66 Pro Street Build (Domeringer)

[tinydb84]

Love this build.

[Gary V]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Love this build.

Thank you David!

Spent a good part of my day cutting the floor out of the truck. Had to laugh about the patches that people had used over the years to repair the floor and body. I cut through bondo, silicone, liquid nails.. the best repair was that someone had boxed the forward cab mounts with plexiglass and liquid nails... looked good covered with under coat.

Still need to trim the outriggers so the cab will drop into position. The lower rocker will be be 1/2" above the bottom of the frame rail. The outriggers will become the anchor points for the roll cage and serve as the new cab mounts. The ends of the outriggers will have plates that are welded to the A-Pillar and rear C-Pillar and floor pan.

Some pics

[Johnny_Lamebridge]

Originally Posted by Gary V

I cut through bondo, silicone, liquid nails... plexiglass and liquid nails...

I'm not sure I understand. Which one of those shouldn't be used?

You're doing an awesome job. Such a cool build!

[66-PMD-GMC]

I'm building my cage so it won't be seen above the bedsides like a 4x4.
Your build is coming along nicely.

[Gary V]

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC

I'm building my cage so it won't be seen above the bedsides like a 4x4.
Your build is coming along nicely.

Well I sure would like to go that way, but the truck will be going to the dragstrip occasionally and unfortunately without the bars I could go no faster than 10 sec.... building to go 8.50

Originally Posted by Johnny_Lamebridge

I'm not sure I understand. Which one of those shouldn't be used?

You're doing an awesome job. Such a cool build!

In my younger days I used whatever it took to keep going, so I'm generally amused by others efforts to repair that way. The plexi and liquid nails did have me scratching my head though... no wonder it felt squirrelly when I was driving it. One time I hit a bump and the hood popped open.

Thank you both! and Happy New Year!

Did get that body in place so... time to bend some pipe.

[66-PMD-GMC]

I've been working that out with the tech. people.
I'll find a way to satisfy the rules and not have it that way.
Nice to see your updates. They are motivating me..

[Gary V]

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC

I've been working that out with the tech. people.
I'll find a way to satisfy the rules and not have it that way.
Nice to see your updates. They are motivating me..

Thank you... now go to work!

Ok... Sunday update! Got the cab leveled and nailed down. Spent the day getting dimensions to do the main hoop layout. Back to my regular job tomorrow... hope to get cracking on that cage next Saturday.

Had to get the door up there to check the cage inner door clearance, so visited the scrap pile and made this deal up... works great! Here's some pics

[aggie91]

I like that idea. May have to copy that, but design for using my engine hoist....

[Gary V]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I like that idea. May have to copy that, but design for using my engine hoist....

Very Good!

Sunday update!

Been pretty busy with other things but did have some time to bend the main hoop for the cage. Got it in there nice and tight... hard part done.

[chad64chevy]

looking good! are you going to fill in behind were you cut out for the main hoop?

[Gary V]

Hi Chad,

Yes the back panel of the cab is pretty beat from some heavy stuff sliding forward sometime in it's life. If you look at the first pic in the post, the cab back panel will be clearanced for the drive shaft because of the body drop and motor position. Can't wait to start the body work at this point! Never thought I'd say that! LOL.

[Gary V]

More cage work to go... some pics

[66-PMD-GMC]

Beautiful

[azdude1964]

very interested in the cage , nice work as always.

[mud.man.rj]

I agree, nice work..

[Gary V]

Originally Posted by azdude1964

very interested in the cage , nice work as always.

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

I agree, nice work..

Originally Posted by 66-PMD-GMC

Beautiful

Thank you much!

Ok... another weekend comes to an end. kirkey seat arrived so spent the weekend getting the dash and seat mocked in place so I could get the position of the remaining inside cage tubes.

[Ronzo]

I love following this build, thanks for the updates.

[azdude1964]

sweet

[chad64chevy]

man I really like how the cage is coming out! looks almost hidden in the pillars

[tinydb84]

I just reread your thread for inspiration. I was trying to make my 4 link mounts like your chassis.


[/QUOTE]

Where do you get the ideas for the frame layout? Any books or videos you would recommend?

This is where I am at:


I am going to drop my crossmember/link mounts in soon and want to tie in everything in together and have it look decent and clean. Obviously it wont be like yours but any feedback would be great!

Thanks!

[Gary V]

Originally Posted by Ronzo

I love following this build, thanks for the updates.

Originally Posted by azdude1964

sweet

Thanks guys!

Originally Posted by chad64chevy

man I really like how the cage is coming out! looks almost hidden in the pillars

Thanks Chad! No matter how hard I try... always bang my dome and shins on roll cages... ouch! Try to keep them tight and out of the way if possible.

[Gary V]

Hey bud glad I could help out with the inspiration! I'll try to answer your questions...

Originally Posted by tinydb84

I just reread your thread for inspiration. I was trying to make my 4 link mounts like your chassis.

Read through your thread... your getting the hang of that tig eh. Great job!


Where do you get the ideas for the frame layout? Any books or videos you would recommend?


Having been around racing stuff for a long time it kind of comes easy for me to see what I like and don't like about other builds. The internet is loaded with them. I think the best book you can buy if your interested in doing fab work is the (link) Metal Fabricator's Handbook by Ron Fournier


I am going to drop my crossmember/link mounts in soon and want to tie in everything in together and have it look decent and clean. Obviously it wont be like yours but any feedback would be great!

Again your doing a great job! The only advice I can give you without seeing a sketch of what you plan to do is.

1. Tack weld the whole assembly and triple check the dimensions before final weld. Ask on your build forum for opinions once you tack stuff up... think a lot of people are not comfortable with critiquing someones work without being asked. You will get some good feedback that way.
   
   2. Once your satisfied with the tack welded setup... weld slowly an inch at a time. If you can't touch it with your bare hand... weld somewhere else! Keep the gaps between the two or more pieces your welding together very tight. If you do this the frame will come out as planned. If you don't you will end up with a twisted, pulled mess. You can always change things if you don't like by simply cutting the tacks and starting over.

I will make it a point to get get over to your build. If you'd rather... you can PM with questions if that's better for you.


Thanks!

[tinydb84]

Thanks for your time. I just bought the book. I have been on here, C10forum, Yellowbullet, and Protouring looking at other peoples builds.

When you say weld one inch at a time are you talking tig or mig? With mig wouldn't that create a cold start issue? I usually limit my mig runs to a 4-6 inches on something structural. I don't get to tig as much on my truck because I am doing it all in my driveway.

Also with your rails and crossmembers, what size material are you using? I did my notch in .188 but ended up with .120 for my crossmember. Any recommendations where to get mandrel bends?

[Gary V]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Thanks for your time. I just bought the book. I have been on here, C10forum, Yellowbullet, and Protouring looking at other peoples builds.

When you say weld one inch at a time are you talking tig or mig? With mig wouldn't that create a cold start issue? I usually limit my mig runs to a 4-6 inches on something structural. I don't get to tig as much on my truck because I am doing it all in my driveway.

Also with your rails and crossmembers, what size material are you using? I did my notch in .188 but ended up with .120 for my crossmember. Any recommendations where to get mandrel bends?

Very good! I think you will enjoy the book. Ron Fornier has been around for a long time and does awesome work. A cold start can usually be attributed to technique, amperage and wire feed speed. Try turning your machine up and starting a little ahead of your stop position and coming back... you can weld hotter if your not traveling so far. It can be difficult to weld heavy structural steel with the low cost tig machines on the market today. They are more suited for bodywork than doing structural. The new small inverter tig machines have a low duty cycle (The number of minutes you can weld in 10 minutes expressed as a percentage, eg. 20% duty cycle = 2 minutes in 10 where the machine is holding the current you originally set) We have a 300 amp Lincoln running .041 wire at work... there is no cold start.

Not a big fan of tig welding unless I have a big machine at my disposal. Having been an arc welder for many years... in my worn out flash burned eyes the penetration you get is far superior to tig. It does take some crazy skills to weld all positions... which is why tig is so popular.

All of the framework on the truck aside from the 4130 tube is 1/8 wall.

[Gary V]

Well busy weekend but did manage to get a few bars in place ...