Project Family Hauler

[fear_nothing]

I'll be the late comer to this thread!

Great work on the 4th door, how many times did you measure before you cut? Also noticed its a suicide door, any reason for that? Are you planning on doing that on the passenger side as well?

Again great work, i R impressed!

[pickup67man]

Originally Posted by fear_nothing

I'll be the late comer to this thread!

Great work on the 4th door, how many times did you measure before you cut? Also noticed its a suicide door, any reason for that? Are you planning on doing that on the passenger side as well?

Again great work, i R impressed!

Once the summer is cooling off and wet I will be working on it again. And yes the other rear door will be suicide also.

[pickup67man]

Well I've got good news and bad news. The good news is I got some sparks flying off the suburban again.


Now the bad news. Something is wrong with the angle of the hinges. I've been running it through my head for a while. When the doors are closed the tops line up perfectly. As I open both doors it is obvious the rear suicide door starts to drop. After I open it 4 inches it is 1/4" lower than the front door. When both are open a foot and a half it is a full inch lower than the front door. I have moved the pivot point on the upper hinge 3/4" forward and I figured it would affect how the door swings. No change. Since I haven't cut the other side yet I might just make this one swing normal. Not much different on the jamb, just need to make the B pillar hold hinges instead of a latch and brace it. Then latch on the C pillar. Door is still open to work on.

Any ideas on how to make the hinges swing right. They are from a F@$& so the suburban may just be rejecting the donor parts.
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[jbclassix]

Need pitchurs to give ower eskpert opineeun


Only things I can think is that the hinges are inverted, or the "C" pillar is "bowed out"

[pickup67man]

Ok you asked for it. Here are some pics

They line up when closed.


But when opened a little bit it becomes obvious.


And when opened more it gets worse.




When I look from the back the front door looks higher.


When I look from the front the back door is barely visible.


When I moved the top hinge forward I thought it would change the pivot point. It is the same. If you adjust a door 3/4" the front moves up and down alot. So when the door is open it would be like that adjustment, but when closed the gaps are still correct since it is spaced away from the jamb an equal amount.

[jbclassix]

I'm not 100 percent, but I don't think front door hinges are square with the front edge of the door... I remember I had to pie-cut a thin section to square the hinge mounts to make it work for the 4th door... so your rear door may track different than the front does. But I have no experience with Ford hinges, so take my advice for what it cost you! Are the pivots inside the pillar? I cant tell. All I can think is that they are just tracking in that path like something in... I have no clue, now I'm just rambling. All I can think is that the hinges are tweaked from straight up and down. Shut up, Jeremy, you are just trying to sound intelligent now.

[pickup67man]

I never looked at the ford before I cut it up. The doors may swing different or the body lines may allow the hinges to tilt in more at the top. I do know the body is thicker at the top of the door on the ford. I had to trim the hinge box to fit in the body lines of the suburban. If I move the top hinge in it will be past the weather strip. And if I move the lower hinge out it will be past the sheet metal. I've been staring at it for a while.
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[pickup67man]

And yes they pivot inside the pillar. I chose them because they make the door swing away from the body. Unlike Chevy hinges where the leading edge swings behind the fender.
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[jbclassix]

I looked back on page 3 and it looks like the door was doing that originally. I hope you can get it figured out!
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[pickup67man]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

I looked back on page 3 and it looks like the door was doing that originally. I hope you can get it figured out!
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If you look at all posts since then you will see there hasn't been much progress. I distracted myself with a garage but haven't figured out the door.
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[ThreeQtr]

Here is a discussion on suicide doors on a suburban.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=331633

In the pics Frizzle Fry's is definately down, though I only see one hinge in that particular picture. But even the custom red burb looks like it drops a little. More pics of it here. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=544965

Here is a crew cab project using a 68 suburban with a suicide doors starting on pg 9. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=495438
And pics of others for reference.

[pickup67man]

Well after talking and looking at more pics I have an idea. I opened the door and adjusted the top hinge until the doors were at the same level. 3/8" adjustment raised the door an inch on the latch side. Now the work. I got ahead of myself and welded a lot of the hinge box from the donor Ford. Now I have to cut those welds to move it. There is enough room on the body and door to tilt the angle of the hinges. I think the door will open correct then. I was just afraid this was the answer.
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[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by ThreeQtr

Here is a discussion on suicide doors on a suburban...
...And pics of others for reference.

What's up with the dually?! What's it look like with the doors closed?

That green one looks like the door drops too

Originally Posted by pickup67man

Well after talking and looking at more pics I have an idea. I opened the door and adjusted the top hinge until the doors were at the same level. 3/8" adjustment raised the door an inch on the latch side. Now the work. I got ahead of myself and welded a lot of the hinge box from the donor Ford. Now I have to cut those welds to move it. There is enough room on the body and door to tilt the angle of the hinges. I think the door will open correct then. I was just afraid this was the answer.
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As frustrating as it may be, I hope that solves your problem

[pickup67man]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

As frustrating as it may be, I hope that solves your problem

The only frustrating part is my welding too much too soon. Some welds may be hard to reach to cut out. But if I tilt the pivot angle of the hinge the door should open better. Maybe I'm just picky.
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[ThreeQtr]

Yes, the rear door of the green burb does look like it tilts down when open. Kind of like the rear barn doors on these open at an angle only the reverse direction (up).Keep up the good work and maybe you can make a kit for this.

More pics of the dually suburban here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...98#post5605998

[pickup67man]

Ok I bit the bullet and started to cut out all my welds. I had to cut the "hinge box" out of the suburban and tilt it. Then I had to cut the door apart to adjust that side an equal amount. I was able to move the top hinge in 1/2" and forward 3/8". This changes the pivot angle of the hinges.

Before Pic.


After Pic.


I think it looks better.

Here is what the "hinge box" looks like in the suburban.


This is the door side of the Ford hinges.


Lots of welds on the door. Looked a lot better before I cut the door apart.


The "hinge box" is actually part of the cab of the Ford. I have it welded to the floor below and next to the lower hinge, just above the lower hinge where the suburban floor meets the body and at the top right below the window. Then there is a 2" square tube that runs up to the header. No flex, which is good since the door hangs from it.


Looks better. I plan to have the doors open at shows so it will be easy to see if they are off.


Now to finish the jamb. Cut lots of holes for the hinges and now need to make it look good.

[Frizzle Fry]

It's the lateral relationship between the upper/lower that affects that swing. Imagine a single line between the two. If it angles out your swing will not be level.
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[pickup67man]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

It's the lateral relationship between the upper/lower that affects that swing. Imagine a single line between the two. If it angles out your swing will not be level.
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In my head I could picture the angles but it took a while to start cutting. I had to admit I got ahead of myself. Haven't done much on it for almost 2 years. Starting to move forward.
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[Frizzle Fry]

It's quite a coincidence that the donor for your rear door opening was the same color as mine...


-and-

[pickup67man]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

It's quite a coincidence that the donor for your rear door opening was the same color as mine...


-and-

That means I am on the right track. I noticed yours was a GMC according to the vin plate. Mine was a 1972 GMC cab I got for free. Going to use the A/C dash also. Now everyone will think you need a green GMC cab to make a 4th door.
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[Frizzle Fry]

good eye man! Mine was the same price. Just had to winch it out of the blackberries
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[pickup67man]

My second extra cab cost more. A special 10 pack of beer is all that it cost. It was a 12 pack but the guy offered me a couple while we loaded it and Bs'd. The green one the guy offered to help me unload it when I got home and I sold him an old engine analyzer so it was less the free.
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[pickup67man]

I did get something accomplished this weekend. Lots of grinding. With all the new and old welds I had lots of grinding to do. Not my favorite thing but it has to be done.


I know




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[68 TT]

Glad you got the hinge tilt problem figured out. Now get back to work

[Dieselwrencher]

Man oh man you are getting this unit done. I'm debating making a crew cab again, so keep up the work to motivate me. Haha