,

Any updates on the c-notch?

Thanks

[robnolimit]

Getting close. matching the bends to fit the OE rail is harder than it looks. We should have formed parts next week. Fixtures and press jigs are ready. - It won't be long.

[gringoloco]

Cool stuff here. Any updates/opinions from those who have purchased?

[TTurbo565]

Hey Chris. I purchased and installed the kit with the Ridetech three way adjustable shocks from Rob a couple of months ago. I have a 72 Chevy long bed that is pretty much stock except for the suspension and wheels/tires. I removed the bed for the installation and everything went pretty smooth. Drilling out the stock rivets is the worst part of the job. Everything is great quality, and with a little careful measurement, my truck didn’t require any adjustments in the rear for a perfect four wheel alignment. I haven’t had a chance to put it through the paces on a track, but the ride and handling is amazing. I had to add more clearance to the inside wheel houses to accommodate the 345/19X12 wheels and extra axle articulation for street driving, but the axle tracks the pavement really well and the rear axle hop/oversteer of death is greatly reduced. Rob did a great job!!

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by TTurbo565

Drilling out the stock rivets is the worst part of the job.

I tried every method of removing rivets and let me tell you, the $300 you'd spend on a cheap plasma cutter is so worth it -- you can shave the head off a rivet in about 10 seconds and then punch it out.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I tried every method of removing rivets and let me tell you, the $300 you'd spend on a cheap plasma cutter is so worth it -- you can shave the head off a rivet in about 10 seconds and then punch it out.

Same thing w/a quality air chisel vs a cheap one. I struggled on rivets w/a new Craftsman unit. Upgraded to a Snap-On . . .... night & day difference.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by TTurbo565

Hey Chris. I purchased and installed the kit with the Ridetech three way adjustable shocks from Rob a couple of months ago. I have a 72 Chevy long bed that is pretty much stock except for the suspension and wheels/tires. I removed the bed for the installation and everything went pretty smooth. Drilling out the stock rivets is the worst part of the job. Everything is great quality, and with a little careful measurement, my truck didn’t require any adjustments in the rear for a perfect four wheel alignment. I haven’t had a chance to put it through the paces on a track, but the ride and handling is amazing. I had to add more clearance to the inside wheel houses to accommodate the 345/19X12 wheels and extra axle articulation for street driving, but the axle tracks the pavement really well and the rear axle hop/oversteer of death is greatly reduced. Rob did a great job!!

Thanks for the review, and welcome to the board!

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I tried every method of removing rivets and let me tell you, the $300 you'd spend on a cheap plasma cutter is so worth it -- you can shave the head off a rivet in about 10 seconds and then punch it out.

Must find one of these $300 plasmas

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Same thing w/a quality air chisel vs a cheap one. I struggled on rivets w/a new Craftsman unit. Upgraded to a Snap-On . . .... night & day difference.

So true. The HF air chisel will get it done, but you'll be there all day

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Must find one of these $300 plasmas

This is the one I have, it's $290 now or $260 through warehouse deals:

Lotos Plasma LT5000D

[gringoloco]

Any provisions for e-brake cables on the arms?

[robnolimit]

We did not put any cable mounts on the arms fot the OE style cable. Currie and others have bolt-on tabs that can be used. When running Wilwood, or other aftermarket disc set ups, custom cables can be made for you at www.controlcables.com We run the cables through the arm, notice that they are ported on the top/front and side/rear for cable housings.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Any provisions for e-brake cables on the arms?

I was hoping to run stock brake drums however the OE e-brake cable runs right into the coilover. So I went with Camaro calipers and CaptainFab brackets. My plan is to use the stock Camaro cables and run them right along the trailing arms like the stock ones. The Camaro cables are strong and well built. I only paid $20 for them at pick-n-pull.

[SierraMtns]

Rob, someone is getting ready for a WideRide frond end....

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

We did not put any cable mounts on the arms fot the OE style cable. Currie and others have bolt-on tabs that can be used. When running Wilwood, or other aftermarket disc set ups, custom cables can be made for you at www.controlcables.com We run the cables through the arm, notice that they are ported on the top/front and side/rear for cable housings.

Clean! I like

[Stickman]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

Hey Rob,

Any updates on the c-notch?

Thanks

X2 Anything going on with the notches ?
Thx
Kirk

[robnolimit]

Finishing the first run of Notch kits today. Picts up soon.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

We have had so many ask about this, and it was a tough call in some ways to go ahead with this project. I would like to explain that. At No Limit, we are focused on performance suspension. We have never claimed to build the lowest, the 'showy-est' or the lowest price. We focus on the best ride and handling. There are other great builders of the lowest ride, and you should steer clear of the low price crap.

We have the FatBar 4-bar rear for C10's, and it's great. Ask anyone running one. Smitty proved it's ability beyond any doubt. We have the custom 3-link, like the one Wes D. runs and it's a short course killer. Now both of these are great, but they do require welding and fitting, and the three link must use a Ford 9". Then we have a shock mount kit, panhard kit and sway bar for OE C10 rear suspensions as bolt-on upgrades. These work very well to enhance the original truck, but there are some shortcomings.

We also took the time to study what others are offering, as there isn't really any reason to duplicate something that's already available. The big problems are as follows; 1)Limited travel forcing a stiff ride, mostly due to short shocks and poor location. 2)Rigid, fixed front bushings that limit the axle articulation - OE arms twist, tubular arms don't. 3) High roll center that limits the side bite available, forcing the truck to be 'loose'. 4) Limited clearance for exhaust. With this in mind, the goal was to produce a bolt-in kit with none of the shortcomings of the current marketplace.

Love this kit! When is the 73-87 version coming out?

[gringoloco]

What anti-sway bar works with this kit? Is it just the hotchkis blade style? Looks like your top mount *might* work. Looking forward to notch updates

[bluex]

Originally Posted by moregrip

Love this kit! When is the 73-87 version coming out?

See post #104 he addressed it there and basically says no, since there is welding involved a 4-link would be a better option. You could avoid welding by using a 71/72 rear axle though. I asked him to elaborate on why the trailing arms would be a bad idea in a square but Rob's a busy man so his earlier answer was all he said on the subject.

Your options for trailing arms on a 73-87 are CPP or Porterbuilt, maybe hotrods to hell if they are still around.

[SierraMtns]

2 more days and the c-notch will be here.... Monkey junk

[vtekdis]

Rob, I know you guys install 9 in floaters on your frames and would like to have one on my truck. Is there any chance you could sell the rear end prepped for this trailing arm setup? I'm all about that bolt-in ...

[robnolimit]

We sure do. We can prep both standard 9" big bearing housing/axles. or floaters. Pricing breaks down like this.

9" heavy duty Moser housing with billit Torino (big bearing late model) ends, pinion centered, with fill and drain added + Moser 31 spline axles with access hole, 2 1/2" offset, bearings and seals and 1/2" x 20 studs. Standard C10 width is 63" WMS (wheel mount surface) - can be 62" or 61", no extra charge. With No Limit brackets welded* $1,295.00

9" BBLM brakes 11" Explorer style, drilled/slotted = $590
12.19" x 4 piston Wilwood = $895
13" x 4 piston Wilwood = $1785

9" Moser heavy duty floater housing, fill and drain added. Steel hubs and drive plates, all bearings, seals, retainers, 31 spline axles. Pinion centered, 63" std WMS. - 60" to 62" avail also. No Limit brackets welded = $1395

Floater brakes 11" Speedway style with Wilwood Superlite (no E Brake) $745
12" Wilwood w/E-brake in caliper $895
13" Wilwood with Superlite and Mech spot E-brake caliper $1680
For drilled/slotted rotors on these kits add $90

* Brackets not included, but are part of No Limit suspension packages.