HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit

[hgs_notes]

Started working on the dash. I made a cardboard template and after 4 tries I think I have a gauge layout I like. I wanted the tach and speedometer behind the steering wheel. There are 4 other small gauges, only 1 will fit between the tach and speedometer. I tried putting all of them within that circle of the wheel but it just wasn't fitting where you could easily see all of them. So I set up 3 to the right in a way that looks good to me.

Going to try and find a 3 position toggle switch for the blinkers and put it to the left of the column, close to where a column mounted one would be. A guy makes a blinker setup based on an old VW part but over $300 is pretty pricey just to do what a $5 switch can do.

I will need to pick spots for the ignition switch, start button (I want one), headlight switch and dimmer, and horn. The wife thinks it should have tunes other than the exhaust notes, so I'm thinking just a Bluetooth setup with Amp driving the speakers. Minimal head unit. The spot in front of the shifter will make a good spot for a speaker. No idea yet where other speakers will go.

As far as getting the gauges working, I have the sending units for the engine connected, got confirmation from Dakota digital that the tremec VSS output is good enough for the speedometer, tach wire comes from the engine harness, just leaving the voltage gauge wires which are pretty straight fwd. I think I'll have those connected by next weekend.

Lots more looking up wheels and trying to figure out what will fit. I measured what it on the chassis now and measured the width of the body at the top of the wheel opening. Stock wheels are 15x7 with 4.75" bs. I have 2" more room to the inside on the rear. Really no room to the inside in front. Only looking at 8" wide in front, with the same bs, which should fit to the wheel opening really well. Lots of room in back because the body is based on the 427 cobra which has larger tires. Found an online calculator for backspacing/offset and also for comparison of wheels based on those values.

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/ti...ogle&utm_term=

Looks like I can fit an 11" wheel with the right bs. The hard part is finding a wheel style that has the right sizes for both the front and rear, most don't. I could run a 9" front and rear but that's not the look I want. So I have a couple options, one is great for fit but I kinda like the look of the other more. I've contacted the mfr about getting a rear wheel that they sell with the right offset but wrong bolt pattern (off by .7mm).

So many decisions to make.

[hgs_notes]

Started working with the wood. Need to buy another hole saw. I found a spot for the gauge controller and just used velcro to hold it. Got a little elbow for the radiator overflow. Now I just need to decide on what tank to use.

[mongocanfly]

Sweet test drive!!...did you have the heater on high??!!

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Sweet test drive!!...did you have the heater on high??!!

Heater?? What's that? It was really nice out. At least 35f, light breeze, sun was shining. I had long sleeves on. I even grilled pork tenderloin for supper. It was a beautiful day!

Spring in MN
https://youtube.com/shorts/5z8ZLjSHDok?feature=share

[Rickysnickers]

Very cool, the go cart stage

[hgs_notes]

Haven't done much since getting it started and moving under its own power. I broke the clutch in switch somehow so fixed that with a couple zip ties. I have an oil leak from the pass side valve cover, which is odd since it's an o ring gasket and everything is tight. I connected the fan wire from the control pack harness to the car harness wire for the fan but didn't try it out. I'll need to let it run long enough to get to 195f to kick the fan on but I don't have any gauges hooked up yet so that's what I'll be working on next I think.

I'm not going to use the metal dash from the kit, except as a pattern and for holding gauges temporarily. I'm trying to decide on a type of wood that I think will look unique and be formable to work in the car. I kinda like this hackberry sample. Can't really do a burl wood except as a veneer. I'll probably have to make it in at least 3 pieces. IDK, it's still just a jumble of ideas in my head that isn't settling on any one thing yet.

[richard2717]

What about using the 3M di noc wood vinyl on the aluminum kit dash? Would give you several different wood look choices.

[GOPAPA]

I just seen that the tinkering I posted back on the first page of this site is no longer shown as it was through Tiny Pics which is no longer in business ..
So, here it is again with the last photo of my old place when we last lived and since sold , bought the place in 1967 for $ 5800.00 and sold it for $ 250.000 ,,I tinkered all through this transforming on my own ,,just used some help

Moved to Idaho in 2012,

[67C10Step]

Any progress is that, progress. Good stuff and keep it coming.

[hgs_notes]

Drilled more holes in the dash so I can see the entire gauge layout. I'm good with it. But I'm finding that getting switches to fit may be a hurdle since most are made to fit in thinner materials and not a thick board. One of the reasons for doing the mockup.

I got the battery box installed, semi permanently. It is bolted in so could come back out but I doubt that will ever happen. I need a different cable end to fit through the hole into the box and I need to modify the lid slightly. It has a built-in battery hold down that is too tall. Easy fix.

The parking brake is installed and functional. I'm not impressed with how factory five has the cables. Just thinking about it now I could alter it so that it aligns the cable better from the handle and doesn't rub the frame but I probably won't.

[Rickysnickers]

I don't know what your plan is for your final dash. However, you could use the metall dash that came with the car and put a wood veneer over that. You'd still have a dash plate thin enough for your switch mounting and also have the wood appeal you want.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I don't know what your plan is for your final dash. However, you could use the metall dash that came with the car and put a wood veneer over that. You'd still have a dash plate thin enough for your switch mounting and also have the wood appeal you want.

Maybe, but I have other ideas to try before that option.

I stopped by a local fab shop and bought some metal for the trunk area. He just snipped what I needed from his assortment of drops from other jobs.

Then I used the borrowed brake to make another box to fit in the trunk. It's 9" deep, 12 x 6" length and width. Still need to weld it up and paint it.

I just kept thinking about when I learned how to use a brake for the first time in middle school shop class. We made a tool tray. I don't remember what happened to it but it turned out pretty decent. More complicated than I made here tonight. Thank you Mr Filippi (pronounced flippy!) I just remembered that I actually still have one of my middle school shop projects, an epoxy keychain in the shape of MN that hung from the mirror of my C10 since I started driving it in 1983. I think it's still hanging there. Now I gotta go in the garage and look......

Haha, yep, still there! He was a good teacher. Besides the name he was one I always remember. How can you forget a name like Flippy?! And my dad had him as a high school shop teacher!

Anyway, hoping to finish up the trunk area this weekend.

[hgs_notes]

Welded the trunk box up. Today's progress. Better than nothing.

[hgs_notes]

Had to modify the box a bit so it would fit in the hole. The tube that holds the trunk hinges is in the way, oh well. It's fixable. I should be able to finish the upper trunk today. Waiting for paint to dry, which takes longer even with heat in the garage. We have near blizzard conditions yet again today.

[hgs_notes]

Good progress today. Finished the storage box and installed it. Added a filler piece around it for a more finished look and seal it. Made the transition piece for the right side of the trunk between the upper and lower trunk floor. Finished routing the battery cable and it's ready to hook back up.

Tomorrow I will work on the lower trunk floor.

[gigamanx]

Great progress photos! I've contemplated a similar stereo since it's all bluetooth driven from your phone for the tunes. Takes up much less space. While I'm working on a totally different car, I can fully appreciate the issues with space and the need to make things accessible for future service. I have a power brake booster under the drivers side of the dash so all that wiring you have is sitting on the passenger side glove box for me. No heater either, although I strongly contemplated at least putting heated inserts in the seats for comfort

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Great progress photos! I've contemplated a similar stereo since it's all bluetooth driven from your phone for the tunes. Takes up much less space. While I'm working on a totally different car, I can fully appreciate the issues with space and the need to make things accessible for future service. I have a power brake booster under the drivers side of the dash so all that wiring you have is sitting on the passenger side glove box for me. No heater either, although I strongly contemplated at least putting heated inserts in the seats for comfort

I might do seat heaters, but that can be added later if I feel the need.

I've been poking at this off and on over the last week and not really getting much progress. I got the dash planed down to 1/2". I tried to do the kerf cuts on the end of the dash, I was bending it and it snapped. That's why it's a mock up. I didn't get my scrap planed down so I couldn't practice with that. I have the other end to try yet.

Had to email factory five to find out what light switch is supposed to work with this harness. It's not the mustang one though, so hope to hear from them tomorrow. I made a bracket to hold the ignition switch, it'll mount above my right knee under the dash. There were a couple brackets with the kit for things like this but they have a big square hole and no side bends for strength, so a little flimsy. Easy enough to make my own. Once I get the headlight switch I'll make another bracket to mount it over my left knee.

I think I'll get the seats bolted down this afternoon. Using an extra piece of 3/4" square tube under the front of the seat to get a little more angle.

I tried making a speaker grill but didn't care for the look. I think the round will look better, They are too close together so I trimmed the originals down on a side to fit. I'm not using these grills but it gives me a better visual. The round works better with the rest of the dash instruments.

I drilled a hole for the aux power port on the pass side of the speaker box. And a hole near the radio for the aux and usb ports. The only other switches for sure will be headlight dimmer and flashers. I decided not to use a start button for the engine and just use the key. Simpler.

Yesterday I tried working with some hinges for a 40 something chevy glovebox. They won't work, partly because of the thickness of the door and the radius of the hinge movement but also because they are side mount but the door has round ends and need to be mounted inset too far to work. So I'm looking at some other gooseneck type hinges. If anyone has an idea, please post or DM me. I don't want to see the hinge on the door bottom.

[hgs_notes]

More pics. I like the look of the dash so far. And hopefully my latest idea for the final version will work out. Something very different. Totally unique.

[hgs_notes]

Heard back from factory five on the headlight switch and also looked up what Ron Francis has because it's their harness. They use a GM style just like in our trucks. My parts storage is frozen shut but I ordered a new one anyway. Also ordered the hazard button and a switch for hi-low beams.

I did manage to get the seats bolted down. Not that it means much since they need to come back out to finish the interior and get the harnesses in. But hey, I drilled more holes and used more bolts so, PROGRESS!

[joesscamaro]

Really enjoying following along on your progress.

[hgs_notes]

Took a few days off the project. Waiting for parts, doing other things, etc. I sent my mockup dash to a friend for more work. I did trace it onto a piece of plywood beforehand. Took measurements for the centerpoints of each hole, etc.

Now that all the switches are here I started hooking them up. The headlight switch works great, just need to make the mount bracket. The dimmer switch has to be in the circuit to work and no problems there. The horn works, not sure where to mount it. I hooked up the blinker switch which is just a 3 position toggle. There's power to all 4 corners but the flasher isn't flashing. New parts that sat for about 6 years so maybe some mechanical agitation will help. Same thing for the hazard flasher. The switch I got for the hazards won't work though, I need a double normal open type so another switch is on the way.

I pulled some of the unused wires out of the dash harness. So what's left is courtesy lights, radio, power ports, etc.

[hgs_notes]

Cut out the new mockup dash and I'm going to mount everything to this and screw it down until the final version is done. Also made the headlight switch bracket and I think I have the brake light switch sorted out. The new hazard switch and small blade terminals will be here tomorrow. Also going to try out the new hinges I got for the glovebox door. The other day I tried making a grab bar for the passenger side but the tubing I chose is a bit too fat. Going to try again with a thinner tube.

The Dakota Digital gauges have a check engine light but I couldn't find any wires from the Ford control pack to indicate that. Called Ford performance today and asked about it. For some odd reason they didn't make that option on the first generation coyote control pack. And he couldn't find anything that would allow for adding it. So I'll just have to get the code reader hooked up occasionally and see if anything comes up. I'm going to check with some tuners and see if anyone knows how to make it work.

[hgs_notes]

Emailed Ron Francis about the flasher not flashing and my guess that it needs a load was accurate. The new hazard switch works good so that's done. So just a couple connections for the radio, make a couple short speaker wires and connect power to the aux ports.

I put the roll bar in. Looks funny without the body.

[hgs_notes]

We finally had a really nice weather day. It got to 60f, light breeze, sun was shining, probably the nicest day we have had since last October. I spent a lot of time out enjoying it and even got some things done on the cobra.

I cut the glovebox door opening and did it with a 30 degree angle. It helps hold the door in place, not falling through and the new hinges have a slight upward motion as it moves so the angle cut prevents it hitting the opening before it clears. Really happy with it. I'll have to make a nicer bracket to hold the hinges but it's basically just a piece of angle. My scrap pieces flex a bit and don't look great.

The final dash is going to be cut using a laser so the gap should be tighter. Then I finished the radio wiring, almost. My aux/USB adapter needs a different connector for the aux port. It works though and doesn't sound too bad with just a pair of mid-range speakers. Just a few wiring things to finish but nothing significant, just lighting and power ports. Once the final dash is built and going in I'll tie up my wires better and clear out what isn't needed.

I will have to move the headlight switch a bit because the tach hits it. A little further back and/or to the side should do it. And I may have to clearance the dash support tube for clearance on the tach. The cup that holds it wasn't part of my initial fitting and I don't want to lower the gauge if I can avoid it.

There's work to do in the footwells before the body goes on and a few other small tasks. I think next weekend I'm going to move the body into my 1 car garage to do some trimming and fitting before I drop it on the car.

[hgs_notes]

I might have the paint color picked out. I'm going to see if I can look at 1 more option yet but of the ones I've tried I have a favorite. What I have been looking for is a dark teal, something that looks dark blue until the light hits it and the greenish tones come through. Tropical Glitz ads have been popping up on my social feeds since before Christmas and they had a couple colors that looked right so I ordered a couple samples of Bikini Bottom and Cosmic Teal. I also tried to get a sample of the Aston Martin formula 1 team color but I think they mixed up the wrong code because it looked like seafoam green. Aston Martin had the color as a special edition on a production car and I even found one for sale that had the VIN listed so I could get the correct paint code. I'll post a pic of the car for reference.

Yesterday I painted the 3 colors onto a fender that I had painted grey primer then painted white across the top part. This is because paint with a lot of candy or pearl looks completely different over grey vs white. I'll post some pics of those results.