Freddy's '52

[1952ssr]

Took the front clip off for hopefully the last time last night. Did some minor metal deletion and now everything on the radiator doesn't rub. Now trying to figure out how to secure the front clip to the frame and where/how to mount the battery. I couldn't help but take a picture.

[xpickup]

1952ssr, Love the stance. Looks like it is coming right along.

Shannon

[ChuckDriver]

I like it!!

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by xpickup

1952ssr, Love the stance. Looks like it is coming right along.

Shannon

I agree it looks wicked. I love wicked looking rides.lol

[Indian113]

I like what you have done, it's coming together nice. What are you going to do for inner fenders?

[RootBeer 6117]

Looking good.
For what its worth,this is were I put my battery. It makes it easy to get to.I'm sure a lot or folks like the clean look under the floor/cab/bed.I like getting to it to keep from something getting fried(damn kids).

[watahyahknow]

i been watching green machines a while back about that electric dragbike .
the lithium ion batteries are so powerful they make a car battery with the power of a normal battery but the size of a motorcycle battery , you could hide that a bit better maibe even mount it under the seats or dash (no liquids inside could be mounted upsidedown if needed )

[1952ssr]

Thanks, you guys!!!
Inner fenders.... well, I was laying in bed thinking about that last night. I think I am going to take my s10 inners and mate them with the '52 ones. Since I used the LT radiator the original ones would have to be modded heavily up front. I will go from there where to mount the battery, I have thought about them same location as RB's since my a/c & heater hoses will come out of the factory hole above it and clearence wouldn't be an issue.

[1952ssr]

Had last Friday off so I got a little done. I went ahead and used the original inner fenders just heavily modded the front but I think it turned out good. In the future I am going to try and put a piece in place from there to the front for full coverage. As you can see got the PS resevior in place and last night made the battery tray it will go where the black mark is on the firewall.

[WIDESIDE72]

This thread is a WEALTH of information!!! I will be putting a 94 Caprice 9C1 LT1 AND 4L60E in my 55 1st series with an 85 S10 LWB chassis. I am sure that I will be coming back here often.

I have a question aout the Aveo guages. I assume that the spacing between them is different than stock, making in necessary to build a new pod in the dash (?) Would it be possible to separate the gauges to prevent having to build a new gauge pod?

Here is my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=422521

[1952ssr]

[quote=WIDESIDE72;4545684]This thread is a WEALTH of information!!! I will be putting a 94 Caprice 9C1 LT1 AND 4L60E in my 55 1st series with an 85 S10 LWB chassis. I am sure that I will be coming back here often.

I have a question aout the Aveo guages. I assume that the spacing between them is different than stock, making in necessary to build a new pod in the dash (?) Would it be possible to separate the gauges to prevent having to build a new gauge pod?


Afraid not on the pod, your idea was what I had in mind to start. Then I received the pod and quickly saw I was in for moding the dash. If your 9C1 has the green hoses they are good forever (never to fail), I found this out on a impala website when I googled LT1 reverse cooling. If you hadn't got one already, order a after market transmission cross member like 50 bucks. It will make for little work and easiler tail pipe routing.

[WIDESIDE72]

[quote=1952ssr;4545695]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

This thread is a WEALTH of information!!! I will be putting a 94 Caprice 9C1 LT1 AND 4L60E in my 55 1st series with an 85 S10 LWB chassis. I am sure that I will be coming back here often.

I have a question aout the Aveo guages. I assume that the spacing between them is different than stock, making in necessary to build a new pod in the dash (?) Would it be possible to separate the gauges to prevent having to build a new gauge pod?


Afraid not on the pod, your idea was what I had in mind to start. Then I received the pod and quickly saw I was in for moding the dash. If your 9C1 has the green hoses they are good forever (never to fail), I found this out on a impala website when I googled LT1 reverse cooling. If you hadn't got one already, order a after market transmission cross member like 50 bucks. It will make for little work and easiler tail pipe routing.

Mine DOES in fact have the green hoses. I plan to reuse them. As for the crossmember,I have one out of my 79 Malibu that was modded for dual exhaust that I pulled when I put in a G-Force crossmember that I am going to try, as wel as one out of a 97 Silverado before I drop coin on an aftermarket one.

[1952ssr]

Progress report: more wiring done, firewall / interior painting, and my marker lights I bought off ebay modified then mounted onto the top on my fenders. Oh yeah rear bumper put on also but, I'm not sure I'm gonna leave it on.... your opinions please.

[RootBeer 6117]

Looking Good SSR I see the rats got a hold of your wires. What do you think of the bumper? I am going to have mine but pull it up and in closer the the body it stuck out to far for my taste, but thats me and I aint like everybody else. It would help hide the gas tank in your case.
Joe

[troy54gmc]

I gotta agree with rootbeer about bringing it in closer and higher. i dont know about the blinkers on the front fenders??? maybe in a different position, i dont know maybe its just me, i never liked the blinkers on top. but to each his own. i do like the progress and the pictures..

[BlueJeep]

I like that bumper. Really fits a "meant to be used" image. I'd run it if it were in my garage...

[ChuckDriver]

Looking good, keep the bumper!!

[1952ssr]

Thanks for your input, I'm gonna wait till I actually get it outside to make a decision on the bumper. You know how things look different when you can really step back and think it over. If I do anything it will be tuck it like was mentioned, I hope to get the plastic tank cover at the junkyard or paint it black to conceal it better.

RB, question....is there a way to hook power up the truck (without actually connecting the battery) that would trip itself if something was wrong for my maiden attempt to crank it? I am SOOOOOOOO scared that something is going to fry, and I'm ready to drive this baby without having something major put up a roadblock. TIA

[watahyahknow]

i think they make gadgets for that they send 12 volts at a verry low amperage through the system and shuts down at the first sighn of trouble maibe you could lend a regulated labratory powersuply they do about the same you can turn up the power slowly get everything to light up without smoking the cables

you should do it in stages big powereaters are halogen lights and wipermotor
indicator lights interiourlight dashboardlights radio (a normal headunit) electric antenna gps handsfree telephone and alarmsystem dont take as mush power
the starter should be tried last on full power to get it to turn over , the relay doesnt take as mush but only aply for a short burst to hear it clicking or you might burn the fieldcoils in the starter because of the lack of amps

another test you could do is put a ohmmeter on the batteryclamps and turn stuff on see if the ohms exeed the suspected values indicating a short .
dont be realy scared if you measure resistance with everything turned of , the radio , clock and sumtimes the interiourlight (when the door or bootlid is open ) allways take a little current to find it you could systematicly unplug stuff , thats the best way to find a short too

[RootBeer 6117]

SSR
watayaknow has some good advice. You might also consider an in line low amp circuit breaker like I have seen on a lot of 70-80 gm cars. or a very low amp fusible link. I have a power probe it allows me to power or ground circuits and has a breaker that trips if there is a problem.
I bet you be fine you took your time on it.
Joe

[1952ssr]

Thanks for the input guys and encouragement. I kept all the fuse links from the Z28 power block and everything has a fuse either from the S10 fuse box or the Z28 underhood fuse box. And I have tried to double check each connection before I soldered them.

I went to the junkyard and retrieved the hard heater hoses from the Z28 (thankfully he still has the z after 2 years) and the EVAP cannister. Got the lines mounted last night and boy am I running out of room under the hood.

[1952ssr]

More progress on the wiring Saturday and mounting of underhood relay/fuse block. Also got my hard line heater hose in place. Last night did a little bondo sanding. Looks like trip to ROD RUN is a bust since it won't be running in two weeks. Probably head down to Year One's first show of the year.

[RootBeer 6117]

SSR Are those the heater hoses running in the cab throungh the blower fan hole? If they are what are you doing for the heater core?

[1952ssr]

Originally Posted by RootBeer 6117

SSR Are those the heater hoses running in the cab throungh the blower fan hole? If they are what are you doing for the heater core?

They are, the unit I'm using from Southern rods is a a/c - heater combo.

[1952ssr]

Need some help guys. My wiper motor has only 2 wires coming off of it, neither a chassis ground, with a toggle switch control. I'm thinking that the motor is a 1 speed style (it's an autolite =I'm guessing old) the only wire lacking hooked up to the toggle is the supply. I want to hook it to the s10 wiper harness which has a wire for supply, low speed and hi speed. Any ideas how to hook it up.