'66 Longbed 327 w/AC project

[cortcomp]

Thank you guys for the kind words, it's nice to know others share your tastes and appreciation. Getting this wrapped up really has given me some motivation back, and now that nice weather is here i can open the door and yank the motor, and go nuts on getting that looking good, and the engine bay. I think that's the next step, and putting in the NP440 trans at the same time, then cutting the carpet/etc for that shifter if it doesn't line up where the 3 spd floor shifter was (i think it will).

[cortcomp]

Motor and tranny out! Leaks everywhere!

[cortcomp]

Took a LOT OF STUFF apart this weekend and realized i'll likely just have the motor rebuild, and with new pistons and rods, stockish cam, valve job, lifters, springs, etc...because it's too cheap to pass up and because rear main is leaking all over clutch pretty damn good. And if i disturb a crank and bearings, it's rebuild time. You're RIGHT THERE. Someone else has been in there before, so it might not even need a bore job. Gonna keep it factory, power pack heads and all, because i won't be revving her high, and want to keep a small cam for good vacuum and good MPG.

Looks like a standard dual diaphragm booster will bolt right on, and a standard master, but i'll go dual circuit. still staying drum/drum, but will do all new drums, shoes, hardware, etc, etc. With new booster and master, should stop on a dime.

On to some questions from you experienced guys...wtf is the third tube coming out of the AC area? I'll post this question with some of the other AC questions in the normal thread area.

Second question, what is the square cushion with busing thing i found later? It looks like a motor or bellhousing/frame mount, but i only found one and can't see where it'd go. Pics below.

Also, found out that 66 and back bells have car sized register hole for tranny, will have to have the bearing retainer on the NP440 turned down.

Depending on how long and how much the engine rebuild will take, i am going to get all the inner fender/core support stuff blasted and painted, then maybe paint the truck and engine drop in last, simple because i can do that while at a machine shop.

Also, very surprised at how easy inner fenders and core support came out without front clip or fenders AT ALL! Just a little trim in the back of the fenders none of you will ever see I will REALLY be able to blast and primer and paint these very nicely now! i will do the steering conversion and front coil springs while this is all in pieces, then inner fenders, then assemble new drier and condenser/battery tray in core support, then put core support in. Should be easier than how i took it apart!

[Bomp]

I may not be correct on the ac thing but I believe its for letting the condensation drain off the ac unit.

[cortcomp]

I was thinking that but there's a drain inside that goes through like a 6 inch hose through the floor? And it doesn't look like a hose has ever been on this fitting? and no rib like the other AC fittings with the tang that keeps the hose clamp from letting the hose come off?

[cortcomp]

Edit: Apparently a tube that a hose connects to and helps cool original blower motor.

[clemdaddy]

you're making a big pile of projects... its gonna be fun to watch you dig through them. keep up the great work.

[cortcomp]

Soaked everything in degreaser tonight, and fixed my steam pressure washer. Should be able to pull it out and see how much crud i can actually get off it.

[Bomp]

I looked through my 1966 Truck Manual and took some pics. I hope this info helps.






This was the only thing I could find about the "mystery tube".




Hope this helps.

[cortcomp]

Bomp, thanks for the links! No wonder i couldn't see where it went, it goes UNDER the mount, not between there and the motor!

On another thread, someone said that there is a tube that connects from there to the hole in the side of the heater motor, that cools the heater motor, it's just an air tube. I found the pics for it from a link someone posted to the AC stuff on here. Good to know what those are, the other matching frame cushion is likely still under there.

Dropped off all the front end interior sheetmetal to be blasted so i can paint it up easily (2 inner fenders, 4 pieces that are small ones that connect to core support, one piece that goes on inner fender around steering shaft and, and the core support itself.)

Hope to have a rebuilder picked and motor dropped off last week (i really just don't want to do this one myself.)


Got the rebuilt NP440 home, and he put the gears in for my rear/tire size:

[Flathead Smith]

I noticed at the very beginning of your thread you mentioned that you were going to replace your power steering slave system with quick ratio box.

The original slave systems are very simple to repair using a Corvette 63-82 repair kit. Because the truck is actually steered with the slave cylinder, the OEM steering boxes usually have very little wear even at close to fifty years of operation. I rebuilt mine several years ago in a couple of hours and I have been happy with it ever since. The only issue is the steering box is of a very slow ratio nature and it requires many turns lock to lock, but I can spin it with one finger very easily and I am running some fairly wide 16” tires (it’s a ¾ ton).

The other plus is the slave cylinder system is kind of a novelty, that’s why I have also retained the original Powerglide in my truck.

[cortcomp]

thank you for the tip! I'm partial to the later boxes (run them in my pontiac) and napa sells quick ratio reman ones for a little over $100. I was looking forward to the cleaner system and fast ratio, although i do have the slower ratio in my catalina and the wife loves it. I just wanted a cleaner engine bay, and to rebuild as little pieces and parts as possible to get it done before july. We'll see if it gets there!
Posted via Mobile Device

[cortcomp]

I see now no quick ratio steering box for trucks (in my cars you just get one from a firebird) but i'm ok with that, just like the newer boxes that never leak, simple hookup, no slave cyl in the bottom of the engine bay.

[cortcomp]

First round of pressure washing done, although i can't get the a-arms area clean AT ALL. Going to put new springs in, so might as well take them off, clean that area, clean them, put back together with new springs and new ball joints.

All the underhood sheetmetal came back from the blasting place sooner than expected, so at least there's that!

[cortcomp]

Went to summit and picked up some parts to redo the front end (Steering box for captainfab's conversion, pitman arm, tierod ends, etc, etc.) and tinkered with some small stuff.

The floor material is so much deeper now than it was before (with carpet, the jute padding, the silver insulation stuff, tar paper stuff, etc.) that the toggle switch threads couldn't come all the way through to get the nut and a washer on. I didn't want to move the switch (wanted it next to the fuel tank selector valve, the switch lets you use the stock fuel gauge to read out of all three fuel tanks.)

I emailed grainger where i got it and found the threads were 15/32-32 threads, which is rare to find fasteners for, and is apparently used for nothing else in the world useful. So i found a 15/32-32 tap on ebay, some 1/2" steel tube at lowe's, a 7/16 drill bit, and drilled and tapped the end of the tube, then JB welded a washer on there, then cut and filed it level with the top of the washer, then buffed it a little to make a T or flange or shank nut. Worked out well, it could reach down below the carpet and grab the threads, and pulled the switch up snug, while making a nice trim cover for the carpet there and i don't think it looks too bad at all!

[jayoldschool]

Maybe try some Easy Off, then pressure wash the A arms again.

[cortcomp]

So far i've been through 4 cans of oven cleaner,2 of brake clean, and simple green and dawn. The passenger A arm has come clean enough, but inside the lower is terrible and the driver side is terrible from 40 years of power steering fluid leaks + calif dust and dirt packing into this grease concrete.

I have to take it apart to take the springs out of the front and do steering work at the same time, might as well clean them up and paint them then. Don't think i'll ever get the firewall clean enough to paint it body colored though, will probably end up black.

[chevyrestoguy]

I don't want to guilt you into a bunch of work, but you've got to do the firewall body color. It looks a million times better than black, especially in the red color you have.

[cortcomp]

I've been wrestling with it myself. Part of me wants to make the truck light blue, part of me wants it red but darker than it is now, with no hint of orange, but not so dark it's maroon, and part of me is liking the idea of a light blue metallic, like you see on the 63ish vettes a lot, all with the two tone bright white of course.

With the light blue, the motor is a light blue greenish, so when you pop the hood it doesn't really stand out. Not so much with the other colors though.

Here's the light blue metallic i've been thinking about:

[cortcomp]

Today i got all the inner sheetmetal primed, and dissasembled both sides A arm assemblies, and all the steering stuff. All the steering stuff will be new from the steering shaft to the the outer tie rods, so all that stuff is in a pile. Can only fit one sides A-arms and backing/plate/brake assembly in the parts cleaner at once, So after i get captainfab's bracket, i'll start there and the steering box, etc, then do one sides A-arms after i floorjack the truck outside and clean again and paint the whole front of the frame. Then after that side is done, brakes and all, ready for the wheel, switch to the other.

[cortcomp]

steering crap

[cortcomp]

Soaked one side's control arms in the parts washer over night, and spent an hour and a half scrubbing, air chiseling, and steel wooling layers of crap off. I kid you not, without the air chisel, a lot wasn't coming off.

[cortcomp]

That was the driver's side, so i hope the worst is behind me.

[cortcomp]

Finished cleaning the other set of A arms and removed all 4 ball joints, and painted all the underhood sheet metal. Washed the frame up front again with the pressure washer, and got some por 15 and pushed the frame back in over some plastic so i can brush that. Got all the new brake lines in from inline tube, and all the new suspension and brake stuff in from summit and napa. Feels like progress!

[Bomp]

Theres the payoff right there.
Ah,,, nothing like clean black painted hanging metal.