My 81 Step Side

[spudz]

truck has came a long way! I like it! not so sure about the hood pins but all in all good work!

[chad64chevy]

i know what you mean about no one replying over 150 views on my truck in the last week with one reply besides myself!! lol!! nice work getting it running!! you ever think of putting a newer burban grille in there?? i think those look bad a$$!!

[zackary027]

hood pins are a must the hood got warped at some point and will not shut without them. cant afford a new hood right now. and yea i like the burb grills, just finding one and then putting out the dough

[87 chevy silverado]

to bad ur so far away ur i would basically give you a hood

[zackary027]

well dang that would be awesome

[87 chevy silverado]

yea if only

[zackary027]

got a set of leather buckets today they may be finding there way into my truk

[zackary027]

so i started to block sand my truck today and found the drivers fender has had some work done before. they did a pretty good job but im going to have to go in and smooth it out a little bit.

[zackary027]

so i started wire brushing my rockers and floor pan and have just about desided to bursh all the rust out use a rust remover then finish it off with some primer and undercoat. they arent really that bad i dont think it will be a problem. i may even lay a little fiberglass down just for extra security. any opinions ??

[zackary027]

any suggestions on the rust? i dont think there is enough to warrant full rocker and floor pan replacement? will put some pics up tomorrow

[notyo_cheez]

Originally Posted by zackary027

any suggestions on the rust? i dont think there is enough to warrant full rocker and floor pan replacement? will put some pics up tomorrow

Depends on the size of the holes, and if the rust hasn't spread to the cab's structural supports. Go for the fiberglass filler if it's all small holes. If you have never used fiberglass bondo before only mix small amounts that can be worked and applied within five minutes .

If you don't care about how it looks you can always get some tin and self-tappers and make a "hillbilly" patch. It won't earn you any bragging rights with your gearhead friends but it'll keep you dry. Rust is just a fact of life with an old truck, you will always have it.

[zackary027]

well there's only a few pin holes the rest is just pitted after i ground it with the wire brush yet still pretty solid. im not going to hillbilly it but i dont want to cut it up if i dont have too..

[notyo_cheez]

Originally Posted by texasbigbear_wink

http://s1210.photobucket.com/albums/...exasbigbear21/ Pic's of my build pictures added weekly.

Thanks man I will check that out I bet it is a lot cheaper than ordering the entire set from lmc for $150 bucks. Toyota makes a nice metallic blue that I am considering, I like the blue and black theme.
Posted via Mobile Device

JCWhitney offers the complete Prothane bushing kit which includes the control arm bushings, bed mount bushings, cab/core support bushings etc for a little over $200. If you are doing a frame-off it's the way to go.

[zackary027]

?? i think you got the wrong thread lol

[notyo_cheez]

Originally Posted by zackary027

well there's only a few pin holes the rest is just pitted after i ground it with the wire brush yet still pretty solid. im not going to hillbilly it but i dont want to cut it up if i dont have too..

The hillbilly fix was a joke, should have added an emoticon after it...

Go for the bondo. It will be a driver anyway, you shouldn't worry about losing points from a concours judge at the country club regatta...



This is the fix I made for my cab floor, used tin snips on a scrap piece of a roof section. Sanded and ground the edges smooth, two coats of primer and self-tappers. The hole was for a shifter and I got frustrated trying to get a welder to fix it for me.

[zackary027]

little work done

[zackary027]

fail or no you tell me i plan on covering the metal frame with carpet. the frame is the existing seat with everything taken off. if it doesn't look right i will figure something else out. anyone ever tried this.

[83highsierra]

wow this truck looks awesome kuddos to you i just purchased a 83 high sierra stepside and the 4.1 L6 has a stuck valve im wanting to drop in a 350 i was wondering if you could give me some pointers on the swap ive never swapped a motor before so will it all line up or does it require alot of modification thanks in advance

[notyo_cheez]

Originally Posted by 83highsierra

wow this truck looks awesome kuddos to you i just purchased a 83 high sierra stepside and the 4.1 L6 has a stuck valve im wanting to drop in a 350 i was wondering if you could give me some pointers on the swap ive never swapped a motor before so will it all line up or does it require alot of modification thanks in advance

You'll need the engine mounts for the 350, transmission bell housing should mate easily. You'll want a bigger radiator. Upgrade to a 80 or 100 amp alternator too. Recruit a friend or two to help you who have experience with installing engines, preferably one who has a hoist and stand they could lend you for the project unless you already have them.

Depending on your resources and level of commitment, here's a few things you want to think about:

1. Go with a crate engine. A rebuilt one will cost as much or more than a crate.
2. Save all your brackets, pulleys, etc. Clean them up and paint them.
3. Install new water pump, power steering pump, balancer, flex plate when you reassemble it. Use new hardware. If you opt for a rebuilt long block make sure the shop chases all the bolt holes, a crate will have nice, clean threads already ready to go.
4. Install a new fuel pump, and clear out your fuel lines. Drop the tank, get it flushed and reinstall it with a new sending unit. If the tank has rust in it, replace it with a new poly tank ($160 from J.C.Whitney).
5. If your budget allows for it drop the transmission and drive shaft, check your u-joints and have the transmission rebuilt. It won't be that much more work to do this once the engine is out.

There's a few things I'm probably forgetting that someone else will add as well, stay tuned.

[notyo_cheez]

Originally Posted by zackary027

fail or no you tell me i plan on covering the metal frame with carpet. the frame is the existing seat with everything taken off. if it doesn't look right i will figure something else out. anyone ever tried this.

If the seats will fit the frame it should work, but when moving it back and forward both seats will travel together. How will the seat belts work with that setup?

I would have reupholstered the bench seat and called it done, but that's just my opinion.

[83highsierra]

thanks i will definiteley stay tuned

[zackary027]

the buckets will be fixed they will not move i told my wife she ticks me off every time she drives behind me she moves my seat. the only reason i didn't recover the seat is that i want a center console/arm prop

[notyo_cheez]

I'm not too keen on using the old seat bottom to mount your buckets, and in the end I don't think you'll be happy with the result.

To do this right you'll need to be a little creative and handy with a welder. If you have a plasma cutter trace out the pattern of the bench seat bottom on a sheet of diamond plate steel, cut it and tack it to the bench sliding brackets. Grind the edges smooth and paint. Use your bench hardware to fasten it to the floor, drill out and use new hardware to bolt your buckets to that. Check for head clearance and remember to mount your seat belt buckles.

[zackary027]

trashed the old mounts. my knees were a little too close to the wheel. guy stopped by when he saw me throw the seat across the yard and gave me a seat from a 89 or 90 chevy maby i can make it fit.

[76stepsidechevy]

I have a seat from an 88 or 89 in mine, the stock sliders fit pretty well. I used the rear holes in the seat and brackets and had to put a spacer between the sliders and the seat for the front. I also had to trim off about 2 inches of slider in front because they stuck out past the seat bottom. It fits pretty good, sits a touch lower than stock and isnt quite as wide.