Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step

[RatRod68]

Looks great Vic. Really love the attention to detail you put into everything.

[Low Elco]

Looks good! Keepin' it Rollin'!
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[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by bguild

Vic,
I know the other day we had a discussion about your long bed to shortbed conversion. I had mentioned to you about me buying some of the lower rear patch panels for behind the wheel. I said to you that I had bought some patch panels that were made for a swb bed.. I was mistaken.. i believe i used the long bed ones and cut them down.. However with that said I did run across these on ebay. I am not sure the fitment and if it is what you would need but they do say they are for a SWB truck bed

I probably need to email them and double check. It's listed as being for a shortbed fleetside, but the 34 x 12 measurement is for a long bed. Will let you know what I find out.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by RatRod68

Looks great Vic. Really love the attention to detail you put into everything.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Looks good! Keepin' it Rollin'!
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Thanks guys, I got all the spotwelds cut today. Still need to do some grinding where a PO brazed a section of the old roof panel to the drip rail. At that point I'll be able to test fit the new roof skin. Then, it gets flipped onto its backside so I can remove sections of the floor and firewall. However, that will have to wait for Tuesday as I'm headed back over to Topeka tomorrow for engine installation duty. Will post some pics later this week.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

However, that will have to wait for Tuesday as I'm headed back over to Topeka tomorrow for engine installation duty.

[Vic1947]

Well my love/hate relationship with reproduction panels continues. Prepped the roof perimeter this morning, tidied up a bit, then laid the new roof skin in place. It's close, but no cigar. Will have to spend a little time with the shrinker and stretcher to get a better fit, especially along the rear seam. It needs to fit really well along that area since I have no good way to clamp it down. More to come...

[Xeen]

Thats not the worst fitting panel I've ever seen but it is certainly dissapointing that the rear seam doesn't fit better.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Thats not the worst fitting panel I've ever seen but it is certainly dissapointing that the rear seam doesn't fit better.

A couple of pie slices and some hammer and dolly work and voila! C-clamps and vise grips will take care of the rest...

[Xeen]

Man that made a huge difference on fitment, top notch work as always Vic.

[Saclandman]

How do you get access to weld that back up? Can you access that from inside the cab? I just picked up a 67 rustbucket with a hole in the roof rear corner at the seam. Gotta figure out a fix.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Saclandman

How do you get access to weld that back up? Can you access that from inside the cab? I just picked up a 67 rustbucket with a hole in the roof rear corner at the seam. Gotta figure out a fix.

Well there's no access for a welder that's for sure. There's a tutorial here on the website for Southern KY Classics that describes how to install it with panel adhesive which is how I plan to do it. I may only use the adhesive on the rear seam and go ahead and spotweld the flange around the drip rail, just haven't decided yet. The nice thing about the adhesive is the flange should end up smoother.

[Vic1947]

With the outer roof skin modified and fitting pretty good, I started work on the inner roof header panel. It was rusted through in a number of places so it had to be replaced. I started by drilling the spotwelds along the windshield pinchweld and the front two on each side where the weatherstrip attaches. I held the repro panel up in the approximate location and marked the outer edges. I then moved in from the marks and cut out the remaining sheetmetal. A combination of cutting wheels and snips did the job. Once the old piece was out, I ground the exposed spotweld dots down and test fit the new panel. It comes a bit wide ...or at least mine did, so I marked it along the edge where it was contacting the A-pillar and trimmed it with snips. It took a number of test fits to sneak up on it and get it to drop in place.

[Vic1947]

At this point I was able to mark the cut lines for the edges of the panel. I did the final trimming and set the panel in place. I could see that the offset where it attaches to the weatherstrip flange was not correct on the driver side, so I used a flanging tool to relocate it to the proper place. I made the final cuts to the existing inner roof panel and clamped the repro panel in place. I had to trim a few more places to get a decent fit, but it looks like it will work. Luckily, as if right on cue, Brian G. showed up and helped hold the roof panel so I could drill a locating hole for a Cleco fastener. I left the old windshield in to make sure the opening stayed true. However, now that the fitment is done, I can remove it so the blaster can get at all the rusty scale. Once it is back from cleanup, I'll spotweld the inner panel to the old inner roof panel and the sides. Then I'll glue the outer roof skin in place. Lastly, I'll spotweld the front of the inner repro panel to the windshield pinchweld. That should help make sure the drip rail / windshield recess doesn't move. Floor is next...

[bguild]

It is looking good Vic!
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[gdavis]

I have a small window 67 cab that I will have to do almost the same thing to. But the inside of the cab is in perfect shape. I am going to fix this cab up in my spair time. And if Brian is there tell him to quit laughing. About my motor back and forth and back and forth. Anyway I am watching your build. It looks like you have had experence in doing this kind of stuff. I also have to remove the drip rail on the pass side of the cab. The whole drip rail is gone and the same side roof. Never done that before. Any hints.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by gdavis

If Brian is there tell him to quit laughing about me moving my motor back and forth and back and forth.

That's a different Brian at his house at the moment.

[Xeen]

It looks like you are making good progress Vic.
The roof is like swiss cheese on that thing sheesh, it's a good thing you got skills, you need them with this one.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by gdavis

And if Brian is there tell him to quit laughing.

Different Brian, but regardless, neither one is here so you're safe.

Originally Posted by gdavis

I also have to remove the drip rail on the pass side of the cab. The whole drip rail is gone and the same side roof. Never done that before. Any hints.

My first choice would be to locate a donor strip that had a decent drip rail where yours is missing or rotted and graft it onto your cab. Second choice would be to fabricate the drip rail as close as I could get it, then cover it with the stainless trim that's available from most suppliers. Since you'd be covering most of it anyway, it wouldn't need to be absolutely perfect.

I have an old '57 Ford Custom 300 I've been tinkering with for many years and I removed the drip rail completely on it. However, I'm not sure that look would work on these trucks. Maybe if I saw one that was nicely done...

[Low Elco]

Whoof, that's crusty! (Hence, the name!) You're doin' the Lord's work on that 'un, Vic. Can't wait to see, it's gonna be nice when you're done.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Whoof, that's crusty! (Hence, the name!)

And speaking of crusty ...here's the view from down under!

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

I have an old '57 Ford Custom 300 I've been tinkering with for many years and I removed the drip rail completely on it. However, I'm not sure that look would work on these trucks. Maybe if I saw one that was nicely done...

Here is a thread on it. Done right, they look good. I've seen some that look just down right horrible

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=389735

[Low Elco]

Daaaaang, that's a mess! One sees where the full floor would be a huge advantage. Yeller's was similar, not quite as bad up into the floors. What's the cowl look like? Especially the spot above the fan hole and the lap seam above the glovebox? How you intending to finish out after all this work? Still flat black? I'm surprised you're not shaving the cab back to roof seam. Hell, what's a little more work, right? (LOL)

[Xeen]

I only wish I had the metal working skills that Vic has.
The stuff most of us take one look at and think screw that it's too far gone, Vic just shrugs and fixes it as easily as tying his shoes haha

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Daaaaang, that's a mess! One sees where the full floor would be a huge advantage. Yeller's was similar, not quite as bad up into the floors. What's the cowl look like? Especially the spot above the fan hole and the lap seam above the glovebox? How you intending to finish out after all this work? Still flat black? I'm surprised you're not shaving the cab back to roof seam. Hell, what's a little more work, right? (LOL)

Oddly enough the cowl and other areas you mentioned are in very good condition. I plan to smooth the firewall and extend it over the fan hole to match the driver side profile. No wiring thru the f/w. You've just about got me off of flat black. I've been mulling Toxic Orange Pearl (aka Mango Tango) 2011 Dodge color. More copper than orange. Still leaning toward a flat topcoat, though.

[RatRod68]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Oddly enough the cowl and other areas you mentioned are in very good condition. I plan to smooth the firewall and extend it over the fan hole to match the driver side profile. No wiring thru the f/w. You've just about got me off of flat black. I've been mulling Toxic Orange Pearl (aka Mango Tango) 2011 Dodge color. More copper than orange. Still leaning toward a flat topcoat, though.

What about the color of the Transformer Camaro?