Halfbreed - GMC Z71 + IH Extd Cab

[sparkydog]

I found a nice picture of Sparky. He and I both can't wait for the day he is hanging his head out the side of Halfbreed while we cruise.

[SOON2BLAZE]

Nice progress, I love seeing old IH's. Keep up the good work!

[OLDIRON69]

subscribed....

[sparkydog]

Hi - back into project mode for the next 3 weeks! I have two sets of tasks I want to accomplish. If I get through both lists then I have a 3rd list ready which is "bonus" or gravy.

My first priority is to get the truck "Tow Worthy". This means I want to be able to tow it safely and reliably without something bad happening like the cab falling apart or the fuel tank dropping off. The reason I need to do this stuff now is I hope to be moving the base camp for this project from the rental house I am in now to my own place.

The main tasks on this list are: a) getting the fuel tank and it's braces back into the frame and b) more welding on the cab and bed so they can take any jolting from the road.

The 2nd priority is to get the truck "functional" - meaning that it can be started up and able to move under it's own power and also stop. The two main tasks on this list are: a) install main wire harness and b) route new fuel fill pipe so I can put gas back in the tank the "proper way". I expect this list to grow because I think I will have a bunch of trouble shooting issues crop up as I get it back to running. But you never know - maybe it will go smoothly for once.

[sparkydog]

Last night I started bolting the fuel tank cross member in for good. I also removed the forward support bracket to tweak the mods I made. (Want to make it a little stronger).

Then I cut up and fitted the start of my fill pipe re-route. I have to do this because I dropped the tank 2.5" lower in order to get the bed as low as possible. With the tank lower the fill mouth is partially blocked by the frame rail. So the rubber 90* bend lets me dodge the frame rail. Now I have to add a short metal 90* to the stock GMC fill pipe and then I will be able to mock up and make my cuts in the IH bed to clear the pipe.

[sparkydog]

This is a photo of the GM fill pipe neck. Does anyone know where the other end of this cut-off ground strap went to on a stock GM truck? This strap was cut by the guy who sold me the truck when he took the bed off.

Edit: Rereading this myself it sounds like a dumb question - I know the other end went to ground - I just want to know did it go to the bed sheet metal or down onto the frame?

[BlueJeep]

It grounds to the bed, to one of the cross braces I believe.

[sparkydog]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

It grounds to the bed, to one of the cross braces I believe.

Thanks very much!

[sparkydog]

I started patching in the missing sections of floor pan. Nothing like learning to weld on the fly. There is enough metal back in now that if I had to tow the truck I think the cab will hold together well.

[OLDIRON69]

If you have to make any crazy bends with the filler neck I have seen exhaust tubing used and it seems to work without issue. Just connect it to your rubber line with clamps.

[sparkydog]

Fri afternoon I did my BFH mods to the GMC muffler and then glued it back into the truck. (Not sure why I sprayed primer on - but it seemed like a good idea at the time.) One of the exhaust hangers was FUBAR - crooked and the rubber shock was horizontal not vertical so I fixed that while I was in the area.

Then I fabbed and installed my forward bed mounts. I was able to attach them right on to the GMC frame brackets.

And I also decided not to get into the fab of a nice looking fuel filler door so that I can stay focused on just those things I need to do to get the truck tow worthy. So instead I cut a small pilot opening and rigged up a McGuyver job that will do for now. It certainly won't win me any ribbons at a show.

[sparkydog]

Today I continued to work on wrapping up my 1st goal which was to make the truck tow-worthy. This morning I stitch welded the floor and sides of the bed to make them stronger than just tacks. Then I rattle canned some primer on it. (My plan has always to be to let a pro do the final body welding because I suck at it.)

Then I moved to the upper rear door frames which have been temp fastened all this time and stitch welded these areas too.

Edit: I should mention that I know my welds look like poo. I just kissed them off with the flap disk so there is still some material to smash with the hammer and dolly.

[sparkydog]

Next I finally tackled the roof sheet metal. I wish I could say that I finished but I am going to do it over tomorrow. I thought I had it nailed and tack welded the entire rear seam. But after cleaning up and staring at it over a Margarita I realize that I need to do a couple of things different.

So here are some shots of what I thought was the final tack up of the roof - but let's call it a practice run instead.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by sparkydog

My plan has always to be to let a pro do the final body welding because I suck at it.

Are you kidding? Do you have any idea how many people are out there that don't even have the balls to start this project, let alone get to where you are in as short a time frame!!!

You're doing exactly what you need to do, it's nothing more than thousands of tack welds. Go slow, skip around a lot. Heat is your biggest enemy. Keep the grinder moving around too. It sucks to do a good job welding, then ruin the panel with the grinder... I won't be doing that again!

What's wrong with the roof?

[sparkydog]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

What's wrong with the roof?

Me getting too excited and trimming too early before stopping and checking out the arc lines from every angle is what's wrong!

There's two things wrong. One more significant than the other. The first is the arc of the roof from the side. I had a plan on how I thought the roof would lay and how to dial in the arc. But then I just rushed ahead and didn't do what I was supposed to. So from the side the arc is too shallow.

I did stop and check at one point. I even took a picture. But I was all amped up and didn't slow down. It was sort of bugging me but I should have stopped. Now I'm no longer steel safe and that means I will have to add in some metal that needs curves to it in the back. I am glad I saved the rear roof section when I cut up the Travelall because I am going to need some of it now. I also smell bondo in my future.

The second issue is probably not a big deal. I should have listened to my coach (who has been doing rods for 20 years or so) and slit the roof all the way up the sides to near the front windshield. But instead I tried a fancy blend slit just forward of the B pillar and it isn't quite right. Sort of creates a love handle when you look at it from the right position. You can see it in the middle picture of post#138 - right about where the wing chair is in the background. There's an unwanted bulge to the line of the roof. It's even more noticeable from the ground.

Oh well what's another 1/2 day and more time with the cutoff disks. Third try is a charm!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

That thing is really comming along good keep up the good work..

[sparkydog]

I'm taking a 1/2 day off from the sound of the angle grinder and the MIG. Started hooking up the main wire harness in prep for trying to fire the GMC stuff back up. Thought we all might like to play a game of "Whazzat?" and "Do I Need It to Run?"

In the picture I have a number of little items that I either assume I don't need or that I don't know what they are for sure.

Item A is the brains for the safety air bags? And I don't think it needs to be installed yet.

Item B is the resistor for the interior lights to dim? If so - don't need it yet.
Edit: resistor for the wiper delay? resistor for the blower speed control? spy device from big auto?

Item C is on the "other" main harness (that runs windows, speakers, lights) and I don't know what the heck it is or if I need it?

Item D is a slightly broken connector that goes into the brake pedal switch. I need to re-attach 3 or 4 wires that pulled out during demo. I'm not sure whether the truck will fire up without a signal from the brake - anybody know?

Item E is part of the engine harness that comes in under the HVAC unit from up around the intake manifold on the passenger side. One connector is already hooked up but I can't find the other half of the brown one that is to the left of the yellow circle. It is a 4-pin flat row connector. Anybody remember what this does and where it goes?

Item F looks like there is a missing bolt up near the rear of the intake man. It holds that bracket on but it also looks like it may be one of the intake man bolts too. Maybe that explains why there is a coolant leak back there too?

Thanks for playing along!

[sparkydog]

This morning I switched to working on getting the vehicle to start and run again. First I installed the main wire harness and made the basic connections.

There were two sets of grounds I had to re-establish. One under the dash where some GM wires used to ground to a lower dash cross bar that is no longer there. I put a new ground on the steering column mounting bracket. The other location that I knew about was over by the battery where there was a main body ground into the right front fender. While probably not as good - I put one into the fender skirt until I actually have a front fender again.

[sparkydog]

I also had to fab up a temp bracket to mount the vapor canister. My donor vehicle was missing a couple of items and the mounting bracket was one of them. The way I go - this bracket will probably stay there forever. Got the canister hooked back up and ready to do it's thing.

Then I repaired two broken wires on a little harness that connects into the brake switch and reinstalled the switch and the harness.

[sparkydog]

Also blocked off the heater hoses because I don't want to put the HVAC unit in yet but do want to be able to move the truck under it's own power.

Each time I went on an errand I took my little 1 gal gas can and brought back some nourishment for the truck. I have about 3 gals or so now so I think I have enough fuel to try and light it up soon.

[sparkydog]

In the afternoon I "got back on the roof welding that threw me" and cut it back open. You can see that I wrote myself a sternly worded note on the top of the cab outlining specifically what order and when to do things so that I would not rush it this time.

Then I undid my "creative cut" near the B pillar by tacking it back together and proceeded to do what I should have done and continued my slit forward parallel to the drip rail all the way to the front.

And what do you know!? The roof tin started blending much better. The last photo shows approx how much gap I will have to fill as punishment for my haste on Friday.

[sparkydog]

Oh yeah... does anyone have a guide to the layout of the interior fuse block on a 97 GM 1500? I know I have the little cover door with the label on the inside but I doubt I can find it quick. I want to make sure I pull a few of the correct fuses before I try starting this thing.

My fuse block is just hanging in mid air right now..

[sparkydog]

Oh wait, I'm getting ahead of my story...

[Otsa580]

Your build thread is sweet. I hope this is the fuse chart you need. Its off my 97 Chevy 4x4. I have more pics if you need them. Its hard taking a picture of that chart.

[sparkydog]

Originally Posted by Otsa580

Your build thread is sweet. I hope this is the fuse chart you need. Its off my 97 Chevy 4x4. I have more pics if you need them. Its hard taking a picture of that chart.

Thanks that is what I needed.