My '57 Truck Build "Rosa"

[55Cameo]

Very nice build going on here. Like the progress you have so far and the frame swap is coming out really nice

[Russell Ashley]

We haven't seen an update in a while. Anything going on?

[Russell Ashley]

No posts in three months. What's happening? I hope the back problem is not what stopped the progress.

[57picupnewbie]

Hey guys! I apologize for the absence. Down in the back some and also involved with my boys and their activities. My dad is also getting older and I have been spending some time with him. Spent too much time away while floating on the ocean with "Uncle Sam". I don't know how much longer I will have him around. Anyway, I am slowly getting back to the ole girl. I have the firewall holes welded up. Finishing up grinding. I have started fitting driver's step and rocker patch panel. I had posted pics previously. I will post new pics when I can. Hey Russ, thanks for asking. I have missed you guys. I have started reading back trying to catch up with all of your builds. Bam and Ogre your builds are awesome. Great work!

[72BLUZ]

slowly but surely it is taking shape!!!!!!!!!!!

[57picupnewbie]

Okay guys, time for an update. I cleaned my shop up and organized all my tools AGAIN last week. (Something about having a 7 year old and tools falling off the boards into floor...lol). Today, I finished massaging the lower hinge pocket panel. Hopefully, I can tack it tomorrow. I also, was able to remove the old, inner hinge pocket panel. Any of you guys that have replace these, should know that they are a B***H to get out and to get the repops fitted. I was able to get the area cleaned up fairly nice. I will take pictures tomorrow. It really feels nice to get back in the shop.

[57picupnewbie]

I know it has been a long time since you guys have heard from me. After "honey-dos", a new roof on the house, and a death in the family I think I am finally back on track. It really feels good to get back at it. I have been practicing my welding along the way which I needed desperately anyway since I am a beginner anyway.
I left off with the driver step removed and I was fitting the lower hinge pocket. I then discovered that the "Inner Step Panel" (there is no name for this because it is not reproduced) needed to be replaced due to being rusted some. Therefore, I had to go out on a limb and make one. This was new territory for me. It went better than I thought. Picture with the Yellow Arrow is the panel I am referring to. Here are the pictures for you guys.

[57picupnewbie]

After I finished this panel, I re-measured and test fitted the lower hinge pocket again. Everything was good so I tack welded it. We are making progress now.

[57picupnewbie]

I then moved around and marked and removed the Outer Hinge Pillar. The Inner Hinge Pillar was completely rusted out and missing (Go Figure)! After, Cutting and tweaking the reproduction Inner panel, I was able to get it to fit properly and ready to weld in. I check my fit for the outer panel one last time. Something told me to check the measurements on the Door Hinge Panel again. I am glad I did. WOW! Even with all the bracing, the cab corner had dropped on me 1/2". I only notice this after placing the step in to see what it would look like. One measurement was fine. However, Top door bolt to step measurement was off by the 1/2". Picture shows correction with jack bringing it back up to normal position. Now, I have a gap to fill in. I am just glad, I caught ii before I welded it all up. Fill you all in more in a few days.

[Kim57]

Looking good. Keep the pics coming.
Kim

[57picupnewbie]

Thanks Kim! It really feels good to be back at it.

Well, I went back out to address the 1/2" gap I was left with due to the cab corner dropping on me. So (pic 1) is what I was left to deal with. I did not like the idea of just welding in a patch due to this being a high stress area with the door weight and the weight of a person stepping out. So, I decided to make a back plate and spot weld it in first. This would add extra strength between upper and lower parts. See (pic 2). I then added in the 1/2" small patch and welded it up. End result is (pic 3). I think it turned out fairly nice for a novice. After, I get the inner and outer hinge pillar panels in that puppy is not going anywhere. I put the step back in place to check the fit and it is still on track (pic 4). It will not get tacked until I get the rear cab corners done.

Well, enough for tonight. I am tired and wife has steaks on the grill. You guys have a good night.

[Kim57]

That came out real nice.
Kim

[Russell Ashley]

Good to see you back, I've been wondering where you've been. The patch looks good.

[dubie]

i'm looking forward to seeing the front sheet metal on and seeing how the wheels fit inside the fenders

[_Ogre]

i like how you shaved the firewall but kept the original ridges.
did you think of shaving the standing seam on the firewall?

this



vs this?

[57picupnewbie]

Kim - Thanks, I was proud of it.

Russ - It is good to be back! After completing the patch, I felt like I had actually accomplished something.

Dubie - I will be glad to be at the point of having the firewall complete. Filling the holes was quite a learning experience in welding for me. I blew thru a lot of metal as I was learning. As for the wheels, well those may be awhile.

Ogre - My old friend! I was planning on a look like yours originally. Shaving the standing seam (due to mine being bent) and keeping the original ridges. However, Since, I have found a look that I just fell in love with. It is a sheet of polished stainless steel on the firewall that mirrors the engine. It would be awesome for car shows I think. I attached the picture for you guys to see.

[57picupnewbie]

Today, I spent almost 3 hours tweaking and adjusting the inner pocket panel. As you all know, not all reproduction parts fit "as advertised". I had to snip, and cut, and grind. I bent and hammered but it sits in there flat and smooth now. I finished welding it in and all is good. The only problem I have is my OCD is kicking in and I am having problems getting to the welds to dress them up. Now, I know these welds are going to be concealed and no one will ever see them. However, I know they are there. They may not be the most professional welds out there but they are mine and they will be the best that I can do. More tomorrow!

[57picupnewbie]

My angle die grinder broke last night. Today we headed down to pick up a new one. At the same time I picked up an air belt sander to get into these tight spots and grind down the welds. Update more on that over the weekend. For now, I found this to share with you 1955-1959 guys...

What Year Is It???


1955 2nd Series - In mid year 1955, Chevrolet introduced this new body style truck. It was completely redesigned from previous years and very few parts will interchange with the older models. Grill design has 3 horizontal bars & 4 uprights. Single headlights in front fenders. Emblem on front of hood is longer at top than bottom. Small step between cab and rear fender. First year for the Cameo, a very rare and desirable fiberglass bed pickup. First year for the optional V-8 265 cubic inch engine. Serial #'s; H2 1/2ton, M2 1/2ton long bed, J2 3/4ton, L2 1ton, etc.

1956 - Very similar to 1955 truck. Fender emblems are two pieces and mounted above horizontal line on fender. Emblem on front of hood is longer on bottom than top. Front hood emblem has a cast in V if a V-8 truck. Serial #'s; 3A 1/2ton, 3B 1/2ton long bed, 3E 3/4ton, 3G 1ton, etc.

1957 - Similar to previous years but with the following changes. Fender emblems are now one piece mounted above horizontal line on fender. Front hood emblem is same as 1956 but paint scheme is reversed. Hood has two raised humps on top running front to back. Grill now has inner and outer oval ring separated by 8 "teeth", 4 on top and 4 on bottom. First year for the optional V-8 283 cubic inch engine. Serial numbering system is same as 1956.

1958 - Dual headlights in front fenders. Grill in now one piece design with park lights mounted in ends of grill. Last year for the Cameo pickup. First year for the optional fleet side bed. Fender emblems have series designations (31, 32, 36, 38 etc.) and Chevrolet in center of emblem with Apache on top rear of emblem. Front hood emblem is 31" long with vertical design in background behind bowtie. Serial numbering system is same as 1956.

1959 - Very similar to the 1958 trucks. Fender emblems are now larger design with Chevrolet and Apache in center of emblem with series designation (31, 32, 36, 38 etc.) at rear of emblem. Front hood emblem is 36" long with square pattern design in background behind bowtie. Serial numbering system is same as 1956.

[57picupnewbie]

Today I finished grinding the welds on the inner pocket panel. I was satisfied considering I had such a tight working area. Tomorrow, I am going to coat the welds with POR-15 to prevent any possibility of rust in the future.

I do have a question for you guys: Everyone knows this is an area that water and moisture can get into. There are a few areas that have a slight gap that I could not get to for a weld. Any ideas on what I could use to seal this up? Maybe a seam sealer? I want to seal this pocket up the best I can to hopefully prevent any water or moisture from getting in here.

[OrrieG]

In my mind there are two ways to go. Seal it up and hope no moisture gets inside to settle in the dust and crud that will accumulate OR provide a drain hole to allow it to get out. When I did my corner and cab patches I left the lowest points open to drain. If you use a sealer just get some 3M body seam sealer, that is what it is made for.

[Kim57]

Nice work on the outer pocket.
Kim

[57picupnewbie]

I have been having problems with my air compressor. We have been having thunder storms every evening. Being in 'South Ga." everyone know that brings along with it "High Humidity". Hence, I am getting a lot of water build up in my air system. I already have a water trap installed in-line. I can empty it before using system, then work for 2-3 hours and it will be full again.

So, I purchased water trap with a desiccant dryer (combo) and install it in addition to the first one. Same thing. First trap full and desiccant absorbed. In addition to water having to be drained from bottom of tank (about 1/2 cup).

[57picupnewbie]

I have now purchased an Automatic Drain Valve. It purges the tank every time the tank recycles or is turned on or off. It is installed on the bottom and a tube is run up and connected into the un-loader tube via a T-Compression fitting. This is between the pressure switch and the tank. The un=loader tube on the tank is a different diameter than the fitting that came with the kit so today I am looking for a reducing fitting.

[Katrina/10]

The only thing that worked for me to eliminate condensation was an inline refrigeration unit.

[57picupnewbie]

I have not posted for some time because I have been trying to fix the moisture problem with the compressor. Living in South GA is not helping the problem. The auto-release valve did not help. So, I did more research and found that I really did not design my system correctly to begin with. I only had about 5 ft of 3/4" PVC pipe from the compressor to the drop.
First thing I did was check what I had for leaks. Even though I had bolted the compressor down really good, the vibrations had caused to fittings to leak between the compressor and the first shut off valve. Also, the pressure switch had gone bad. After replacing the pressure switch and getting the compressor to cycle on and off correctly, I decided to completely re-pipe the whole system with 3/4" iron pipe.
I ordered a 2 ft flex hose to place between the compressor and the shut off valve. This would absorb any vibration. I then ran 20 ft. of iron pipe down the first wall, made a 90 degree turn and place a down blow valve. Then continued across my shop another 25 ft dropping about 4 inches the whole run. This would allow any water to run down. At this point I did another 90 degree and then a T fitting with a 16 " riser above the main line which goes over 6 " and back down for my air drop. The bottom of this will also have a blow out valve. Middle of the way of this branch is a 90 out with the water separator and the regulator and then the air line. I have found that if I drain the tank, blow the lines and drain the water separator before each day of work, I have no problems now. Everything works as advertised. Thank goodness. Hope all this makes sense and will save someone else the head ache. Here are the pics.