"Midnight Rider" 1970 C10 SWB Fleetside

[omodified]

I got some updates from the paint shop. Nothing major, just progress. That floor in epoxy though...

[88Stanger]

DAMN!! I was just commenting on the exhaust you are looking at and now look at this beautiful motor! The detail is incredible. Great job!!! Please keep up with detail pics, as others have mentioned a great resource to others i am sure....

[omodified]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

DAMN!! I was just commenting on the exhaust you are looking at and now look at this beautiful motor! The detail is incredible. Great job!!! Please keep up with detail pics, as others have mentioned a great resource to others i am sure....

Thanks for the compliment Stanger. I hoped people would appreciate the amount of pics I post. It helps me to have the references and I think that helps others too. Historically, folks on this board love pics. So...I will keep em comin'

[omodified]

The next few steps I had to do multiple times, different ways. As I worked on one thing I figured out that something else needed to come before it and so on. So, after multiple test fits, this is what I came up with.

First up is installing the crankshaft position sensor. The factory engine setup utilizes several heat shields. This is important to protect sensors like this from extreme heat produced at the nearby exhaust. I won't be using any of the factory heat shields on my build, especially since I don't have any of it. I decided to go with stick on heat shielding instead. This version handles continuous temps up to 800°F. It was a bit tedious to splice so much for good coverage, but it will be worth the peace of mind. Installed the sensor and torqued to factory spec 18lb/ft.







Next up is the engine oil dip stick and tube. I originally bought a factory LS3 tube and dipstick, which is what Holley recommended for the oil pan that I'm using. However, when I tried to mock it up on this engine I ran into a few issues. The tube actually hit the starter, no matter what I tried. The other issue is the appearance. It sticks up way above the valve covers and has a huge yellow handle. So, I was in the market for something that worked better. What I came up with was a Lokar anchor-tight locking flexible engine dipstick. I went with the midnight series which gave it a nice black finish to match my theme. This had the look I was after and it gave me the clearance I needed for the starter. I had to sand the area in the engine block where the tube inserts. This gave me a nice area to apply some RTV, since this spot is prone to oil leaks. I applied the RTV around the base only and installed. I allowed it to dry for 24 hours before going to the next step.








Clearance!!! (Spoiler alert!)

[omodified]

Next is the starter. I decided to go with a mini starter and I found one in black from PowerMaster. This one is particularly nice because of the built-in adjustability. Even though it didn't 100% help with using the LS3 dipstick, it was plenty enough to give me the clearance I needed for the Lokar dipstick and the pigtail/wiring that will plug into the crankshaft sensor. I had to use the supplied shim to space the pinion so it wasnt 100% engaged with the flexplate. Once I torqued it down with new ARP bolts, I had the ideal spacing that PowerMaster recommends. Now that it was mounted correctly, I could loosen the torx bolts and rotate the starter for the clearance I need inboard. I marked the plate with index marks so it can be tightened back down correctly. Then, I had to remove the starter so I could be sure the plate remained flush to the starter mount when I torqued it. Then I install the starter back on to the engine and torqued to 37lb/ft.

[omodified]

More progress on the cab. Still needs some more massaging, but getting close. It's starting to look really nice.

[lunatic1968]

can't wait to get to the body phase, looking good

[omodified]

Originally Posted by lunatic1968

can't wait to get to the body phase, looking good

Thanks lunatic. Body phase is getting closer, so stay tuned.

[omodified]

I'm trying to eliminate engine parts that are just sitting here in boxes. Next, I decided to install the coolant temp sensor. Most LS applications has the sensor on the driver side front of the cylinder head. I wanted to put it on the passenger side rear so I can keep the wiring as clean as possible. Then, all I would have to do is plug the original hole on the driver side. This should have been simple...





Then I went to plug the other side and found this under the tape...




The 12X1.5 plug I bought just wobbles around in these threads. I even tried a 1/4npt and it just stops after two turns. I contemplated on how to handle this situation. I considered making new 1/4npt threads in the head and just plugging it. I really want the option of still using this port for the coolant temp sensor in case the passenger side doesn't work out. With that, my only option is to use a heli-coil. I'm a bit intimidated by this because I only get one shot to tap the threads straight. Just to further complicate things, I don't want to remove the head. So, I will be drilling and tapping with the block upside down so all of the shavings fall out. I think I will just put this to bed for now...

[omodified]

I received a special delivery today. The painter wants to let everything shrink up for the next 30 days. This will give me a chance to mock up the front end and gets the gaps correct. Then it can all go back next month for more work. Sitting on a donor frame right now...

[MDPotter]

That's a good idea on the coolant temp sensor location, it will be yet another touch that makes this engine build so clean and thought out. Let us know what you end up doing so we can steal your idea!

[omodified]

Along with the cab, I took custody of some other parts. Time to get busy with some new nickel plated hardware!!!




Gonna need some of this so the bolts don't freeze up over time.




The engine crossmember is tricky. It's a tight fit to the frame where it lives. So, you have to raise it more toward the front, where the frame is narrower and then walk it backwards into place.





...and just like that, more problems!!! So, as I mentioned a while back, this crossmember has been pancaked. Doing this, causes you to lose the ability to bolt it back to the side of the frame using the original holes. The eight holes that were used will no longer line up. In hind sight, I should have welded up the bottom holes and re-drilled so I could use the threaded nuts on the upper control arm plate. This would lock in the crossmember fore/aft. Now that I am this far along, I will have to depend on the bottom holes.





Now for the problem. I pulled out the new grade 8 bolts that I planned to replace the originals with. Every one of them are 7/16". Again, not a problem if I could've mounted to the side of the frame. The holes on the bottom of the frame rail and the crossmember are 1/2". If I use the 7/16" bolts, the crossmember could walk back and forth and possibly open the holes up even more. Ever see what loose lugnuts do to a wheel after several miles? So, I need to use 1/2" bolts for sure. Well, I didn't nickel plate any 1/2" bolts for this application. So, the front suspension will have to wait a few weeks. I'll just put some temporary bolts in for now so I can get this floor jack out of here.

[omodified]

After the last two issues, I need a good solid win. Let's install some crossmembers that actually fit!

Here's what we are working with...









So, this part could've been a lot harder if I didn't have the right tool to assist. With all of the crossmembers out, the frame actually shorten in width just a bit. It was just enough to make the holes misaligned. So, I put new 1/2" bolts back in the front crossmember. That ensured it was in the correct location. Then I used a hydraulic ram(and pillows) to spread the frame rails apart until my holes were lined up just right. I found several answers on how much torque to use on these bolts. With the nickel anti-seize, I decided on 40 lb/ft. Progress!!!

[omodified]

I received a PM earlier this week from a fellow board member here, "Pick". He read my build thread and had some suggestions and motivation for me to repair coolant temp sensor hole in my cylinder head. My biggest take away was his suggestion of using a tapping block when I tap my threads. I have heard about these but I have never used one. It sounded exactly like what I needed and would certainly help with my biggest concern. I researched what was available to buy, but I couldn't find anything that was near the size I needed (0.555"). So, I decided to make my own. I had some scrap round stock that was perfect. The lathe made quick work of it and I had exactly what I needed. This should work great, thanks Pick!!!





The tap I am using for this job came with the 12x1.5 HeliCoil kit I bought. It also came with the drill bit, installation tool and 5 new steel threads.




First thing I did was rotated the block until the plane I was working on was upside down but parallel to the floor. I needed to make sure that any metal shavings that are created have a chance to fall out of the head. Next, I put some grease on the supplied drill bit and started drilling out the hole. The grease should catch all of the metal shavings. I went very slow and only took out two old threads at a time. Each time I stopped, I cleaned the shavings out of the drill bit and replaced the grease. I also kept vacuuming the hole out. Here is the hole after all passes were complete.






Next, I put cutting oil on the threads of the supplied tap. I used the tapping block to make sure the new threads were tapped perfectly straight. I cut about two threads at a time and back out the tap. Again, making sure I clean up the shavings from the tap and vacuuming out the hole. I continued oiling the tap and cutting threads until it was complete.





Next, I used red Loctite and inserted the new threaded coil into the hole with the supplied tool. I was a bit tricky to get it started but once it did, it only took a little pressure to keep it threading to the end. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the installation tang off of the coil. Here is the finished product after waiting 24hrs for the Loctite to dry.




The last thing to do was finish it off with a nice plug. I found a nice stainless plug with copper crush washer at McMaster-Carr. I used high-temp thread sealer and torqued to 15 lb/ft. This thing is sitting 100% flush! What was I ever worried about???

[omodified]

Earlier in this thread, I previewed just a few of the parts that I've been able to find over the last several years. In post #13, I previewed a nice original hood I found locally on FB Marketplace. In post #20, I previewed some really nice NOS sheet metal I found in Tennessee and Virginia. The hardest part of my journey with this project so far has been searching for the coolest parts I can find. It takes a while to find some of this stuff, but I have learned to be patient. It's out there somewhere! The best part about my journey so far, was travelling to meet some of the coolest people to buy it all. We travelled quite a bit to shows and swap meets and peoples homes all around the eastern half of the US. Sometimes I came up empty handed, but it was always worth the time spent with my wife. I'm proud of what we were able to find and it's a comfort knowing exactly what this build consists of. Let's document some of those cool parts and mock-up the front end of the truck.


First up, was a score I found on Ebay. NOS cab cushions and mounting accessories.
Front cab mount kit x2 - 3957829
Rear upper cushion x2 - 3948408
Rear lower cushion x2 - 3948406
Front cab mount bolts x2 - 3816365 *need to nickel plate
Rear upper cushion washer x2 - 3889870 *need to nickel plate








The rear cab bolts I will be using are originals. I removed the rust from mine a few posts back, but I found a better pair locally. The remaining hardware was bought new and I already had it nickel plated, except for two of the sleeves. I will be plating those and the cab bolts soon.




The next thing to do was jack the cab up one side at a time and swap these loaner cushions for the new ones. Since we want to make sure everything lines up as close as possible during mock-up, it's important for the cab to be sitting at the correct height. The way to ensure this is to use new cushions and torque the cab to proper specs. GM says to start at 70 lb/ft front and 35 lb/ft rear. From there, if you need to make a slight adjustment later, you can increase torque to 55/90 lb/ft respectively.





Now that the cab is secure to the frame, we install the radiator support next. This NOS radiator support was one of my early finds. Dean's Truck Farm in Tennessee came through for me on this one. The mounting cushions I found on a secret underground NOS website that only true enthusiasts know about. I could tell you all about it, but I don't want to be the one to spill the beans.

Radiator support - 3980038
Upper rad support cushions - 3951798
Lower rad support cushions - 3953135







Just like the cab, the rad support has a recommended torque spec. GM says to start at 35 lb/ft and adjust up to 55 lb/ft. I used nickel plated aftermarket hardware to install it.




Next up were the fenders. I found an NOS right side fender at the same time as the radiator support. I was told for years that the left side was a lot harder to find because it wasn't commonly made or replaced. The right side was commonly replaced due to leaking battery acid eating away the front cup. So they were more readily available as replacements. A few years ago, forum member "billsbowtie" had a pair for sale, in boxes. I didn't need another right side but I couldn't pass on the opportunity to get he left one. I'm glad I did because I haven't seen another left one since. Thanks for the deal Billy and I hope your doing well.

RH fender - 3936668
LH fender - 3936667










I used a new front end hardware kit in black oxide from The Truck Shop (Orange) to install.





To be continued...

.

[MDPotter]

You sir have are good at finding things and have a lot of patience. I can only imagine how nicely a pair of NOS fenders and core support fit. Did all the holes line up and gaps look good?

[lunatic1968]

Congrats on finding all the new old stock parts, I could only dream of finding some NOS fenders. I'll be following along.

[omodified]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

You sir have are good at finding things and have a lot of patience. I can only imagine how nicely a pair of NOS fenders and core support fit. Did all the holes line up and gaps look good?

The fit was pretty good. Actually, I couldn't ask for anything better on the driver's side. The holes lined up perfect and so do the lines. The gap is good too!




The passenger side is going to need a little love. The holes lined up perfect, but as you can see from this picture, the body line is off slightly and the fender is sticking out slightly. A small modification will get this corrected. The gap is as good as the drivers side and it fits flush with the door at the top and bottom. I assume after GM produced so many RH fenders, the stamping die got worn out. The other RH fender I have, fit the exact same way. Overall, I'm pretty happy so far!

[cj847]

Question:

If that is not the frame you are going to use, aren't you somewhat wasting time with detailed alignment/fitment? Frames have some pretty wide tolerances.

[omodified]

Originally Posted by cj847

Question:

If that is not the frame you are going to use, aren't you somewhat wasting time with detailed alignment/fitment? Frames have some pretty wide tolerances.

I somewhat agree. Not making any fine adjustments here, but rather just making sure it wasn't miles off. That's why I just torqued to minimums. This exercise showed me at least that the RH fender needs adjusted now. We wanted to test fit this stuff to make sure no adjustments needed to be done to the cab before it gets painted. Once it does, we can handle smaller adjustments on my frame.

[omodified]

Next thing to test fit was the inner fenders. Barn find! Haha, actually, these are the one thing that I had stored outside, in my barn. Sorry for the dust. I actually picked these up on one of a couple trips to Alabama to see forum member MikeCofield. Mike always has the good stuff. He had a couple sets of these at the time, and this early bird got the worm.

RH inner fender - 3882650
LH inner fender - 6270855







They actually fit pretty nice. Much nicer than the set of aftermarket ones I bought years ago. I can't believe how flush they are to the fender. The driver side bolted right together.




The passenger side, due to the fitment issue with the fender, took some manipulating. The holes toward the front all lined up well. The holes near the back had to be pulled toward the fender slightly. I think once the fender is fixed, these last holes will line up much better.




Last thing to do was to check the gap behind inner fender where it attaches to the cab with the big ass fender washer. My gap was same on both sides. GM says it might take between two and four f-key shims to fill this gap. It looks like mine will take 3 per side.






Six of these f shims would cost me around $75. Plus, when things flex, they will probably make a squeaky noise. So, I made some spacers out of Delrin to replace them.






Just a few more things to mock up. Stay tuned...




.

[omodified]

Next up, I wanted to check the fit on the hood. It appears to be in very good shape, but I would feel better after a test fit. In order to do this, I need to install my hood hinges.

I chased NOS hood hinges for the last several years. Early on, I found a few singles and one pair. However, by my own doing, I missed out on them all. I haven't seen any over the last two years. So, the hood hinges I will be using are the same ones I removed from my truck last year. They were a bit worn out, so I sent them off to Hood Hinge Repair in Forest, VA for a rebuild. Willie, the owner, was great to deal with. He blasted them to bare metal, replaced the worn rivets and tightened to factory specs. Once they were rebuilt, he epoxy primered them and finished with zinc phosphate paint from Eastwood. This is his niche, so I knew he would do a good job. He didn't disappoint either.






Definitely show quality. Now let's see how tight they are. Time to put the hood on.





The hinges fit perfect and I have never felt hinges this tight. The back of my old hood used to pop up because of the hinges being worn, but not anymore!

It took a few hours of moving the fenders, radiator support and hood around but I finally got it all squared up. The gaps are really close to the same width as the door gaps. I think this is ready to go back for some paint.

[omodified]

More stuff going to the nickel plater tomorrow.

[omodified]

I finished up something small tonight that has been bugging me. When I took the engine crossmember back from the painter, I noticed the studs for the upper control arms were still bare metal from being blasted. He recommended a graphite spray by McKay. He showed me an example and I was sold. I masked everything off and covered the frame. I cleaned the surface really good. Then I put several even, light coats on each stud. Two hours later, I think it turned out great. We will see if it holds up.

[omodified]

Installed the lower control arms tonight. I already had the nickel hardware standing by. I had to sand the paint on the locator pin as it's a tight fit to the cross shaft. I put some pressure lube over the pin and installed the u-bolts. I used nickel anti-seize and torqued everything to spec.

LCA to crossmember - 45 lb/ft
bumpstop - 19 lb/ft
grease fitting zerk - 19 lb/in