47-55.1 1950 Chevy 3600 Woody R

[skymangs]

We got the correct U-bolts installed today and put in the rear shocks
Looks pretty good
next we started building motor mounts

[skymangs]

Then we put it on the ground to check out the new stance!
Looks much better lower!

[8man]

That looks great.

I missed it earlier, what bracket is that on the LS? It looks wide, does it fit or will the inner fenders need some custom work?

[skymangs]

The bracket fits in the inners. It’s an ICT billet bracket

[8man]

Thank you.

[skymangs]

Today we built the motor mounts and put the new 10.5mm plug wires on
Then we put the motor in the chassis for the final time!
Next week we start getting it ready to run and buttoning up bodywork on the cab

[skymangs]

We took out a dent along the beltline. It was a PITA!
Next we finished up the AC hoses
And buttened up the passenger cowl. We did cut an access hole in the kick panel which we’ll cover it when we do the interior.

[8man]

Do you have some type of grommet around the hoses where they go into the kick panel? It looks like you drilled a hole with a hole saw.

[skymangs]

yes, the grommet we ordered didn’t work, so we wound up lining the hole with door edge guard

[skymangs]

Some of the bodywork done before us was not to hot. So as a result the metal got really thin and wavy near the edge. When we ground down our welds it burned through in a couple places. we will use Duraglass (fiberglass hair impregnated filler) to try to rebuild the door opening

[skymangs]

Next we ground everything smooth
we did some work to the beltline and A-pillar
Sanded down the left cowl
And applied the first coat of filler to the right

[joedoh]

nice work man!

[skymangs]

Thanks joedoe!

[dsraven]

What kinda paint is that blue? Looks great.

[dsraven]

That sucks about the door opening edge. Are you using a flap disc? I find them great for rough work but they flex a bunch so around an edge or a body line you gotta be real careful. Same when grinding the high spots off a weld, it's easy to also bring the surrounding sheet metal and then you have a thin spot. They heat the metal up around the weld you are grinding down and it oil cans a bit so the surrounding sheet metal is easy to find itself high and get flap disced a bit.

[skymangs]

That’s Hot Rod Flatz "speed blue” we did use a flap, I think the Duraglass will do the trick

[skymangs]

so today was all about getting the engine ready to run
we cleaned and installed the valley cover and knock sensor harness
Then we construct an AN line and installed AN adapters for the high pressure power steering line
And we installed the ETC

[skymangs]

Then we built the exhaust back to the muffler
And bolted down the intake

[skymangs]

so today was all about getting the engine ready to run
we cleaned and installed the valley cover and knock sensor harness
Then we construct an AN line and installed AN adapters for the high pressure power steering line
And we installed the ETC

[oldman3]

Chris, looking good...Jim

[skymangs]

Thanks Jim

[skymangs]

Today we spent the majority of the day working on the mustang, but we did find time to pull apart the exhaust and seam weld it.
We also straightened out the muffler
That is brand new pipe, just weathered. We can spruce it up for you though
We also painted the tank,
Tomorrow we’ll work on building the fuel system

[8man]

Moving right along now.

[skymangs]

This is not my mock-up
But rather your actual Vintage Air evaporator installed
we started building the fuel system, but are at a standstill. I had to order parts

[skymangs]

The first thing we did is fix the exhaust, the crossover was to far back and wouldn’t let us put the transmission yoke in
Then we had Dheil tire bend up some 2.5” tailpipes to our specifications
The end of the frame needs to be trimmed once we get the box on
The harness had EV1 (car) injector plugs on it, they needed to be changed to delphi (truck)
The EV1s are much taller, we tried them but the crossover tube for the fuel rail was to high and interfered with the engine cover