1963 C10 SWB Big Window Build

[GVizzle]

Sorry I meant the bed.

Which engine you going with?

LS..ZZ?

Your project is swaying to buy A 60-66!!!!!

[DRTYRAT30]

No, probably just a GM 350/290hp and then dress it up a bit. I would just like a clean new daily driver motor. I will go with a TH350 trans also.

I'm going to wait on the bed till i route the brakes lines.

Thanks

[skoffice]

Hey man your build is lookin awesome! I think a lot of people will agree that you have some awesome work and great progress going into this thing! I just wanted to throw my .02 in on the engine.

I got one of the same engines you are looking at getting for my dad's 71 K10 about 4 years ago. It ran alright for the first year and a half, didn't put a whole lot of miles on it. Maybe 10k at the most. Then it started to run a little sluggishly, and come to find out it had sunk a couple of exhaust valves! So after having the heads redone at around 20k we switched from an Edelbrock to a Holley carb and it opened up a little more power (now it could kinda roast the tires again). Then I put the last 10k miles on it and it just ran like a pig, had no power at all and got the $hittie$t gas mileage. I was working at a machine shop at the time(little over a year ago) building race engines, so I figured, what better time to tear this thing down and see what the hell was wrong!!! Anyway, I tore it down and to no surprise, the cam had gone FLAT and the crankshaft had more scratches and wear than the bearings did!! So I don't know if I just got a bad one or what, but I after seeing what this engine did, I am warning people about the lower level crate engines. We came to the conclusion that they must be using some sort of cheap castings in their components now. The block was just fine, a good 4 bolt block, but the components were garbage. It was unfortunate too that I was just beyond their 30k/3 year warranty..

If you would like to, PM me and I can hook you up with my shop in Elk Grove, not sure which part of Norther Cal you are in, but they can build you a great engine for close to the same price, and this way you have someone's shop to go back and talk to rather than being on hold on another 1-800 number lol.

Joe

[Captainfab]

That last engine issue sounds to me like not running oil with proper amounts of ZDDP for a flat tappet cam. That's a sure way to wipe out a flat tappet cam and lifters. Then the resulting ground up cam lobes got pumped into the bearings, eating up the bearings and chewing up the crank.

Originally Posted by skoffice

Hey man your build is lookin awesome! I think a lot of people will agree that you have some awesome work and great progress going into this thing! I just wanted to throw my .02 in on the engine.

I got one of the same engines you are looking at getting for my dad's 71 K10 about 4 years ago. It ran alright for the first year and a half, didn't put a whole lot of miles on it. Maybe 10k at the most. Then it started to run a little sluggishly, and come to find out it had sunk a couple of exhaust valves! So after having the heads redone at around 20k we switched from an Edelbrock to a Holley carb and it opened up a little more power (now it could kinda roast the tires again). Then I put the last 10k miles on it and it just ran like a pig, had no power at all and got the $hittie$t gas mileage. I was working at a machine shop at the time(little over a year ago) building race engines, so I figured, what better time to tear this thing down and see what the hell was wrong!!! Anyway, I tore it down and to no surprise, the cam had gone FLAT and the crankshaft had more scratches and wear than the bearings did!! So I don't know if I just got a bad one or what, but I after seeing what this engine did, I am warning people about the lower level crate engines. We came to the conclusion that they must be using some sort of cheap castings in their components now. The block was just fine, a good 4 bolt block, but the components were garbage. It was unfortunate too that I was just beyond their 30k/3 year warranty..

If you would like to, PM me and I can hook you up with my shop in Elk Grove, not sure which part of Norther Cal you are in, but they can build you a great engine for close to the same price, and this way you have someone's shop to go back and talk to rather than being on hold on another 1-800 number lol.

Joe

[skoffice]

I always used race oil in it, SWEPCO. That stuff's like $9 a quart. I dunno that's just my experience with that engine, like I said, it could have just been a bad combination of things because the bearings looked like they they had 30k, but the crank, more like 150k lol. I just recommend building an engine that way you know what you have and somewhere to go to if you run into a problem.

[DRTYRAT30]

Thanks for the input. I have herd things both ways on these engines. Some say the GM 350/260hp and below are made with less quality parts and the 350/290 and bigger engines are of a better quality. I like GM so i might just go with a new crate engine from them.

Here is the 350 i pulled from the truck when i bought it. It had a bad oil leak, The P.O. did not have the bolts in the fuel pump install holes in the front and i think he ran it low on oil 1 too many times. It had a slight quiet knock in the rear of the engine when it would warm up, but it ran great and solid with no smoke.

I'm in the Lodi area and have herd good and bad about some of the machine shops also. I have herd Poorboy machine in Sac is a good place. I haven't ruled out rebuilding it yet. I like keeping my money with the local American working man.

http://poorboysperformanceengines.com/index.html

So at this point i'm still up in the air on which way to go.

Thanks for the advice

[DRTYRAT30]

[GVizzle]

I was in the same dilema.

I ended up remachining and cleaning up my original motor.

New paint
New carb
All new Accessory drive system
All new pumps and alternator
New Distributor.

[mooseknuckles]

I like your style...good work and awesome truck!

[DRTYRAT30]

I got the low hump out.

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by DRTYRAT30

I got the low hump out.

Jesse-

It looks to me that you just removed the "high hump". I could be mistaken (it's been a long day in the sun) but that looks to be the high hump for the 60-66. The front section is spot welded to the floor/firewall and then half of it is a bolt-in cover.

[Captainfab]

No it is a low hump, if you look a little closer at the rear of the cover you will see is lower than the front and then it steps back up. Some of the low hump trans covers were a bolt in and some were just a part of the floor and not removeable. With the removeable low hump trans cover, you shouldn't need to change the front section that is spot welded to the firewall. That should match up with the high hump cover.

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

Jesse-

It looks to me that you just removed the "high hump". I could be mistaken (it's been a long day in the sun) but that looks to be the high hump for the 60-66. The front section is spot welded to the floor/firewall and then half of it is a bolt-in cover.

[DRTYRAT30]

My truck was a low hump as you can see in this picture. Some of the 60-66 floors cam with a bolt in low hump and some had a solid formed floor.

Captnfab: In my application the spot welded front section of the low hump has to be changed, it is a different shape than the weld in high hump front section. see pics below.

My Low Hump that i took out




The comparison of the High hump section and my Low hump section on the right.



And two pics of a Bolt in Low hump (1st pic) and a Solid floor Low hump (2nd)

[PBFAB.COM]

Jesse-

No need to edit the post! We are all big boys here. I can handle the humor and not take offense! Just had not yet seen the bolt-in low hump... yet!

I should have known better... like I mentioned, I turned off my brain this weekend and sat in the sun for too long. Glad you didn't waste your time.

[DRTYRAT30]

Ahh you seen that Well i forget others read this, and i didn't want to come off like a jerk. You know i over analyze everything. Look how many questions i had till i finally ordered my kits. Its tuff to see the step down in those first pics of the bolt on section, especially when you spend to much time in the desert sun... Oh and those Gas Adjust Hood Hinges are sick man

[jasonhall]

Oh and those Gas Adjust Hood Hinges are sick man..

What is this? something new?

[DRTYRAT30]

Here's the link

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=420246

[Captainfab]

Hmmm I could have swore the high hump cover bolted in place of the removeable low hump. I can see that it will not.....been a long time since I've dealt with that.

Your build is looking excellent

[skoffice]

Oh you aren't far from Elk Grove at all. I was just down through Lodi to day actually. Went to Cherokee Truck Parts to get a bumper for my friend's Peterbuilt.

Ya that picture of the two pieces is deceiving haha I thought it was the high hump too!

Well if you ever have any questions on rebuilding what you have let me know I can hook you up with the place I use, Crackaway Engine Machine. They are up here in EG and they do AWESOME work.

Are you going to be going to Kingdon this weekend??

[72chevyfleet]

damn you are literally layin frame this is the sickest slammed truck ive seen so far

[creep]

Originally Posted by 72chevyfleet

damn you are literally layin frame this is the sickest slammed truck ive seen so far

Yeah man, aftermarket crossmembers are the best thing since sliced bread. Lotsa' realy sick trucks have been popping up lately.

I don't know how you people can completely dismantle and rebuild a truck and still keep your garage clean and organized

[64shortc10]

Did you decide which way you where going on the motor? New or rebuild the one you have? Did you get that high hump installed?
Tony from Norcal

[DRTYRAT30]

Yes, i went with a new GM crate 350 3yr/100k warranty at my local chevy dealer. And i will run break in oil with ZDDP and after for the flat tappet cam.



I just took the high hump to work today to clean it in the blast cabinet and then i will fill/weld in the shifter hole and install this weekend.




I found a new seat out of a 95' silverado for $45.00 on CL and it fits great, so i will take it to a local guy to have it recoverd like the red one in the 2nd pic below. All the dark grey will be burgundy viynl and the light grey will be the light red cloth.




I sealed up my rearend and put some fresh Lucas oil in also.



Thanks for the comments everyone...

[Seven9er]

Looks great man. Ive never seen anyone put a breather on a diff like that tho.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice job! That breather beats the heck out of an open hose like you see a lot of times.