Attempting my first build 72 K5

[DeadheadNM]

FWIW - they're straps that cradle the tank and affix to the frame rails - the OEM examples have an integrated, slightly "tweaked" metal part that "wiggles" into a space in the frame while the other end is bolted. Have an OEM strap here somewhere but a Hickey tank on my K5.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

FWIW - they're straps that cradle the tank and affix to the frame rails - the OEM examples have an integrated, slightly "tweaked" metal part that "wiggles" into a space in the frame while the other end is bolted. Have an OEM strap here somewhere but a Hickey tank on my K5.

Do you think I can get away with using my old straps? They used to old the old 36 gallon tank to the frame.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Old straps wont work.. The issue with the new tank is lining it up the straps with the existing holes on the frame. Am I going to need to drill holes in the frame to make this tank work?

Also, these are the lines I received from Inline tube. This is the 6 piece tank to stand pre bent kit.. Can anyone confirm I have these routed correctly?

[DeadheadNM]

Huh - looks as if those will work but I'd sell those as a package with the old tank and make use of the new if possible.

[jaros44sr]

The 'j bolts' that came with my replacement tank were garbage to put it kindly, wouldn t hold up anything. I used my oem hardware and felt much better about

Do you have a pic of the bolts

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

The 'j bolts' that came with my replacement tank were garbage to put it kindly, wouldn t hold up anything. I used my oem hardware and felt much better about

Do you have a pic of the bolts

Here is pice of the J-bolts supplied. the 2nd pic is the bolts for the hold strap that threaded through the bottom side of the frame rail.. I tried to use these on the new tank but they're to wide and won't support the tank.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Looks like I have two options for the poly Gas tank.

1. Try to route a fuel hose with enough bend to fit around the body mount. I have about a 1-1 1/2 clearance. I took this pic from another thread because its exactly what I'm dealing with here.





2. option is I moved the tank back a few inches and drill holes into my frame to line up the new straps.

Here is a pic of TJ's blazer with the oem gas tank. There's enough clearance to move it back some. I just want to opt for the easiest solution. Oh and it looks like I routed my 2 line going across incorrectly.

[jaros44sr]

The OEM set up has a u bolt that has 2 tight 90 degree bends onthe passenger side, it drops from the top down, drivers side uses j bolts. Using the u bolt makes it easier, so you don t have to get a wrench up in there to tighten it down. Then it just has 2 nuts, one on either side of the strap

[tjsblazer]

Coming along and looking great. Wondering where you got your u bolts for the front Dana 44 axle shown in your pic and if they are zinc coated or raw? I'm having a hard timing finding coated for the earlier smaller tubes.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

[QUOTE=tjsblazer;6850641]Coming along and looking great. Wondering where you got your u bolts for the front Dana 44 axle shown in your pic and if they are zinc coated or raw? I'm having a hard timing finding coated for the earlier smaller tubes.


PM sent. If anybody else is interested. WFO Concepts in Northern California makes these. Grade 8 with Clear Zinc Finish.

http://www.wfoconcepts.com/cr/U-Bolts/3208/3611

[DeadheadNM]

That was a fast find on the tank skid plate. Strong work!!! Still need to get pics of my K5 to you as relates the aftermarket tank/cross member.

[drillrod]

I had to replace that same rear crossmember on my 72 K5 where the previous owner had welded straps from it to the bumper and snatched it beyond repair. I got one off of a 71 pickup and it was the exact same thing. I bolted it in with carriage bolts and it made it look like rivets on the top. I am sure they are probably the same on 67-72 models, that would be much easier to find than a blazer chassis.

[drillrod]

Check the blazer for sale section. 1rippen6 has some blazer chassis parts for sale.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by drillrod

Check the blazer for sale section. 1rippen6 has some blazer chassis parts for sale.

Thanks Drillrod. I'll check it out. Good to know that the same crossmember on a pick up could work, too.

[bluek5]

Hello,
I do believe that you are indeed missing a cross member. I tried to take some pictures of one of mine. I have three 4x4 Blazers and they all have the cross member. The pictures are from my 71. The 72 frame goes back and bolts directly to the bumper. The cross member is riveted top and bottom four rivets total. Hope this helps.
Paul

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks BlueK5. That does help.

I found a local place that carries a lot of parts for our trucks. I was able to pick this up..

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Opinions welcome please

I'm going back in forth between purchasing a new oem style 4 Row radiator to keep the factory look, but I really like these aluminum ones by Entropy. I also like the idea that it can come equipped with dual electric fans. It's also a direct fit.

As far as originality, does a radiator make much of a difference?

My K5 isn't 100% original anyways, since I have a different engine and missing the air cleaner, but most everything else is pretty original.

[DeadheadNM]

Admittedly, I am a biased purist. You've gone through a lot to keep the K5 looking OEM. IMO the aluminum would look out of place and unless a big cost savings I'd say get a new brass/copper. If possible, rebuilding the original Harrison may be the least expensive way to go and you know it will fit with the existing mounts and available cushions. Some aluminum radiators will fit but not align well with the mounts.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Admittedly, I am a biased purist. You've gone through a lot to keep the K5 looking OEM. IMO the aluminum would look out of place and unless a big cost savings I'd say get a new brass/copper. If possible, rebuilding the original Harrison may be the least expensive way to go and you know it will fit with the existing mounts and available cushions. Some aluminum radiators will fit but not align well with the mounts.

The Aluminum one would run $650 + $150 for the wiring harness.

Classic Heartbeat has the brass/copper 4 row for $389 + another $400 for dual electric fans and wiring. It's pretty break even at that point.

I think I'll end up going with the OEM look but with electric fans.

[jaros44sr]

I m afraid i m going to have to side on originality on this one, i ve struggled mightily with my alum. rad., didnt help that i was using a '68 front end, which is designed for a single row rad.

My biggest issue was outlet pipe on the bottom, if that is not ' just right' you ll struggle to find an answer to make it work

I would think an OEM rad. would work w/o fans, many a original truck did nt have them
JMHO

[mx289]

I'am having this exact same dilemma on my k25

$650 for a radiator is what gives me pause.

I did not know Classic Heartbeat sold radiators.I will have to look into that.

And you guys are right.These trucks run just fine with OEM parts.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

I m afraid i m going to have to side on originality on this one, i ve struggled mightily with my alum. rad., didnt help that i was using a '68 front end, which is designed for a single row rad.

My biggest issue was outlet pipe on the bottom, if that is not ' just right' you ll struggle to find an answer to make it work

I would think an OEM rad. would work w/o fans, many a original truck did nt have them
JMHO

I think I am convinced. After my experience with the poly gas tank, I don't want to deal with anything else that does not bolt on exactly right.. I don't have the skills for custom fab

[DeadheadNM]

Do you have the original (or equivalent) radiator?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Do you have the original (or equivalent) radiator?

I do. When the truck did run, the coolant was always a brown color. Can these things be completely cleaned and refurbished?

If so, I rather go that route.

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I do. When the truck did run, the coolant was always a brown color. Can these things be completely cleaned and refurbished?

If so, I rather go that route.

Absolutely. Check with a reputable local radiator repair shop. You may save enough over the aluminum setup to fund the purchase of an OEM Am/Fm radio Some radiators may not be repairable though - I went through two before finding a third that was usable. On a related note, do you have the fan shroud and its lower mounting clips?