Yet another GMC build

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

Do you have the ebay link to those LED panel?

Thanks

Here you go. I'm going to have to clearance the hole in the cab just a little where the nylon nuts come out on back but no biggie there. Also, I had to use the 1/16 spacers to keep the printed board and solder joints off the housing but it puts the LEDs real close to the lens. I don't think they should get hot enough to damage it, though.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250960724832...84.m1497.l2649

[youngrodder]

OKGMC4-

Do you mind showing more pics like the back of the light to show why you have to clearance the cab. Aslso some detail on the plastic fasterns. How did wire the light? Did you have wire it in any special way.

Nice work.
Marc

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

OKGMC4-

Do you mind showing more pics like the back of the light to show why you have to clearance the cab. Aslso some detail on the plastic fasterns. How did wire the light? Did you have wire it in any special way.

Nice work.
Marc

The nylon bolts are a number 4 machine screw. I got them with the nuts and spacers at Ace hardware. I needed to isolate the board from the metal light housing. I also had to raise the board up enough to clear the wires underneath. I got them extra long and once tight I cut the ends off and put a dab of gorilla glue on them to keep them tight. There are only two wires, red for 12v and black to ground. I probably could have used a smaller led panel but wanted it bright. Since the nuts stick out the back I had to open up four spots for them to sit in when the light is mounted to the cab.

[Roadkill58]

You should make sure you have sun glasses on when you open your door at night.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

The nylon bolts are a number 4 machine screw. I got them with the nuts and spacers at Ace hardware. I needed to isolate the board from the metal light housing. I also had to raise the board up enough to clear the wires underneath. I got them extra long and once tight I cut the ends off and put a dab of gorilla glue on them to keep them tight. There are only two wires, red for 12v and black to ground. I probably could have used a smaller led panel but wanted it bright. Since the nuts stick out the back I had to open up four spots for them to sit in when the light is mounted to the cab.

Thank you...I might try to do somehting simular for my 48.

Marc

[OKGMC4]

Latest project...

[OKGMC4]

I'm using Dynomax 17749 large body super turbo mufflers. Since they are under the cab I want them relatively quiet. The pipes are part of a Summit universal 2.5"" pipe kit. Got the stainless tips off ebay. Last pic is what it took to do one side. Should have the other side done in a couple days.

[Wheelie]

That color is freakin awesome!

[Kim57]

The exhaust looks good.
Kim

[Wheelie]

Side exit is the way to go. It really gives people a scare when you romp on it as you drive by. Especially people with the window down and or on the
Phone. : lol:
Posted via Mobile Device
Posted via Mobile Device

[_Ogre]

another truck build gone wild!

i like it. like the color, like the dash, like it all.

but... i'm waiting on the ram air grill scoop mentioned way back on page 2

[OKGMC4]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

another truck build gone wild!

i like it. like the color, like the dash, like it all.

but... i'm waiting on the ram air grill scoop mentioned way back on page 2

I like yours too. You have to still be itchy with all that awesome glass work!
I wanted to do the scoop but I only have like 1.5" clearance from the hood. Hard to imagine no clearance on one of these but that intake is tall, the engine sits high because of the C4 cross member, and that air box is kind of humongous.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by OKGMC4

... Hard to imagine no clearance on one of these ...

we have the woodward cruise here every year.
2 yrs ago i saw a 58 with a roots blower and dual quads on top of a 454, with a closed hood.
the coolest thing? california plates. he drove all the way out to cruise woodward

fiberglass isn't really that itchy unless your rough sanding a lot of glass.
usually that doesn't happen unless you really mess up (like i did on my door panels )

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice job on the exhaust!

[ricott]

You truck is looking great! I have a question. I have a 55 TF that I am starting on as soon as my son and I complete his 1966 GTO. I have an 96 corvette front end (Complete/cut out with the CVT frame rails) that I could use in the 55, but I want this truck to be a DD, and I am concerned about how low the front would sit. I think your static height was approximately 5 inches (frame rails to ground), but I think I want more than that. In your fabrication, did you see a problem with possibly raising the Static height of the rails by welding the frame higher up on the Corvette cross support?

Thanks for any insight you may have.

[OKGMC4]

I don't think it would be a problem. Actually it may make fitting the sway bar easier and require less notching of the frame to clear the rack. I adjusted mine by the distance from the top of the tire to the fender lip. I kept jacking the K member up until I got the tire/ fender lip gap I liked. That part differs from owner to owner but I hate that huge gap some cars get when they sit high, plus tire size can vary a bunch from one truck to another. Running stock C5 tires gives me a short tire to begin with. I had to build wooden forms to hold the member in place with adjustable legs so I could level everything before welding. I removed the spring so I could set the A arms at ride height, then raised it up where everything looked good, but there was some play either way. I still think the rear sits too high but I am working on it.

[ricott]

Thanks for the quick response. After the frame off on my Son's 66GTO (using an LS1/T56), this kind of fabrication doesn't scare me, I just don't want to spend a lot of time in trial and error. The man I purchased the truck from is a fellow boardmember and lives in Tahlequah, OK. I will be picking the truck up later his month (or early april). It appears you live about 50 miles from him. Would it be possible to stop and look at your truck late in the afternoon so I can get a visual of the frontend?

By the way, I got turned on to your build, and this forum, on the Corvette forum - your bother-in-law posted a link to your build under his corvette build. I'm very glad he did!

Ricky

[OKGMC4]

Yeah, I could do that. As long as you promise not to point or laugh. This is my first real "hot rod". I spent several years tinkering with Camaro and Firebird stuff. Everything bolts on and fits like a glove. With these older cars NOTHING fits without welding, cutting, hammering, and grinding. I learned to weld and paint for this one, and right now I am trying to build carpet, door panels, etc. I get to learn to sew too! I couldn't get better guidance though. My whole family is in to cars. My dad has a 96 Impala SS, 73 Barracuda, a 72 chevy truck, 92 Vette, and 09 Challenger RT. My father in law has a LS1 62 Vette and LT1 37 Ford. Basically I get to drool all over those cars and get real motivated to get mine done. I'm really looking forward to Pigeon Forge TN in september. My real goal is to have the truck done enough to drive it this year. You heard it, drive, not trailer.

[OKGMC4]

And just because he did it for me I'll return the favor and add a link to his car. That is... if anyone is interested in seeing a 1964 Stingay convertible with a 570hp LS7 and T56 6spd built to Viper spec. The awesome part is his teeny tiny tires. He should get a Firestone card for those monthly "my car needs new shoes" visits.

[Kim57]

That's pretty slick. I can't wait until I'm at that stage.
Kim

[Dads Burb]

Really nice job.

[Kim57]

The door panel looks real good.
Kim

[bensimmons_05]

I like how the door panels are coming along, I may steal this from your brain!!

[OKGMC4]

Got the sewing machine from my in laws to do my interior with. It's a Consew 206RB meant for industrial work. After running some seams through the sun visors I can see how a smaller machine couldn't handle this stuff! I've never sewn before but this thing is pretty easy to operate (after you spend 3 hours trying figure out how to thread it and set it up of course). Got my carpet bound on all exposed edges. Really should have practised more, about the time I got the techniqe down I was done.

[OKGMC4]

I made a small piece to illustrate how to do it (if anyone is interested). Sew the binding piece (here a 3 inch wide leather strip) on top of the carpet edge, upside down. Run two seams close together and it gives you a nicer edge when it's done. Use some 3M spray adhesive on the leather and the bottom of the carpet and wrap it carefully around. It will hold it while you stitch the final seam. Run the last seam from the top right up against the edge of the leather. (called sewing in the ditch). That ties the back of the binding in place.