1955 12 Valve NAPCO Clone

[Luther Grimace]

Pulled the engine out... AGAIN!

Hoping to get everything swapped over pretty quickly because I'm tired of pushing this truck around by myself. How do some of you move your projects around by yourself?

The plan for now is to use the VE cam (possibly lifters too don't know if it is worth the trouble). I'm contemplating skipping the tooth on the timing but i'm not sure if too advanced of timing didn't start my first problem.



Double trouble



Also I felt the inside of the #6 while I had it out. I don't think there is anyway I could have honed it and let it ride. It was pretty rough.

[Dieselwrencher]

If high timing was your issue, you would have more than one cylinder with a burnt piston or scoring. I'd skip a tooth and run the IP in the fully retarded position so you can access everything better. This will net about the same timing as the IP fully roatated (advanced) but leaves access for idle and ease of fuel screw adjusting.

[6BT 56]

Hi luther . nice to see some progress. I will ask abt the alt 1 wire setup. Here is how I move projects around by myself

[Dieselwrencher]

I usually push them as far as I can by my self and use my 95 F-350 to push them if I can get it close .

[1985-GMC]

I just use the backhoe or skidloader.

[Luther Grimace]

I'm gonna have to get some sorta front end loader. I do it about like dieselwrencher does. I just grab on to the tires lugs and roll as far as I can til I feel like busting a blood vessel. Then I nudge it in with my truck.
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[6BT 56]

The loader is nice I tell ya. But it is only here due to farm work. Kinda hard to account for the expence of tractors unless they have some sort of work to do . I always just pushed with another truck with a old tire inbetween before I bought the farm .

[Dieselwrencher]

i used to use our skid loader religiously, but it broke so I've been doing without since.

[6BT 56]

Hey luther.

how do I get the master cyl for the clutch off the firewall of the dodge???? I havent looked yet but it is my job 4 tomorrow to get it all out of the ram and fabbed up and into the 56.

[Luther Grimace]

Rotate it to the left a quarter turn and it'll pull right out. Make sure you disconnect the safety switch wiring and the linkage to the pedal. Also you might wanna keep the system attached to avoid having to bleed them.
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[Luther Grimace]

Has anybody left the rubber cover off the side plate? What is this for? Any experiences? Also anybody have a picture of the cam to injection pump timing mark pictures for stock timing and advanced?
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[6BT 56]

hey luther when u bled your clutch was there a bleeder in the lower cylinder ? I dont seem to have any kind of bleeder anywhere in my system. I want to shorten up the hose for my application and will have to bleed it in the neer future.

[Luther Grimace]

Mine didn't have a bleeder but there is a plug in it. I just bled it by pulling the slave cylinder and manually pressing it by hand about 10 times. I had my line disconnected from the clutch master too.
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[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Luther Grimace

Has anybody left the rubber cover off the side plate? What is this for? Any experiences? Also anybody have a picture of the cam to injection pump timing mark pictures for stock timing and advanced?
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Do you just want pics of injection pump to head clearance?

What rubber cover? The clutch fork boot on your Getrag?

Kind of bad pics. I'll see if I have more.

[1985-GMC]

I think he means the marks on the pump and cam gear.

- NOTE: Stock/OEM injection pump timing has the "O" of the camshaft gear line up with the "E" of the injection pump gear.

Here, you can see the pump is advanced by two teeth.

[Luther Grimace]

Yeah that's it! I only did mine one over to line up the 0 with the C. The rubber over I was talking about is the one that bolts over the tappet cover. I think it is for noise reduction. I ditched it cause it was all broken.
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[Luther Grimace]

Here are some pictures from the long weekend. I managed to get the engine ready to drop in minus swapping the oil pan with help from my friends. I also got the wheel barrow welded in for my new firewall.


Here is the timing advanced one tooth. I fully retarded the pump all the way to the point where I could still get a closed end 13mm on and off the very back pump nut.




You can see in the last picture where I left the rubber/plastic cover off the tappet cover. I hope this doesn't bite me in the butt but it was terrible shape. Anybody else removed this?

Here's the wheel barrow firewall install.

[Luther Grimace]

Here is the interior shot of the firewall. Not too big. I don't have a picture but I also cut my brake pedal and shifted the pad about an inch to the left.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work! The fire wall looks sweet man! Yes, that rubber cover is just for noise reduction. The only thing you will notice is a little ticking noise with that removed. Other than that, it's just an oil absorbtion pad.

[Luther Grimace]

Thanks! It turned out pretty good I thought. I almost put filler on it and made it super smooth looking but figured this truck is too rough.

I got another couple of timing questions. Why would anyone bump there timing 2 notches? I would like to keep mine fully retarded where I can get to stuff but I realize I will prolly have to move it. Also is there any way to time these with a degree wheel or something to figure out what the timing is? What is stock timing? 1/8" bump? 1 tooth? 2 teeth? I know it depends on pump location and how it is clocked. I am just trying to figure out if how to time it. I heard of someone putting a timing light on one? How would that work?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Luther Grimace

Thanks! It turned out pretty good I thought. I almost put filler on it and made it super smooth looking but figured this truck is too rough.

I got another couple of timing questions. Why would anyone bump there timing 2 notches? I would like to keep mine fully retarded where I can get to stuff but I realize I will prolly have to move it. Also is there any way to time these with a degree wheel or something to figure out what the timing is? What is stock timing? 1/8" bump? 1 tooth? 2 teeth? I know it depends on pump location and how it is clocked. I am just trying to figure out if how to time it. I heard of someone putting a timing light on one? How would that work?

You can use a dial indicator and a degree wheel to find cam center line, yes. People go 2 teeth to advance it more. 1 tooth is good for 5*. On my VE pumped 24v, I skipped 2 teeth and it's half way to the head. I'll check timing after it runs. 24v's run a little higher timing than 12v's. On the timing light, you have to buy a pulse adapter to go on an already expensive timing light.

[XJAbuzer]

Coming along great. I like the wheel barrow firewall mod. Ingenuity at its finest!

[Luther Grimace]

Originally Posted by XJAbuzer

Coming along great. I like the wheel barrow firewall mod. Ingenuity at its finest!

Thanks! I can't take the credit for the idea. My Dad came up with it. I just ran with it. You should've have seen the look I got at Lowe's when I tried to buy just the "barrow"!

[6BT 56]

Now your maken some progress. It sucks when you get in to the kind of bind only the money gun can get you out of .

Keep us posted when it makes some smoke !

[OrrieG]

I have heard the red Home Depot ones make more HP!
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