"BUILD: 1970 C10 LWB--->SWB “Jumping Cholla”

[KyleSeal]

Great looking build. I soon need to paint my roof, and am terrified as I am going to use an actual gun. Cant wait till its over. Good job on the seam sealer!

[Chaparralman1974]

Scott, the day you fire that up in the '70 let me know! I will bring some adult beverages so that we can enjoy that awesome first start sound!!!


Clay

[Shifty One]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

HA! I have too many other things to buy that are needed more than an upgrade at this point....something like a Boyd Welding gas tank

Aw, c'mon...admit it, some black crinkle M/T valve covers, or some old anodized Moroso's....

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by Shifty One

Aw, c'mon...admit it, some black crinkle M/T valve covers, or some old anodized Moroso's....

New valve covers might be needed to clear a brake booster.......

[loudchevy]

More progress this past weekend! We got the 700R4 temporarily bolted up to the back of the block and stuffed between the frame rails. The oil pan clears everything perfectly (I already knew it would as the BBC was pulled from a 1969 C10 when I bought it). The drivers side long tube slide in place with plenty of clearance. The Passenger side needed a little grinding on the upper and lower frame rails to get it to fit. I had to do the same grinding on the K5 as well. The drivetrain will get pulled again and the TC will get installed. When that is out, I'll clean up the grinding spots a little better and plug a frame hole that is really close to the trimming I had to do, then I put some touch up paint in those areas before putting the drivetrain in for the final time.

We threw the cab on the frame to make sure everything cleared on the firewall before final sanding and color. Plenty of clearance to the body, it's going to be close between the driver's valve cover and brake booster (which was the same issue I had on the K5, and it barely cleared it).

Life is going to get busy for the next few weeks so C10 work will slow. We already removed the cab from the frame. Next up will be some plumbing for brakes, fuel lines, gas tank, and then exhaust.

[Chaparralman1974]

I can't wait to hear that thing come to life Scott! What are you going to do for wiring? Are you going to go with a new Painless harness or something else?


Clay

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

What are you going to do for wiring? Are you going to go with a new Painless harness or something else?
Clay

Ya, most likely a painless harness kit. I didn't even bother saving the harness I pulled out of the truck, it was so cut up and spliced. Looking forward to starting with something brand new and clean.

[Chaparralman1974]

Originally Posted by loudchevy

Ya, most likely a painless harness kit. I didn't even bother saving the harness I pulled out of the truck, it was so cut up and spliced. Looking forward to starting with something brand new and clean.

Yeah, I am in the same boat. I am still trying to find out which harness to go with.


Clay

[loudchevy]

Not a very big update, but I have started blocking/sanding all the high build panels this week. So far I got through both fenders with 400grit and then hit them with 600grit. A picture doesn't do any justice for the work it takes to make a piece straight and smooth. Still have the doors, hood, cowl, and cab to get to.

I ordered a new SS brake line kit from https://www.inlinetube.com/products/sctb67d4 on Monday and it should be here next week. I still need a new master cylinder and booster, but I'll hold off on those until I get the painted cab back on the frame for the final time.

I have been flip flopping on the gas tank fill config (top or side) and think I'm going to go with the side inlet. I'm going to steal the gas tank filler door from the blazer and graft it into the side of the C10 SWB bed (that I still need to cut down from it being a LWB). I've seen a few people do this setup (https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...18&postcount=6 and I like it better than having to drop the tailgate every time you fill up. It will also eliminate the chance of dripping gas on the bed/tailgate.

Next week I'll probably stop by Speedway Motors and pick up a 3" exhaust tube builders kit and some mufflers to start laying that out soon.

[Chaparralman1974]

Hey Scott, so you started with 400 grit on the high build? Did it eat through it quickly? I was going to start with 320, but I am not thinking that may be a bit to aggressive.


Clay

[loudchevy]

Originally Posted by Chaparralman1974

Hey Scott, so you started with 400 grit on the high build? Did it eat through it quickly? I was going to start with 320, but I am not thinking that may be a bit to aggressive.

Clay

The 400 grit felt good to start with on the big areas with my block. I was worried 320 would take too much to start with. I did use some 320 grit Duro-Gold pads wrapped around a 1" round Duro block for the inner corners/radius parts of the fender. Those seemed like it took off just as much the PSA 400 grit paper. For the 600 grit, I used the same Duro-Gold pads with a block behind it to finish all the areas of the fenders.