My 63 Project

[ZouchaR]

Like Murph says. Center punch or in my case, drill a "Pilot" hole, not very deep, but just deep enough for the center guide pin to ride in.

I also used a screwdriver that I wedged in from the top in order to put some pressure between the two pieces of metal. It worked great.

[ZouchaR]

Here is the drivers side out.

[ZouchaR]

And you can see my little mistake, where I thought there was a spot weld and there wasn't. So I will have one hole to repair, but no distortion of the back of my cab.

[ZouchaR]

And the passenger side.

[ZouchaR]

And passenger side out.

If anyone needs these, they are in great shape and not bent at all. Hit me up.

[ZouchaR]

And some more work on the drivers door. This door was all caved in when I started and pulling it back into shape caused a bunch of waves and such, so it took more filler that I would have liked, but it is very thin.

[McMurphy]

Nicely done .... sorry about the user advice being late.
I dont give that sort of tips and tricks, and when I do, it is as an afterthought because I am no expert by any stretch !!

Yours came out way better than the hack job I did on mine with an angle grinder, even though I ended up covering mine with a back wall panel....

[ZouchaR]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

Nicely done .... sorry about the user advice being late.
I dont give that sort of tips and tricks, and when I do, it is as an afterthought because I am no expert by any stretch !!

Yours came out way better than the hack job I did on mine with an angle grinder, even though I ended up covering mine with a back wall panel....

I will also be putting something back there.... Dynamat or something for sure... and getting the gas tank mounts out gives me more room for speaker cabinets if I decide to go that way.... Thanks for the advice though.... Any help is useful!!

[ZouchaR]

Time to do something about this ugly thing!!

[ZouchaR]

Little bit of welding.

[ZouchaR]

After grinding and a thin layer of plastic filler. Not bad. I will have to touch this up just a bit though.

[ZouchaR]

Eastwood sound deadener in the doors.

[ZouchaR]

Now to finish IP the skins on these doors.

[T.W.Dustin]

You have been busy!

[kerber63]

Keep up the great work! What you've done so far looks awesome.

[ZouchaR]

Time to pull the rearend....

[ZouchaR]

So we pulled the rearend... and it's ready to go to the shop to be checked, add Posi and to put the 4 bolt square ends on the axle tubes... I pulled the cover and counted 41 teeth on the Ring and 12 Teeth on the pinion.... Simple math.... 3.73 to 1 gear ratio. So I won't need to buy a new ring and pinion gear set.

[ZouchaR]

So now I need some advice. I lowered the front about 3 and a half inches and the back 4. I am planning to use a single piece driveline, since my Muncie is so much longer than the old stock four speed, and the front driveline would be about 18 inches if I used a two piece. Since I have lowered it, should i flip my trailing arm crossmember in order to gain the inch or so of travel for the driveline?? Anyone have thoughts about this?? It would be so much easier to do it now rather than later.

[1963c-10]

Nice job on the metal work. Did you find a 17 spline posi or are you converting to 30 spline in the rear end?

[ZouchaR]

I am going to take it too my local rear end shop and see what I can do with what I have without spending a crap load of money. So this could be a core, or it may be the seed for something really nice. I need to discuss it with them. I will let you know.

[1963c-10]

The 63 & 64 12 bolts were 17 splines. They went to 30 spline in 65. The 12 bolt 17 spline posi's are out there, but will take some looking. Took me 2 years to find one. Most guys w/63 & 64 trucks convert to the newer 30 splines since parts are readily available as are the 30 spline posi's. Both are stil 8.875"

Let me know how it works out though.

[ZouchaR]

So this little "facet" on the front of my hood was driving me nuts. So it's time to fix it.

[ZouchaR]

Looking better.

[ZouchaR]

I like that.

[ZouchaR]

Next job is too pull this crossmember, repair it and roll it over.