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Old 07-28-2020, 08:21 PM   #1
88Stanger
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Update: 07/28/2020
I got the 4-Speed with Hydraulic clutch installed and then centered it in the frame and now it is installed into the frame. Looks great.
Now to work on getting a drive line built.
Also, just did a very large order with Classic Industries as they had 30% off last week, so it was time to order a bunch of larger items. So waiting on that stuff.
Also, got ahold of my powder coating buddy and asked to have him blast my cab, if i find it needs it.
Originally i had planned on wrapping the truck, but after looking into it and knowing that i have little to no experience in that, i have decided to go ahead and paint the flat red on. i have done flat before on my "69. I am not the best, but i can get it done. Maybe down the road i will get it wrapped if needed by professional. So, now i am looking at a single stage flat red on most of the outside with black highlights, grill, rims, SS strips ect.
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Old 07-28-2020, 10:25 PM   #2
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Blasting to white metal is the only way to start with body work IMO.
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:10 AM   #3
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

DAmn rotation ....
sorry about that. Try to figure out to fix this.
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:12 AM   #4
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Damnit, everytime i bring up the pic, it comes up normal and not in landscape like above. How do i fix this... lol
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:26 AM   #5
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Don't know the how to answer your question. But, I just saved it to my computer, opened it in 'Paint', rotated its orientation & saved it again....
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-03-2020, 11:56 AM   #6
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

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Don't know the how to answer your question. But, I just saved it to my computer, opened it in 'Paint', rotated its orientation & saved it again....
Well dangit. i will try again. lol
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:26 AM   #7
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Only way I found that you can rotate it, is edit the picture to be square or wider than it is tall...

The attached image function only allows for landscape view of the image...


Well, looks like I am wrong, as Scoti was able to post it...Maybe it only allows that when attaching a SINGLE picture...
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Old 08-03-2020, 11:57 AM   #8
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

So any idea on what or how to fix the door jam? I could just cut out that bad area, bend and weld in new section.
i was looking into this and found where some are just using Jeep Door Check stop brackets, anyone else on this?
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Old 08-03-2020, 12:04 PM   #9
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

test
So I tried what you suggested Scoti, and it shows it just fine in Paint, Paint 3D and other selection, but as soon as i link it here, it rotates it. So, i just did as previously suggested and cropped it and tada now it works. lol
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Old 08-03-2020, 12:07 PM   #10
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

test again..
So this is interesting... I did as Scoti said, saved a copy of the pic, then i had to rotate it and resave it, tada... Not sure what the heck, but anyways....
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Old 08-03-2020, 12:09 PM   #11
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Ok, anyways, back to the real issue, how to fix this area of the door pillar. I cannot find anywhere that sells this replacement panel or at least i cannot find or located one. So does anyone know about this? I have seen that others are using Jeep Check stop backets inplace of this. Bolts or welds on. That is great, but do i just cut out this nasty spots and weld in new metal or ??
Thanks
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Old 08-03-2020, 03:28 PM   #12
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

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Ok, anyways, back to the real issue, how to fix this area of the door pillar. I cannot find anywhere that sells this replacement panel or at least i cannot find or located one. So does anyone know about this? I have seen that others are using Jeep Check stop backets inplace of this. Bolts or welds on. That is great, but do i just cut out this nasty spots and weld in new metal or ??
Thanks
I haven't looked to see what's out there are far as patch panels so I can't comment

If there are no patch panels for that area, choices are sections from a donor cab or flat sheet-metal & bend the 90° areas as dimensionally needed.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-03-2020, 03:52 PM   #13
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

I have not seen any patch panels for that area yet. Easiest option would probably be getting a donor cab section, but you could also make one yourself. The Cherokee door check link swap uses the factory piece you are pointing at
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Old 08-03-2020, 10:10 PM   #14
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

I have a part of a cab I can cut that section from. Do you need both sides or just the passenger side?
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Old 08-04-2020, 08:38 AM   #15
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

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I have a part of a cab I can cut that section from. Do you need both sides or just the passenger side?
Captainfab, Thank you sir for the offer! Honestly, both sides are shown, so i need both. Do you have both? Costs?
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:40 PM   #16
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Sorry I was in a hurry and didn't pay enough attention. I'm thinking $25.00 per side plus shipping. Unless you want to make the trip up here and pick them up.

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Captainfab, Thank you sir for the offer! Honestly, both sides are shown, so i need both. Do you have both? Costs?
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Old 08-05-2020, 11:27 PM   #17
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

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Sorry I was in a hurry and didn't pay enough attention. I'm thinking $25.00 per side plus shipping. Unless you want to make the trip up here and pick them up.
Thats a good deal.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-07-2020, 10:34 AM   #18
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

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Sorry I was in a hurry and didn't pay enough attention. I'm thinking $25.00 per side plus shipping. Unless you want to make the trip up here and pick them up.
That is perfect. I will PM you on this.
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Old 08-04-2020, 06:39 AM   #19
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

I am a neanderthal compared to what you have achieved so far, therefore if I can cut in a donor panel to my door striker panel you can do the same with the hinge side!

Must admit that the great and the good from this very board provided me with the encouragement, you can see my efforts here.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=658621&page=6

Good luck, looking forward to seeing you throwing sparks and sticking bits together with the sparkly stick.

P.
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Old 08-19-2020, 01:18 PM   #20
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

sorry about the stupid upside down pic
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Old 08-25-2020, 09:09 AM   #21
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Yesterday I got the Cab Door sections from CaptainFab, and they are perfect for what I need. Could not say "Thank You" enough! This is just one of the awesome reasons this site is so cool, guys like CaptainFab, Scoti, Jrusher and others just to name a few who are more than willing to help others here out.
I owe alot of you!! Thanks again to you all!!
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Old 08-25-2020, 01:54 PM   #22
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Note: I am taking my Mig Welder down to .025 wire from the .035 wire so that i can lower the heat for welding the panels in.

Question: The floor joints, the ones filled in with seam sealer. Can you just weld these up rather than use seam sealer? I asking because one of my issues is the floor to foot well seam is where i have an issue and new panels need to be inserted here. I thought, hell, just take 1 solid piece and install it over the seam. Hope that makes sense.
Is that ok?
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Old 08-25-2020, 02:41 PM   #23
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

The seams make it easier to piece together (repairs) but a solid piece will work as well.

The thinner/smaller wire will work better on the thinner metal. Play around w/some scrap old stuff & do the same on replacement/re-pop stuff when possible. It seems I tend to blow through replacement panels easier on the same settings where older sheet-metal survives the process.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 08-25-2020, 05:45 PM   #24
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI View Post
The seams make it easier to piece together (repairs) but a solid piece will work as well.

The thinner/smaller wire will work better on the thinner metal. Play around w/some scrap old stuff & do the same on replacement/re-pop stuff when possible. It seems I tend to blow through replacement panels easier on the same settings where older sheet-metal survives the process.
That is great to hear. I assumed that the seams where just there for assembly ease, but thought I would ask.

When I did my "69 I used the .035 and though it worked ok, I had to many blow through's, so I read that .025 is better, takes longer for bigger items, but better overall. I will be playing a bit though to get the feel. I actually bought a Miller Tig to also use if needed on this but mainly for aluminium.
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Old 08-25-2020, 09:34 PM   #25
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Re: Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

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That is great to hear. I assumed that the seams where just there for assembly ease, but thought I would ask.

When I did my "69 I used the .035 and though it worked ok, I had to many blow through's, so I read that .025 is better, takes longer for bigger items, but better overall. I will be playing a bit though to get the feel. I actually bought a Miller Tig to also use if needed on this but mainly for aluminium.
Thick wire for heavy stuff.
Thin wire for thin stuff.

This lets you play around w/speed & heat settings for optimizing things for the work.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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