48 Burb, bagged, 5.3, 20 year wait

[68 Four on the Floor]

Yea I sometimes find good deals. If you need pics or anything I'd be more than happy to help.

[youngrodder]

Nice progress on the flooring. I also added a cross brace to support the front of the seat risor. I used 1 x 2 square tube.

I agree with your thinking of using the original seats. Good call.

Marc

[99 to Life]

Great work and for sure I'm all about the OG seats. its almost impossible for me to like a modern seat in an old car/truck. it is very hard to pull that off. Some guys have done it, but its very easy to be the biggest eye soar as they just cosmetically throw things off. Now seeing an LS under the hood I'm down with, but I also like seeing an sbc or an inline. Interior is a whole different game. keep up the good work.

[Advanced Design]

Thanks Guys, don't know why we were going this route. To pull off the look the truck would have to be finished off high end with the right size seats. Original just looks cooler...and the wife gets the small one most of the time.

Marc - your floors do look good and gotta be really solid with the box tubing. We are adding a 16 gauge top plate across the channels to box them in and level the mounting surface. Should be solid too.

[99 to Life]

surely I like the stock seats, but the other one could be pulled off minus the head rest, possibly re upholstered to fit the color scheme. Hey, I see some plastic cars in the BG, where are the cool old pedal cars??!!!!!! surely you have some

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

surely I like the stock seats, but the other one could be pulled off minus the head rest, possibly re upholstered to fit the color scheme. Hey, I see some plastic cars in the BG, where are the cool old pedal cars??!!!!!! surely you have some

Well 99, no cool old pedal cars here that I know of. My uncle does have some old iron stashed in one of his barns and he is a pack rat so who knows. His Dad owned the 49 Chevy since new.

Guys, I am up for suggestions for painting or coating the new front floor inside and out. Used Lizard Skin on the black truck. POR 15, self etch primer, Rustoleum? I am way more bolts and volts oriented than I am with paint / body so I appreciate your suggestions. Thanks!

[68 Four on the Floor]

I'd do epoxy primer then followed by raptor liner. It'll adhere to the epoxy if you shoot it within a few days.

[Rc4mike]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Well 99, no cool old pedal cars here that I know of. My uncle does have some old iron stashed in one of his barns and he is a pack rat so who knows. His Dad owned the 49 Chevy since new.

Guys, I am up for suggestions for painting or coating the new front floor inside and out. Used Lizard Skin on the black truck. POR 15, self etch primer, Rustoleum? I am way more bolts and volts oriented than I am with paint / body so I appreciate your suggestions. Thanks!

I love that FC jeep! I have the pickup version. Cool ride.

[99 to Life]

cool old iron in there. as for coating floor pans. I think epoxy is def the best way to go but has its moments. You have to basically prep for paint using epoxy, depending on all the nook and crannies it could be a pain. What I do and just did was brush on chassis saver which is just like POR, then I brushed on a brand called Magic from tractor supply. Black enamel. Stuff is thick, covers great. Did that on my frame.

For my cab floor, I'm going to use chassis saver, then enamel, then Hurculiner. The chassis saver and enamel are very forgiving on going over rust or non degreased areas though I recommend cleaning and whipping down still. The Hurculiner I'v yet to use but I'm sure its like most all the bedliner stuff out there. You can spray or roll it on.

Just my take, to each their own. chassis saver is 40 a qt, the enamel was on sale for 30 a gallon, and the hruculiner on ebay you can find for like 77 gallon cheapest I found.

[youngrodder]

My friend just recently sprayed in Lizard skin and loved how it turned out. Since he has a gun that I can use to spray it I will most likely use lizzard skin.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 68 Four on the Floor

I'd do epoxy primer then followed by raptor liner. It'll adhere to the epoxy if you shoot it within a few days.

Thank you 68 Four on the Floor. I really need to learn to paint at a rudimentary level.

Originally Posted by Rc4mike

I love that FC jeep! I have the pickup version. Cool ride.

Rc4mike - I might be mistaken though I believe this one is a pickup. It has an eight foot bed with a winch just behind the cab. Pretty cool old piece.

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

cool old iron in there. as for coating floor pans. I think epoxy is def the best way to go but has its moments. You have to basically prep for paint using epoxy, depending on all the nook and crannies it could be a pain. What I do and just did was brush on chassis saver which is just like POR, then I brushed on a brand called Magic from tractor supply. Black enamel. Stuff is thick, covers great. Did that on my frame.

For my cab floor, I'm going to use chassis saver, then enamel, then Hurculiner. The chassis saver and enamel are very forgiving on going over rust or non degreased areas though I recommend cleaning and whipping down still. The Hurculiner I'v yet to use but I'm sure its like most all the bedliner stuff out there. You can spray or roll it on.

Just my take, to each their own. chassis saver is 40 a qt, the enamel was on sale for 30 a gallon, and the hruculiner on ebay you can find for like 77 gallon cheapest I found.

Thanks 99 to Life - I can handle a brush.

Originally Posted by youngrodder

My friend just recently sprayed in Lizard skin and loved how it turned out. Since he has a gun that I can use to spray it I will most likely use lizzard skin.

Marc

Thanks Marc, I sprayed Lizard Skin on the floors of the black truck and have the sprayer so may go that route again. Gotta research if it needs to be sprayed over paint or if it will work on bare metal.

Hit it hard Saturday finishing the floor installation, ended up needing to do more fabrication along the back edge installing a flat 90 degrees (original floor support was crowned a bit), all took way longer than expected. Rather than quit for the day in the middle of it, we blew off my 35th class reunion so we could finish the plug welds in the floor. Worked late Saturday then early Sunday morning to finish up the section under the seats. Work sure takes a toll on Suburban building time.

Our plan is to continue encouraging / training our Grandson's so in a few years they can be really productive on the builds. Wife and I can really use the help!

[oldman3]

AD, funny you would mention a class reunion. I had my 50th this past Saturday (7/12/14) had a great time, but man there were so many old people there...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by oldman3

AD, funny you would mention a class reunion. I had my 50th this past Saturday (7/12/14) had a great time, but man there were so many old people there...Jim

Good one Jim...the years are on fast forward and I can hardly believe that was my 35th.

[dug224]

Man, I sure like the look of the original seats but if you are going to long haul the truck, it may be an issue. I used seats out of a Saturn Vue that are small-ish and have removable head rests and all of the manual seat adjustments you need....I thought the drill press I got from my Dad was bulky. Pocket size compared to yours. Project looking great. dug

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by dug224

Man, I sure like the look of the original seats but if you are going to long haul the truck, it may be an issue. I used seats out of a Saturn Vue that are small-ish and have removable head rests and all of the manual seat adjustments you need....I thought the drill press I got from my Dad was bulky. Pocket size compared to yours. Project looking great. dug

Thanks Dug, We've debated back and forth on the seats and will go the original route. We do plan to long haul and figure we can handle 5 or 6 hours in them. We did in the black truck. And if we can't, we will change them out in the future. The drill press was pretty handy for drilling all the holes for the welds.

Plug welds on the floor are done. Everything fits solid and tight. Still have to form the pieces for the outer edges of the toe board, then seam seal and coat. Going to leave the tranny hump off until we determine transmission bell housing clearance.

[99 to Life]

Very nice, can't wait to see this come together.

[Iceburgh]

great work on the floors

[oldman3]

Looks super...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Thanks guys!

Now we have to figure out what to do with the back floor. Tom (Trick Trucks and Rods owner) who has built a number of these suggested one option was to leave the wood alone if it is good and place a sheet of aluminum on the bottom of the entire floor. This will protect the floor from exhaust heat.

Since we want rear seats securely mounted (along with safety belts) for rear seat passengers, we are thinking of using steel to replace the wood by using similar fabrication to what we did under the front seats.

Way open for options / ideas and will search for what others have done. Read Chizzlers Suburban build last night and picked up great ideas.

[Iceburgh]

Doing my rear floor now.
Mine was junk.
Old stuff is out and I am raising the new 3/4" to sit on top of the flap around the inne body.
All the braces have to come up 3/4" s well and welding them in along with som e1x1 to add support.
I will post pics when it is done .
Good luck with yours

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

Doing my rear floor now.
Mine was junk.
Old stuff is out and I am raising the new 3/4" to sit on top of the flap around the inne body.
All the braces have to come up 3/4" s well and welding them in along with som e1x1 to add support.
I will post pics when it is done .
Good luck with yours

Not to highjack the thread but why did you decide to place the wood on top of the flange opposed to below as it came?

I need to decide what to do with mine as well.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

Doing my rear floor now.
Mine was junk.
Old stuff is out and I am raising the new 3/4" to sit on top of the flap around the inne body.
All the braces have to come up 3/4" s well and welding them in along with som e1x1 to add support.
I will post pics when it is done .
Good luck with yours

Thanks Iceburgh. It is great to kick this around so it isn't a hi-jack Marc.

I was thinking of doing same (actually under the lip) to have a consistent edge around the perimeter. Didn't consider the impact on the body mounts. Should only be the two in the number 3 (from the front) position. Then, the front and rear edges will need to be built up with material the same thickness as the plywood.

Was thinking of welding in 16 gauge cross support channels like this. Probably will need some 90 degree tabs for doing the attaching to the side wall. Then for additional strength boxing the channel in with 16 gauge. And building around whatever kick-up that might be needed in the floor. Mine might be a box in the center for the top of the differential. Don't know yet.

Darn work sure gets in the way of building progress.....

[Iceburgh]

I had it the original way but didn't like so I took it out.
The biggest reasons are the fact that you have to use 2 pieces any way you look at.
The problem you run into at the stock is at the hump in the frame you need to shave so much wood off it gets very thin to the point it is easy to break and allows noise to flow through easy.
At the stock location with the way the body contours in as you go lower the board have to be cut the same way. To easy to do .
3rd reason the 1" strip that holds it down are all *****ed up so this way I welded them tight, painted them and now will be hidden.
The integrity remains the same and should look good.
I am sure there are a million other ways to make it look good but this will work the nest for me.

I also plan on having the wood exposed with stain clear and then use 3 or 4 stainless strips to accent it

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

I had it the original way but didn't like so I took it out.
The biggest reasons are the fact that you have to use 2 pieces any way you look at.
The problem you run into at the stock is at the hump in the frame you need to shave so much wood off it gets very thin to the point it is easy to break and allows noise to flow through easy.
At the stock location with the way the body contours in as you go lower the board have to be cut the same way. To easy to do .
3rd reason the 1" strip that holds it down are all *****ed up so this way I welded them tight, painted them and now will be hidden.
The integrity remains the same and should look good.
I am sure there are a million other ways to make it look good but this will work the nest for me.

I also plan on having the wood exposed with stain clear and then use 3 or 4 stainless strips to accent it

Thanks Iceburgh, appreciate the description. That will look really good.

Friday night in the shop beats watching TV. Toe board flanged edges fabricated shrunk and installed.

[youngrodder]

Looking good AD....I will probably install my toe boards without the flange because I cant fab them up like you have.

Iceburg It make sense. I will probably end up with a sizable step notch for my rear frame so I might consider the same. That is down the road before I need to worry about it...

Its great you guys are tackling all of the difficult things ahead of me....I can learn from your builds..